I wanted to "dock" my controllers, so I designed this. Works with wireless and wired controllers. Also you can change the end for a loop to hold the new wireless speed wheel.

The xbox controller shape has evolved to a very organical shape so I used modelling clay to get that shape and be able to measure a dock that will be stable and printable with ease.

As I don't charge the controllers in the console itself, it does not support the play & charge extension, but editable Sketchup file is attached.

Demo: youtu.be/jL5dLtU9Oj8

This is to help you be a better sniper, pilot or whatever game you play that you want to have faster movements and still be precise.

This thing snaps onto your PlayStation controller for more precise movements and aiming.

During use:
Set your sensitivity higher and make smaller joystick movements.

Wanted to upload the template I made when I bult my fire work controller.

More pictures of the one that I made can be found here:
instructables.com/id/Firework-Controller-Build/

Version 1.1 of the NBitWonder DC Motor Driver. This project is a simple dual-channel DC motor for robotics and other hobbyist projects. The project uses hand-solderable parts (no under-chip pads), and fits completely on a single-sided PCB, making it easy to print or fabricate using homebrew PCB methods. The board is designed to be cheap, with parts costing ~$10 in quantity 1 (without volume discounts).

The project was originally designed as drive electronics to be used in conjunction with Marc Raiser's Tank project: thingiverse.com/thing:6554 (Tank v2 thingiverse.com/thing:8080 is explicitly modified for use with this board). Design files are posted here, but for the most up-to-date documentation and technical data, refer to the project's github repository, which can be found here: github.com/NBitWonder/DCMotorController

The project is the result of hard work by members of the NBitWonder community. For more about us, and some of our other projects, check us out here: nbitwonder.com

I added Revars LCD mod wiki.makerbot.com/revarlcd-assembly to my cupcake and love it. After serching for a way to enclose my LCD and Keypad, I decided to make my own. So this is what I came up with. I hope others can use it as well. I highly recommend adding this mod to all makerbots. Not only does it allow you to print without a computer hooked up to your bot but it will only cost you about $70.00 to build.

First of all: All merits and credits and rights and everything else (including ownership of the files) goes to original authors - and reprap community.

Second of all: Versions here are the original files, only tweaked for toner transfer purposes.

These are some files for DIY pcbs with Toner Transfer, for Mendel.
Images for printing top bottom and silk are all 600 dpi.

More info on reprap.org/wiki/DIY_PCBs_double_sided_toner_transfer

* image file for ATX / ATX2 voltages takeout + UM232R footprint boards:
A4 file ready for transfer, 600 dpi. For ATX supply, the board allows access to all voltages without any modifications to the supply. The UM232R i made because it looks better on a proper board.

* stepper motor driver v3.0 for toner transfer +A4 layout: i never got time around to test this because i jumped to vers 3.3, but should work; nonetheless, use at your own risk

* stepper motor driver v3.3 for toner transfer: changed smd from 0805 to 1206; increased pcb size and spacings accordingly; some provisions(”just in case”): 7805 can be fitted with a small to radiator (totally not needed but i like the overkill) and can be moved around abit if needed; smd versions electrolitic capacitors could be fitted (for smd connect the vias nearby with bottom layer); alternative jumpers instead of the dip switch; alternative 0.100” pins connectors for motor; 2 opposite diagonal holes for an A3977 radiator (overkill heatsink higly recommended), and some holes underneath A3977 that are just something like chip vent; can use pots with pitch of 5/5mm also (besides 5/2.5mm);
-the version named Makerbot: has 6 pins idc and no min/max, as it was in the original file;
-the version named Mendel: has 10 pins idc and .100 min/max of 3 pins each for compatibility with current mendel Gen3 Electronics and specifically Mb v1.2
I dont think i was inspired in getting the right versions names, but i am always lacking inspiration :))

* MB 1.2v: A4 file with tqfp pads edited, ready for transfer, 600 dpi: orientation of the board on the file would of been better horizontal, but then wouldnt fit one near the other. Check photo paper shrinkage (on vertical direction) with a real piece of .100 pins along their pads. Use good quality board materials for this one. RepRap modifications included (no longer compatible with other makerbot version): as per reprap.org/wiki/PCB_adaptions_for_Mendel the bridge near icsp header area, bridge(s) in atx connector area (leading to two traces in bottom layer to be combined on the top area of sd card - looks weird but its ok).

