This is a modified v1.1 Thingomatic Heater Board which has a tab with through-hole pads for soldering and securing the Molex KK 0.156" harness connector as well as the motor connector. This provides a much sturdier mounting point for the wiring connectors, making it much harder to break the connectors off along with their pads. Additionally, this layout has no vias and uses wider traces to the motor connector and to the SMD components. (The heater traces are the same widths and left unchanged other than the removal of the vias.)

In the v1.1 r0 version, the connectors are soldered to SMD pads and accidentally bending the Molex connector up or down can leverage its pads right off of the board.

While this PCB addresses the mechanical problem with the attachment of the connectors, it does not address the problem associated with overheating of the plastics in the connector shrouds or their mating plugs -- particularly the HEATER- and +12V wires on the wiring harness. To address that problem, instead solder some teflon jacketed wires to the pads (v1.1 r0) or the through holes (v1.1 r2) and then make a pigtail connector or similar. Teflon jacketed wire can take the heat and if you run several inches of it, it should be enough to dissipate the heat before mating with the wiring harness. You can get a small spool of the stuff at a good price in the US from bulkwire.com; the through holes for the Molex connector will easily accommodate 14 gauge wire.

Note that the tab is 10.81 mm (0.43") deep and as such will add that much additional length to that side of your heater board. [The tab seen in the pictures is 2.54 mm (0.1") longer than the one in the attached Eagle and Gerber files.]

BTW, there is no "r1" that I'm aware of. For whatever reason, I accidentally produced my board with "r2" on it. Cest la vie.

A BatchPCB design is available at
batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=78232&check=38563f546fc5198d95b69e6810006a8e

**NOTE: if you are looking for Gerber files for the original Thingomatic Heater Board 1.1, see Thing 16459,

thingiverse.com/thing:16450

i am trying to design a ATX PSU adapter for a reprap,

i am really looking for feadback on this one to make it better

For programming the AVR ATtiny45 and ATtiny85 microcontrollers from Atmel without any additional circuitry or components. This acts like a USBtinyISP (http://ladyada.net/make/usbtinyisp/) but provides an 8-pin socket for placing the ATtiny45/85 directly into the programmer. The firmware is a combination of USBtiny (http://dicks.home.xs4all.nl/avr/usbtiny/) and V-USB (http://www.obdev.at/products/vusb/index.html).

Making those old red Gen3 motherboards more like a Gen4 motherboard.

You can buy one in the MakerBot Store! store.makerbot.com/3g-5d-shield-for-cupcake.html

This is a shield for the Gen3 Motherboard that allows connecting a fourth stepper (for controlling a stepper-extruder) directly to the motherboard. This is my "sorry guys" for coming up with the firmware changes and that ugly cable hack that was used to connect the Gen3 EC to an external stepper.

Note: I fixed a glitch in the RPM variants of the Machines.xml files. Sorry about that.

Below you can download a file "3G_5D_Profiles.zip" that contains three profiles:

A skeinforge 40 profile, called "3G 5D (Dimension) Example v2," that is the same profile I use with both Gen3+Shield and Gen4 motherboards. Note that this profile is NOT for use the RPM variants of the machines files.

Two skeinforge 35 profiles, called "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm ABS MK7" and "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm PLA MK7," that can be really be used with any stepper-driven extruder. These are for use with the RPM variants of the machine files.

Update Oct 2nd, 2011: I just updated the hex file with endstop fixes. I also uploaded a new firmware based on 3.0 that will work better with RepG26. You will need to update the EC to 3.0 as well. The stock EC firmware will work. The source for the new 3.0 fimware is here: github.com/giseburt/G3Firmware/tree/3G-5D-Shield-3.0

Update Nov 4th, 2011: I've added an E-Stop connector and associated circuitry to make it reset the bot in case of a failure. Because of this I've changed the pricing slightly.

Update Nov 13th, 2011: I've fixed a glitch in the 5D machines file for use with RepG27.

This PCB connects an mbed microcontroller board [1] to a Sparkfun Quadstepper Motor Driver Board [2].
I use it for my RepRap Prusa Mendel 3D printer but you can use it for any CNC machine.

The firmware [3] for the mbed board is based on the Tonokip firmware and is compatible to ReplicatorG using the fived driver.

There are jumpers for a 100k thermistor, a hot-end (via 3.3V mosfet) and a thumb-joystick.

Update: new version (mbedquadstepperminimalNOatmega8u2.brd) has 2 mosfets and 2 thermistors and 3 min-endstops pins... but no support for atmega8u2 or thumb joystick anymore...

