http://www.thingiverse.com/popular Sat, 13 Mar 2010 19:07:34 +0100 FeedCreator 1.7.2-ppt (info@mypapit.net) en-us Copyright 2010, Thingiverse.com http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:457
MakerBotThis is the design we used for the first batch of MakerBots. These are the lasercut design files you will need to make your own if you have access to a laser cutter. ]]> makerbot Mon, 20 Apr 2009 01:29:38 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:457 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1570
Notice: This is a project in development, and I intend to improve it over time. This draft will work, but it's hardly ideal. Caveat Emptor!

Update Jan 31st: I've uploaded Version 2, which is pretty much the same as 1.5 (which I've removed as a result) but comes with the "Hex Key Holder", which can be fitted with a standard screwdriver bit from a powertool to act as a crude "center". My experiments with using two such centers to drive the lathe weren't great, as one invariably ends up spinning and the piece stops. So it looks like the required parts at present are: Two Bearing-End-Body Sections, two Bearing-And-Tool-Fittings, A Boltplate and a Hex tool holder. You'll also want a Dremel Rest and a length of MDF/wood to bolt it all down to. And you'll need googles, and perhaps gloves, and a lot of sense.
For now, it is left to the user to figure out spacing of the body sections and how to align them. I'm working on improving that. :)

More Update: Really bad video of me demoing Microlathe: youtube.com/watch?v=6XXN6UkrnIw and a shot of the finished piece of dowel on my Twitpic: twitpic.com/y8jnl
Also, Microlathe was featured on Makezine! blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/01/tiny_printable_dremel-powered_lathe.html

Microlathe is a little dremel-powered woodturning/watchmaker's lathe that can be printed and bolted together with all those leftover M3 nuts and bolts that came with your Makerbot. In addition to the M3 nuts/bolts, you only require a 608 bearing (I got an extra one with my Makerbot) and an 8mm diameter spring to fit the bearing-end. You probably don't even need that spring.

So, if you have a Dremel handy, you can consider this "The Lathe That Came Free With The Makerbot"!

Microlathe is Parametric, and makes use of a "Global Parameters" script from which the others derive shared traits such as the radius of the bolt plates, etc.. you could try printing a larger one, but bear in mind the limited space you have to print the body portions, which are already quite large for a Makerbot.

MicroLathe makes use of shapes.scad, which was kindly released to the community under the GNU General Public License by Catarina Mota. Permission was explicitly granted for shapes.scad to be considered released under an Attribution, Sharealike license additionally in this case, to facilitate licensing crossover. Thanks a million Catarina!
Microlathe also makes use of teardrop.scad, which was provided kindly by Erik De Bruijn. Teardrop.scad is released under the GPL2 license, with the inheritance clause generously waivered in this case to permit release under a non-GNU license. I'm very grateful Erik, thanks!

I'd appreciate a small donation via Paypal if you find yourself using this to generate a profit (selling turned items, etc.), or if you just love it and want to show your appreciation. Otherwise, it's all yours to print for yourself or others! Just don't charge for it without asking me and informing the buyer that it's available freely here. ]]> cathalgarvey Wed, 13 Jan 2010 13:14:26 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1570 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:211
Planetary geared card!A calling card with working planetary gears. Astound your friends, frustrate your nemisii.

(Update: I've moved the gears slightly to the right, reducing the number of cut parts to assemble.) ]]> phooky Mon, 01 Dec 2008 11:43:03 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:211 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:591
Parametrized Lego BricksWhile talking to Zach I got inspired to model lego bricks in order to create custom bricks - the ones you always wanted but thought you never could get. Well now you can!

Of course it does not snap in place as nicely as original lego bricks but it should be good enough to create the custom lego piece you always wanted. ]]> wizard23 Mon, 11 May 2009 04:44:44 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:591 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1481
A-Mazing Box - OpenA python script to generate OpenSCAD models to generate two parts of a box that screw together and snap fit if you find your way through the maze :) ]]> wizard23 Wed, 23 Dec 2009 08:12:06 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1481 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1336
parametric gearsEven though there are lots of great gears on thingiverse, I couldn't resist the urge to model some too :)

The combinations of parameters are too many to upload an STL for each, so I just picked a few.

I also made a version for helical gears: thingiverse.com/thing:1339 ]]> catarina Mon, 23 Nov 2009 17:33:55 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1336 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1046
IMG_4416Better Living with MakerBot, Episode 2
You probably all know this situation:
You're supposed to ref a soccer game in less than 1/2 an hour and you cannot find your whistle. You're screwed!

