This is a template for creating an Arduino LED matrix 3x3. It's easily expanded if you want to make a larger matrix.

Digital LED Light Strip to create images with long exposure photography.

Original project idea was inspired by TheMechatronicsGuy.

sites.google.com/site/mechatronicsguy/lightscythe/

A basic throwie with 4 spaces for magnets. A space for a battery was not included as it is held in place by the magnets. (Which are glued into place) The copper tape showed in the images proved to not be needed, but I didn't want to take it off.

made a case for my 12v battery meter to see my state of charge for my battery banks

A fancy lamp with room to add your own wiring to.

Improvements since the prototype:
1) Split up into four parts to allow for larger printing. Assumes a max build height of 8.5-9ish cm.
2) Base parts have threading so they just screw together. Top part is now printed upside-down to give it a nicer exterior surface.
3) Holes for wiring and adding switches.

LED light Guide

This will fit on a standard LED.

Any image can be added to the light guide and the image will light up when the LED is ON.

Similar to a small edge lit sign.

A holder for a 12v 60mm ring light. Designed to clip on to the 40mm fan on Greg's LM8UU X-Carriage: thingiverse.com/thing:9869

Inspired by ScribbleJ's design for the Makerbot: thingiverse.com/thing:6244

Winter is here, and sometimes you need to add a little bit of light :)

A friend (thanks Stephane!) gave me 100mm of LED, something like that bit.ly/yBIRM6 from ebay but cheaper.

To hook it to the bot I tried some shapes and, finally, since it's adhesive stripe, ended to this simple thing that clip on M6 rod (having the Huxley in mind).

4sec off/on video : flic.kr/p/b8qHNk

10sec video to see what it's look like when printing :
flic.kr/p/bbeQCD

Have you ever built a bunch of LED throwies for a project and then lamented when they all died out before you had the chance to integrate them into a project? Well! This LED throwie uses a magnetic reed switch to save energy by only turning on the LED once the throwie comes into contact with a magnet stuck to a metal surface.

The LED switching circuit consists of a ultra bright LED with the positive lead (longer lead) connected to a magnetic reed switch and the positive side of a 3v lithium button battery. The negative lead of the LED is connected directly to ground.

The enclosure itself was built on a Makerbot Thingomatic and was coded in OpenSCAD.

This parametric holder for the BlinkM MaxM is designed to replace 2 spacers on a stepper driver on the electronics board of a ToM. As such it requires no extra bolts to hold it in place and gives easy access to the I2C, DC Input and output pins on the BlinkM.

Information about the BlinkM MaxM can be found here: thingm.com/products/blinkm-maxm.html

Note that this isn't designed to have the daughter board (the included 3 led's) attached as this is for projects that are using the BlinkM to drive external LED lighting.

This "Thing" is part of a larger project for ToM Mood Lighting, but can also be used on it's own if you need to mount a BlinkM MaxM to your electronics.

Pimp your bot ! These instructions detail how to build software controllable RGB Mood Lighting for your ToM. The mood light is controllable via a new menu on the Gen 4 LCD Interface or via GCodes in ReplicatorG.

Your bot can now show it's build status via the color of the mood light.

Video (showing functionality):
youtube.com/watch?v=g3D0ScY6-dg
Video (mood light to music):
youtube.com/watch?v=FQDFPfnHu9o

Additionally, you can set your own RGB color, pick from a predefined list. Also you can pick animated color scenes, for example a Thunderstorm complete with Lightning flashes or signal S.O.S.

This is a beginners level project, with a tiny bit of soldering, and is designed for ToM Motherboard V2.4 (the version currently shipping).

Required parts are a BlinkM MaxM, RGB Led Strip, a couple of resistors and some bits and pieces you likely have lying around. (full parts list in the pdf).

You'll also need:

- The new Gen 4 Firmware: thingiverse.com/thing:15380
- BlinkM MaxM Holder: thingiverse.com/thing:15374

This lamp shade holds "star" type high power LEDs to make economical lighting fixture.
With a handy little controller, you can install LED lighting everywhere easily & economically.
I have a LED controller that's perfect for this kind of project. Please find the information at instructables (http://www.instructables.com/id/Universal-High-Power-LED-Driver-with-3D-printable-/).

