http://www.thingiverse.com/derivatives Sat, 13 Mar 2010 10:02:05 +0100 FeedCreator 1.7.2-ppt (info@mypapit.net) en-us Copyright 2010, Thingiverse.com http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2003
This derivative of the Mendel frame vertex part has the option in the SCAD file of having a foot. The default file has one. I've oversized the holes slightly so that even people with wonky printers in development stand a chance of having a part they can use directly without having to ream the M8 holes out.

Using vertices with feet helps prevent the Z gears and drive hitting the table or objects that have rolled under the Mendel. ]]> vik Sat, 13 Mar 2010 05:24:30 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2003 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2000
Simple dust remover that fits over standard Makerbot Cupcake CNC Plastruder. Simply print and stick two pieces of Dish washing sponge cut to size with the soft part facing the filament and presto chang-o! Clean filament enters the extruder. You can also fill the sponge with your favorite oil compound for use with PLA. ]]> CidVilas Fri, 12 Mar 2010 02:34:44 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2000 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1979
Zaggo's Z-crank is great: thingiverse.com/thing:975

Zaggo's handle is a nice addition to this z-crank:
thingiverse.com/thing:1087

but i wanted something that turned super smoothly. So take the z-crank and just slap a 608 bearing on the handle. You can turn the crank completely freely without the handle slipping under your fingers.
]]> jmil Mon, 08 Mar 2010 08:43:26 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1979 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1971
This is actually a derivative of my own printable ball joint - but I thought it would be funnier to make it a derivative of Erik's which is a derivative of my own.

Using Erik's suggestions I was able to remove the interior surfaces, flip some triangles, and make the STL file printable! Thank you Erik!

Update 2010-03-07: I just printed it! Unfortunately, there were too many strands holding the ball in place and the arms were too thin. However, the ball part of the ball joint turned out beautifully. ]]> MakerBlock Sun, 07 Mar 2010 18:07:07 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1971 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1968
I saw Makerblock's topic about the ball joint, I thought openSCAD was suitable and adviced it, but thought I'd give it a try myself. This is a very quick hack, but it can be easily modified since it's just code.

In OpenSCAD, you can choose to see an animation of the ball joint in action. Do this by uncommeting "demo();" and commenting "print();". To print it, choose the latter, press F6 and export to STL. ]]> Erik Sun, 07 Mar 2010 11:50:55 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1968 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1963
This is adopted version of cliffords gear generator. Some format statements were changed, to run also on old versions of python, also the visual display part was removed.
Make the file executeable, and it should run on the slightly outdated ubuntu hardy, that is necessary to run the free cnc-controller software emc2.
geargen_hardy is just this version

however, gearsgcode.py is an advanced script, that will also create a ngc gcode file.
it is parameterized.
It has cutter compensation enabled. Therefore, you need to have a valid tooltable in emc2. Also, you need to make the parameter #5 a little bit larger than the tool radius, so the initial move works.
If the tool radius is too large for the dents, emc2 will complain.
Also, it is recommended that the clearance specified via -c is larger then the tool radius, so there is no friction in the groves.


]]> bkubicek Sat, 06 Mar 2010 07:25:47 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1963 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1960
This design was inspired both by 4volt's Hex toy and this Bonsai Calender [ notcot.org/post/26450 ]

I really liked the idea of a calender desk toy, and thought there was something really nice about the idea of building with time, so this construction toy calender came about.

What I really like is that at the end of 2010, there's no need to throw out this calender. Instead, a new calender for 2011 (and so forth) can be cut, and used with the previous year's to build bigger and better creations. ]]> asp55 Sat, 06 Mar 2010 01:22:42 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1960 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1954
Off topic but very important: Have you participated in the RepRapSurvey.org yet? If so, thanks a lot! If not, please do so!

On topic:
If you have a Z-axis that runs smoothly (e.g. by using bearings for the Z-threaded rods), there's really not much need for a heavy NEMA23 motor. For the Darwin's X and Z axis, a NEMA23 motor is only heavy and expensive. This is an alternative setup for your Z-axis to run it of the cheaper NEMA17 motors instead. For using a NEMA17 or your X axis, see my other thing:
thingiverse.com/thing:1525
This will also reduce the moving mass that the Y-motor has to move back-and-forth. You can then use a much lower current for the Y-motor or also replace it with a NEMA17.

