A small and handy safe box with a built in combination lock. The whole box prints preassembled (inspired by emmett) including hinges, the only thing to add are the combination lock dials and rods which easily slide into position.

Two hexadecimal dials ensure a completely safe solution with 256 different possible keys (that is about as safe as WEP). Choose your own favourite key!

Here is a handy handle for your razorblade to make it easier to scrape or pry stubborn prints off your build platform.

On the Prusa i3 there's not a lot of space between the M5 threaded rods and the M8 smooth rods. This coupler is only 2cm wide, and should fit into that space, if you decide to use a coupler. I prefer rubber hose couplings, but I could add a couple mm to the inner hole and make a cosmetic coupling to hide the rubber hose, right?

This Thing is a customized version of thingiverse.com/thing:44078 created with Customizer! thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=44078

In my opinion, MrJaws (and MrAllagator) represent the best thing about having makerbots in the world: That you can mave something functional with an artistic side. That blend of engineer and designer.

However, MrJaws was, to me, a little TOO much artistry, speaking in terms of volume. So I decided to make a version that was just as much shark, but heavier on the jaw.

Leave me a comment if you would like me to do the same with the alligator.

HenrySeg builds incredible 3d objects. I found this creation on youtube and he was kind enough to upload it to thingiverse.

However it was not designed to be printed at home. The files were also not to scale. So I scaled the pieces, broke them down into 3 files: box, box lid, and screw so that it could be printed on a home printer.

This was printed at .3 layer height, 100% fill, at 100m/s with full supports.

box top was printed without supports.

I wanted to print out one of those nifty gear rings for a friend, but my printer can't handle detail that fine, and PLA isn't strong enough for those tiny gear teeth anyway. So I redesigned it from scratch for a larger scale, a bracelet instead of a ring, for something my printer could print.

This piece is held together purely by friction and spring pins - no glue or screws required. It should also be printable on nearly any machine, even if you only have a 120mm bed. Mine was printed in PLA, but ABS should work too.

Parts of the design were based on the involute gear SCAD and Emmet's locking pin design. The parts were all drawin in Autocad - I have no openscad source files to share.

Update - reworked all the files to be easier to assemble and less likely to spring apart when you rotate the rings. Also, I have updated the autocad drawing files used to create the stl files.

so the leg (the spring really) of my glasses broke off and after 2 weeks of no replacement (no contact from the factory that made em, or so I'm told by my optician) I printed a replacement.
I know glasses have been printed before but I needed my lenses to fit in them so... yeah.

I did not add stand-offs for on the nose yet but I'm already wearing them so I figured I'd post it anyway
I intended to have printed hinges in the design but they have not come loose and would probably be a bit fragile if they do come loose so I'll have to change that a bit. for the next iteration.

I modelled the frame in solidworks with photo references, I modelled the holder for the glasses separately from the frame (as that was also a separate part in the original frame)

added in some support as the generated support is way more difficult to remove.

this frame is slightly less bulky than other frames I think as it was based on a metal frame not a plastic one.

I think we/someone should make something where you can put a vector-graphic of the glasses outline with perhaps a center point in and generate the glasses with some settings for width of face etc...

This fully 3D printable ukulele (save for bolts and strings) uses an acoustic transducer to carry the lower frequency sound created by the strings to a very thin membrane on the bottom of the body. The sound is focused and projected out of channels in the body to (hopefully) create a fuller tone with reasonable amplitude.

I am still working on the design of the head and tuners. Right now, to have a good gear ratio for the prototype, I made the gears almost comically large.

UPDATE!!
I'm refining the design of the geared tuner head but I wanted to test the tonality to see if I was getting somewhere so I quickly designed a test friction head and tuning knobs to try it out.

I have uploaded all the current parts for everyone to TEST this EXPERIMENTAL design! Have fun!

VIDEO: youtu.be/4xRkysNNRc4

A couple of notes: I am tweaking the body design. The bridge is a little wonky and the transducer pops right off! I have to think that one over a bit. The bottom membrane is only two layers thin. It is tricky to print and even trickier to remove from the platform. BE SUPER-CAREFUL TO NOT TEAR THE MEMBRANE OFF!