I designed this clip to attach "star" type LEDs to my magnifier lamp shade. Star shaped heat sink snaps into the clip, and the clip clips to the shade. Conversion from the original florescent was easy with these clips.

Clip this light onto your Kindle 3 and read in the dark! I have plans to use a smaller battery and make an enclosure for the electronics, so it looks nicer. Or if anyone would like to make a derivative that would be awesome!

Twas the night before the night before Christmas and all through my house, I scrambled and shambled to clean up the…house…

It was Christmas eve-eve and my friends would soon be, here at my door with nothing to see!

So while cleaning and prepping I had a new thought, why not combine Christmas and my friend MakerBot?!

I took a quick break, a few minutes or so, and designed a tree that truly would glow!

With some plastic some solder and a few LED’s, I created a tree for my friends to all see.

When my friends all arrived they exclaimed ”wow that’s bright!”, and that’s what I did on my Christmas eve-eve night.

I designed a quick 2 color Christmas themed print that would hold a couple of LEDs and a 9v battery. The tree was printed in Nuclear Green and the base was printed in Fluorescent Red. The tree has holes to slide 5mm LEDs into and the back of the “Merry Christmas” base has room to slide a 9v battery in sideways. The battery doubles as a stand when it’s placed on a shelf and alternatively there is a notch near the top so it can be hung from a nail on your door.

More info can be found in my blog post here: thenewhobbyist.com/2011/12/last-minute-christmas-door-decoration/

Carefully hand modeled in C4D, this lovely box cradles your BlinkM controller in loving ABS. You'll need a rubber band or something similarly classy to keep the lid on, though it fits pretty snuggly. There is also no built-in means of attaching it to anything (like your TOM's z-stage assembly). Finally, there's nothing really holding the board in place, so it can jiggle around. Easy solutions abound. I settled for double sided mounting tape and a test cylinder.

There are holes for DC power, 4-pin out to your RGB lights, and 4-pin in from Arduino or a LinkM. The LinkM fits right in there.

I just wanted something to hold our blinkM in a happy box. Said box could be improved in a million ways.

Inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:7018

I drew this from scratch and spent quite a while tweaking the model to have a fuller more natural look. It helps if you can keep the "branches" from cooling too much while it loops them around. If they go stiff too fast, then the branches don't droop down enough and it ruins the effect.

I had to slow my printer down to 20mm/s to avoid serial port errors causing it to crash, which of course allows the branches to cool too much before letting them drop. Putting a towel over the printer helped trap the heat, but I think it looks better if you can print it at around 35-50mm/s

Wanted to try out Kicad and I did that by designing a blinking Christmas tree PCB. It has 24 LEDs controlled by a ATTiny2313.

This is work in progress, no firmware yet.
I probably won't be able to finish this for this year's Christmas, so if you want to give it a try, go ahead!

This is the LED ornament topper that was a collaboration between CCCKC Hackerspace and Hammerspace Hobby & Community Toolshop (our new home) in Kansas City. It is a fun, quick 4 soldering point ornament insert. The LED cycles between several colors and modes with each on and off cycle. We decided to keep it awesome by printing the body and using only two components (LED and battery holder) and copper wire to extend the leads to create the ornament hanger and integrated switch!

We created this holiday-themed project as a fun way to create a gift and learn to solder at the same time! We hope you enjoy it and please customize it! It is a blank canvas and ripe to become many different characters and uses. One thought is to NOT trim one of the copper leads and have two swirls at the top, tapping those together to become a switch. Slap some googly eyes and BAM, reindeer! And don't forget Hanukkah! Turn these upside down and make a Menorah with 9 prints. You get the idea. Let those derivatives fly and feel free to improve it!

I used Autocad 123d - 123dapp.com mainly to learn this program a little more, try it, you might like it!

Cowtown Computer Congress of Kansas City - C3KC.org

Hammerspace Hobby & Community Toolshop - hammerspacehobby.com

NOTE: We specified two different LED's to choose from. Radioshack has an LED in store that works but we ordered ours from microelect.net/ over the phone. Yeah, over the phone!

