My first attempt of creating a 3D printer. It is for my A-Level Product Design and loosely based on the MendalMax - but all my own design. The only two parts that are a near exact copy of other parts are the direct drive extruder by *raldrich* and the MXL pulley gear from *RepRapPro*. I have simply converted the extruder to use a NEMA 14 stepper rather than the geared motor.

The idea was to make a simple to build printer using as few nuts and bolts as possible and maximum printed parts. Also I wanted to have a double extrusion system as well. Build volume is 200x200x170mm on one extruder or about 200x150x170 with both extruders

I have no guarantees that this will even work - but I plan to eventually build it. I would welcome any constructive comments to improve it. Also any suggestions for a better name would be great ;)

Once I start to order parts I will update a BoM on here. I have tried to keep it so that all the parts are the same throughout the printer (same linear bearings, bearings, 8mm rod to all axis' etc) to reduce the number of different parts to order.

Attached is the SketchUp file of the complete fabricator - again I will update with STL's of parts as I start to build.

*Update 18/05/2013*
Added the STLs. The carriage is still not complete as I have yet to decide on a hotend etc. Also haven't added the extruder yet - although the current design can be pulled from the SketchUp file.

One part is to adapt a 25mm square fan to a 1" hole. It's expensive to find a 24.5 mm drill(the hole size for a 25mm fan), and 1" is larger than 25 mm so you would have air leaking. If you want to mount a 25mm fan to a 1" hole with almost no leaks, use this adaptor.

The other part is to adapt a 25mm square fan to blow air into or suck air out of a 1/2" id(inner diameter) hose. Use a hose clamp to secure the hose.

Use them together or separately. Small holes are 3mm. They are arranged in a square 20mm on a side.

The Sheliak Spool Holder is designed to get the filament spool moved off of your 3D printer's frame, and snug alongside the base. It's designed for easy adjustment between different spool sizes.

The Shlieak Spool Holder is our newest addition to the Sheliak component set for the PrismX. This spool holder is for the PrismX 3D Printer (http://prismx.terawattindustries.com) which works with thing:84678. It should also work with other frame designs with slight modification.

It has three (3) feet for support and is designed to attach to the machine base, as a fourth support (it's not intended for standalone use). It uses acetal bushings, and can also be used with thrust bearings or 608RS (or 608ZZ) bearings. It's adjustable by sliding the outer arm in/out depending on the width of the filament spool.

For the PrismX we we have rubber pads that attach to the bottom of the feet. Felt should work also to dampen vibration.

This is designed to mount onto the left-rear corner of a PrismX. It's designed to be compatible with any open-frame machine, really. To modify it to work with MendelMax, Prusa i3, Aluminatus, Prusa, and other machines you'll need the parametrized SCAD files, which are being published. As always we'll link to our github repo when that happens. We'll need to modify the height of the feet for those designs. The mounting plate is made for 20mm aluminum t-slot extrusion, but we can modify it to attach to rounded frame rails also.

UPDATE: The arms, dowels, and a few other things are revised after the initial prints, so we're re-printing. The base is rather large, over 260mm, to accomodate 2kg spools. It won't be printable for most, but we have ways to make it. The base could be made with a laser-cutter from acrylic or other materials. I modeled this in OpenSCAD for 1kg and 2kg spools, and the spacing required for 1kg spools still wouldn't work to get it under 200mm.

Overkill extruder...
Maximum traction provided.

Just a digital experiment yet..
using parts from LoialOtters NerfTank

get a animation here:
youtube.com/watch?v=fTwA5jwvxY0

A full collection of all the printed parts needed to make a Diamond Age 'Rroofl' 3D Self-Replicating Printer. More info on the wiki at reprap.org/wiki/Rroofl

The 00str00der is a belt driven extruder designed via collaboration between myself and Terawatt Industries (http://terawattindustries.com). The extruder can be made to work with a variety of printers. It is the standard extruder for the new PrismX 3d printer (http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/575684524/prismx-open-source-3d-printer?ref=live).