* added EC 2.2v: A4 file with tqfp pads edited, ready for transfer, 600 dpi. I did my own EC22 with a version that was almost at the size and spacings of the original file, and after doing it like that i decided it needs further spacing out and more severe cleaning up which i did in the file. As a result the images linked and the file are slightly different, and the last version should be better. However be warned, i did not tried this last version in real life myself, although i think it should work: use at your own risk, etc.

I use this for mounting Gen3 electronics for testing. There are mount points for a motherboard, extruder controller, and three stepper drivers.

This is a work in progress because I have yet to successfully program the ATMega 168.

This is the RepRap/MakerBot Extruder Controller, but without all the extruder-controlling bits. I would love to have a dedicated Unicorn Plotter controller board, but don't want to shell out $45 for one. The schematic just contains all the necessary parts for an Arduino to be controlled and powered over RS485 with two digital I/O ports.

The board file is experimental! It should work, but there's no guarantee.

By the way, this board costs around $20 (including components) to make, but only if it's priced in groups of 10.

This is a board that allows you to power a Mk4/Mk5 Plastruder, Heated Build Platform, etc. using external mosfets (and an optional relay). It can be directly connected to a stock Extruder Controller without any modifications. The input lines connect to the '-'(GND) terminals on the EC.

After already burning out one EC mosfet, and hearing that you might need to use a relay board to power the Mk5, I finally decided to design and build this board. The IRF520 mosfets I used in the prototype should be able to power a Mk5 Plastruder without any problems, and do it silently ;). They support PWM heating code as well, for better temperature management. All the outputs are protected with flyback diodes, so they can drive inductive loads as well (motors, other relays, etc).

Using this board to power the Plastruder/HBP reduces the current going through the mosfets on the Extruder Controller down to ~10ma per mosfet. Your EC mosfets should not heat up or burn out. If you do happen to burn out a mosfet on this board, it is a lot easier to fix/replace than the ones on the Extruder Controller.

It also reduces the current going through the Cat5 cable going into the EC, which could help reduce communication errors that can occur.

I've only tested this with my Mk4 Plastruder and HBP, but the current capability should be there to support a Mk5 (IRF520 = 10A). Since it is not part of the extruder controller, it is much easier to add other cooling solutions (i.e. fans), or even use other types of mosfets. I mounted large TO-220 heatsinks to the IRF520's to help keep them cool.

This is the first 'big' circuit I've designed, so there might be errors in the schematic. If there are errors, or if anyone know of ways to improve the design, please leave a comment.

Future plans/ideas:
1. Try using higher pull-up resistors (100K instead of 1.2K)
2. Add a master/emergency cutoff switch
3. Design/order/test an actual PCB

Yet another implementation of H.B.P. controller.
ex) thingiverse.com/thing:3538

If you want to work continuously to keep warm platform. This board holds platform temperature without extruder.

The board operates at 12V, H.B.P. Ver2 (and compatible one) to keep the 110 degree.Temperature can be set 40-130 degree.

prototype (in my blog):
fumi2kick.com/komekame/archives/805
fumi2kick.com/komekame/archives/824

I really wanted a fully integrated solution for controlling a heated build platform, as well as for communicating with the motherboard. I also wanted to be able to use the heated build platform as a controlled hot plate in order to do surface mount reflow. I created this board to have the ability to do both. I started this several months ago, but just now was able to gather all of the parts to build it and test it.

The board is meant to control mains voltage (i.e. 120/240 VAC), and therefore uses an optically-isolated triac that is protected by a fuse. Temperature feedback is through a Type-K thermocouple being read by a MAX6675. The whole system is controlled by an ATMega328 based Arduino in a TQFP package. Feedback to the user is through a 16x2 LCD and 3 buttons. The control circuitry is powered though the 5V line on a Molex connector off of an ATX power supply.

