This is a moderately larger 3d printer based on the ever popular Mendel, Prusa.

The build envelope in mm is 300,250,150 (x,y,z respectively).

There are a lot of subtle differences in this design that I made to suit my own needs. For instance; the
X-ends are interchangable and lock onto the smooth rods from the sides to prevent splitting along layers.
And the A-side threaded diagonal rods are outside of the front and rear cross rods for better clearance
with the extruder at high z-limit. I reconfigured the vertexes to make that possible.

I finally made a re-design of the extruder assembly of a Beta
Ultimaker.
The design was on my mind for a long time.
The advance is the bigger diameter off the "bolt" (20 mm) and a bearing as a pressure roller.
Also the wheel has just straight grooves so I don't have to clean it anymore.
Because the grooves are straight it's not grinding in the filament
anymore.
I print for many hours without cleaning.
My parts are looking better also because of the constant transit of
the filament.

The only disadvantage is that you have to make some parts in steel.

Geo Hagen
hagentb.nl

This is a handle for manual control of the Z axis of a SumPod 3D printer

it's a 3d Replica of the orgininal Galdio Romano of the Ancient Rome
The size of the blade is about 40 cm
It's Strenght enought to engage a real battle!! XDXD
the File Impungatura is a netfab fixed version of the Grip of this: thingiverse.com/thing:10392

The 3D printer Galileo is a 3d printer open source .It' s a derivated work from the model of the RepRap Prusa from which the movement of the axes X, Y, Z but have been substantial changes that have allowed achieve greater print area and a lower cost of implementation

Indice

1 Index
2 The Premises
2.1 Bigger Dimension
2.2 Cheaper Structure
2.3 Open Design
3 Benefits of the model:
4 Videos



The Premises

The RepRap Prusa has an intuitive design and a system of simple and easy assembly, the plastic parts that make up the structure are easy to handle and require no great difficulty in mounting them with the mechanical structure, and allow to obtain results even without linear bearings and other benefits . The final structure is solid and makes it easy to transport thanks to low weight.

Bigger Dimension

The first step was to increase the size of printable area.La structure has been developed in such a manner so as to have more space to print.

Cheaper Structure

Another significant change has affected the mechanical structure of the new printer.It was find a new structure that could use a smaller number of pieces and always have a solid one .Similar to the mechanical also plastic parts have also been modified where possible or completely renovated. all this has led to savings in economic terms but also in terms of time required to assemble the printer itself

Open Design

The structure of the new printer is made to have an open design that allow subsequent changes in every part, also the X-cart which moves the extruder-it was so designed as to be universal and can be used with any type of extruder .The 'print area is easily accessible for a heated bed or in order to analyze the subject in print a


Benefits of the model:
Quick and easy to assemble Model
Spare plastic Intuitive: easy to assemble and print
Number less than threaded rods
Number less than smooth bars
Amount less hardware
Belts shorter
Open Design
Extruder in view
X-Cart is compatible with all types of extruders available
Printing area easily accessible
Print the objects in view

Sorry for my English...
Best Regards
Lorenzo


Some Videos:
youtube.com/watch?v=0Q-ClmwHfTU&feature=player_embedded

youtube.com/watch?v=Nd-upXvIbSo&feature=player_embedded

This is very much in progress of being built and designed ad-hoc, But I've started on a Ultimaker style bot that is a meter cubed in volume. So that I can print a Chair!

Each corner is printed on my Makerbot, and then standard 4x2 steel tubing can be inserted to make the frame.

Each side is cross braced with threaded rod to make it true and the 16mm ground shafts are used as guides for the head.

The head is on a 10mm shaft and houses two LLU10's for smooth running.

The head is designed to accept up to 4 heads but I will need to figure out a way to keep the weight down, because even with 10mm shafting there is some flexing.

The platform when build will have two ball screw on opposite corners with two linear bearings on the other corners.

Each axis will be powered by Nema23's at 48v going through some Gecko Drivers, but I intend to rig up my Makerbot Mother board to control this, so that I can re use the Extruder controller for the head.

Anyway, I will start posting files when they are ready.

Frog Prince originally from Grimms fairy tales. A classic fairy tale character that no castle should be without.