For the whole Z-axis assembly, I've now got everything uploaded. I made parts to make a pulley, skate bearing brackets to fit onto the corner brackets. ]]> Erik Fri, 05 Mar 2010 14:07:00 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1954 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1947
Want to upgrade your print-speed?

This is an extruder that allows you to mount a beefy, high-torque, NEMA23 stepper motor. You can directly attach it to the Bowden cable. With the Bowden extruder (see my other designs under the Thingiverse tag: bowden), the plastic throughput is your print speed bottleneck. Or should I say, was your bottleneck: With a NEMA23 motor I've been able to extrude more than 15 mm^3 of molten ABS per second. That's about a (fully solid) mendel in 22 hours! So now XY-movements are the bottleneck again. For this, I think I need to further reduce the weight of the carriage (lighter rods, etc.).

Usage:
You can simply press the Bowden cable with an M6 nut into the T-slot (to attach the extruder drive mechanism to the extruder head via a Bowden cable).
Note: An M5 nut will also work (for smaller PTFE bowden cables), it will be able to slide slightly, but its movement is constrained by the filament. ]]> Erik Thu, 04 Mar 2010 16:59:19 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1947 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1941
This is a modification of the Lovable Google Android.
I uses openscad to modify the model, make it empty and create space for the elektronics in it.

The stl files with the 2 at the end, are the new models. The other stls are inputs for the openscad scripts.

If you turn the Head of this Android, it will change the color of its Body. As i didnt have a potentiometer, i used a photocell for it. ]]> Domonoky Wed, 03 Mar 2010 18:03:57 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1941 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1935
This parametric version of the Mendel Extruder has even more parametrisations and a captive nut & bolt to stop the stepper motor from sliding away from the pinch-wheel. It also has holes to allow two woodscrews to be driven through the sides of the PTFE instead of epoxying it in place. This allows repairs and upgrading of the extruder without the use of a chisel. ]]> vik Wed, 03 Mar 2010 04:37:46 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1935 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1930
I always lose my forceps, wire cutters, pliers, etc. Print this out to get holders for these items to attach to your MakerBot. Get them off your work bench, then you won't lose them!

I doubled Eberhard's Dino1 left Support:
thingiverse.com/thing:1912

]]> jmil Tue, 02 Mar 2010 20:11:13 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1930 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1899
This is only for people who want to print really fast ;)

Its use is shown in this video:
youtube.com/watch?v=cSBqBW1w2wE

This is the filament drive mechanism end of the Bowden extruder. The same coupling could be used on the other end (the extrusion, or hot end), or a special purpose (smaller) coupling could be designed to fit your specific extruder (one that also clamps the heater insulator).

The idea of turning a nut onto the PTFE tube comes from profounddevices. I really liked it so much that I obsoleted my own design for it ;)

I'm thinking of using the nut as part of an electrical switch to get feedback of when the pressure is fully released. This way you can put reversing functionality in the firmware without needing to configure it per material.

The concept of using a Bowden cable as guide was suggested and pioneered by Ed Sells. See his post here:
blog.reprap.org/2009/04/bowden-extruder-concept.html ]]> Erik Wed, 24 Feb 2010 16:52:04 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1899 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1880
This is a modification of the Y bar clamps, and comes with a shelf sticking out of it to stick optical or mechanical limit sensors on. It clamps onto 8mm or 5/16" rod for those who still work in old money.

The idea is that non-standard endstop mechanisms can be stuck to the shelf, allowing experimentation with microswitches etc.

There is also a part equivalent to the PCB spacer in the standard Mendel that is used to close the clamp after it is attached to the bar (doesn't show well in the STL image). ]]> vik Mon, 22 Feb 2010 06:08:08 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1880 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1241
This is a paxtruder version that I've had sitting around for a while. There are more recent versions, but I thought I'd post it anyway. The acetal should be 4mm thick.

Subversion svn.makerbot.com/users/charles/paxtruder/ ]]> charlespax Sun, 21 Feb 2010 23:02:00 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1241 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1855
These are heavier versions of the tweezers at thingiverse.com/thing:1091 .