Features:
*Controls up to 1000W of AC mains power
* I2C Communications back to the motherboard
*Measurable temperature range of 0 to 1024 degrees C with 2 degree accuracy
*16x2 character LCD screen
*Up, Down, and Select buttons
*Programmed with USB-TTL cable or ISCP programmer
*Arduino-based for easy coding and compatibility with other boards
*AC Power is optically isolated and fused
*Breakout of extra I/O pin

So far, I’ve been able to test the temperature sensor, the LCD, the buttons, and programming, but I have not been able to test the AC power yet. I should be testing that soon, but right now, use at your own risk.

The ZIP file contains the EAGLE files, Gerber production files, pictures of the board, and a Microsoft Excel file containing all of the parts, suppliers, costs, and board designators.

I am considering selling this board as a kit if I get enough interest, so please tell me what you think!

UPDATE: I have been using this design for several months now, and it seems to work fine. In the mean time, this design has won me the PLTW Innova Award for Imagination! pltw.org/innovaawards

This is an LCD and keypad control panel for controlling a Reprap Motherboard based fabber like the MakerBot CupcakeCNC. With this you will be able to use your fabber without needing to attach it to a computer. You can set heater temperatures, move and zero the axes and print .s3g and .gcode files directly from the SD card. The LCD will show you continuous temperature readings, position, and build progress.

An automated controller for home brewing, based on the Sanguino. I didn't design this - I just built it, but thought it would be an interesting addition :)

Both the hardware and software designs are open source. Kits and board schematics can be found at the homepage.

Homepage is brewtroller.com

I designed this as a component for a piece that I'm not ready to reveal the whole story of yet.

This portion of the project contains an outlet, a dimmer switch, and a servo (and for now: a dirty rubber band). The servo operates the dimmer, which in turn controls the amount of current going through one of the outlet's two sockets. (The other one delivers consistent power to the micro-controller / servo via a wall wart.) This is a really nice way to control an outlet...because in all truth, full source voltage is scary, scary stuff.

This board is a combination of the PWM Driver Board, DC Motor Driver Board, Temperature Sensor Board, RS485 comms, and an Arduino! All on one board. It has screw terminals for easy hookup, as well as a power jack for power and an IDC header for the rotary encoder. Its an all-in-one solution for controlling an extruder.

Some highlights:

* Onboard atmega168 - program it just like an Arduino because it is an Arduino.
* 3 x MOSFET drivers for controlling up to 14A @ 12V. Perfect for heaters, fans, solenoids, etc.
* 2 x H-Bridges capable of up to 2A each. Control 2 motors, or control one stepper motor.
* A temperature sensor circuit for reading the standard 100K thermistor.
* RS485 connection for noise-free communications with the motherboard.
* IDC header for connecting a Magnetic Rotary Encoder.
* Polarized ICSP header for simple, easy programming.
* It mounts directly to the Pinch Wheel Extruder!
* It is plug and play with the RepRap Motherboard.

This board is the brains behind the Generation 3 Electronics. The heart is a Sanguino which is an Arduino-compatible board that is powered by an ATMEGA644P chip. It has connectors to hook up all the various peripherals that you'll need to drive a RepRap machine. It has headers for three stepper drivers, as well as 4 RJ45 connectors for Extruder Controller Boards. Not only that, but it has an SD card and a connector to hook it up to an ATX power supply.

Some highlights:

* Onboard atmega644p - 64K flash space, 4k ram, 32 I/O pins, Arduino compatible.
* 3 x Stepper driver connectors with min/max inputs.
* Built-in SD card socket for printing from file and buffering large print jobs.
* RS485 connection for noise-free communications with extruder / toolhead controllers.
* ATX power connector for power. It can also turn the power supply on and off.
* Headers to allow existing Sanguinos to plug straight in.
* I2C headers for simple hookup of external peripherals.
* On/Off switch for instant-kill and simple control of the entire system.

A servo mount for controlling a 'SMT reflow skillet'
This may not be a good idea, btw.

A servo mount for controlling a 'SMT reflow skillet'
This may not be a good idea, btw.

This board is the brains behind the Generation 3 Electronics. The heart is a Sanguino which is an Arduino-compatible board that is powered by an ATMEGA644P chip. It has connectors to hook up all the various peripherals that you'll need to drive a RepRap machine. It has headers for three stepper drivers, as well as 4 RJ45 connectors for Extruder Controller Boards. Not only that, but it has an SD card and a connector to hook it up to an ATX power supply.

