Generate it in any size.

Has an experimental feature to include an extra set of inner walls to protect the hinges from the contents. By drawing the hinge lines in a zig zag pattern, plotting time is reduced significantly.

This is a small tray that can be used to hold Dremel bits. It has notches and stubs to clip several of them together.

Here's a sugar (or salt) bowl with a lid and soon a spoon.
I am marking this as "in progress" as I have neither printed this thing yet, or designed the spoon. But I'm running out of time to make this my thing-a-day for Saturday, so here we are.
Be careful about storing food in ABS. I'm sure that there's not much that could go wrong here, especially since this is for dry food, but I can't guarantee there won't be any possibility of contamination. Use your best judgement.

-Edit- I have replaced the original version of the bowl, since it had a fillet on the bottom that doesn't print well without support. The new version has a 45 degree chamfer.

-Edit- I have added a new version of the bowl with a chamfer on its rim. This allows the lid to sit more comfortably. I have also uploaded a spoon for this bowl ( thingiverse.com/thing:17156 )

No, not that kind of pot. The kind you grow things IN! This hydroponics pot has a grid at the bottom to hold growing medium (perlite, vermiculite,pummice, clay beads etc.) in. If the plant's roots take control of the pot, these ones are made of Diamond Age Solutions' Ivory PLA so the whole lot can go in the compost bin when the growing season is over!

No, not that kind of pot. The kind you grow things IN! This hydroponics pot has a grid at the bottom to hold growing medium (perlite, vermiculite,pummice, clay beads etc.) in. If the plant's roots take control of the pot, these ones are made of Diamond Age Solutions' Ivory PLA so the whole lot can go in the compost bin when the growing season is over!

My girlfriend challenged me to make a hand soap dispenser that is cooler than anything we could buy at Crate & Barrel (or similar stores). The result, after a number of design iterations, is this bottle which now inhabits our bathroom.

This dispenser is designed to reduce waste in a number of ways. First, it is easily refillable, and so can be used for many years. Second, as the pump is turned, liquid soap spills from the spout back into a hole in the bottle, thus recycling any drips. Third, this design makes it easy to get as much or as little soap as you want, while commercial soap pumps often dispense more soap than necessary with a single squeeze.

Deliver up to 6 Spices onto your Meals like a Boss!

Saw a pic from a asian desinerpage with a similar approach.. and designed my own rightaway.


Wont Fit a ToM but try scaled down.

all need some outer support.

A 2-part, hinged, bolt-on holder/fixture for affixing a small packaged sensing device (in this case a custom WIMU) to a round shaft or bar allowing it to be easily attached to golf clubs, tennis racquets, pipes, cylindrical bar stock, walking sticks etc.

I do a lot of shopping at IKEA, whether it’s for disposable apartment furniture or cheap mechanical parts to use for DIY projects. Whenever I leave the store I always end up with a pocket full of those little golf pencils they have all over the store. I’m not a collector, it just happens.

Well I’ve decided they deserve a better life. One where they are used and not ignored because of their size in the bottom of a drawer. Time to liberate my miniature writing implements.

I've created a golf pencil dispenser inspired by the straw dispensers you see in restaurants. It also has a lid to keep it tidy and holes for screws on the back so it can be wall mounted.

More info and photos are available on my blog at:
thenewhobbyist.com/2012/01/golf-pencil-dispenser/

This drawers are completely parametric, the stl provided are just an example.
All the structure can be mounted without glue. A special clip is provided to lock the structure, and is quite simple to unlock if needed.

Please Flattr if you find it useful!

Full credit to Typhlosaurus (http://www.thingiverse.com/Typhlosaurus) who made his coffin design and inspired me to make this derivative!

Use this little box to keep your favourite minifig in your pocket (if you are 5, or 35yrs old it doesn't matter!) The lid snaps tight and add a piece of string between the loops. I added these loops so I wouldn't be constantly searching for lost lids:)

I added pegs to keep the minifig in place for display purposes.

Thinking of adding sword and weapon holders inside later.

If you need to steam just one edamame, one bao-zi, one pizza roll, or defrost a frozen rodent to feed a reptile pet you need this steamer basket.

First, I want to apologize to the trees they deserved better than this. Carpentry is clearly not my forte.

