Hand held air blaster, shoot bursts of air at all of your friends. Or put out candles.

I needed a small-diameter nozzle for my shop vac so I could suck goop out of the nooks and crannies found around my shop.

This nozzle fits on a fairly common after-market shop vac hose with an outside diameter of 45mm. It's available here:

woodcraft.com/Product/2000914/2780/Mr-Nozzle-Shop-VacDust-Collector-Tool-Kit.aspx

The nozzle gives you an 8mm vacuum aperture which moves a lot of air but is reasonably small.

This design requires a printer build envelope at least 80mm high.

MORE PRINT VOLUME:

- Increased the lateral separation of 234 mm to 250 mm.

- It has moved 10 mm heated platform down.

- The resulting print volume depends on the platform and the extruder that we place but you can easily get a size bigger than 190 x 190 x 100 mm.

MORE ROBUST:

- The thickness of the acrylic has risen to 6 mm.

- The introduction of a crosspiece to give more rigidity.

- In the attachment points of the rods can be placed brimmed washers (DIN9021).

DESING MADE CONSIDERING THE WIRING:

- The electronics is on the left side of the printer, it is placed horizontally to get the cable up coming from above.

- Parts acrylic have holes or slots provided for wiring.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Like last time, the magnificent infographics have been made with Cinema 4D + VRay by PIKELO.

SPANISH VERSION AT:

reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Aire#PRUSA_AIR_2.2C_Redise.C3.B1o

Method for constructing a Negative-Pressure Activated-Carbon Fume Chamber.

Eliminate ABS fumes/smell when ventilation to the outside is not an option.

Compatible with HBP and APB.
Costs about $35 and runs at about 4 Watts.

This is a wall mount for an air compressor filter (that removes moisture). It is over built as far as thickness, but it is solid enough for outdoor use and repeated handling (removing filter). The large hole could be re-sized to a radius of 29mm for a snug fit. Since I remove my filter instead of leaving it outside, I made it a little oversize. Also, keep in mind that any acrylic based moisture bowl will expand under pressure (don't make the hole too small).

ALREADY PUBLISHED THE NEW VERSION PRUSA AIR 2 AT thingiverse.com/thing:14204

Since I discovered the RepRap project I was surprised how much knowledge could be stored in an Internet community. I was impressed as a practical invention was able to born and grow in the network through the collaboration of specialists in various fields such as mechanics, electronics, computers ... all around the world.

In the mechanical field, It was a revolution when Josef Prusa got dramatically simplify the construction of a RepRap Mendel, current resulting Prusa, that has become a standard in building a RepRap. This also achieved make it much easier a person to be able to build a 3D printer.

The Prusa Air drinks from this spirit and tries to give a twist to the construction of a 3D printer. Its design is based on three basic principles:

1) To simplify the manufacturing and assembly (KISS principle).
2) Designing parts the cheapest way to be able to meet the requirements.
3) A little beauty.

With these guidelines, the use of RP parts is reduced for "commercial" pieces but always bearing in mind that they were readily available worldwide.

The changes are basically:

A) Most of the frame rods and RP pieces has been replaced by three pieces of acrylic embedded between them. They have followed all the design dimensions of Prusa, so for size, trips, electronics, firmwares... it works as a Prusa.

B) One of the sides of the typical Mendel triangle has been removed, resulting in a work area more accessible.

C) The holes for the rods have been changed so that the rods can be removed without having to completely unscrew the nuts.

D) The X and Z axis haven’t changed, they are exactly the same of a Mendel Prusa, the Y axis, as the guides are placed in the same way, you can choose to place a traditional Y-axis or mount a Y-axis with integrated heated platform like this: thingiverse.com/thing:11657.

All the infographics was made by Pikelo with Cinema 4D + Vray.

There is a wiki page writen in Spanish: reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Aire

I made this Thing to deflect the air that my router on my CNC was pushing out the bottom. No matter what I was cutting, whether I had the vacuum hooked up or not, the router forced all the dust into the air filling a room in a matter of minutes.

So I needed to come up with an object that will force the air out the sides instead of the bottom.

This thing has 6 outlets (22mm x 5mm), the outside inside edge is chamfered at 49* angle, and is easily removable for the next tool change.


This Thing fits 1/4" Trim Router from Harbor Freight item #44914.

prop for small 0.03" shaft 1/4"(9mm) electric motor.


Please take pictures and upload if you use this blade for the quadmini or another project. Thank you.

This is a printable quadrocopter. I have finished working on this to design a fully printable body for a quadrotor. I have redesigned the quadmini, I have uploaded the files. This design is less than 10grams using abs. I am using the guts from a downed chinook s026. I have bought two more I love them(chinook s026).

Well this is an proof of concept so to speak. Not really a thing ;-). What i do here is generate scad files. I was playing with that thought for a while now. Because its a bit strange. I use one programming language (action-script 3.0 and flex in my case) to generate the other.

