This is a template for creating an Arduino LED matrix 3x3. It's easily expanded if you want to make a larger matrix.

Same as thingiverse.com/thing:14742 but for aluminum extrusion, like the MendleMax.

This is a silly string booby trap--it clips onto a can of silly string, and if someone comes within ~10 inches of it, it'll fire a blast of silly string at them.

Just a simple case for holding an Arduino plus a shield. I am using this to mount the electronics for my DrawBot-to-be.

Wanted something to hold a Uno on the laptop while in the hackspace.
Idea occurred after losing all the bits between the cushions of the sofa and getting tangled in wires attempting to eat pizza. Lost original files, so re drew it. This “should” fit the Uno...

LED light Guide

This will fit on a standard LED.

Any image can be added to the light guide and the image will light up when the LED is ON.

Similar to a small edge lit sign.

It's a real-world question mark block! Will it contain coins or a power up? Ok, well, neither actually - just some custom electronics designed to make the bottom capacitive-touch sensitive. When you punch - er, touch - the bottom, the light toggles on and off and plays the classic "coin" noise. Once in while, though, you might find that you get something... extra.

Check out this video of the lamp in action: youtube.com/watch?v=J05lAg8_1zY

I designed this in OpenSCAD and cut it out of several colors of acrylic. I'm going to post the scad file as well as the Eagle PCB design and the firmware once I have cleaned those up a little.

In the meantime, if you must have one, you can buy a kit from our Etsy store: etsy.com/listing/90652319/super-mario-inspired-touch-sensitive

It's a real-world question mark block! Will it contain coins or a power up? Ok, well, neither actually - just some custom electronics designed to make the bottom capacitive-touch sensitive. When you punch - er, touch - the bottom, the light toggles on and off and plays the classic "coin" noise. Once in while, though, you might find that you get something... extra.

Check out this video of the lamp in action: youtube.com/watch?v=J05lAg8_1zY

I designed this in OpenSCAD and cut it out of several colors of acrylic. I'm going to post the scad file as well as the Eagle PCB design and the firmware once I have cleaned those up a little.

In the meantime, if you must have one, you can buy a kit from our Etsy store: etsy.com/listing/90652319/super-mario-inspired-touch-sensitive

An arduino-controled remote control car.

FOBO is an autonomous, statically balanced walking robot. Yes, this one actually walks under its own power! It is the fourth prototype from Project Biped (http://www.projectbiped.com).


A full overview (with source Blender files) can be found at the Project Biped FOBO website:

projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo

walking info:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/walking-cycle

more pictures of the actual robot:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/photos

FOBO avoiding obstacles:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/navigation

Controlling FOBO with a Kinect:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/kinect

A few months ago, my school was getting ready for a theater run of "The Little Shop of Horrors" and needed a tripod that could mount a video camera and be controlled from back stage wirelessly via radio. The whole idea behind the thing was that at the end of the play, when the plant achieved sentience, a camera, hidden inside of the huge plant, would look around at the audience and pick-out one member of the audience to devour.

I was most dismayed to find out that junior year of high school is not the most forgiving time to be trying to bang-out a completed, complicated, reliable device involving software, electronic and mechanical hardware as a one-man development team. A student needs more than 4 hours of sleep every night to be able to at least attempt to hold an intelligent conversation once a day for the duration of the school week.

I did not manage to finish the actual mechanical part of the assembly in time for the run (it's missing the all-important camera mount) but managed to finish all of the gears, mounts, wiring, soldering, OpenScad and Arduino/XBee coding necessary to get the thing moving via remote with stepper acceleration, control smoothing and a wicked-fast 20ms communication delay (by comparison, most first-person shooters operate with a 80-200ms latency). So 1,199 finished lines of code later, I have to admit it's still a work in progress (at least the mechanical camera mounts are) but I'm hoping, at the very least, the XBee and Arduino code involved in the controller and receiver sketches might help out anybody who needs to have super-fast, reliable wireless data communication with error checking and ACK packets using an XBee in API mode.

