The library paratslot.scad allows you to create parametric tslot and accessories.
even mix them in a single render.
Make tslot of any dimension.
30x30, 30x60, 20x40...

This was designed for a CNC limit microswitch.

Adapt your lovejoy connector to your Nema 17 5mm rod motor. I was sent the wrong one so took the opportunity to create the Love Joy 5mm coupler for the World. Fits perfectly on the 5mm Nema 17 Stepper motors. Fits a M6 Nut and Screw.

Download V2 Version.** Alot Stronger than V1

This is a rail mounted Endstop for use with Makerbot v1.2 Mechanical Endstops on a 16mm linear rail. Simple, solid construction. The Perfect way to stop your 3D printer from destroying itself is to add this Endstop mount. Not only does the mechanical switch turn off the motor's movement but the mount doubles as a physical stopper.

Mount Just Updated* 2/8/12
-Stronger
-Recess for Solder points

Designed 16mm Rail clamp for any custom CNC or 3D printer applications. Holes for hardware are 6mm across. Simple and solid contruction for a clean finish.

This is my 3rd version of printable LM8UU bushings.

Prusa suggested to me that putting some spring/give in them could be a good idea, so I gave it a go.

They're more than strong enough to handle the forces they get subjected to, and as an added bonus they're far less likely to crack your X-ends when you insert them since they'll happily compress a little.

I replaced a set of my original bushings with these, they're still wearing in but seem to work great so far. It certainly solved the chatter problem I had!

PLEASE NOTE: ABS is not a suitable material for bushings. It's too soft so it has lots of friction and wears quickly. These printed in ABS would be a novelty only, not a useful part.

PLA works well, as will any other hard plastics.

I recently built the Ninja CNC kit from CNCSNAP.com. They include some pretty good harware but I wanted my machine to be able to cut heavier material. So i began making upgrades to the machine. I replaced the laser cut motor mounts with HEAVY DUTY 3D printed ones that are probably a little "over" built. But stronger is better right? I also designed a very robust tool holder that fits the motor they supply with the kit. I love this tool holder, it works great. Note: you will need to drill a hole in the end of the clamp to bolt it together. I recommend a small diameter machine screw. Next I stiffened up the guide rods with a set of support claps on each rod. I made them slightly under sized so you will need to run a 1/4" drill through them. My "Y" axis coupler broke so I replaced it with thing 7059. I can't find the corner bracket file I used to stiffen up the frame but I'll post it when I do. I also bolted together my "Z" carriage because it wanted to split with putting the tool holder one it.
If you have any questions or want me to make other upgrade/ design changes just let me know.
Thanks and I hope you put these files to good use.

youtube.com/watch?v=GYD6TE_If6U

Plastic carving of Deadmau5 made with the iModela.(The plastic is 1.4mm thick)

I recently built the Ninja CNC kit from CNCSNAP.com. They recommend you use a fan to cool the board but they don't include a fan or an enclosure. So it bought a "thunderblade" 80mm blue led fan from radio shack and designed this enclosure for the board. I didn't feel like designing fastener attachments for the top-base connections so I just heat welded them together.
Feel free to modify the design to use a different fan if you like.
Check out my other Upgrades for this kit.
thingiverse.com/thing:16749

I recently built the Ninja CNC kit from CNCSNAP.com. They recommend you use a fan to cool the board but they don't include a fan or an enclosure. So it bought a "thunderblade" 80mm blue led fan from radio shack and designed this enclosure for the board. I didn't feel like designing fastener attachments for the top-base connections so I just heat welded them together.
Feel free to modify the design to use a different fan if you like.
Check out my other Upgrades for this kit.
thingiverse.com/thing:16749

A Japanese-style spherical ice mold, as suggested by youtube.com/watch?v=cuwJEN3VG-Y and documented at blog.ussjoin.com/2012/01/making-the-mold.html. Made from aluminum, you just heat it under running water, then insert a block of ice: it simultaneously melts and freezes the ice to form a perfect, seamless sphere.

it's a 3d Replica of the orgininal Galdio Romano of the Ancient Rome
The size of the blade is about 40 cm
It's Strenght enought to engage a real battle!! XDXD
the File Impungatura is a netfab fixed version of the Grip of this: thingiverse.com/thing:10392

Stand for holding music, papers, tablet or other such things

This piece is meant to be used to allow smooth linear motion in a light duty cnc or printer.
I designed this based on a method I saw somewhere on the web for mounting 608 bearings to a piece of angled aluminum. If i remember where i saw it i will update with a link. The idea is that you turn a square tube 45 degrees, and this will roll along the top of it. You could also use a piece of angle iron too, laying on its hypotenuse. There are mounting holes that allow you to mount something on top of it. I have not printed this yet as I am still awaiting a heated build platform. Comments are welcome as this is my first thing.
Image is of the Angle aluminum version. The advantage of printing this is you get precisely positioned holes, and a flat surface on top with mounting holes.

I made a balans chair referring to Varier Variable balans.
varierfurniture.com/Collections/Human-instruments/Variable-balans-R/


You have to prepare
- boards 18mm thick, over 530*500mm
- a CNC milling machine capable of cutting over 530*500mm

This is a Pencil holder made of methacrylate. It have 3 pieces but you do not need glue.

Se trata de un portalapices hecho de metacrilato. Esta formado por 3 piezas que encajan unas en otras, se puede montar y usar sin necesidad de pegamento.

This is a set of button boxes for use on large CNC machines for emergency stop (E-STOP) applications.

The spindle control is for passing through power to a router, so it has a power switch and an easily press-able emergency stop. The two other boxes go back to the PC and are used to stop motion on the X, Y & Z axes.