Here is a video of it in action on the PrismX: youtube.com/watch?v=_vMh1Gb-snw

The 00str00der is compatible with the kuehling x-carriage mounts via the included mounting adapter plate. OpenSCAD source files are available on github (https://github.com/iquizzle/00str00der). Pulley sizes are parametric so that any size can be used. There are options for mounting either a j-head or push-to-connect tube adapters for Bowden extrusion. "Standard" M8 hobbed bolts can be spaced to work with the 00str00der. Slotted motor mounts accommodate NEMA17 motors, and allow belt tensioning.

Parts can be self-sourced online, but kits will also be available through Terawatt Industries. For the moment, I recommend getting the parts you need by supporting their kickstarter campaign!

to damp the vibrations of my printer I designed and made ​​of ABS a presser foot up two neodymium magnets in opposition.
Most are big magnets greater is the force that opposes the weight of the structure.
my printer that exceeds 30Kg I used two cylindrical magnets from 18x5 mm, but are just enough
youtube.com/watch?v=Rr9P2ksy52Q

3d printer, my project

This is one file with all 10 parts from thingiverse.com/thing:4398 laid out so as to be printable in one run.

I figure not everyone would have the means to pile them on like this into one STL, so I did it. Picture mid-print is 18 hours into the print using Axon2 settings for green ABS. Sadly, those settings don't quite work for me, so I run the .bfb file through a php script for post-processing.

My own personal 3D printing demon is to get through the first hour of a print. After that, I'm OK. So rather than try 10 1~3 hour prints, I wanted them to go all at once. Also, they are close enough that Axon2's raft is interlocking between the various parts, helping them to stay attached to the print bed (part of my problem overall).

A 3D printer filament spool to help when modeling spool holders and wind-up tools.

Android Meets Arduino: The Sequel

The Android Hack-a-bot is a miniature robot based on the Arduino(tm) Pro Mini from Sparkfun and the Official Android DIY Figurine from DYZPlastics. Hack-a-bot is a light-sensitive robot that can be activated by waving your hand over its sensor or flashing a light at it.

Hack-a-bot has three modes: active, sleeping, and dancing. In active mode his backpack shines yellow. In sleep mode its backpack shine blues and an extra set of commands (waves) is needed to activate. In dancing mode its head spins and its backpack lights up - both in random colors and motions.

Check out a video of hack-a-bot at ustream.tv/recorded/32104339.

Hack-a-bot is 100% open-source. It's also hackable, naturally, so the Arduino enclosure can be easily opened/closed, and the robots' head can be removed for access to its servo motor. It's designed to be an introduction to robotics and hacking. All of the Arduino pins are exposed, so the little robot can be reprogrammed, refurbished, and repurposed.

To power Hack-a-Bot you'll need a USB micro cable. Terawatt Industries has a battery-powered version of the Android Hack-a-Bot, and wireless, in the works.

A 3D-printed enclosure for the Arudino(tm) Pro Mini from Sparkfun. Comes with two printed L-brackets and spacer rings. This printed enclosure is strong and robust and exposes all pins on the Arduino for hacker access.

The full Sketchup source, including the latest version(s), can be found at terawatt-industries.github.io/enclosure-3d-pro-mini-arduino/.

I created the original design for this part almost 2 years ago. At that time I had it made on an SLA printer - it looks amazing but it cost $90USD to have made. Since then I discovered how beautiful laser-cut acrylic looks, so we've been working a similar concept in 2.5D acrylic. Now that we have printers and open-source software that can handle the small parts in this design, we decided to give it further revision and testing. It works great!

This is a linear delta 3D printer based on Johann's Rostock which has been enlarged to acomodate roughly double the print volume.

All of the 3D printed & laser cut parts have been made thanks to the Artilect Fablab Toulouse.

This is still work in progress so below you will find a blog like story of the build & set-up:

- 18/05/2013 Geting a bit better...
- Just made two more print reducing temperature & extruder feed and now it start to look as a very small cube 10mmx10mm. (see the picture)

- 17/05/13 First Print!!!
- After fighting without sucess to have Repetier working I guess I will need to get an atmega1284 to replace the 644 that came with the Gen7 but which lacks memory for Delta printers.
- I finnaly manage to get a 10uH self to replace the 100uH original one and got rid of the brown outs
- Over the week I had to transport the printer a few hundred kilometers by car and apparently it did notlike it as play started to appear on some components and notably the joints.
- Very late tonight I finally manage to attempt a first print: a 10mm cube, there was to much plastic feed and the hot end was too hot, so the result is not great see the picture and the video youtu.be/8jBBFH91Mn0.
- Still som work to do to hage high quality prints. Any way I'm very happy to be finnaly able to have a first print.

