Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:58001

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=58001

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:58001

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=58001

This is a body lased from 3mm MDF that protects the Raspberry Pi camera board PCB and also allows to attach 37mm Lenses (e.g. Wide-Angle, Tele or Macro Lenses from Lensbaby). It also has a screw at the bottom to attach a tripod and an optional button at the top that could be attached to one of the rpi's GPIO ports.

Similar to the non-magnetized version, but these jaws don't rely on the vise jaw overhanging the vise body on the sides. Instead, they have recesses to glue, press, or epoxy in magnets to hold the soft jaw on the vise.
thingiverse.com/thing:87989

I am always developing my printer, trying to make it better. The newest adittion to the design is a light y-axis.
The extruder is removed from the moving y-axis and placed on the frame. The design is made for pneumatic fittings.
I use a bowden geared extruder to feed the hot end:
thingiverse.com/thing:60531

Only the hot end is now moving, making higher printing speeds possible.

The quick fit design for the j-head is derived from: thingiverse.com/thing:30951

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:59100

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=59100

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:65356

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=65356

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:65356

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=65356

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:46825

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=46825

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:45576

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=45576

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:65356

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=65356

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:65788

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=65788

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:80539

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=80539

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:91035

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=91035

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:52734

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=52734

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:45576

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=45576

As popular as the designs for X-carriages with 40mm fans between the rods are, they cause a loss of x-axis travel of at least 10mm per fan. With 20mm fans like I use, this means there'll be a total of a 40mm reduction. The goal for this design is to maximize the amount of X-axis travel while still having 2 fans.

This is an updated, completely redrawn version of my previous X-Carriage.

Designed for use with 16mm diameter bushings. If you have linear bearings with the same OD, you could use those too. Uses zipties to secure the bushings to the carriage, since I noticed that regular designs for bushing carriages crack around the bushings.


Changes;

- Added a slightly larger gap around the extruder so that it's easier to fit wires through.
- Parts that were thin and broke off easily made thicker and more rigid.
- Belt clamping area made longer, so that you have more room to make adjustments while keeping the belt straight.
- Increased gap for zipties slightly so that there's more contact between the zipties and the bushing.
- Redesigned fan holders, it should be easier to screw together.
- More pretty beveled edges.

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:53451

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=53451

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:40703

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=40703

This is a clamp to hold 8mm smooth rod in position on an OpenBeam frame.

I was impressed with Roland's Mr Door Stopper and intended to print one as soon as I got my printer. Of course that plan got derailed by everything else I saw on Thingiverse! Then I came across TheronRogers' ingenious idea of hanging the door stopper on the door handle when not in use... and so was born the Not so ugly Mr Door Stopper.

Customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:45576

Created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=45576

A driptip with a skull to fit 510 vaporizor hardware.

I saw something similar a few weeks ago, and when I stated getting into OpenSCAD, I thought that this would make an ideal project. The Skull was imported as an STL from [akaziuna's Skull with Pointed Teeth][1] into OpenSCAD, to which I added some elements I had already designed.

Currently beinging printed, (hopefully) photos to follow.


[1]http://:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31998 "Skull with Pointed Teeth"

I have yet to print this and actually have just started. But all of the stl's have been ran through netfabb to fix the holes. The stl's provided here all the listed printed parts from [thing:10526](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10526).

When I bought a new hot end from E3D-online I discovered that it wouldn't fit inside the fan duct on my Mendel90, so I redesigned it.
This duct is for a 60 mm fan and has a larger central hole and a slimmer profile, which allows it to sit underneath the nozzle cooling fan.
This version was created in Cubify Invent and is made available as a .FUN file as well as an STL file.

There are a few designs out there to keep the cooling fans from blowing air on your build platform (ABS Printing). Thus, decreasing warping when printing without a raft and adding a noticeable increase in print adhesion. There are also some designs for ABS fume extraction, but most require an additional fan and move a ton of air, which contradicts the above.

I decided to take the best ideas from a few and mesh them into one, using the existing Replicator fans.

7 months ago i saw JohnA post up his makerbot XL conversion and was indeed impressed. But it still lacked something that we needed at our store "more heigth". So I stretched the Makerbot XL drawings to make it into a MakerBot XLT. However there was still one big hurdle weight. Due to the current design of the replicator 1 being made out of wood it would oscilate with the printer head due to its light construction. So we had all the parts machined out of stainless to increase durability and weight.

So here we are about a week from completion on revision for the conversion and the remaining parts are about to be here. All that is left is the Z axis drive rod and z axis guide rods.

This conversion increases the z axis build height to 40" .

We will post up the files once we have completed the conversion.

This is derived from fa-weberad's derivation of lazzymonk's Vibration Isolator v2. I have made the slots large enough to fit a Falshforge Creator. I have also made the spring slots a little bigger to make it easier to assemble. I also made them more centred, which meant I had to raise the height so the bottom of the printer cleared the spring once in position.

And I just stumbled across maxy's Ultimaker version which looks a lot like my one for the Creator!! Bugger! I don't know if it would work for the Creator - I think you might need a left and right hand version of maxy's whereas mine will fit both left and right feet.

After I saw that people had downloaded my original I thought that some would like to have different sizes. This is my #1 Mom ring as a scad file. It is the scad file for Customizable Inscription Ring by cdmacy, modified so that the face text is always the same.

A printable flexible coaster. Based on Zomboe's chainmail, but with an additional layer to keep the link from rotating, and offsets added so that the horizontal bridges don't bind.

Extra bonus: there is a module in there called bitchain() that helps you set up multicolor chainmail prints.