But from now on you're out of trouble: Fire up your trusty MakerBot and print a new whistle in 26 minutes!

This object prints the pea right inside the whistle. Since the pea is connected to the rest of the object only at one tiny point, it's quite easy to break it loose after printing with a small screw driver or tweezers.

I probably pushing luck a little bit with bridging the top layer. So far I printed the whistle twice without problems.

As always, I added the object as .obj file (wavefront), which can be imported into AOI and Blender.

The gcode file is the one I used to print the whistle on the image. The gcode file contains an experimental raft with additional "blobs" on the second (interface) layer.
You might want to generate your own gcode file with skeinforge settings, tested with your MakerBot. Be sure to setup Skeinforge to create an (almost) watertight object, since the whistle won't whistle if it's full of holes...

[Update]
I added a second version of the whistle. "Whistle_v2" is an attempt to fine tune the object a little bit. My brother (he's a pipe organ builder) gave me some tips how to optimize the whistles mouth. Whistle v2 should start whistle with less airflow than v1 and thus be (somewhat) less loud. I also downsized the pea a little bit and changed the shape of the lanyard loop.

Whistle v1 is still available for reference and also since it's more "tested"...

Since you blow the whistle with your mouth, be aware of possible problems concerning "food safety" of printed plastic. See the blog post "For foodies out there" ( blog.thingiverse.com/2009/09/13/for-foodies-out-there/ ) for more information. ]]> Zaggo Wed, 23 Sep 2009 15:24:03 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1046 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1425
This is the next step in my attempt to make a Sarrus linkage based 3D printer. The idea is to have a cartesian mechanism without those long rods and bearings.

I built three of the Mark III and mounted them in a x-y arrangement as shown. They can move over a square about 105 mm wide, and someday may carry an extruder. They are driven by DC motors taken from inkjet printers. These motors are driven in a servo arrangement using quadrature optical encoders and optical strips removed from the same printers.

]]> fdavies Sat, 12 Dec 2009 16:18:36 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1425 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:907
I was inspired by zignig's Printable Desk Clamp thingiverse.com/thing:683 . I used hex nuts instead of square nuts because hex nuts are more common. All the parts are easily available at hardware stores and hobby shops. The total cost is about $4.50 for this clamp compared to $50 ones. It is used for holding circuit boards at comfortable angles, hobby modeling, and holding stuff. Enjoy.


The picture of all parts does not show two nuts that I had already hammered in but I did not want to take them out. Also it does not show 20mm brass tubing as I already hammered some of them in.
]]> vietor Sun, 16 Aug 2009 19:58:52 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:907 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:973
DragChainRenderThis is a drag chain for the MakerBot extruder cable (or any other cable/wires).

It keeps your extruder cable out of the Z-stage belt and let your MakerBot look professional (kind of...)

The objects need very detailed printing in order to work. You definitely want a good tuned MakerBot and Skeinforge settings to print this (don't say I didn't warn you!).

The ZIP file contains GCode files for all objects, including 6 or 8 chain links on one raft. It might be the best to skeinforge the gcode with your own, tuned settings. The included GCode files worked for me (resp. my MakerBot), but (again): these are some really hairy objects to print.
]]> Zaggo Sat, 05 Sep 2009 13:12:47 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:973 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1339
parametric helical gearsThis is the second half of my openscad.org gear sets.

I couldn't get the top and bottom parts of the double helical to union properly, so I ended up offsetting the bottom piece by 0.1mm :( It skeins and prints fine though.

This thing is part of a set:
- spur gears: thingiverse.com/thing:1336

UPDATE: I'm printing some gears and noticed a couple mistakes on the openSCAD script: the variable 'orientation' wasn't doing anything and the value 'extrudeInDiam' was in fact being used as radius. They're both fixed now and I uploaded a new version of the script. ]]> catarina Tue, 24 Nov 2009 17:52:31 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1339 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:958
IMG_4220After having some difficulties with the Plastruder MK3 which comes with the MakerBot, I decided to try to print a better (i.e. more reliable) extruder with and for my MakerBot.

The design was inspired by the "Thermoplast Extruder Version 2.0" from the RepRap project and by photos I saw of Nophead's "Fast extruder" .

(Update: There's now a 4th part to print: InsulatorRetainer.stl) ]]> Zaggo Sun, 30 Aug 2009 03:47:20 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:958 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:413
Generated Screwable Boxes - OpenedThis is parametrized Box model. It can be adaped to your wishes by changing the parameters like height, diameter, screwing angle, grip height, and curve parameters. In case you just want a screwable jewellery box I included 3 versions of the box as stl files.
]]> wizard23 Sat, 04 Apr 2009 18:46:30 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:413 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1983
Beco Blocks are 3d printable, snap together, ball and socket based building blocks.