I lost it and I couldn't buy a replacement, so I bought a 3D printer and I built my own.
I added a hole to accomodate a screw for the camera.

This upgrade to the ancestor also was resized to fit the SLR size gorilla tripod.

My printer is called "sloth mendel". I am pretty curious if "sloth" has in any way the same meaning as in german, where it is "Faultier". That literally means "lazy animal". That name comes from the shape of the vertexes, which reminded me of the character Sid from the movie "Ice Age". Additionally the name fits because auf the german meaning, since much less time would be needed to build the whole frame, comparing to the prusa mendel. Additionally I think less plastic and less parts are needed to be printed. All the parts, except the frame can be clipped on to be easily swapped.

Instead of the threaded rods for the frame I am using 10mm smooth rods out of aluminium. They can be cut to length precicely with a circular saw bench with arrester and sliding table (I do not really know the exact names for the tools and had to look them up, please correct me). Also I use the saw for the reliefs, which really should better be done with other tools, but it works quite well (Unfortunately I do not have access to a lathe yet.) The rods need a M6 internal thread. Therefore I improvized again and used a box column drill. (Again, no lathe...) I screwed the drill to a thick board, drilled with 10mm through the board and inserted the 10mm rod. Then I fixed the whole thing on the workbench and tapped the thread. You could argue, that the described process is more time-consuming than the threaded rods and I agree, but I like the fact that the frame is much easer put together. That could make it a perfect variation for sold kits.

Some of the parts might even be possibly used with a normal prusa, like the bar-clamps and definitely the idler wheel insteat of this impractical large diameter washers. Also, I used the same distance between the z-axis rods for compatibility. In some cases I combined several parts into one, compared to the orignal prusa design. I should have used the same distances for the frame as well, but I did not.

Initially I planned to finish the printer and print all the parts on my prusa. But the printrbot design flashed this plan. So I am stopping the development and the sloth mendel will stay unfinnished forever.

Sorry for the positioning of the parts in the stl. Maybe someone can tell me why they look as they do...

Not much to say. It is a webcam bracket.

This is the printer I have been working on for the past two years or so... I finally have enough done that it is worth sharing with others. I took everything that I liked from other designs and got rid of that horrid threaded rod approach.. The frame is built from Misumi rails and is extremely rigid. the x, y, and z axis are simple and easy to assemble and they are all rock solid. The extruder still needs a bit of work but I am close to finishing it. I plan to make it useable with Makergear's groove mount system as well as a system of my own design.. More on that later.

I will be posting updates as they happen to my blog here.
printingdreams.blogspot.com/

and the files are posted here
github.com/Jolijar/Rook-3D-Printer

All files are done is openscad
This is very much a work in progress so parts will change.
The printer is not operational at this time
(I am waiting for electronics and to finish the hotend design)

Enjoy.. and feel free to ask questions :)

Edit:
Video of Z-Axis in motion
youtube.com/watch?v=S49dSoT1gh0

This is a "car" created with a 3-d printer in order to fullfil the objective of a prechallenge of my university group "UC3M Challenge - Mission: MARS".
The prechallenge consist in making a "car" with the 3-d printer that is going to race in a 5 degree inclination ramp which is made of sandpaper.

Shown here is a portion of my 8th version of the MultiRep. I'm not sure how well this device is panning out, but I wanted to post it for posterity. This version has a few interesting features:

Printed Linear rails and shuttles riders
Printed threaded rods
Use of dovetails for connectors

This axis would be perfect for use EXCEPT the threaded rod is too wobbly, binds a bit too much, and was difficult to align. Could I use a metal threaded rod? Of course, however I consider that a failure of design. My ultimate goal is to remove ALL non-printable parts from the design.

I'm going to start working on my 9th version now, which greatly reduces printed parts and adds stability, Feel free to cannibalize any parts you see here. You may need to change around some paths in the scad file to get it to compile.
-S

We have the pleasure to present (for the second time since Thingiverse is having some trouble lately) the ultimate rubber propelled X-Wing Car!