Over at I Heart Engineering we have been scaling up production of some of our products store.iheartengineering.com/I-Heart-Engineering-Tripod-Adapter/dp/B004ET5VLG using MakerBot ToM #5667 "The Future". However the ABS fumes can be somewhat unpleasant and not everyone enjoys hearing stepper motors all day long so we threw together this box like structure. Another benefit of the box is that it cuts down on drafts and helps ensure that large parts turn out flat. Finally one nice feature is that the door stays open once opened, the door also closes. The primary downside of the current design is that the printer can not be removed without unscrewing the side.

Made my own...

I aimed for a better waterproofness.
My backpack isnt the dryest place to be for gadjets.
i use bathroom silicone for a tight seal. i also had a old Silicone USB Plug in my parts bin that fits right into the socket.

This is my torch holder. I designed it to compliment my Parametric Battery Dispenser (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15149) and it mounts to the inside of a cupboard door for convenient access.

The design is sized to fit a LED Lenser M7 Torch but is highly parametric so can be used with just about any torch. I am sure that it could be used to hold many other tools as well.

I designed it to use double sided sticky foam to attach to the inside of a cupboard door but I have also included options that create mounting holes either horizontally or vertically. This as well as the mounting plate being fully parametric (You can choose between two corner styles as well), means I am confident that the design will suit many tastes.

The clasp part of the holder is also parametric so you can choose a thickness and also opening size that suits your materials and printer capabilities. The default values work well printed in PLA at 35% infill, 3 skins. This seems to be flexible enough that the torch can be pulled through the clasp without damaging the finish of the torch or stressing the plastic. YMMV

In the pipeline are a host of other door mounting fittings, I intend to organise all my most often used tools in this manner.

Out with the old reel, and in with a new one! Some problems that come with printing parts using the last bit of plastic in a reel have been bugging me for a while, as it's usually difficult to judge whether something that you want to print will use up all the remaining plastic, and how it does so.

You can take an approach of printing something so large that there isn't quite enough plastic to complete it, and the object gets truncated, but there are very few basic printer parts with a large unnecessary section at the top for your uncertainty to fall within, so most of the time one can't be sure if the printer will run out of plastic before finishing a crucial section.
You could also run a few print jobs of very small parts, but then you either have a significant length of waste plastic at the end, a final print of small parts that may not be useable if you run out halfway through, or you end up printing one of Zeno's paradoxes to try and avoid either of those fates.

I've tried to develop something that solves the first option, while always producing something useful at the end, so long as you're within a very wide printing margin. I'd say this print comes with an element of a nice surprise in terms of what size your box is, but you might want to check on the print as it runs out of filament, and stop it on a layer just before the loose end goes past the filament drive, so that you don't end up with a mess or have the extruder drive grinding away at its idler for a while.

Alternatively, if you have some awesome ninja printing skills, you might be able to get a new reel of plastic on whatever spool you use, in time to feed the new starting loose end in directly behind the old end without stopping the print. However, if you could manage that without hiccups in nozzle output, then you wouldn't even need this thing to begin with.

These handy trays can be used to sort small fasteners, jewellery, fishing tackle (all the same really) or similar bits, with a lid that gets completed at the start of the print.

Gadget freaks need batteries... Lots of batteries!

So the sensible thing to do is to use a rechargeable batteries and to keep a stock of charged batteries ready for action.

If you like me keep your charged batteries in a drawer or box, you will know that they roll around, short one another out and of course you never have any idea as to which batteries have been charged first and last. Add in a few other items, i.e. a set of keys or two, an old spare mobile phone and charger and a few favourite take-out menus and finding those batteries during for instance a power cut becomes problematic also.

I was not happy with this and put my mind to coming up with a solution. Well here it is...

The Parametric Cylindrical Battery Dispenser will create a vertical storage solution for all your cylindrical battery storage needs. It contains dimensions to create AA and AAA sized dispensers but as it is near fully parametric, you can create in theory a dispenser for just about any cylindrical battery. Limitations of your 3d Printer though are likely to restrict you to smaller battery sizes.

The Parametric Cylindrical Battery Dispenser prints in two halves to make it as easy as possible to print (little to no overhangs). I found the best results were to use 50% infill and 3 additional shells on my Prusa using PLA, YMMV.