I'll update this Thingiverse posting with a video of the whole contraption moving under its own power sometime later today once I've had a chance to trim and upload the video.

The latest current source files for the Arduino and XBee powered electronics and the parametric gears can be found at their respective Github repositories here: (for the Arduino code)
github.com/xtremd/XbeeRemoteCameraRig
and here: (for the OpenScad code)
github.com/xtremd/Parametric-Openscad-Tripod-Mount

If anyone has any questions about my code or my tripod, just drop me a quick comment below and I'm sure a bunch of people (including me) will be able to help you out.

-XtremD

I recently built the Ninja CNC kit from CNCSNAP.com. They recommend you use a fan to cool the board but they don't include a fan or an enclosure. So it bought a "thunderblade" 80mm blue led fan from radio shack and designed this enclosure for the board. I didn't feel like designing fastener attachments for the top-base connections so I just heat welded them together.
Feel free to modify the design to use a different fan if you like.
Check out my other Upgrades for this kit.
thingiverse.com/thing:16749

Screws onto bottom of arduino and attaches 9V battery. useful for anything that should be self-powered. fits UNO, UNO SMD, Duemilanove, Diecimila, NG, most "full-size" clones, MEGA, MEGA 2560

still need to make screw holes bigger, but it should work right now if you drill them out to be the same size as the arduino (1/8")

Jimmy Bot is a Modular Lasercut Arduino Robot Platform designed to make prototyping robot designs quick easy and pain free!

It utilises Jimmy Rig D-Fasteners to hold together laser cut 6mm acrylic (or wood) pieces. D-Fasteners let you assemble your robot straight out of the laser cutter and are a joy to use, they won't crack the acrylic or pull out sideways like conventional T-slots. You can buy them here: thebeehive.net.au/products/jimmy-rigs.

This design is easily customised to create custom mounting plates for all manner of sensors and electromechanical components.

This is an accessory attachment for the Arduino mount is made previously: thingiverse.com/thing:14742

The 3D printer Galileo is a 3d printer open source .It' s a derivated work from the model of the RepRap Prusa from which the movement of the axes X, Y, Z but have been substantial changes that have allowed achieve greater print area and a lower cost of implementation

Indice

1 Index
2 The Premises
2.1 Bigger Dimension
2.2 Cheaper Structure
2.3 Open Design
3 Benefits of the model:
4 Videos



The Premises

The RepRap Prusa has an intuitive design and a system of simple and easy assembly, the plastic parts that make up the structure are easy to handle and require no great difficulty in mounting them with the mechanical structure, and allow to obtain results even without linear bearings and other benefits . The final structure is solid and makes it easy to transport thanks to low weight.

Bigger Dimension

The first step was to increase the size of printable area.La structure has been developed in such a manner so as to have more space to print.

Cheaper Structure

Another significant change has affected the mechanical structure of the new printer.It was find a new structure that could use a smaller number of pieces and always have a solid one .Similar to the mechanical also plastic parts have also been modified where possible or completely renovated. all this has led to savings in economic terms but also in terms of time required to assemble the printer itself

Open Design

The structure of the new printer is made to have an open design that allow subsequent changes in every part, also the X-cart which moves the extruder-it was so designed as to be universal and can be used with any type of extruder .The 'print area is easily accessible for a heated bed or in order to analyze the subject in print a


Benefits of the model:
Quick and easy to assemble Model
Spare plastic Intuitive: easy to assemble and print
Number less than threaded rods
Number less than smooth bars
Amount less hardware
Belts shorter
Open Design
Extruder in view
X-Cart is compatible with all types of extruders available
Printing area easily accessible
Print the objects in view

Sorry for my English...
Best Regards
Lorenzo


Some Videos:
youtube.com/watch?v=0Q-ClmwHfTU&feature=player_embedded

youtube.com/watch?v=Nd-upXvIbSo&feature=player_embedded

This is my own design quadcopter; 4x4 central station with 4 sections, expandable to fit more sensors, cameras, etc. Has no landing gear for the time being. Can be printed or CNC'd, although I have none of these tools. (Trolled... hehe) Makerbots/other desktop printers will not be able to make this.

