Photo Interrupter GP1A57HRJ to mount on a MicroRax beam profile

This is a plate to mount gen6 electronics on the side of a Prusa Mendel RepRap. It was designed to be cut on a laser cutter out of 3mm acrylic or plywood, but it should be easy to cut on a cnc router too.

I got sick of breaking other endstop holders when trying to mount it on the smooth rod. On a whim I decided to model a hinge. It printed a working hinge the first time!

This one fits my endstop switches which are 5.6x6.45x12.75. It clamps with one M3x10 screw.

v2 Update: The hinge pin wasn't printing all the way through because of an error in the model. This was making the hinge weaker. v2 Fixes this problem. I also added the gcode. It is 0.3mm layer height 0.5mm extrusion width, 0.35 infill.

This is a modified v1.1 Thingomatic Heater Board which has a tab with through-hole pads for soldering and securing the Molex KK 0.156" harness connector as well as the motor connector. This provides a much sturdier mounting point for the wiring connectors, making it much harder to break the connectors off along with their pads. Additionally, this layout has no vias and uses wider traces to the motor connector and to the SMD components. (The heater traces are the same widths and left unchanged other than the removal of the vias.)

In the v1.1 r0 version, the connectors are soldered to SMD pads and accidentally bending the Molex connector up or down can leverage its pads right off of the board.

While this PCB addresses the mechanical problem with the attachment of the connectors, it does not address the problem associated with overheating of the plastics in the connector shrouds or their mating plugs -- particularly the HEATER- and +12V wires on the wiring harness. To address that problem, instead solder some teflon jacketed wires to the pads (v1.1 r0) or the through holes (v1.1 r2) and then make a pigtail connector or similar. Teflon jacketed wire can take the heat and if you run several inches of it, it should be enough to dissipate the heat before mating with the wiring harness. You can get a small spool of the stuff at a good price in the US from bulkwire.com; the through holes for the Molex connector will easily accommodate 14 gauge wire.

Note that the tab is 10.81 mm (0.43") deep and as such will add that much additional length to that side of your heater board. [The tab seen in the pictures is 2.54 mm (0.1") longer than the one in the attached Eagle and Gerber files.]

BTW, there is no "r1" that I'm aware of. For whatever reason, I accidentally produced my board with "r2" on it. Cest la vie.

A BatchPCB design is available at
batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=78232&check=38563f546fc5198d95b69e6810006a8e

**NOTE: if you are looking for Gerber files for the original Thingomatic Heater Board 1.1, see Thing 16459,

thingiverse.com/thing:16450

An early design for a parametrizable permanent magnet alternator. Or structure for a one.

This is my project to create the most powerful, and opensource portable pc. I'm still in highschool so if you feel like you can help out please do so.
If you need to contact me comment below.

A 2-part, hinged, bolt-on holder/fixture for affixing a small packaged sensing device (in this case a custom WIMU) to a round shaft or bar allowing it to be easily attached to golf clubs, tennis racquets, pipes, cylindrical bar stock, walking sticks etc.

This is one of the best wire strippers I have ever used. If setup correctly, it can be very precise and give feedback telling when the blades have cut deep enough.

Use:
Sight down the blades.
Align the blades with where the wire should be stripped.
Move the wire into the blades having the blades cut into the insulation.
When the blades cut through the insulation and contact the wire the LED will light.
Spin the wire or the tool to cut the insulation completely around the wire.
Remove the wire from the tool and pull off the insulation.

After recently completing my first 3D printer (Prusa), along with Generation 7 Electronics and opto endstops, I struggled to find some decent mounts to suit my needs.

These are based on the recent Prusa Iteration 2 release with integrated m3 nut catchers.

Simple, minamalistic and can be mounted anywhere around your frame!

LED light Guide

This will fit on a standard LED.

Any image can be added to the light guide and the image will light up when the LED is ON.

Similar to a small edge lit sign.

i am trying to design a ATX PSU adapter for a reprap,

i am really looking for feadback on this one to make it better

For holding your Sanguinololu.

A few months ago, my school was getting ready for a theater run of "The Little Shop of Horrors" and needed a tripod that could mount a video camera and be controlled from back stage wirelessly via radio. The whole idea behind the thing was that at the end of the play, when the plant achieved sentience, a camera, hidden inside of the huge plant, would look around at the audience and pick-out one member of the audience to devour.

I was most dismayed to find out that junior year of high school is not the most forgiving time to be trying to bang-out a completed, complicated, reliable device involving software, electronic and mechanical hardware as a one-man development team. A student needs more than 4 hours of sleep every night to be able to at least attempt to hold an intelligent conversation once a day for the duration of the school week.

I did not manage to finish the actual mechanical part of the assembly in time for the run (it's missing the all-important camera mount) but managed to finish all of the gears, mounts, wiring, soldering, OpenScad and Arduino/XBee coding necessary to get the thing moving via remote with stepper acceleration, control smoothing and a wicked-fast 20ms communication delay (by comparison, most first-person shooters operate with a 80-200ms latency). So 1,199 finished lines of code later, I have to admit it's still a work in progress (at least the mechanical camera mounts are) but I'm hoping, at the very least, the XBee and Arduino code involved in the controller and receiver sketches might help out anybody who needs to have super-fast, reliable wireless data communication with error checking and ACK packets using an XBee in API mode.

I'll update this Thingiverse posting with a video of the whole contraption moving under its own power sometime later today once I've had a chance to trim and upload the video.