The sound the first prototype makes is bright as expected but it is pretty loud. A good sign!

NOTE: This friction head is for testing only, it will no longer hold a tune after a while without shims or other "friction-enhancers." The geared tuner is the solution to this, I'm just working to make it a better, more reliable print.

Stay tuned!

It's a trap! But at least now you won't get trapped in support material any longer.

Every Sideshow showman should have one, and now they can!

In this version I added horns and enlarged the eye sockets.

I detailed Bre's scan of a plaster deer head. I left it full poly, 330k, since it's still 1/3 of the count of the Black Dynamite bust (which I can only assume is the standard:). I also added a hole on the back for hanging it in your den.
Made for my 1.5yo daughter who is obsessed with deer and bats. She loves little animal models, I love printing things with the Replicator. It's a symbiotic relationship.

"I understand that all men are dizzy and powerless to refuse you, but consider me the incorruptible exception!"
-Lane Pryce

Get your MCM on with this 1:16 scale Arne Jacobsen Egg Chair!

This is Thing 06 in the Madiverse (Mad Men + Thingiverse) bit.ly/madiverse!

5 days left!

"You don't kiss boys. Boys kiss you."
-Betty Draper

Add a 1:16 scale Eames LCW chair to your Madiverse (Mad Men + Thingiverse)! bit.ly/madiverse

Only 3 days left until the Season 5 Mad Men premiere!

Tannery Math Surface i designed as a Light Shade.

For the Rostock 3D Printer.

Size:190x190x370mm
Thickness: ~3mm

At the base there is a 40mm cut-hole for a light fixture.


Enjoy,
3Dizingof.com

From the British Museum's Parthenon collection

Scanned by Cosmo Wenman. For more photos, descriptions of my reinventions, and info, go to cosmowenman.com

Head of a horse of Selene
Acropolis, Athens, 438-432 BC
From the east pediment of the Parthenon

Scanned from the original marble in the British Museum August 2012 by Cosmo Wenman, using AutoDesk 123D Catch.

Edited for printing using Blender and Netfabb Studio Basic.

Printed life size in PLA on a MakerBot Replicator.

Finshed in Epic Bronze with Alternate Reality Patinas. alternaterealitypatinas.com

Model published into the public domain October 2012.

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I made these pieces in an attempt to show that, with the right finishes and attention to detail, 3D printers can produce objects of art worthy of public and private display. Not just miniature figurines, or toys, or practical household objects, and not just prototypes. They can do more than evoke the desired object, they can be objects of desire.

But I chose these subjects in particular — elemental, archetypal museum pieces — to try to advance a different but complementary idea; that with 3D scanning and 3D printing, private collectors and museums have an unprecedented opportunity to recast themselves as living engines of cultural creation. They can digitize their three dimensional collections and project them outward into the public realm to be adapted, multiplied, and remixed.

They should do this because the best place to celebrate great art is in a vibrant, lively, and anarchic popular culture. The world's back catalog of art should be set free to run wild in our visual, and now tactile, landscape, and whether it turns up lit in pixels on our screens, rematerialized in our living rooms, or embedded in our architecture or clothing, it's all to the good.

And for forward-thinking, innovative institutions and collectors, and for everyone involved in this young industry, there's prestige, money, value, meaning, and beauty to be made in making it a reality.

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From the British Museum:

"One of the best loved sculptures from the Parthenon
The east pediment of the Parthenon shows the birth of the goddess Athena from the head of her father Zeus. The event was witnessed by various figures shown on either side and filling the triangular space of the gable end of the temple. In the very corners of this triangle, the time of day was set by the chariot of Helios, god of the sun, rising at dawn, and the chariot of Selene, the Moon goddess, sinking beneath the horizon. Selene's torso is in Athens, while the head of one of her team of horses is in the British Museum.