Well... looks like Thingiverse doesn't like rendering my files. Oh well worked in Solidworks 2011.

And also, Solidworks Assemblies translate into a bunch of parts in STL, so I guess you'll just have to wing it if you want to put it together. Shouldn't be hard, though. Tell me if I'm missing anything.

EDIT wow those are some UGLY stl renders.

This part is used to mount accessories or additions to the scoutbot(http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13042).

One blank robot -- Designs for a simple 80's style robot. Currently setup to cut with a band saw and drill press - but easily changed in Inkscape.

Parts -
- Plywood body
- 5 servo motors (2 are continuous)
- Arduino 1
- Batteries
- A little servo board

Thanks for looking!!

I have been working on a makerbot that is controlled by the adafruit motor shield. I made all the parts and wooden pieces by hand using a saw. Once i had all the wooden pieces I put it together and added 2 nema 17 stepper motors for the x and y axis. I used a parallax continous rotation servo for the z axis. The code isbased on some code by Max Livesey and I edited it so it will 3d print instead of ploting. I built the whole thing for around 250 us dollars.
(it is using an arduino mega so analog pins can be used with an extruder board i built)

I didn't find any Arduino MEGA 2560 (& RAMPS) mounting for the bars of a Prusa Mendel that I liked so....I made my own. I've been trying to get rid of all the wood on my Prusa Mendel (Makergear) and this was the last piece to replace. Hope someone finds the useful.

Features:

Simple design, but somewhat pretty
Has a side with holes (7mm apart) that can be used for accessories or to zip tie cables.
Can be installed anywhere, bar clamps are only on one side.
Somewhat parametric, you can change some stuff in the openSCAD.

A co-worker was talking about an idea for a wrist-mounted computer she was thinking about. I saw thingiverse.com/thing:1748 provided a decent platform for the idea. We just needed something to attach to it.

Using jag's dovetail library (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10269) and a bit of experimentation, I made this. The dovetail is long enough to work with either one or two of the wrist mounts.

The modification is just to attach the case to the arduino by bolts

In this case, the SCAD code of the Scout printbot has been converted into OOML code ( iearobotics.com/oomlwiki/doku.php ). At the same time, the ScoutMega printbot derives from the MiniSkyBot ( thingiverse.com/thing:7989 ) by Obijuan ( thingiverse.com/obijuan ). The castor wheel in the rear part is the same as in the MiniSkyBot, but the OOML version ( thingiverse.com/thing:12198 ) by avalero ( thingiverse.com/avalero ) was employed.

Here is a small video (in spanish): youtube.com/watch?v=821ua42vHks

The main design is the same as the Scout printbot, but an additional front bumper has been included in order to mount on it a gripper. The gripper selected is a modification of the one posted in ( thingiverse.com/thing:2415 ).

The electronics consists on an Arduino Mega board and 3 Futaba S3003 servos (for both wheels and gripper).

In the attached files, all the source code is provided: SCAD files and STL. There is algo a C++ file in which it is the code of the chassis using the OOML.

Additional things:
To assemble everything, you will need at least:
- 11 M3x8mm screws.
- 4 M3x20mm screws.
- 14 M3 nuts.
- 2 O-ring: 50x3 mm.
- 1 O-ring 16x3 mm.

Realize that for the gripper I just used some plastic wire. You can do this as well but if you want to use screws (for a more robust coupling), you will need:

- 6 M3x6mm screws.
- 6 more M3 nuts.

TO DO:
- The gipper is too big according the size of the chassis. This make the printbot unstable sometimes.

- Change the design to make it easier to assemble.

- Improve the gripper anchorage. Right now it is very difficult to assemble.