- 12/05/13 A bit frustrating
- I finnally managed to have the repeter firmware heating the hot end (the temperature measurement will need calibration)
- For some strange reason it needs to be on the bed sensor plug & not the extruder, I guess I'l need to go & see in the Pin layout of the firmware.
- But with repetier I do not manage to get the axis moving !
- So I have the axis moving on the Marlin & extruder heating on Repetier...

- 11/05/13 Trying to get it hot
- Assambled the hot end
- Assambled the extruder (Wade) initial plan was tu use it deported (Bowden) with a Teflon tube to link it to the hot end but I do not yer have the tube so it will be mounted directly on the platform. limiting speed & amplitude in the mean time.
- With a friend we assembled the hot end to the extruder and then tryed it on the board. We were quite disapointed to see that there was still a 0°C temperature reading. I just realosed now that on the 06/05 the quick fix that I used to stop the broun out problem disables the temperatures. and I could not yet purchace the termistance to definately correct the brownout problem.
- Therfore I tryed the Repetier-firmware with the lower memory settings & it seems to work. (it still needs to be configured properly for the rest.
- Tryed again the heater with the Repetier-Firmware and there it was displaying -55°C which felt strange as earlier we tested the thermistor resistance & it was around 114k Ohms.


- 10/05/13 Plenty of problems & some solutions:
- After all the problem described bellow it finaly made some first decent drawings see the video: youtu.be/04nmR4zaZQw
- Marlin Configuration Files & Test STL used for the drawings added to the downloadable files.
- Found the solution for the homming problems from yesturday Had to reduce Max speed in the firmware.
- Still one of the axis was not moving properly. At first I thought it was losing steps so I tried to increase the Driver's Current without sucess, I even switched the Drivers without results, to finnaly find that it was the pulley that was not tight enough.
- Once that was solved I went back to drawing experiments and for some reason the drawings were to small & the overal movements where shorter than expected, after verifying all the set-up of the firmware was more or less correct found one error on the DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET which was 22 on the original rostock & now is 28.0mm but this did not solve the main problem. Therfore I started to measure the belt pitch which was 2.5mm as expected and I went to count the numbers of teeth and there I understood where the problem was comming from: The pulley which I thought was an 18teeth one was in fact a 16teeth one. Once this corrected in the firmware It gave much better results.
- Still some issues of steps lost from time to time
- Glonally it looks rather sensitive to the speed the 400 steps per revolution & the 16 teeth T2.5 pulley means that it is hitting the maximum steps/s limits of the arduino
- On top of that there is some issues of repetability of the starting height due to the endstops set-up which is not yet perfect
- With all this I did not get a chance to try again the Repeter Firmware.


- 09/05/13
- Installation of end-stops
- Start of calibration
- It made it's first drawings (It is not great for the time being)
- Some issues with homming: when moves comands are sent it moves correctely but when homming the steppers vibrates and nothing moves. I assume it is a error in my ste-up of the firmware, or too low current in the stepers drivers TBC.
- Had some feedback on the issue with Repetier forums.reprap.org/read.php?267,206320 which should come from an excess usage of memory so I will try to lower the memory useage as advised and I will let you know.

- 07/05/13 Platform fitted & moving
- Diagonal rods Cut from The carbon Arrows & glued to the Jaws
- Got some extra MDF to rigidify the structure at some later point
- Fitted Diagolal rods & Platform to the Printer
- Tried some movements: it is not perfectely flat yet nor rapid but it is going the right way. Here is a video of some of the first moves youtu.be/qAyjTx0MV_U
- The Z stepper seems a bit week I will need to adjust the power on the driver.

- 06/05/13 IT MOVES!!!
- Did not work on the structure today
- Temporarly gave-up on Repieter Firmware and moved to the modified Marlin by Johann
- Got Brown out issue on Marlin as described in the following thread github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/issues/174 Got to change L1 on the Gen7 V1.4.1 as explained on the last post. I used the temporary fix from the first post as I do not require heating.
- Had to invert the Pinning of the steppers for them to turn on the correct direction
- For some strange reason the M80 comand needs to be entered manually
- Now all the three axis moves corectly on delta mode!