[1] mbed.org
[2] sparkfun.com/products/10507
[3] github.com/renebohne/RepRap-Firmware-for-mbed-microcontroller

I took the schematic from the parent object and made some PCB layouts out of it. I applied a fix to add resisters to every transistor, otherwise parts are the same (4x TIP transistors, 4x resistors, 4x 1N400x diodes, 3x 2-pin connectors)

While making an order at a large on-line parts supplier I added a hand-full of low-cost ATtiny13V microcontrollers to my order as an impulse buy. It was only after my order arrived that I discovered I had accidentally ordered the SOIC version rather than the DIP version of this chip. No problem! With a little work in EAGLE it is possible to design a small breakout board to convert the 8pin SOIC chip into a breadboard friendly 8pin DIL package with the added benefit of a reset switch and an in-system programming header.

I haven't actually built this thing yet, so there are no guarantees it will work. Next time I have a batch of prototypes manufactured I'll throw this design in also to test. I'll update this post/thing accordingly.

I designed MakerBot Gen4 Interface Board small.

I found 2ch LCD MODULE and 4 direction Switch and flashed.
Pin assignment of the LCD is original MIB and compatible.
The LCD should work with the original MIB just plugging the cable.
I think that I can use it when I place an LCD cable of original MIB.
I do not test it.

I attached a backlight switch to the LCD.

This thing drives 4 stepper motors synchronously.
I designed it for the BigRep thingiverse.com/thing:8609 which has 4 Stepper motors for the Z-axis.

One Step, Dir and Enable signal gets split up and serves 4 Polou A4983 stepper carrier boards.

As the stepper motors i use (180Ncm) pull 2A per coil, each driver has its own 12V line and connector. Mounting holes (50x50mm) for a fan are provided also.

USB90μC: a minimal development board for the Atmel AT90USB162 USB enabled microcontroller.

This is a cleaned up version of a home-designed-and-built development board used to learn how to interface to and write programs for the AT90USB162 microcontroller. A pic of the first home-built version can be seen at flickr.com/photos/everydayinventors/5368101007/ .

With the exception of the AVR mcu, all parts are through-hole for ease of assembly.

If you don't wish to manufacture a bare PCB yourself, you can get one from BatchPCB: batchpcb.com/index.php/Products/61022

Looking for ways to rebuild my two cupcakes in the search of the uber-cupcake, I stumbled on tinkerings' hybrid pololu / makerbot stepper driver. This thing is awesome and I had to have one. But looking at it closer I thought the trace routing could be a bit better with larger traces, tighter tolerances, and I felt it needed a little more power.

So I rerouted the board, brought everything up to the top layer (dip switches would be worlds easier to adjust without taking the board off the bot), changed all the surface mount parts to 0805, and added an ATX-4 connector for a little more amperage. I also removed three of the endstop connections (because who really needs six?) to reduce the size of the board even more. Now its only a tiny bit bigger than the existing makerbot stepper drivers. With the right capacitors I still think it gets pretty good airflow under the drivers... these A4983 drivers rock and don't get too hot on the makerbot.

Update: Everything works like a charm! The images show the cupcake after installation and even though my wiring is not fully done it makes a huge difference in the tidiness of the electronics. If my x carriage wasn't acting up the bot would be much quieter... the extruder motor is louder than the steppers.

Update: Make sure that the belt tension is adjusted properly, as in looser than you think should even work - this was my problem with the x carriage. Then you need to dial back the current using the trimpot on the pololus until the motors move smoothly and quietly. Properly adjusted this thing is as quiet, well, as quiet as a resonant plywood box can be.

A small PCB that breaks out SSOP-08 packages to a standard 0.1" pin spacing. This allows you to use these SMD devices with bread boards and strip boards. I created this board so that I could use a PCA9306 I2C level shifter in a prototype, but it'll work with any SSOP-08 device.

2 ch × 2 switches
Board made​​.
5 cm x 5 cm
This small size.

I use LED and FAN switch.

T-O-M cleared up around.

Alternate footprint of thing:7100 which in turn is a derivative of thing:7064, Thermocouple sensor, single sided carrier board by moleofproduction

Bold Note: I have not assembled or built one of these and only used the original PSMD board as reference to try and make things fit. The capacitor and jumper switches under the Polulu may or may not fit. Also, i changed the connector for the stepper to a standard 0.1" header.

This is simply a manipulation of the PSMD Triple Axis Driver by 'tinkerings'.
The idea is that it replaces the need for 5 stepper boards using the Gen 4 Makerbot electronics and replaces it with only one board. (Not counting the 5 pololu boards).


