Generate it in any size.

Has an experimental feature to include an extra set of inner walls to protect the hinges from the contents. By drawing the hinge lines in a zig zag pattern, plotting time is reduced significantly.

This is a plate to mount gen6 electronics on the side of a Prusa Mendel RepRap. It was designed to be cut on a laser cutter out of 3mm acrylic or plywood, but it should be easy to cut on a cnc router too.

This 6 packer is made of .093 (3/32) thick clear acrylic.

LED light Guide

This will fit on a standard LED.

Any image can be added to the light guide and the image will light up when the LED is ON.

Similar to a small edge lit sign.

This diy Chess game is fun to make and play>

This derivative work exists to provide an SVG file for beauturner's "Bot Window for Cold Environment Printing" (Thing 15375). Beauturner's thing only provides a DWG file (which includes the rest of the ToM wood pieces as well). For cutting my panels, I needed an SVG description and I figured that other folks might as well. Thus, what is offered here is merely the result of converting beauturner's work from DWG to SVG by way of DXF. And then removing all the ToM pieces leaving only one of the panels beauturner designed.

This is a picture frame I made for my friend Stacey. It says "A best friend is like a four leaf clover, hard to find and lucky to have." It also has a little clover on it and "Stacey and Kelly". I also made a stand for it.

This is a picture frame I made for my friend Stacey. It says "A best friend is like a four leaf clover, hard to find and lucky to have." It also has a little clover on it and "Stacey and Kelly". I also made a stand for it.

Needed a place to put the shower gel in the shower, so I designed this part.
Didn't work out perfectly. I thought that the friction between the wall and the acrylic would be enough to keep it straight, but it isn't. If you put only one bottle into one side it will tilt (but not far enough to drop the bottle).

Here's a stylish laser cut BeagleBone enclosure for those that want to give their new embedded computer a good home.

Build platforms are sensitive to changes in temperature and can affect your prints. After testing a few iterations here is a design that is ready to share; I call it the Bot Window. I know what your thinking, what a creative and catchy name. :) Ok, truth be told its a simple but effective design that consists of acrylic panels to cover three sides of the bot (left, right and rear (and gets bolted on using left over MBI parts).

This summer the space I was in had a non-controllable AC where temps were around 55F, yes you read that right, (95F outside at the time). After blocking off air vents to decrease windflow in the room and covering three sizes of the MB (left, rear and right) with cardboard the temps went up to the 65F range. Using a make-shift hood on top (think barn roof) this got me to the 69F+ range and more importantly back to good prints without lifting of edges from rapid cooling.

With drafts from outside and windows in the new space the window panels have taken the chill off the platform (reduced draft) and keeping me in the mid 80's consistently. This design is based off of the MBI TOM MP887 Rev-I design file and will rest on top of the cover plates of the rods running from front to back.

If you have access to a laser cutter or know someone that has one, this will be quick work.

Panels were cut courtesy of my friend Angus Hines (http://www.angushines.com), thanks Angus!

Just a simple sled that mount for a BeaglBone and a 400-point breadboard that's pretty useful for quick prototyping with the BeagleBone.

This is a Pencil holder made of methacrylate. It have 3 pieces but you do not need glue.

Se trata de un portalapices hecho de metacrilato. Esta formado por 3 piezas que encajan unas en otras, se puede montar y usar sin necesidad de pegamento.

This is a simple plastic bender I made to form acrylic parts. There's not much to it, it's a flat platform with a groove to pass a nichrome heating wire through. There's an edge guide so the bends end up square if needed. The maximum bend width is about 14". 3D CAD files included from Solidworks 2010, not that there's much to them!

I noticed a serious lack of Parallax Propeller related projects on Thingiverse, so I decided to make a holder for a QuickStart Board I received.

Based on oomlout's original Arduino holder design, I made a similar holder for the QuickStart Board. Jessica Uelmen from Parallax came to our Hacker Space, FamiLAB, and gave an instructional class on the boards. I made this to hand out to the students.

This is a most simple design for a laser cut LED candle. The LED is powered by a coin battery cell. You can use any LED. Most realistic is a special yellow flashing blink LED as you can find them on ebay.

Updated with current prices and has:-

Large letter slot that is now 250mm x 25mm

and the Letter slot which is now 165mm x 5mm

It also now includes Packet pricing for UK first class packets from 1kg upwards.. Packets above 1kg can only be 1st class

Prices seem to have gone up by 10%-12%
The larger the item or its weight
The price increase seems to be more like 10% than 12%

NOTE! When using this if you have to put ANY pressure on the letter or package to get it through it is a FAIL!!.

If you item falls straight through the intended slot it is OK.

You can not cheat on this!! "ANY" pressure required to get it through it will cost more to post as the item being posted moves up from a letter to a large letter or from a Large Letter to a Packet,

These are two designs for Arduino carrier boards that you can mount an Arduino, breadboard, and battery holder(s) of your choice to. These are great if you want to run your Arduino project without being tethered to a wall or a PC and are great for Arduino classes, as you don't have to have a PC or wall wart for each participant.

The smaller version has space for a 400 point breadboard and your choice of either a 9-volt or AA/AAA battery pack. The larger version with space for a 830 point with both a 9-volt and AA/AAA battery pack (great for applications where you want to run servos or other devices off a separate power supply from you Arduino).