I designed a larger dual head 3D printer using Generation 4 electronics from MBI, I call it affectionately TOM-BOY. It took me some time but I could not sleep unitl I designed a printer that was larger, accurate and reliable. At least I think it will be? I designed it using standard DFM policies using common parts through out. The design uses all dual NEMA11 Non-Captive screw drives on each axis. The screw I selected will give .001mm acuracy and 400mm in travel. The print area is right at 270mm+ in all directions and a bit more in the z direction.
The Hot End is also customed designed with new dual gear drive, and is set up for 1.75mm material.

Other Features:
*Inverted electronics bay so you can get to all electronics
*Plastic scerw locks so acrlyc will not crack
*Fully inclosed with door access
*Feeders for filiment spools
*HBP is atached by magnets for easy access,service and leveling
*All parts used to construct each axis can be printed on a TOM
*Gen4 Interface board and display bult into design

A pen made mostly out of 3d printed parts. Fist thing I have ever 3D printed.

This is my answer to storing all those failed prints, and raft materials, and leftover filament, in a handy dandy containment unit, called a "Maraca". Make 2 or more and it's PARTY TIME! Make a derivative, or Mashup. The Handle has a key core that is 10mm diameter, with a 15mm x 5 mm key that twists into a keyhole (2mm material thickness for keyhole). It can be made on a Makerbot.

Spoolholder wallmount for Heavy duty printable filament spool (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10219).

Prototype #2 of control knob for rotary potentiometers from Praxis Guitars. Push to fit on fin and coarse spline shafts for most guitars and basses.

I'm the proud owner of both the Thingomatic and a CupeCake 3d printers. I've been wanting a larger build area for awhile and it seems like a Reprap Mendel is one of my best options.

After looking over all of the Mendel designs out there, I thought it might be nice to bring some of the T-slot style construction to Mendal style hardware.

I spent this weekend working with my FireBall V90 CNC Router to come up with a basic concept and I've decided to go with a upside down T style design. I ordered a set of linear bearings from kclinear.com and I should have a full frame design put together in a few more weeks.

Tell then this is a work in progress.

Update: Just added the upright frame parts and build platform spacers. I designed this with 6 screw mounts on either side of the frame. I'm now starting to work on motor mounts and Z slider brackets.

Update 9/16/11: Added Top motor mount plate and some support peaces. It's coming together well.

Update 9/16/11:Z and X stage mounts add. Two holes on either side of Z bearings left for lead screw mount. The current design is for use with a traditional mendel Z rod for vertical motion. I might make a few modifications so that this could be used with the motors used on thingiverse.com/thing:10103. I like the idea of being able to use the same settings on this as I use on my TOM.

This is about my supervisor's idea, now we had a DC motor for MK5 extruder, and we are waiting for the mk6 nema 17 motor, so in awhile, we want to try it on our DC motor and see how it work and we can use it later.

Like the original extruder filament drive files of Jag thingiverse.com/thing:7113 , i want to move the motor's screwposts so we can insert the DC motor on.

Backlash is an ugly truth. The Lash module in Skeinforge produces Gcode that's even uglier. It's default settings are more likely to confuse you than correct your print. But breaking backlash down, one axis at a time can start to teach you more about your printer's capabilities.

The Lash module might not be something you employ all the time, but understanding how you can use it to improve a print is certainly worth knowing.

This has been the ultimate project for me, and is now finally functional after 8 months of blood, sweat and ABS.
It is also made on my 3d printed makerbot ( thingiverse.com/thing:3285 )

The printer can easily get taller by adding more z-elements and replacing z lead-screws and wobble arrester bars. I would then end up with almost 800mm build hight.

It wouldn't surprise me if this is the largest printed multi-piece object, as it is built from 15+ lbs of ABS plastic.

Specs
Footprint: 800x560
Build envelope: 500x300x200+
Platform: Heated with 800W, custom ordered, silicone wire wound element.
- Kapton sheet, custom ordered to fit platform (500x300)
Motors: NEMA 23
Extruder: MakerBot Stepstruder® MK6 Plus
Electronics: MakerBot® Generation 4
Interface: PC/Mac or MakerBot® Gen 4 Interface Board Kit v1.1
Motion: all axis uses linear bearings for smooth motion.