Light up the inside of your Makerbot Thing-O-Matic! This mounting bracket supports an LED module that was originally designed to be used as a replacement for halogen (12VDC) lamps. The screw holes on the brackets match the hole spacing of the "unused / extra" rod support on the top front of the Thing-O-Matic. Inset nuts allow easy installation. You don't even need to make holes in your Thing-O-Matic!

Christmas Tree Ball lights for use with LED christmas tree string lights

This is a simple clip for LEDs which come 4 very bright white on a small PC board for $1.99 from the following source, and quite possibly others:

goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G15554

4 of these bright LEDs clipped to the Z stage of a ThingOMatic on each side of the extruder provides a good view of prints, especially at the beginning when you really want to see how the plastic is sticking to the platform.

These may also be useful for any other printers or devices that use 5mm plywood or material of a similar thickness.

// ("Daily earring" will be back soon, stay tuned)

Assembly picture, thingiverse.com/image:87926

Here's a quick thing I whipped up today:
We have a few winter house deco things infront of the window, but they have a few issues:
-The lamp's low lifetime
-Several Watts for dim lighting
-The cable is not very decorative (see picture)
+gets HOT!

So I thought about LED lights on rechargeable batteries. I modded my fiancee's mother's winter city with commercial LED light-bulbs last december, but for ours I wanted it "wireless".

I did see thingiverse.com/thing:9805 after I sketched my idea, but I thought I could save some material.
So this is what I came up with. Very stable!

+Note that it looks asymetric, but as both ends are, the contacts work fine.
+No glue, no solder, no screws. Pull apart after christmas, re-use parts.
+Slim design will fit into most places
+Could easily be modified to use 3 batteries (most white LEDs) or to attach cells in series
+I was able to get this designed and printed within about 30 minutes
+buying was no option, all stores are closed today.

On the picture I only showed the holder outside of the house as I only have these LEDs at the moment and they will not be bright enough on 2 cells. I plan on using yellow or 3 cells for white LEDs.

This is a hold for some LED lamps that I got of Ebay. Like this one: ebay.co.uk/itm/290614569497, it may have gone by now. But I am sure there are similar ones out there.

Source available from my github repo as well github.com/choffee/things

I wanted a LED ring to light up my build platform, and because I had a lot of high brightness 5mm LEDs lying around I decided to design a ring for those. The ring has holes for 16 5mm LEDs.

This is a pair of almost identical casings for throwies which fit together in several different ways and allow easy access to the LEDs so that it is easier to replace any dead battery. This was designed in tinkercad and printed using a MakerBot. I used 6x3h,10d=m, 2x6.5d,1m=m, Li3V coin cell 5mm LED

It's a big seven segment display :) I used three 5mm LEDs per segment with the intent that they could be wired in series and driven straight from a micro-controller output pin. Connecting my orange LED's wired up that way to a 5V supply gave a reading of 13 mA. A micro-controller should have no trouble driving the three leds without any transistors or resistors or anything. Depending on the voltage drop of your LED's you may need a small current limiting resistor.

I'd like to do a clock with this sometime soon. So I'll have to add an additional front plate with a clock type display instead of a decimal point.

Eventually I'll try for an 8 inch display using interlocking segments. Once the prusa is running I could do an 8 inch display all in one print. Of course the ultimate goal is a 12 inch display like evil mad scientist labs has for $50 each. Then world domination. (cue maniacal laughter)

Bar strip LED mounts and misc. LEDS are form superbrightleds.com, using their cheap in line dimmer re-mounted in a surface mount box.

I wanted to make an arc reactor for Halloween, so I decided to print one. Disappointed that there were no printable LED arc reactors, I threw one together in SolidWorks. It houses 14 LEDs and requires no other parts besides wires. It should fit on a Maker Bot if I'm right, it's 100mm in diameter.

I wanted a bit of extra light in the build area of my Prusa Mendel, and had some spare white LEDs from a recent LOLshield build.

This bracket will hold 6 small (3mm) LEDs, and attaches to the back of the Prusa Mendel X carriage, using spare headroom on the M3 bolts.