Initially created as a prototype for another ball and socket based project, these blocks functioned so well I decided to make a number of variations to allow the creation of more complex objects.

Created at Robots and Dinosaurs, the Sydney, Australia hackerspace.
robotsanddinosaurs.org/ ]]> r3becca Mon, 08 Mar 2010 22:45:22 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1983 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1658
Modular Boxes.

Print boxes and drawers and combine them as you want. ]]> Domonoky Sun, 24 Jan 2010 15:43:56 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1658 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1009
A simple printable tool for getting the most out of your tubes of toothpaste, lotion, etc.

At a recent trade show, I noticed an astonishing amount of beauty and cosmetic products using the same toothpaste tube-like storing containers. By the end of it, the representatives were struggling to give out samples while the tubes were taking on that all-too-familiar form. ( re-nest.com/uimages/re-nest/toothpaste.jpg )

I couldn't help but think about how I would solve this problem with a (hypothetical) makerbot.

The slot width is made to fit the largest of flattened toothpaste tubes found amongst my friends.

The front slot is drafted just a touch to ease the initial insertion of the tube, and the large circular surface is intended to get that last extra bit once the squeezer reaches the back of the nozzle.

This design uses a total of 2.7 cubic inches of material. ]]> Starno Thu, 17 Sep 2009 01:52:38 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1009 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1272
Here is a squeeze buckle like you normally have on a backpack or hiking gear. I removed all of the supports for a strap on the fork part, since it just wasn't printing properly.

Also the fork fits into the sleeve in only one direction, due to the edits I had to make to make it printable.

Enjoy! ]]> jrombousky Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:35:22 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1272 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:975
IMG_4261This is part 3 of "Pimp my MakerBot" (see thingiverse.com/thing:973 and thingiverse.com/thing:958 for part 1 & 2 :)

I was tired of dragging on the Z belt multiple times to upper or lower the z stage of my MakerBot.

With this crank mounted on one of the 4 M6 threaded rods, I can now easily adjust the height of my MakerBot. ]]> Zaggo Sun, 06 Sep 2009 14:40:59 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:975 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:585
An eight-legged big spider robot.

The design goal was to create a legged robot that is large enough to walk regular stairs and strong enough to lift simple loads. It also had to be simple enough to use regular RC-srevos and could be cut with my minimal CNC machine.

youtube.com/watch?v=gNXuzhop-u8

youtube.com/watch?v=mSzAuPa47WA

The build process is documented here:

roboternetz.de/phpBB2/zeigebeitrag.php?t=39810&highlight=

]]> matthiasm Sat, 09 May 2009 13:44:10 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:585 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:191
LockboxThis is a 4-pin tumbler lock with a key and display case. Insert the key and turn clockwise to get a smiley face! ]]> geezyx Sun, 23 Nov 2008 21:54:44 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:191 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1454
A VW Bus that I printed for my company's annual pinewood derby fundraiser.

'The Bus' is sized to fit over the block of wood that comes in the pinewood derby kit. It also uses the wheels provided in the kit.

You can also print out you own wheels and use a block of scrap wood to complete 'The Bus'. ]]> Skimbal Fri, 18 Dec 2009 22:16:33 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1454 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1143
Claystruded.The Frostruder MK2 is a radically different approach to frosting extrusion. Instead of using a motorized plunger approach such as with the Frostruder MK1 and Fab@Home paste extruders, we've switched to air power. The result is a Frostruder with excellent characteristics: nearly instantaneous start/stop capability, vastly simplified design, a high pressure capacity, and an awesome steampunk aesthetic.

The way it works is pretty simple: The frostruder is basically a syringe connected to a pressure source, typically an air compressor. There are two solenoid valves to control the pressure: a 'Pressure' and a 'Relief' valve. When the Pressure valve is on, the syringe is connected to the main pressure source and that pressure forces out whatever paste material is in the syringe. When you wish to stop the extrusion, the Pressure valve is closed, and the Relief valve is opened. This part is critical because even after the Pressure valve is closed, the syringe is still pressurized. By opening the relief valve, the pressure is released and the Frostruder stops extruding almost immediately.