The electronic parts are all available from Altronics in Australia, but I'm sure other vendors have compatible stuff. Check their datasheets to see if the mountings are the same or just delete and add a new one.
S3228 - Rocker switch , Neon. (27.5mm by 13.6mm square mounting)
S0820 - E-stop buttons, (16mm dia hole.)
P8241 - GPO outlet, flush mountable. (most of a 33.5 mm dia circular hole and 4.5mm dia offset hole)

The box designs came from here. Check it out, well worth the $12.
frag-den-spatz.de/shop/boxgenerator/boxdesigner.html

This is a frame for a quadrocopter made out of 2mm birch plywood. It is designed for manufacturing using a 3-axis CNC mill or an Laser-Cutter.
The frame was designed in XMAS 2010 and has successfully tested by over 20 builders during the last year.

A full description of the project can be found here:
flugwiese.de/index.php/projekte/41-schaummodelle/112-murkelcopter
(unfortuneately all in German, but a lot more pictures and links to english pages)

Why is it called the "Murkelcopter" ? Well, the name was given to it by my daughter when she saw the first prototype of the frame

this is the frist CNC i have designed and build, well, i got that idea to build a CNC, when i started the design, and reding about CNC's i come a cross the REPRAP and fald in love, i have uses this to cut some depron for RC, new i'm working on making it a repstrap, by adding a reprap extruder, and using RAMPS electronics.


sorry about spelling errors, but i'm a little dyslexic, and english is my third language

This is PCB cutting test for iModela.
This is the pattern for the 32pin IC(e.g. ATmega328) to convert from 0.8mm to 25.4mm pitch.
(However, this is not practical.)

The width of the pattern (on the data) is min 0.3mm.
Between the pattern and the pattern is min 0.5mm.
I used a PCB milling software "WINSTER PCB for iModela"
a-t.co.jp/winstarpcb_imode.html

Gerver data were created using PCBE.
vector.co.jp/soft/winnt/business/se056371.html



"iModela" is the 3D cutting machine manufactured by Roland DG.
This machine can cut the size of 86x55x26mm.
This can move the cutter 0.01mm intervals.
icreate.rolanddg.com/iModela/Global/English/index.html/

This is disposable chipsticks cutting test for iModela.
The size of the moai is about 2x5x2mm.
Moai is borrowed from the following model.
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=9c78d10e8b0a918be3c2af5d2605b63f&prevstart=0


"iModela" is the 3D cutting machine manufactured by Roland DG.
This machine can cut the size of 86x55x26mm.
This can move the cutter 0.01mm intervals.
icreate.rolanddg.com/iModela/Global/English/index.html/

For the African Innovation Fair innovafrica.org/ I animated a bootcamp during one week where we built two CNC and learnt how to use them (with no previous experience ^^').

flickr.com/photos/watsdesign/sets/72157628262445069

We were able to make some stuff, like these keyrings for the participants. Now they are starting the first two FabLabs of Ouagadougou, Burkina and french-speaking Africa :)

Simulation of one of the first generated toolpaths : youtu.be/XR_jLPGzNcM

15.9mm mounting for push to fit self align bearings
there's a couple 4mm holes for attaching this to platform or what ever you want to use (30.9mm distance between the center of the holes)

I'm going to use this to mount platform to mendelmax, but you could use it to mount what ever you want.

I'll post pictures when I get this done.

There are two models, the difference is rounded corners in V2

A gear with the words "I TOLD YOU SO" displayed as holes through the top. My first upload to thingaverse, and I am still waiting for my printrbot to arrive.

Kinda, sorta a derivative. I couldn't get the other one to print right, so I redesigned similar to a commercial design.
The links are 1 inch between pins.
See the video for assembly and fit.
Designed for 3D printers, but would be useful on other CNC machines.
youtube.com/watch?v=1FNSJK4WnnM

This will allow you to switch out the pedal on the speed controller of the G9928 flex shaft grinder for a speed dial. This is another thing that came out of me working toward my own CNC machine design, since I'd like fine grain control of the spindle speed but don't want to build a separate controller and obviously don't want to operate the pedal by hand (foot?).

The G9928 grinder (and similar grinders that appear to be from the same manufacturer) is reasonably priced and is more powerful, more versatile, lighter (at least the tool head part), and easier to mount compared to most other rotary tools. The only downside other than having to convert the speed controller to dial operation is the fact that the tool head has a little bit if play in it. Not a lot, but more than I'd like to see in my final spindle setup, so I'm working on addressing that as well.

This is a simple, yet handy, little holder for my collets. It is adapted to my Kress collets which is mounted on my CNC.

If you need two drive two steppers on a single axis (useful for some of the newer RepRap derivatives and some other CNC setups), this board allows you to drive two stepper controllers from a single output. You can use it with controllers that use the standard MakerBot style 6 or 10 pin connectors, making it compatible with older RepRap drivers and all newer stepper controllers that are compatible with MakerBot hardware.

These were made for a modular CNC setup that I'm currently developing. I've got a few spares if anybody's interested in grabbing a splitter or two.

This fits the MXL belts found in many junk flatbed scanners. The 5mm bore fits most NEMA 17 stepper motors. MXL belts can also be sourced from Mcmaster-Carr. mcmaster.com/#mxl-series-timing-belts/=f8ej07

Here's my standard 100x160mm sized PCB heated bed. Since I couldn't find a heated bed this size I designed my own. If you supply it with 12V it get's about 125 deg. C.

I also made a manual temp. controller for it using a 555 timer ic, because my printer supply couldn't give more power to also supply the heated bed. The temp. is controlled by the 555 timer duty cycle, you can change the temperature turning the potentiometer.

More info about it at jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/11/21/555-timer-controlled-heated-print-bed/