The first step for me was to recreate the previous version with an additional 2 stepper drivers. Next step is to make the connector a 30-pin ribbon so i can create custom boards for various controllers. :P

Note: Some Pololu drivers can operate at 3.3V and 5V...just saying. :) The end stop connectors on A and B is for experimental purposes. I know it consumes unnecessary pinnage, but you never know what it may be used for...encoder? :)

UPDATE #1: Thanks for the tips Protonite! I've added some changes that some people may like, and some may find it really annoying. :) I changed the 10 pin connector to a 6 pin connector, like on the Makerbot boards. I've axed the Max Endstop for good measure. The Makerbot motherboard has 2 pins unused. I added VCC and Minumum Endstop signal to these pins. It should not affect the Makerbot Motherboards compatibility. Ive added both the PC Power Supply plug, and a screw terminal connection. There is also a switch added so you can turn off the Voltage to the motors without powering down the supply completely. Useful for servicing the stepper boards. I appreciate the input advice! I think the new layout looks pretty sick, and i cant wait to get a working version made. :)

Compatibility:
Makerbot Motherboard; Stepper Motors require standard 0.1" header

Version 1.1 of the NBitWonder DC Motor Driver. This project is a simple dual-channel DC motor for robotics and other hobbyist projects. The project uses hand-solderable parts (no under-chip pads), and fits completely on a single-sided PCB, making it easy to print or fabricate using homebrew PCB methods. The board is designed to be cheap, with parts costing ~$10 in quantity 1 (without volume discounts).

The project was originally designed as drive electronics to be used in conjunction with Marc Raiser's Tank project: thingiverse.com/thing:6554 (Tank v2 thingiverse.com/thing:8080 is explicitly modified for use with this board). Design files are posted here, but for the most up-to-date documentation and technical data, refer to the project's github repository, which can be found here: github.com/NBitWonder/DCMotorController

The project is the result of hard work by members of the NBitWonder community. For more about us, and some of our other projects, check us out here: nbitwonder.com

Nanode - A Network Application Node.

Nanode is like an Arduino but with ethernet/web connectivity.

It also supports easy to use wireless and wired networks.

It has been developed as a low cost tool to allow simple sensor networks to be developed.

It's the perfect platform for smart sensors, home automation, monitoring and control.

It's through hole construction and the use of socketed DIP ICs makes it easy to build for the home constructor.

It's been competetively priced so that it costs about the same as an Arduino (roughly $30 US, or £18).

Without the ethernet parts it's sub $20 and can be used as a low cost Arduino "work-alike". It's compatible with most Arduino shields.

It has some key advantages over the basic Arduino:

1. Built in ethernet controller
2. Unique MAC address ID
3. Supports external EEPROM/FRAM/SRAM/Flash device for increased data storage
4. Supports a simple wireless transceiver shield from Jee Labs.
5. Supports a local multi-drop serial bus for wired networks of Master/Slaves
6. Breadboard friendly I/O connectors bring all I/O out on a 0.1" pitch




This is the productionised version of the Nanode for the London Hackspace.

It's very much updated and includes a whole lot of new features.

1. SPI serial memory either SRAM, FRAM or EE for storing data and web pages,

2. Microchip MAC chip so that it has a unique MAC address.

3. Wireless Connectivity - plug a Jee Labs RFM12B module straight in to give a bi-directional wireless link.

4.Moves the reset switch to where you can get at it - side actuated

5. Moves the LED to where you can see it.

6.Improved connector for local power/comms bus with 4 pin screw terminal block. Makes for simple interconnection with 4 way telephone cable.

7. Adds the London Hackspace Logo, Pachube Logo and Arbour Wood Ltd details.

8. Adds Auto-reset (from FTDI cable).

9. Adds Virtual USB Vusb (Like Metaboard) for programming obdev.at/products/vusb/index.html
metalab.at/wiki/Metaboard

Nanode provides lowest cost web interconnectivity for microcontrollers and smart sensor networks.

It is compatible with the Arduino programming environment.

It combines ATmega328, ENC28J60 ethernet controller and magjack ethernet connector on the same small pcb. All components are conventional through-hole so that it can be assembled by anyone with basic soldering skills. It can be built for under £20 (US$32) which is half the cost of an Arduino with ethernet shield.

The Nanode has additional I/O connectors which bring all of the I/O from the ATmega328 microcontroller and power to the top edge of the pcb. This allows it to be plugged direrectly into a standard breadboard making prototyping easier.