This is perhaps the most famous and best loved of all the sculptures of the Parthenon. It captures the very essence of the stress felt by a beast that has spent the night drawing the chariot of the Moon across the sky. As the unseen vehicle was shown sinking low in the west, the horse pins back its ears, the jaw gapes, the nostrils flare, the eyes bulge, veins stand out and the flesh seems spare and taut over the flat plate of the cheek bone." - bit.ly/gy7A4S

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I've seen a few references which state that plaster casts of this sculpture were extremely popular in the 19th century, but I haven't found any contemporaneous sources for that claim. But I can believe it - it is extremely expressive, and stirring in person, and I hope my reproduction captures and transmits at least some of that.

I find David Hockney's theories on the precocious use of lenses in Renaissance art very compelling. But living with this damned horse on my screen, and then in my house, for the last two months, it's hard to imagine how the original could have been designed two millenia ago without photography, let alone lenses. Its expression is so exacting, just an instant in time, I can't see how it could be modeled by eye from a live horse, or even a dead one. Maybe a contour gauge on a carcass with rigor mortis, but I don't see that either, not with this expressiveness and movement.

I imagine a Greek guy walking around 2,000 years ago with a camera obscura with some kind of light sensitive papyrus inside, trying to raise funds to get his light enscribing machine into mass production. Alas, there was no Kickstarter back then.

Or, maybe the artist and horse in bright sunlight, the artist covering his eyes. The horse's handler startles it into motion, and the artist opens his eyes for an instant, closes them again, then draws quickly with his eyes shut while the image fades in his retinas - the lens, film, and darkroom being his eyes... I dunno - either that or weeks of careful study, scores of sketches of impressions of a horse in motion, composited into this exacting model. But that doesn't sound like as much fun.

[Clarification: I don't *really* think ancient Greeks had cameras. I was just having some fun, and if my comments are taken as expressing anything other than admiration of the original artistry, then they're being misread. Or I miswrote them. Or something. Hi BoingBoing!]

(Yes, I'm aware that this is the kind of amateur analysis that is going to bust loose over the next couple years with more direct, popular access to these kinds of forms, and that it may cause many academics and curators to completely lose their minds. Just wait until the ancient aliens theorists get hold of this stuff. It's gonna be great!)

Based on all the information I could find, and on my own measurements, I've sized the model at 83cm long, measured along its longest length. I believe this is 1:1 with the museum's marble, but I'd have to put a measuring tape on the original to be certain, and I'm sure that would just get me yelled at...

The loose .stl file is of the entire horse head, "decimated" by 50% so its file size is more managable. One of the .zip files contains the full resolution model, which has over 1 million triangles, which may be overkill - but that's how I roll :) The other .zip file contains the hi res model broken into 29 printable blocks, many of which are pretty large prints.

I printed the pieces in PLA, hollow, 4 shells thick, and with .28mm layer heights, and it took many days of continuous printing. I can't even remember how many days it took, and I can barely remember the days it took to bronze and patina it - it's all a blur.

I'm working on a way to make these metalized patina finishes easily available, and easy to use. Look for Alternate Reality Patinas, AlternateRealityPatinas.com soon.

Cosmo Wenman
cosmowenman.com
twitter.com/cosmowenman

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This is a model of Chicago's Willis Tower, that I used to set a new tallest print record on 7/12/2010 @ 10:50PM. I took a Google sketchup model and heavily modified it, in order to print.

wiki.makerbot.com/hall-of-fame

The model is 155mm tall! printed out at about 154mm. My bot is hacked, but using mostly original parts that came with the kit and printed parts to achieve the new record.

Who: Brian J. Pierce
What: Willis Tower
When: July 12th, 2010
Height: 154mm
Build time: 1 hour, 10 minutes
Material: 19cc of ABS
Source file: thingiverse.com/thing:3533
MakerBot: #1034


In case you're wondering, the actual building height without the antennae, is 136mm. The Willis tower's antennae is not counted in it's over all height, in real life.

Owl statue... good for scaring away pigions and crows.

duh duh DUH dun!

Beethoven looks pretty grumpy for a really awesome bust you can print on your MakerBot, eh?

I designed this beautiful lamp shade based on a Coral wall pattern found in Nature.

Size: 180X180X195mm with a cut hole of 60mm at the bottom for a bulb fixture (Adjust it as needed)

Wall thickness (~3mm strong)

3D print it with White ABS or PLA.