The Openscad file will generate several different styles of dispenser depending on the options you pick:

1. The simplest design that comprises just two runners. This was my original design and I have printed it. It works well enough, but I found it to be a little flimsy when secured to a vertical surface.

2. The tabbed version (main photo) which is the version I decided on using for my own battery dispensers. This is has nice broad mounting tabs at the rear of the dispenser that can be sized to match double sided sticky foam. Perfect for mounting on the inside of cupboards etc.

3. The mounting plate version (untested). This version has a mounting plate that is split into two halves, Theoretically, it should make it easier to space the two halves of the dispenser to each other but it uses more plastic and I don't think its as handsome as the others

4. Spare runners. (unfinished) These are functional, but only match the simplest design of dispenser. As I can get a reasonably sized dispenser to print on my Prusa (big enough to hold 8 AA batteries)I don't really need this now. I left it in as an option though.

5. Calibration piece. There is also an option to create a small segment of one half of the dispenser. Print this to double check that the dimensions you set print well on your printer

There are also options to add mounting holes if you are using either the tabbed or back-plated styles of dispenser. The mounting holes are nominal values right now, so you will have to set the variables to values that match your screw dimensions and printer.

I am marking this item as finished as it exceeds all my cylindrical battery vertical storage requirements but you may have other improvements you wish to make. If so I apologise for the code, I am positive it could be better optimised.

This is the same item as hippiegunnut's thingiverse.com/thing:12307, tweaked very slightly with an optional lid added.

This is a replacement box for the game Hive ( gen42.com/hive ).

I like the game, but I don't like the zippered carrying pouch that they include in the box. So here's my alternative.

The box is large enough to hold all the pieces from the base game.

OpenSCAD has default values for the number of faces in its representations of spheres. When the command "sphere(r=2);" is entered a 16 sided polyhedron is formed that looks like two seven sided pill boxes stuck together. Pill_Box_01.stl is made from a portion of this 16 sided polyhedron. It has sloping sides, and while attractive, is difficult to print. Pill_Box_02.stl is a simpler box with seven vertical sides. It has room for a few more pills and is perhaps easier to print. Both boxes are labeled with the days of the week.

Two lids, held in place by a pin, are provided. One is a simple flat lid with a built in pin. The second lid has raised edges and uses a separate pin. Images of the lids are shown at the left. Code for the lid with pill pockets is included in lid_nice.scad.

The text comes from Inkscape dxf files. Information as to how this was done is included as comments in the scad files - see the Sunday module. There should be enough detail in the comments to reproduce the text files. The most important thing is to make sure that the text is centered. The rotate and translate commands in the text positioning modules require centered text. I used polymaker's "Inkscape OpenSCAD DXF Export",(thing:14221), to make the dxf files.

The openSCAD files that created the boxes and lids are available below. I've included comments which I hope will be helpful. It's easy to move the text around, to change from raised to indented text, or to leave the text off altogether. Changing to indented text, by moving the print statement from inclusion in a union statement to inclusion in a difference statement, might result in files which print more easily. I've added the dxf files zipped together, week_txt.zip. They take some time to create and are required if anyone wants to experiment with the openSCAD files.

One of the first things I printed was thingiverse.com/thing:1216

I thought it would be nice to hollow her out and make a shooter glass. It wasn't as easy as I thought it would be.

First I tried to subtract a scaled version from the original in openscad. Didn't work, no matter what I did there were always holes. Not wanting to give up I simply started subtracting parts of the scaled version before subtracting from the original. The results were better, but I still couldn't get a waterproof shell. Then I ran across this post by Christopher Lowe on Shapeways forum :http://www.shapeways.com/forum/index.php?t=msg&th=7000|

simple...
import in your model...

if it is water tight i suggest picking a poly and deleting it... making it un-watertight... something big enough though that it follows the rules about drainage holes...

assuming that you are using the new 2.6 there should be a panel on the right of the screen. in the headder hit the button that looks like a wrench- this is the modifier tab.

in the modifier pull down select add modifier and then select solidify... there are several options in there but there are a few things that you should remember...

you can type in the exact thickness that you want but you must make sure that the part that you are using has a scale of 1... this is easily certified by object- apply- scale.

also to be able to put in a specific distance the model needs to be set to metric or imperial... don't worry you can go back and forth with no problem...

finally blender has an stl exporter that works just fine... you don't even have to apply the modifier before exit...