It is compatible with most Arduino shields -such as the Nokia 3310 display shield shown'

In addition to ethernet connectivity, Nanodes can be connected together on a low cost wired serial bus which allows them to be distributed around the home, for example, in a home automation or energy monitoring system. The serial bus allows Nanodes to communicate with one another or via a Master/Slave heirarchy. The Master device normally has the ethernet connection, and may also have real time clock, User display/interface SDcard storage etc.


The Nanode platform is an ideal project to introduce web connectivity and networking. It's low cost and ease of assembly makes it an ideal college or Hackspace project.

Nanode allows applications for internet remote montoring and control to be developed on a familiar low cost platform Applications such as web servers, web clients or for data exchange and control using services such as Pachube.

Nanode is based on an earlier ATmega/ENC28J60 design and firmware by Tuxgraphics.

This is the Ultimaker temperature sensor (version 1) that is based on the AD597. It amplifies the signal from a type K thermocouple and has the same mV/K output as the polular AD595 board that is used in many RepRap projects. It's about the size of a thumbnail (hence the out-of-focus picture). The amp chip is an SOT-8. The screw terminals are extra small (2.54 mm pitch) and holes are M3.

They were designed in Eagle CAD by Siert Wijnia and myself.

The files are found here on the RepRap wiki:
reprap.org/wiki/File:Thermocouple_board_v0.4.sch
reprap.org/wiki/File:Thermocouple_board_v0.4.brd

It has a nice bright blue LED, great for long exposure photography of a print (for moving head machines). The picture with the lit LED is a prototype made with the help of Jelle, who's also designer of the UltiRouter: thingiverse.com/thing:7110

Separate sensor boards (pre-assembled) will be available within a month or two. On request we can also offer the PCBs in quantities of 20 and more.

FIXES in the next release:
- A ground plane!
- Pads on the other side so you can decide where to mount the terminals or headers.

Derivative of thing 7064, Thermocouple sensor, single sided carrier board by moleofproduction ( thingiverse.com/thing:7064 ). The Mole of Production asked for a "proper Eagle version if anyone wants to put in the time," so here is one version.

This is a derivative of Tinkering's thingiverse.com/thing:4526 with the endstop interface and the LED's removed (for now) using the robotshop.com/pololu-8v-35v-2a-single-bipolar-stepper-motor-driver-w-regulators.html . This board is designed to be easy to etch at home using the laser printer method so it can be made at home. I decided to make this guy because i fried one of my motor controllers by accident and the replacements have a 3 week lead time. Everything needed to make this can be picked up from radio shack in exception to some of the connectors.

If you want micro-stepping (1/16), and want to learn how to make your own PCB, this thing is for you.

* Will be finishing write up soon!

The MakerBot Gen4 Interface board is a DIY addition to your MakerBot that will allow you to interact directly with the machine. It has multiple buttons, multiple LEDs, and a 16x4 character LCD screen to provide feedback directly to you. Using this board, it is possible to run your MakerBot completely independently with no computer attached. You can set and read the temperature, view the progress of a build, and even start a new build from a file stored on the SD card. Of course you can also hack the firmware to make it anything else you might want as well.

This kit is DIY, and soldering is required. All the components are through-hole so it is a great kit for beginners.

This is my wireless printing add-on for my awesome Ultimaker. With it I can print wireless via bluetooth. The range is about 5 to 7 meters, but if the distance gets longer, the signal gets crapy'er and the speed of printing suffers.

This add-on can be used with any 3D printer, if the printer uses serial communication. The module I used is this one: mdfly.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=63

If you do not want to have to make the PCB you can buy the break-out board as well:
mdfly.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=428&zenid=bka7i29d1id7h20ki7iop64ov7

Here's a movie the thing:
youtube.com/watch?v=oXpfKqx7Uhc

I also made a version which includes a LCD screen, that version is more dedicated for the Ultimaker electronics V1. For more info check out my blog at: jjshortcut.wordpress.com/2011/02/19/wireless-serial-bluetooth-module/

This is a Board i designed for my EMC reprap.
I have a cnc mill see here: robotik.dyyyh.de/cnc.html which is rather heavy. At the time im driving it with the reprap electronix when printig. The problem is, that the acceleration and speed of the axis is controlled much better by EMC2 then the reprap electronics can do. For a normal mendel which has low mass this might be not as important, but for a heavy machine it makes a differenze. Another anoying thin is, that i have to plug the stepper-drevers to the reprap-electronix when printing, and back to the parallelport when milling.
The board will be connected to the serial port of the PC which is driving the mill and controlled by the EMC2 Axis interface with gcodes as usual.
The difference is, it uses rs232 and not rs485
The controller is an ATMega168 which makes the board compatible with the Arduino stuff..
Features:
- 3 Temperatur sensor inputs
- 3 FET outputs, for heater, bed or something, (bigger ones with option to mount heatsink)
- serial port for communikation with host pc
- isp pins for programming the uC or flahing bootloader
- uart pins for programming with FT232 usb-seriel translator
- i2c for whatever comunication i dont know jet
- 4 general purpose pins with vcc/gnd for further stuff...