Check out my Shop of design files: 3Dizingof.com

For me, what makes 3D printing so awesome is not just that you can make things yourself that you would have otherwise bought, but that you can make things that couldn't be made any other way. For this reason, I've been captivated by captured joints, where moving parts are printed together such that no assembly is required.

This lampshade consists of 14 interlocking pieces printed at once. When you pull up on the top, the blossom opens, allowing more light out. See the video here: youtu.be/blEgWG9V9sA

This lamp is my entry into ProtoParadigm's Winter Wonderland Contest, since when I'm struggling through a long, dark, Northwest winter, what I need is light and a reminder that the blossoms of spring will eventually arrive. I was inspired by mgxbymaterialise.com/limited-editions/mgxmodel/detail/detail/71, but I wanted to make a simpler, more organic model that wouldn't require a powder printer.

A 123d catch scan of a buddha was taken by my coworker Cleveland of his buddha statue. I took the resultant mesh and touched it up in Meshlab and Sculptris, final output created by Netfab.

Check out these awesome shoes! The straps are printed fully connected and clip into place into the side of the shoe. The shoe was printed in pieces, but if printed upright and assembled it does fit in the build volume of the MakerBot Replicator™2 Desktop 3D Printer. I'd advise against wearing these though. Though these are very sturdy, they were created just as a proof of concept and as display pieces.

These look great with the matching MakerBelt!
thingiverse.com/thing:31243

Created by Todd

Tannery Math Surface i designed as a Light Shade.

For the Rostock 3D Printer.

Size:190x190x370mm
Thickness: ~3mm

At the base there is a 40mm cut-hole for a light fixture.


Enjoy,
3Dizingof.com

Pretty. Seasonal. Pretty seasonal.

The round base is arguably prettier, but the tri-base is more mathematically true to the fractal. Though I skipped the second iteration for some reason.

12/9 - Thanks for all the feedback. :) Added a couple pictures of these prints after I dyed them light blue. You can dye nylon any color with RIT dyes which is just awesome.

1/26/13 - Currently available for sale at the 3DEA/Openhouse Gallery in NYC along with several of my other designs (and more awesome objects by others)! If you want one, don't have a printer, and are in New York, now's your chance. The store will be open through February 17. :D
3dea.openhouse.me/3dea/

Clip them together to make bigger objects

UPDATE: Version 0v1 is a bit taller and I worked on the symmetry and cleaned up the base. Enjoy!

I wanted to put a base on "George Hart's 3D Sculptures" hyperboloid ( thingiverse.com/image:40818 ), but I could not get it to render in OpenSCAD.

So I cooked up this one.

It looks a little like this one from MakeALot:

thingiverse.com/thing:6917

This is a mounting kit I made to attach an 80mm fan on the side of my Prusa printer for cooling.

The kit has three parts: A frame rod clip, a slotted arm, and a fan frame. It has multiple axis of tilt to adjust for wherever you place it. You will need a couple 10mm M3 screws and nuts to assemble it, plus the appropriate screws (M3 or 4-40) for your fan. There is a small integrated clip to secure the fan wires to the slotted frame to keep things tidy.

The frame clip piece is designed with M8 threaded rod in mind. You can clamp it securely to the bar using the provided holes in the side of the clip, although I have found it to be very secure without any extra help.

The parts have a printed volume of 15.56 cubic centimeters, and require a build volume of 81x81.5x12.7mm.

I liked redpeppr's case, I just removed the bump-out around the rca connector for simplicity and added the letter pi to the top.

May 2013 - Added bottom only and top only models.

ENG: Substitute of coing for supermarket cart

EUS: Supermerkatuko karroaren 50 zentimoko txanponaren ordezkoa

ESP: Sustituto de una moneda de 50c para el carrito de la compra

Frustrated with the bed leveling procedure on your new Replicator? Thought you got it level only to have your print fail the first layer or not bond on one side?

I believe the 4 screw leveling design and the difficulties with achieving a truly level build plate are the root of many user's build problems. They certainly were for me.

With this jig and a dial/digital indicator you can get your build table as level as is possible.

You can also use this to find out if your build plate is warped!

Video procedure at youtu.be/hgWeew6SmjQ