The frostruder is capable of extruding nearly anything with a paste-like consistency. There are many materials to possible, from food based items to awesome engineering resins. So far, we've had success extruding the following materials:

* Frosting
* Peanut butter (creamy)
* Jelly / Jam
* Nutella
* Clay
* Silicone
* Epoxy ]]> makerbot Mon, 02 Nov 2009 16:14:04 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1143 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1216
4h40 m
136mm ]]> januario Sun, 01 Nov 2009 17:11:16 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1216 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1124
MakerBot Printed Toy Train TrackI designed this section of Toy Train Track for MakerBot printing. It's compatible with the Thomas, Ikea and Brio brand wood toy train tracks.

For larger objects, getting raft and lower layers to stay stuck can be a challenge. Earlier simple copies had serious warpage issues, so I changed to a lattice structure. This gives the lower layers a chance to flex and cool independent upper geometry. There was still some separation of the raft from the build platform, but it was minor compared to previous iterations.

The main track portion of the fabject is 54mm long and 40mm wide. Total length is 72mm.

Note: The socket-side tends to be a bit tight with some track; you may need to widen the hole for a looser fit. ]]> clothbot Tue, 13 Oct 2009 00:48:06 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1124 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1274
Nope, not Dash Rendar, Ponda Baba, or even the young Lando Calrissian. It's your favorite smuggler Han Solo lovingly packed in carbonite for convenient shipping and storage. Enjoy Han Solo by yourself or with friends. Han makes a lovely conversation piece and will be certain to make you the center of every party.

I owe a special thank you to Sci-Fi 3d { scifi3d.com } and the awesome free STL editing package Netfabb { netfabb.com } ]]> gianteye Thu, 12 Nov 2009 07:59:44 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1274 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:981
Use this to guide your cables with.
]]> Martijn Mon, 07 Sep 2009 22:03:45 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:981 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:705
This is an omnidirectional wheel. If you know what this is, you know that they're a real pain to find, and expensive when found. They're expensive because it's a niche item, not because it's terribly complicated or hard to produce -- an excellent candidate for home replication.

Unlike commercial omniwheels, this comes with a Futaba-style servo mount already in place -- it's designed to be screwed directly to the servo. If this isn't your style, replace the object named "Servo Collar" in the Blender file with the mount of your choice.

v1.1 Update: Based on input from Simon Kirkby, I've enlarged the centers of the roller wheels and changed the axle mounts, which no longer need drilling. ]]> cbiffle Sat, 13 Jun 2009 08:12:32 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:705 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1362
This is an OpenSCAD parametric model for making THE timing pulley that you need. It's designed to generate a model printable without support material (observing the overhang rule of thumb).

You can configure it to fit the belt that you're using. The pulley can be fixed to a threaded shaft with a nut. On one side the nut (the setting for an M8 hex nut is configured for you already) will sink into the pulley. If you tighten a nut on the other side as well it will be very well fixed.

Another option is to use a set screw. You just specify the diameter of the screw and it will create a hub with a (capped) teardrop hole.

The STL file included works well with the Synchroflex(R) timing belt,1500Lx10Wmm from RS (order code 474-5892), spliced in half (to 5 mm width). This way you'll have a very good belt driven system for about 4 euros per meter. The belt comes as a closed loop, but you may need to glue it to get it to the right length.

Please share your settings in the discussion when you've tested it in combination with a commercial belt! ]]> Erik Tue, 01 Dec 2009 10:36:11 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1362 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1091
Makerbot-printable pliers for light-duty uses. Designed to be useful for holding small things during inspection, or simply doing things fingers can not.

There is a male arm, a female arm, and a printable nut. The female swivels around the male, and the nut constrains the assembly. The geometry of the threads are based on the connections seen in the toothbrush holder and originally in the screwable jewelry box. ( thingiverse.com/thing:899 , thingiverse.com/thing:413 )

Alternatively, if the design is too optimistic, you can try printing two female arms and use a small screw and nut to hold it together.

All three pieces combined use a total of 1.24 cubic inches of material. ]]> Starno Mon, 05 Oct 2009 21:01:30 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1091 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:790
penplotter4I know people have already experimented with this a bit but I thought it would be nice to have a slightly more elegant solution to the problem of mounting a pen or pencil or brush or whatever to the Makerbot (before I had just hot-glued a marker to my extruder).

*Just updated it with an extra piece that you can print and strap on with rubber bands that allows the pen/tool to travel slightly, allowing better contact with the surface. It does this while still allowing the pen to be picked up off of the surface when you need to start a new line. ]]> langfordw Sun, 12 Jul 2009 21:33:57 +0100 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:790