- 05/05/13 Now it looks like something
- Installed The belts & Steppers on each axis
- Assembled the Three Axes with the frame
- Still fighting with Repetier Firmware to make it work in delta mode

- 04/05/13 Start of the assembly
- The three columns of the printer are now complete
- All motors & endstops are properly wired & tested on cartesian mode
- Configured & uploaded the delta mode of Repetier but for some reason the stepers do not move in delta mode. Still need to beter understand config...

- 03/05/13 Back to the printer after a forced pause.
Today I have been playing with the Gen7 & the stepers:
- Ran the Test set-up with sucess
- Installed the repetier firmware 0.82.2 & tested with sucess the cartesian mode steppers turning ok.
- Started to set-up the delta mode of the repetier firmware but haven't had the time to test it today.

Enlarged version of Johann's Rostock adapted with the folowing features:
- 400x400x500mm expected build area
- 0.08mm theoretical vertical presision (400step/rev + 18 teeth T2.5 Pulley)
- Carriages with self tensioning & play elimination

It is just the begining... Almost everything is available now it is time to start building.












To be Continued

Enlarged Rostock Carriage from Jcrocholl modified to:
- Include a belt tensionning device
- Take 12x1000mm smooth rods and KB-12-WW Linear Bearings
- Should clip the bearings (tested)
- 0.10° bearing holder angles to compensate play
- Changed groove to improve fabricability
- T2.5 self locking belt mount based on belt_coupler_v6 from Okatake

Some slight updates for better printing of the belt coupler

Introducing iMacerslide. I needed to move my iMac to the back of the desk in order to free up some desk space. So I decided to use Makerslide to create my desk stand. Very simple design. Nothing complicated here.

The file "iMac Stand Front" is a cover for the front of the 3/4 inch plywood. I used this part as a way to level the stand. Then I covered it with a piece of angled aluminum and added a brushed finish.

This box sits on top of the UP, ribbon and hothead plug PCB, and allows you to add a 12 position rotary dial with 1.8 ohm (5 deg) temp drops to each of the 11 positions, 1 being FULL temp.

I have not done the mod or test printed this box, so it may still need a little adjustment.

Use these to cover the upper corners on your Replicator.

WARNING DEPRECIATED: Replaced by thingiverse.com/thing:80425

Experience feedback on printed part:
- Bearing clips worked perfectly
- Bearing angles worked well no play! But 0.25° is to much and the carriage did not travel freely
- Belt mount did not print corectely

Enlarged Rostock Carriage from Jcrocholl modified to:
- Take 12x1000mm smooth rods and KB-12-WW Linear Bearings
- Should clip the bearings (Not yet tested)
- 0.25° bearing holder angles to compensate play
- Changed groove to improve fabricability
- T2.5 self locking belt mount based on belt_coupler_v6 from Okatake

I couldn't find a good way to adjust end-stop positions, so i made a way to move the flags around and then secure them. It is then possible to readjust them.

I Still need to add the BOM list and instructions to assembly it, although if you look at the renders, it's quite straight forward for the people who can't wait for it.

The files are free for everyone to use, replicate for your mates, your brother, sister, neighbor. But It has it's limitations, no Commercial use of the files thank you :).

Please if you like this design and you are downloading it, press the like button. It shows some appreciation and gives me motivation :)

DEPRECIATED: Replaced by thingiverse.com/thing:79147

I'm not convinced this is the best implementation but I want do build it rapidly so I went for limited change on the carriage.

Once the printer will be working I will try to spend some time on it to review the branch attachment to limit potential mouvments due to play in the bearings:
- Allignment of links to the center planes of the bearings booth vertically & horisontally
- Alignement of the belt mount to the center between the bearings
- M3 Screw based Bearing housings

The Cube is a solid little printer. It is *very* simple to use. There are barely any “knobs” to tweak. It’s good for someone that just wants to reliably print things without babysitting the printer. The ABS does have warping issues even with the heated bed. The big problem is the filament “razor blade” model. The printer is not that expensive, but they charge $49/0.7lbs of filament! (compared to $31/2.2lbs of Octave 1.75mm filament). That’s 5X the price!