The latest current source files for the Arduino and XBee powered electronics and the parametric gears can be found at their respective Github repositories here: (for the Arduino code)
github.com/xtremd/XbeeRemoteCameraRig
and here: (for the OpenScad code)
github.com/xtremd/Parametric-Openscad-Tripod-Mount

If anyone has any questions about my code or my tripod, just drop me a quick comment below and I'm sure a bunch of people (including me) will be able to help you out.

-XtremD

This OpenSCAD script will generate a single part rack for mounting multiple double-stacked 25x25mm Radio->USB "base station" PCB units. This allows the units to be easily slid into the enclosure where they will be held securely by friction and locked in place by micro-USB plugs which attach at the side. These racks will be acetone-welded into commercial ABS enclosures for a professional looking, low-cost and secure medium scale technology build.

This would be of use to someone who wants a modular system for securing multiple stacked PCBs within a larger enclosure in such a way that they can be readily removed.

Changes from previous versions:
v0.6
- use rounded cuboid for USB plug cutout to attempt to prevent roof from falling in
v0.5
- fixed cutout for USB above thicker shorter section by placing difference operation across entire union operation
v0.4
- added support to thicker section to help it print properly at large z values
- added cap and cutout for USB above thicker shorter section
v0.3
- added support to thin section to help it print properly at large z values
v0.2 2011-12-13
- make base thinner
- make tray walls taller
- remove tray lip
- a 4 base station unit with mouse ears in a hollow cuboid tray
v0.1 2011-12-13
- first attempt a 2 base station unit with mouse ears in a hollow cuboid tray

Here's a stylish laser cut BeagleBone enclosure for those that want to give their new embedded computer a good home.

Here is a simple electronics box for the Sanguinololu board (were all the connections actually fit inside the box). When I built my Huxley I had a perfect box for the electronics. This is a replication of that box. I am only using the lid myself after deciding that 10mm holes for ventilation would be enough to keep the stepper drivers cool. On the original lid I had a fan mounted.
I had to split the box in half because my Huxley can only print 130X130mm.
The box is 144x82mm and 29mm deep (outside measured). Walls about 2mm.
The extra slit on the lid is for the SD-Card reader. That's the position I have my reader in. But you can of course move it around in SketchUp.

This is a mdf made linbin.

Plastic linbins arn't cheap, and you can't just buy a few fold-able cardboard ones. So lasercut them instead!

Designed for 3mm material. I make mine out of mdf!

My cheap surround sound system has small speakers that will hang on a screw with a keyhole.
This is a simple hook to allow a screw mount without damaging the headboard of my bed.
It's sized for a 6-32 screw to self tap into the plastic. Be careful it doesn't stick out the back and scratch the headboard.
If I had really been on the ball, I'd have added a groove to hide the wire. Too late, it's already on the printer!
(If your young, it may be a good idea to make it stronger.)

Made my own...

I aimed for a better waterproofness.
My backpack isnt the dryest place to be for gadjets.
i use bathroom silicone for a tight seal. i also had a old Silicone USB Plug in my parts bin that fits right into the socket.

This lamp shade holds "star" type high power LEDs to make economical lighting fixture.
With a handy little controller, you can install LED lighting everywhere easily & economically.
I have a LED controller that's perfect for this kind of project. Please find the information at instructables (http://www.instructables.com/id/Universal-High-Power-LED-Driver-with-3D-printable-/).

I designed this clip to attach "star" type LEDs to my magnifier lamp shade. Star shaped heat sink snaps into the clip, and the clip clips to the shade. Conversion from the original florescent was easy with these clips.

Just a simple sled that mount for a BeaglBone and a 400-point breadboard that's pretty useful for quick prototyping with the BeagleBone.

This is a very rugged C cell battery holder that can stack modularly. The C cells snap in (push real hard). The battery holders can be stacked together and even glued to make 3v, 6v, 9v, 12v, 18v, etc. C cells provide enough power for almost any job. There is a grove and two holes on the side for a twist wire for further securing either the batteries or the holder. To remove the C cells there is a hole in the bottom where they can be pushed out. Have fun.

A parametric iPhone holder. I plan on using this as a car mount and mashing it up with legs to make a stand alone holder someday.

this needs: thingiverse.com/thing:15206 as well.

I probably need to add some clearance room for the connector. Still a work in progress.

Clip this light onto your Kindle 3 and read in the dark! I have plans to use a smaller battery and make an enclosure for the electronics, so it looks nicer. Or if anyone would like to make a derivative that would be awesome!

This is an openSCAD model of the iPhone/iPod/iPad connector. Useful when mocking up holders and the like.

This is a Pencil holder made of methacrylate. It have 3 pieces but you do not need glue.

Se trata de un portalapices hecho de metacrilato. Esta formado por 3 piezas que encajan unas en otras, se puede montar y usar sin necesidad de pegamento.

I liked the predecessor. I modified the mount and put in more holes to conserve plastic.
There are 4 mounting holes with nut traps for M3 hardware, but only 3 are used because the Mega doesn't have room for the head of the 4th screw.
This mounts to the RTM (Ronthomp Mendel) using 6-32 screws and nut traps.
The part is just as it was removed from the 3D printer, so please excuse the stings in the photos.
In the photo of it mounted to the frame, the bolt is too long. It will be cut to length.

This is a most simple design for a laser cut LED candle. The LED is powered by a coin battery cell. You can use any LED. Most realistic is a special yellow flashing blink LED as you can find them on ebay.

Push button.