Build duration: 8 months
Plastic used: 15+ lbs
Price: 3000$ (approx.)

Video of the printer in action: youtube.com/watch?v=Cx2OUO-aSFQ

(working title "Daedalus 3D")

One day this might be a my big and mighty 3D Printer :)

I chose the same concept as ultimater and scaled it a bit up. This can be done without laser cutter, but easily with jigsaw.




first i decided to build a reprap mendel. but printing all the parts and assemble the 500screws also take a lot of time. and i don't like the design of reprap. it doesent look very aesthetic in my optinion.

so i considered to make my own design i could made within a few hours that is stable and covers the power supply boards and cables. the wooden pieces were precut by the local store. the rest was done with a jigsaw and a portable screwdriver. for material i chose beech multiplex and i broght them precut in 8 pieces:

2x 32*46 (sides)
1x 46*44 (back)
3x 30*44 (bottom mittle and top)
1x 9*44 (front-top)
1x 12*44 (front-bottom)

> about 1 sqm material, beech multiplex (about 25eur)

the parts for the building surface are made of waste from the cut-outs of the other parts. the whole box was build in 3 hours.

i dont know the effective build volume yet, but it could be up to 30l*20w*20h cm i think. btw this was another reason for designing my own case: making bigger things. tomorrow i will get the rods :)

electornics: gen7 with opto endstops / pololu stepper drivers/ usb breakout board / nema 17 steppers

the most wonderful machine in the world

Coming soon pictures, videos and more info

Video #1 youtube.com/watch?v=kGiIFeziWWg

cubevector.com

This RepRap Power Ring can be set to use "standard" ring sizes for around the world. Instead of having to enter the specific measurement you can simply select your region (there are 4 available) and then enter the ring size appropriate for that region.

So if you need a size 13 ring in the US, then the first parameter would be 0 (setting the region) and the second would be 13 (setting the size). There are 3 other parameters for things like thickness, depth of the logo, and whether the edges are beveled or not.

NOTE: The .stl is just a sample that creates a ring in the US/Canada size of 13. To set your own size edit the OpenSCAD file, render, and export your own .stl.

I just took out the textures from the Rubik's cube for the blind in case someone wants to print a plain one and sticker/color it ;)

I needed a way to mount a laser to an L bracket for a lunchbox laser light show project (http://laserlunchbox.com/LunchboxLaser_08_kh.pdf). I designed it in OpenSCAD to fit the laser module I have, and to fit the 5/8" bracket I had. It's somewhat parametric though it has some issues when scaled outside the intended size. The mounting holes are teardrop shaped to facilitate printing, using a simplistic teardrop module I created (there are better teardrop modules on Thingiverse, but it is included for completeness). If the holes are an issue (they were for me), they can be commented out.

It's designed with a small slit and tabs which can be clamped together with a M3 bolt, nut, and a couple washers.

There was already a monitor top Wii sensor bar holder on Thingiverse... thingiverse.com/thing:5385

But it didn't fit my TV, so I designed my own on OpenSCAD. It's pretty simple so I'm sure anyone can easily change the measurements for their own TVs (I made this one day after I first learned about OpenSCAD).

Yes, I'm crazy. Its SUPER Cupcake Mk3. (Proof of Concept).

More Cupcake, and more SUPER! (because hopefully this one works right).

All rights withheld and no design files posted as I'm still trying to decide what to do with it.
A)Finish it off as is, with just the addition of a bowden extruder.
B)Make it even more super, fitting everything within the cupcake casing.
C)Roll everything I've learnt into a complete new printer.

I'm very tempted to go for option C.

we shall see.

First Print: Shakey print head due to me cheaping out on the shafts!
youtube.com/watch?v=b7o2PwLvcrg

First Bowden Print: Still got the shakes!
youtu.be/bruxQMhb9ig

Now with 8mm shafts for all axis and printing at 75mm/s. I think that much higher speeds can be done. I'll have time to debug and fine tune next week.
youtu.be/XdKf-VSnwnE

The Wormdrive extruder is very noisy... interesting experiment (and great to prove its possible!) but I'll be going back to my herringbone gears I think.