It turns out that you can by-pass/defeat the Dallas Semiconductor 1-wire chip which is located in each cartridge. The chip stores the filament color, remaining amount, etc.

This adapter allows you to connect the plastic filament tube and then connect to a spool of generic filament. It was printed on the cube (version 1)

This is the result of a sad story in the reprap-movement.

[UPDATE:] but it most not! Please help to bring up a good documentation for this bot. It can be worth the work, it runs very quite. check out the pad here (working-space): pad.ctdo.de/p/Thinkpad_formerly_JapicaBot - as i provide the parts, i would provide the firmware too. make sure, everybody who needs it can get his finger on it.[/UPDATE]

I share the files, Benjamin McDaniels has created and sold to me in form of the ready assembled bot. I like his concept and luckily he has published his files under GPL. Because they are gone, it is my turn to reupload them, so the rest of the movement can get their finger on it.

Sad story? Not for this files. Not for me -all in all- but for s few funders (check Japica on Kickstarter..) and buyers (check Japica on ebay..). Well, the bot, what was delivered is far away from a professional "best printer from the USA", how he has called his invention in former times. Well, i got it in my hands for a price I had accepted. But others may havent had this luck. I had written many nice and kind emails and could threaten Japica with personal visit. Japica has found its way to Kickstarter and has canceled the funding after 5000$ for its new concept. I can call myself lucky because Japica has not reached Kickstarter before they have seen themself in a position, i which i could have destroyed the funding even before it has begun by posting about the delivering-time of about half a year. Make the emails public.

well, i got my bot. kind of a prototype. (have a look: youtu.be/FKxTzyK6H7k ) rough edges to fix. it couldnt work like it was delivered. sold as tested, but even the headbed is not equal. it has three different qualitys of prints. but there it is. I had have wished all luck for Benjamin McDaniels firm and development, promised to support him with high quality videos and comments. But Japica refused by sending a half-baked bot without any description. Nor support. Now the firm is gone, all files and reputations on Japicas own profile here in Thingiverse with it and support can only delivered by us, the community itself. Get the files! I think until now, it was a good concept, well developed, smooth design.

Thanks to DatenKrieger now there are 3 missing parts recoverted!1!!

well, i have forgotten to ask:
if someone could sent me a good firmware for the Japica printer, i would upload this at well. i could need some help with the configuration. and stuff.

Ultimaker with Twice the X,Y Build Envelope Keeping Z Standard

Designed in Tinkercad, to fit 6mm ply, like Printrbot. Keeps your wiring firmly secured, designed for 15 mm looming.

This is a prototype for a sensor that is intended to measure the width of plastic filament in real time as it goes into a 3d printing extruder. It is a proof of concept. The idea is that with a real-time width measurement the 3D printer could compensate the extruded flow for changes in filament width.

Prototype #2 is in progress, see thingiverse.com/thing:89044

All the STLs required to upgrade a Prusa style machine to the eckertech Hot End standard.

This mod will allow anyone to use an eckertech hot end on any standard Prusa style x carriage. i.e. Prusa, Prusa 2, Mendel Max, etc...

Print one of each file and 2 belt clamps.

The X Carriage uses 3 - LM8UU linear bearings.

The eckertech hot end is available here: eckertech.com/hot-ends/

The solidworks files are available on our github account here: github.com/eckertech/Ecksbot/tree/master/Mods/Prusa%20Carriage%20Mod

Hi,

I started to develop a tool that helps you to calibrate your reprap. At the moment it is available in German and in English.

This is just the Working part of the Project.

pre - Alpa phase

Planed Features:
- Full Calibration support
- Spool library
- Calibration protocoll
- ...

Languages:
-English

If you have more ideas or you find a bug write me a message or comment this Thing.


V1.0.6 : - Changed the default language to English

V2.0.0: - G-Code Analyzing added (Length,Weight, Volume, Price)
- x- , y- and z-Axis Calliabraion support
- improved E-Axis calibration


Thanks to Josef Prusa for his awsome calculation formulas!!!!

This cartridge was designed so that you can make your own OUYA shell and easily snap this housing containing your OUYA board, into that OUYA shell.

Imagine you took an Optimus Prime Transformer and put this OUYA cartidge into Prime's trailer. You'd have an Ouyamis Prime video game console.