I took SMD parts only for the resistors and capacitors, because the TQFP parts are hard to solder if somebody wants to built this.

There is no Stepper controller or any motor driver for the extruder on this board, cause these things can be driven from emc directly by sending step/dir signals over the parallel port (or a mesa card)

the firmware for the controller and the plugin for EMC2 will follow...

If you have any ideas what i could add / change on the board please let me know

EDIT:

i uploaded the firmware for the controller, did not really test it, only with the serial terminal, but seems to work

EDIT:

New tarball added.
Tarball includes Mcodes for ExtruderTemp and FanSpeed till now,
others will follow, (its almost the same everywhere)
Firmware for the atmega8
eagle files

I allready connected it sucsessfully to EMC2 and printed some thing see here:
youtube.com/watch?v=_lRp1l8qiyE

I wanted to be able to solder the inexpensive AR6110e receiver to the shield for my quadrotor. I also wanted to be able to bind the receiver with ease.

This works with the Aeroquad shield avalible at: aeroquad.com/

Note: you will only need 27 out of the 40 pins available from the header.

The DC Servo Controller is a specialized Arduino designed to control a DC motor in with feedback from an encoder. This is what is called a 'closed-loop' system and more commonly a 'servo' motor. When most people think servo motor, an image of the hobby servo comes to mind. Hobby servos are special motors with a motor, gearbox, and control electronics built into one single package. These motors are cheap and easy to control. This board is more flexible, and is the big brother to that type of setup. With the MakerBot DC Servo Controller, you have the freedom to fully program your servo, and is is also designed to work with our Magnetic Linear Encoders or Magnetic Rotary Encoders which give you an amazing amount of accuracy and flexibility in your design. You can also use much stronger motors that can draw up to 2.8A! With this board you can build awesome, accurate, and easily programmed robots.

The Magnetic Rotary Encoder v1.2 is a fantastic building block for positioning systems. The core of this board is the AS5040 chip. This chip is what is commonly called an encoder. What is does is measure and report its location. It does this by reading the changes in the magnetic field surrounding the chip. This chip measures rotational motion like that of a motor shaft. What this means is that when properly assembled, this board will allow you to detect the the position and speed of a motor. If you combine this with a motor and a microcontroller, then you can build a closed-loop positioning system whose speed and position can be precisely determined and controlled, even if something unexpected happens.

This circuit is based on Alexander's Simple PIC 3 axis board from PMinMO

pminmo.com/3axisPIC/3axisPIC.htm
It has a simple 2 transistor chopper and a pic 12508 as the step translator.

Economical buz 11 mosfets (50 cents apiece and rated 50V 30A) are used to drive power levels, they have built in protection diodes but you may still want to add more on the motors if they are high current ones.

It is very cheap to make and the board is designed tho be easily made in your own lab.

Integrated heat, temperature sensting, and motor control

The Thingomatic Heater Board is mashup of innovative 3D printing techniques. The heater board fulfils a number of roles in the Thingomatic. First, it provides a nice, flat printing surface with mounting holes. Second, the PCB itself is one large, flat heater which provides very even heating across the surface. Third, the PCB includes an on-board thermistor which allows the board to measure its own temperature. Last, but not least, the PCB includes a header for connecting it to the rest of the MakerBot electronics so that you can easily wire it up.

Microstepping for great justice

These new stepper drivers are capable of doing 1/8 stepping which means that instead of jerking from one position to the next, the stepper motor will gradually move between them. This results in lower vibrations, lower noise, and better precision. Your machine will be quieter, print better, and create world peace.

Highly configurable and tunable

While this driver works great out of the box, we've added a bunch of configuration options to this board if you want to get into the nitty gritty of stepper driver operation. There is a dip switch selector to change the stepping mode between full, half, 1/4, and 1/8 step. The current control is also completely configurable with four potentiometers with large test points so that you can set the current, decay mode, and RC constants. With this you can tune the stepper driver to perfectly suit your stepper motor.

High power output

The chip we're using is capable of handling up to 2.8A per phase, so you can easily control motors up to NEMA23 size. The provided power connector allows you to easily power it off a standard ATX power supply, but if you're feeling adventurous, the chip can handle up to 35V for the drive voltage. You'll have to wire up your own connector though.