Some highlights:

* Onboard atmega644p - 64K flash space, 4k ram, 32 I/O pins, Arduino compatible.
* 3 x Stepper driver connectors with min/max inputs.
* Built-in SD card socket for printing from file and buffering large print jobs.
* RS485 connection for noise-free communications with extruder / toolhead controllers.
* ATX power connector for power. It can also turn the power supply on and off.
* Headers to allow existing Sanguinos to plug straight in.
* I2C headers for simple hookup of external peripherals.
* On/Off switch for instant-kill and simple control of the entire system.

What it is:

A little contraption that allows you to flick a light switch on and off under the control of a micro-controller.

What it does:
You can see a video of it in action here:
youtube.com/watch?v=P0hBCdMJ96g

I've modded a Rock Revolution drum controller to work with an MSA-P MIDI decoder from highly_liquid so I can play on a real electronic drum set, in my case a Roland TD-3SW . Additionally, I've come up with a way to trigger the cymbal sounds (hi-hat, crash and splash) in Rock Band 2 during freestyle, fills, and big rock endings.

With this mod you will be able to play all four games Rock Band (RB1), Rock Band 2 (RB2), Guitar Hero World Tour (GHWT) and Rock Revolution (RR) on a real electronic drum kit such as a Roland TD-3 with full song charts:

* 4 lanes plus bass pedal in RB1
* 4 lanes plus bass pedal with cymbal sounds during fills in RB2
* 5 lanes plus bass pedal in GHWT
* All 7 lanes (6 pads plus bass pedal) in RR

First of all, why Rock Revolution?

I may be one of only a handful of people on the planet that actually think Rock Revolution is a fun game. From a drummers standpoint, the ability to have 6 different pads plus a pedal on the song charts sounded like a lot of fun, and it definitely is. Additionally, I wanted to use just one modified controller that gave full chart mappings in each game. The Rock Revolution drum controller easily achieve's this goal. It is compatible with all the games that have released at this point, and gives full song charts with each game.

Hasn't the MSA-P mod been done before?

Yes it has. I do not take credit for coming up with the idea to use an MSA-P. To the best of my knowledge, this was the brainchild of a couple guys on the rockband.com forums. In fact, I originally followed their instructions from a rockband.com forum post to mod my RB1 controller.

My mod for the RR controller is very similar to the MSA-P mod for the RB1 controller. All that I really had to do was locate the correct solder points for each drum pad on the Rock Revolution drum controller's circuit board, and I was in business. I also took this one step further and developed a completely new circuit that when wired to the MSA-P, enables the cymbal sounds in Rock Band 2.

Doesn't RB2 already have cymbal sounds?

Yes and No. With the original RB1 modded controller, it was possible to map more than one pad on the real electronic drum set to the same color. For example, I had blue assigned to both the second rack tom, and also to a cymbal. Same went for yellow and green also. This allowed for more realistic drumming because you could now play the cymbal parts on the cymbal pads and the tom parts on the toms. However, in the drum fills and big rock endings, all you got were tom sounds no matter what pad you hit. Hitting a cymbal and hearing a tom sound can really break the sense of realism.

Here's a board I designed back in 2006. At the time, I was obsessed with making easy to use controller modules in the smallest packages possible. This control board should fit into a DIP44 socket.

Includes a nice LDO 5V regulator I found, and an onboard RS232 line converter. The line voltage RS232 pins and the power and ground pins are on a screw terminal header, and just about everything is brought out to the pins on the bottom. I tried to get as much IO as possible, but obviously there are some pins that didn't make it. Includes ISP header, and also has the watch crystal for RTC.

It's a pretty neat board, and it can be assembled by hand for about $20.

This is the Sanguino board. It is an Arduino compatible board based on the atmega644P. This page will tell you how to assemble one, probably from a kit that you bought somewhere. Once you are done, you'll have a sweet little board you can use for prototyping, hacking, or even for a permanent project.

The Sanguino has some awesome features like:

* 64K of flash space
* 4K of RAM
* 2K of EEPROM
* 2 hardware serial ports
* 32 GPIO pins
* 6 PWM pins
* 8 analog pins
* I2C, SPI, etc.