This is an hexagonally-tessellating lizard tile closely based on M.C. Escher's famous design. This vector art has lived on my old personal homepage, since 2008, at

seanmichaelragan.com/html/%5B2008-04-18%5D_MC_Escher_lizard_vector_art.shtml

Recently, Angus Hines (http://angushines.com) downloaded it and used it to lasercut a bunch of ~3" tiles in fluorescent acrylic (which are shown in the attached images), and it occurred to me it was probably time to share these files on Thingiverse.

Update 2011-12-15: Angus just sent me these photos of some lizards printed on FDM/FFF equipment, and I've uploaded them, as well as the .STL and .CDR files he sent along with. Thanks, Angus!

Since I wasn't fast enough to order the official, hand blown glass, TARDIS Xmas Tree ornament from the BBC America shop, I decided to head down to my local hackerspace and make one or two on the laser cutter.

This started off as the "TARDIS Coloring" image by "Violet Succubus" on DeviantArt (http://fav.me/d310mxy). It was the cleanest, nicest, B&W line drawing of the TARDIS from head-on I could find.

There was much fiddling, adding to, filtering and re-drawing by myself and two guys (both named "Matt") at my hackerspace, but many of those lines are still hers and for them I thank her. I don't think it would have come out as nice as it did without such a solid place to start from.

PS - Yes, I know. The windows are wrong. I'll get to it, but until then I'm calling this version done. :D

Most of my acrylic parts have been slightly cracked but stable for a long time. However since I got an MK6 Stepper and have begun ratcheting up the speeds these cracks seem to have grown... One acrylic extruder plate broke the other day (thankfully the MK6 upgrade kit came with a spare). So here are some quickly generated drop-in replacement printable .STL part files for the "Rainbow bridge" that supports the MK5/6 extruder. A more printer compatible support design could be made but the convenience of drop in replacement parts should not be over looked!

Oh, note that the largest part comes in 2 halves that lock together like jigsaw pieces. I would recommend gluing or acetoning these together.

Also, the narrow slots beneath the nut holes are for M3 washers as otherwise I feel the nut will get pulled into the plastic if you over tighten it.

To completely replace your Rainbow bridge you will need:
2x replacement_rainbow_bridge_V1.1_A.stl
2x replacement_rainbow_bridge_V1.1_B.stl
2x replacement_rainbow_bridge_V1.1_cross_brace.stl
1x replacement_rainbow_bridge_V1.1_left_foot
1x replacement_rainbow_bridge_V1.1_right_foot
1x replacement_rainbow_bridge_V1.1_top

Laser cut case for the TubeClock IN-14 6 Tube Nixie Clock kit: store.tubeclock.com/index.php/nixie-tube-clocks/nixie-clock-kits

This is a case I designed for the MightyOhm Geiger Counter kit: mightyohm.com/geiger

MORE PRINT VOLUME:

- Increased the lateral separation of 234 mm to 250 mm.

- It has moved 10 mm heated platform down.

- The resulting print volume depends on the platform and the extruder that we place but you can easily get a size bigger than 190 x 190 x 100 mm.

MORE ROBUST:

- The thickness of the acrylic has risen to 6 mm.

- The introduction of a crosspiece to give more rigidity.

- In the attachment points of the rods can be placed brimmed washers (DIN9021).

DESING MADE CONSIDERING THE WIRING:

- The electronics is on the left side of the printer, it is placed horizontally to get the cable up coming from above.

- Parts acrylic have holes or slots provided for wiring.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Like last time, the magnificent infographics have been made with Cinema 4D + VRay by PIKELO.

SPANISH VERSION AT:

reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Aire#PRUSA_AIR_2.2C_Redise.C3.B1o

A turntable for your very own drink-dispensing robot, and a pedestal to put the scale and drinks on.

These are the physical parts for my iZac drinkbot project, details of which you can find here: blog.notdot.net/2011/11/Introducing-iZac-the-Android-Bartender

This is a sign that says "Memories" with black and white pictures that show through it. It can be used for decoration.

I work at the Columbia University Lab for Unconventional Electronics, where we do a lot of work on organic electronics and fabrication, amongst other things.

We recently got 2 Makerbot Thing-O-Matics and decided to cut out the panels for the second one out of clear acrylic using a laser cutter. We also added some custom decals into the CAD file and etched them in. Two cold cathodes also add an extra bit of flare.

Here's a video of it in action: youtube.com/watch?v=pWmJrci-lg8

Our lab's website: kymissis.columbia.edu/

The arduino hardcase is a lasercut acrylic case that protects your arduino's ports and headers from being knocked off in a bag or backpack. It also provides a standard bolt pattern for mounting the arduino on another project. Holes cut in top piece allow easy access to the headers and the reset button, and with slight modifications shields could be added/enclosed.

These guitar picks are an easy to make they are sturdy as well, so they are good as picks. They are small so you need to keep an eye on them, but they are good picks. They are 3 mm thick florescent blue acrylic and they are very sturdy, but like all guitar picks they grind away eventually, but not as fast as the standard guitar pick.

I had a design I made etched out onto a piece of acrylic using a CNC laser. The design I made was a man jumping from one building to another and titled parkour.