I'm sorry about this issues. That is what happens when an electronic design mechanics :)

This is a tool for bending lead of resistors and other components. Every line has a standard size, each slot is .05″ longer than the next and has radiused edges to make perfect bends without stressing the leads. It can be used to bend the leads of 1/2 watt resistors, 1/4 watt resistors, and diodes.
Esta pieza es una herramienta para doblar patillas de resistencias. Cada hueco es multiplo de 2,54mm (el espaciado estandard de componentes). Puede ser usado para doblar resistencias de 1/2w ,1/4w o diodos.

These are two designs for Arduino carrier boards that you can mount an Arduino, breadboard, and battery holder(s) of your choice to. These are great if you want to run your Arduino project without being tethered to a wall or a PC and are great for Arduino classes, as you don't have to have a PC or wall wart for each participant.

The smaller version has space for a 400 point breadboard and your choice of either a 9-volt or AA/AAA battery pack. The larger version with space for a 830 point with both a 9-volt and AA/AAA battery pack (great for applications where you want to run servos or other devices off a separate power supply from you Arduino).

These are the laser cutting plans for the chassis for my ArduRoller balance bot.

Specs:
Chassis: laser cut 2.7mm bamboo ply (Ponoko); various M2.5 machine screws from Amazon; Instamorph low-melt-point thermoplastic to fill in the gaps.
Brains: 1 x Arduino Uno
Motor driver: 1 x Sparkfun Ardumoto
Motors: Sparkfun 2 x 24:1 gearmotor
Wheels: 1 set Sparkfun 70mm -- repaired with Instamorph after they cracked around the axle
Gyro: 1 x ADXRS613 (Sparkfun breakout) mounted at the axis of rotation
Accelerometer: 1 x ADXL203CE (Sparkfun breakout) mounted at the axis of rotation
Batteries: 2 x 3.7V Li-poly 850MAh (Sparkfun)

I've shared the code and assets at github.com/fasaxc/ArduRoller.

Video is at flickr.com/photos/fasaxc/5944650602/

The Skymega is an electronic board for programming printbots. It is open source hardware, designed with the open source tools Kicad (we have named this kind of hardware as open source squared). It is based on the ATmega microcontrollers, so it is Arduino compatible.

This board has been specifically designed for building modular robots or mini mobile robots. Currently we are using it at Universidad Carlos III de Madrid for the following printbots:

* Miniskybot: thingiverse.com/thing:7989
* Repy1 1.1 modules: thingiverse.com/thing:13442
* F-track: thingiverse.com/thing:13298
* Orugator: thingiverse.com/thing:8559

Features:
* Small in size
* Easy to build by the students
* ON/OFF switch
* Arduino compatible
* Connection up to 8 servos
* I2C bus
* 1 Test button
* 2 Test led

Authors
* Juan Gonzalez-Gomez (Obijuan)
* Andrés Prieto-Moreno
* Itziar Lima
* Ricardo Gomez

More information on this board (repository, images, instructions) can be found on this link (in Spanish): iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=SkyMega

So I got into doing Renaissance acting this year and got to thinking, what would it be like if you had a real life dragon? Here is as far as I've gotten so far with that thought, the eventual plan is to make this dragon attonomous, but at the moment he is controlled with duel sliding joysticks that control the height and rotation of his head, how wide his wings are spread and the angle of the wings (I'll add in controls for the tail later). The joysticks will eventually be replaced with IR sensors and an accelerometer, but I'm still working on those baby steps.

The model does use a derivative of the dragon head: thingiverse.com/thing:1466

Any help with the programming would be greatly appreciated.

We designed this to hold the Linux MiniEMBWiFi board to be placed on the WildThumper chassis or in the VEX robot chassis.

It has a small space for a Sparkfun logic level converter needed because we need to connect the 3.3v serial port to a 5v arduino.

Here are the links of the hardware I speak above:
MiniEMBWiFi -> robosavvy.com/store/product_info.php/products_id/1757
WildThumper -> robosavvy.com/store/product_info.php/products_id/1928
VEX Protobot Robot Kit -> robosavvy.com/store/product_info.php/products_id/1770