I found the originals to be too thin to grab something.
I also added some flat tweezers to the mix. ]]> MarcusWolschon Wed, 17 Feb 2010 15:36:46 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1855 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1842
Printable Bottle OpenerAdded 30 degree chamfers and small fillets to hoeken's design ]]> Starno Mon, 15 Feb 2010 20:45:12 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1842 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1838
This is a solid "propelbody" for carstenj's windmill.

]]> PrintTo3D Mon, 15 Feb 2010 17:53:04 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1838 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1813
Beer opener v2.0New and Improved bottle opener. This opener is much more ergonomic, as well as supporting both US quarters and pennies.

penny-opener.stl - this is the STL for a penny based bottle opener. small, compact, cheap.
quarter-opener.stl - this is the STL for a quarter based bottle opener. bigger, beefier, a bit more expensive. ]]> hoeken Fri, 12 Feb 2010 23:42:25 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1813 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1799
This is a modified OpenSCAD source file that extrudes the original Parametric Vertex Bracket but does not subtract out the two M3 and one M8 holes in the middle of the object. This part prints faster and uses slightly less material. I created it to reduce the total print time on slower Repstraps. The time savings isn't as significant on faster 3D printers. ]]> ethan Thu, 11 Feb 2010 19:22:18 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1799 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1790 During this process I lost 16 of the spheres.
I also changed the API to use vectors to mimic the behavior of the internal primitives.

We've been meaning to update the include/library feature a bit in OpenSCAD, as well as ship some useful higher-level objects libraries with the binaries.
Keep making free libraries/parts and we might end up having a cool initial collection!

]]> kintel Tue, 09 Feb 2010 23:51:57 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1790 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1768
Zignig has done a ton of hard work here orienting the various Mendel parts so they fit well on a build platform and putting it all into a single Blender file. However, as a windows user I had trouble getting the STL's out of the blended model. I had to edit the STL export script a little, but managed to export them all.

Here are all 41 pieces for a Mendel, a derivative of Zignig's work ( thingiverse.com/thing:1134 ) ]]> MakerBlock Sun, 07 Feb 2010 19:44:49 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1768 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1709
An updated version of the Awesome Pick that is actually printable. I don't play guitar (only trumpet, I'm working on making a printable mouthpiece), but my brother will certainly appreciate the free picks. ]]> cyrozap Sat, 30 Jan 2010 01:05:23 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1709 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1684 dmatsumoto Thu, 28 Jan 2010 02:08:48 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1684 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672
I was looking for the perfect mount for my iPhone in the car and adapted aylr's version of the tripod so I could use it.
It's designed for the old, larger iPod cable with buttons to release the cable. ]]> captainuni Wed, 27 Jan 2010 08:28:13 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1645
This is the female part for thingiverse.com/thing:1416

Version 1:

I cleaned up some errors in the STL of the original
using NetFabb-Basic (Linux).
netfabb.com/news.php?nid=10

Improved version 2:

* The large bridge got some pads the filament can "land on" because the first few strands just fall down and make a mess inside the object with version 1.
* The smaller bridges got even shorter by rounding the walls inwards
* the clip is a few mm shorter, allowing the male part to settle easier even if not perfectly printed/cleaned. ]]> MarcusWolschon Sat, 23 Jan 2010 08:12:08 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1645 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1640
The bottom of the original was at z=-2.2mm so it tried to print lower than the build surface. That's fixed now and it prints beautifully. ]]> bpijls Fri, 22 Jan 2010 18:37:51 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1640 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1637
I was trying to dial in my Cupcake using da3v's single walled test piece, and for some reason my Cupcake started to print the design really strangely as I tweaked the settings. Eventually, even restoring the default settings would result in a print with weird blobs and the stage would orbit a lot, even though my first five prints with the same STL file were great.

Anyhow, it sounds like the problem is with my Skeinforge settings not liking the smaller wall sizes. Just to keep things consistent, I remade the part in Alibre Design to have 0.5mm walls all of the way around. The rounded corners have a constant 0.5mm thickness as well. ]]> dmatsumoto Fri, 22 Jan 2010 14:48:57 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1637 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1636
cleaned up the inside of the original object thingiverse.com/thing:609 using netfabb professional ]]> arhimed Thu, 21 Jan 2010 23:19:35 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1636 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635
21.01.2010 christmas present: laptop standthe variation is mostly in the engraving and some minor tweaks for the outline

also, the cable holes are different ]]> fin Thu, 21 Jan 2010 16:45:46 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1635