--That worked a lot better. You can see some of the things I tried in the zip file.

tl;dr - The shape you need to subtract from a solid to make it hollow with even wall thickness is not always the same shape scaled down.

A friend asked for spool dimensions and I threw this together. Might as well share.
Note: these dimensions are taken from three 5 pound spools I bought from Ulimachine. My spools vary in width by a small amount.
There may be others.

My wife asked me to make some of these to keep the Saran Wrap off of her deviled eggs on the trip to relatives for Christmas.
This works like the little plastic thing in pizza boxes to keep the lid out of the cheese.
We used 4 per plate of eggs. Think tent poles.

The perfect ironic gift box - or not - judge them like Santa does!

A card holder for business cards or other advertising material that stands on a desk or table and has a recess for your logo.

polygonal cup like thing, works great as a tea light candle holder, or a pot for a plant, or just a plain ole cup..

I just built my ToM and I'm still experimenting with it. I made this enclosure for the safety cutoff switch on my ToM, because I don't like the way it looks just hanging there with wires running everywhere.

There are 2 parts to this enclosure, and they snap together (with some cleaning needed on my print (and most likely yours) even though I included a 0.05mm clearance all around the joining faces). No modification of the switch is required. The base simply replaces the 2 spacers. The top cap just snaps on & the LEDs slide right inside of the top cap.

NOTE: My design has "NORMAL" and "FAULT" engraved in the top of the case, in very small letters. This DID NOT show up in my print, and doesn't show up in the .STL file. I imagine the resolution of the lettering is too small for Skeinforge to handle? The engraved lettering "SAFETY CUTOFF" showed up just fine in my print... although since they were at the bottom of my print (with a raft), the bottoms of both parts warped & did not print very well (thus not shown in my photos, LOL). The insides of both parts look much better than the outsides. I don't think this is dues to design errors... I believe it to be in Skeinforge setting errors.

This design was based on digital caliper measurements of the Generation 4 cutoff switch. I designed it to require no modification to the MakerBot-supplied circuit-board, or any part of the ToM itself. I have not yet fitted my housing on my thermal safety cutoff switch, so PLEASE let me know if this design needs any changes. And I would also love to see any adaptations/modifications to this design, as well as photos of any successful builds of the unmodified object... or "thing".

Thanks!

P.S.--As of 12-31-2011, I still haven't mounted my Safety Cutoff Switch inside this housing, because I'm still not happy with the way it looks (tons of voids in the bottom halves of both pieces, which were both printed face-down (on a raft). I'm also still not happy with the overall quality of most of my prints. But I've posted a print as of today, to show you my print results.

Just what thingiverse needs, another box...

I see that fdavies created thingiverse.com/thing:635 a box with hinged lid 3 years ago.

I drew this one in OpenScad and it's parametric so you can scale it to the size you prefer.

I was going to use minkowski() to do the rounding on the top of the box, but my machine doesn't have the power to render it that way, so there's some code in there that isn't used and a lot of the files are ones I used while I was working and then discarded.

I haven't printed this yet, but I'm hoping to soon.

My son asked me for an X box for Christmas. Luckily with the Makerbot it was quite easy to make an X box for him. I cant wait to see his excited face on Christmas.

I made four of these music boxes as christmas gifts to my family. The PDF pattern was generated with a Processing script, which I wrote. I've included the script for reference, although you only need the PDF to produce copies of the box. Each box is laser cut from a single piece of 12x12 plywood.

Here's a video of my daughter on Christmas: youtu.be/n9I88Lt0zUw

The lid of the box contains an inlaid Hilbert curve, a kind of space-filling fractal. A more detailed Hilbert curve is etched into the bottom of the box. The sides of the box contain inlays or holes in the shape of the letter J, which is the first initial of each of my four family members.

The pieces of the box fit together like a puzzle. Each side contains a single letter J, which I dyed different colors, using food coloring. These could also have been left as holes, to make the box louder.

The crank hole is designed for a very common type of hand-cranked movement, of which Kikkerland is one manufacturer.