In this case for the polygon method within openscad witch is powerfull but hard to read. So a made the visual helper for generation polygon call with a bit of extrusion

Weird but it works what do you think mad or mad science ;)

The small air app does not have any undo functionality and you can only draw on a grid, it was just to test something maybe i will add stuff to it ? should i ?

youtube.com/watch?v=0oSW9zlKsZ8

Update 14 Jun 2011:
Thanks for the great response but a bit of warning is in place the fxp source code is, well.. how do is say it.... very sloppy ;-) , just so you know build it 2 or 3 hours or so ( hack hack )


Update 13 Aug 2011:
Still working on it but not ready for its first release :-(
Some hints
- Layers (one layer is one openscad module) each layer its own color
- Adding and Deleting of Points and of course Moving points Splitting of segments
- Curves (Maybe)
- Save files (some json or xml) so you can save your work
- Web based and AIR app
- Etc Etc ;-)

This thing is fully parameterized and ment to be customized before printing.
It is optimized for supportless printing (blades are oriented vertically)
and designd out of two parts so that even on small buildspace printers pretty big propellers can be made.


Some ideas for improvement:
> add grooves for ball bearings
> design a fitting weather vane and a fitting mount
> add butten-cell powerd laserpointers to get a free lasershow at squally new moon nights
> generalize to 3 or more blades (4 noncoplanar should be easy)
> alter the blade shapes to something less classic but more fancy
> mount (suitable!) whistles to the tips (so your child wont be overheard when cycling), but don't forget the (slidable?) muting plugs then.

Or you might wanna go crazy and do something like this:
>right now its just a toy but one could:
>>modify the blade to a more aerodynamic teardropshape
>>twist the blade
>>make a coupling for a dynamo
> make the bladeangle physically adjustable
# print a lot of them all with different random parameters in reasonable margins and mount them on a kind of "wind sculpture"

Again: the appended stl is only an example!

Proof of concept

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vortex_tube

I love things people can't figure out. Why does the airstream split and produce two temperatures?

From the wiki:

"What is usually agreed upon is that the air in the tube experiences mostly "solid body rotation", which simply means the rotation rate (angular velocity) of the inner gas is the same as that of the outer gas. This is different from what most consider standard vortex behaviour — where inner fluid spins at a higher rate than outer fluid. The (mostly) solid body rotation is probably due to the long time which each parcel of air remains in the vortex — allowing friction between the inner parcels and outer parcels to have a notable effect."

Compressed air in middle, cold air out short side, hot air out long side. Maaaaaaaaagic.

We have a hand-wound impeller fan bellows for the log fire in the dining room and it makes a devil of a racket when you turn the handle. My wife hates it so I made a much quieter version that runs off a couple of AA batteries. Basically it is thingiverse.com/thing:7350 with a handle and battery holder stuck on, but I've improved the parametrics a bit.

If I run it off 12V it beats my 110mm forge blower!

A Roots Blower is an air pump with strangely shaped rotors. They are used in automotive superchargers and high-vacuum pumps, among other places.

See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roots_type_supercharger

This is a stand-alone Public Domain OpenSCAD file you can use to generate these mechanisms. This is intended more as an example of an interesting mechanism than as a useful pump.

The file uses code appropriated from
Leemon Baird's PublicDomainGearV1.1.scad
which can be found here:
thingiverse.com/thing:5505

This is an adapter you can use to inflate your old style bicycle valve using a compressor at a gas station. Use it at your own risk. Mine is not completely air tight at the outside (the side where you attach the compressor), but this is not a disadvantage as it prevents pumping too much air in.

As a kid I had a an air powered toy car. Yesterday I got the idea to try and design an air powered motor which can later be incorporated in all kinds of applications.

I'm not going to explain the principle as the animated GIF in this link explains it perfectly:

animatedengines.com/co2.shtml

As I have only completed my design work today I haven't yet had a chance to print it and look for any flaws. Also for the sake of easily printing all the parts the design might be slightly over complicated. It is however fairly small (6.28cc capacity) and therefore all parts "should" print straight and square.

One major feature of my design is that multiple motors can be daisy-chained to form a larger multi-cylinder motor.

So far the only thing missing is a 3mm wrist-pin connecting the piston to the con-rod.

As this is a work in progress I do not know what the clearances are and therefore how freely this will turn once assembled

This is a parametric design for a centrifugal fan. I wanted one that could take a knock or two to blow air into my forge with, so I designed one with parametric wall thickness, fan clearance, diameter, height, output nozzle and inlet hole diameter etc. It can be printed entirely without support material and the two halves are held together with 3xNo.8 screws.

The sample fan is 70mm in diameter and 45mm high. It uses a small 12V motor I salvaged, but can easily be modified (physically or programmatically) to suit a range of motors.

The forge now has an RP'd 110mm diameter blower, and that blows plenty of air into the tuyere. The motor I chose does not have a very high RPM. It can only just reach white heat with one fan, but does not melt even in PLA due to the high airflow. A much faster motor on a smaller printed blower produces a higher flow, so I'm sure I can get more out of it later.

If you want one with a handle on, see thingiverse.com/thing:8096

I use this on my HHO generator as a fire backdraft protection.
it needs to be waterproof... i used acetone to get it airtight.

Usage:
fill half with water...
Inlet is on the side. Outlet on top.

This is a human powered air horn!

After seeing some kids playing with a little air plane powered by compressed air from a soda bottle, I decided to see if I could make a laser cuttable version of such a motor.

This is not a very powerful or efficient motor, but it is a fully working printable ("cuttable"?) air vane motor. My next goal will be to make a full printable bottle-powered park-flyer.

A video of the motor in action: youtube.com/watch?v=reaB0R9ALHs

More on air vane motors:
hydraulicspneumatics.com/200/TechZone/FluidPowerAcces/Article/True/6422/TechZone-FluidPowerAcces

Matt made a version for 3D printers. You can find it here: thingiverse.com/thing:620