A co-worker has a Traxxas JATO 3.3 radio controlled race car. He broke one of the struts and has ideas to make a custom setup. I worked with him for about an hour to sketch this up. It hasn't been printed yet but looks promising.

Notice the "JC" for his initials built into the structure. 3D Printing for the win!

There is a support peg included to hold the ball joint up. I suggested just using a bolt through a real ball joint, but the customer insisted we try it. Clip the support off and round off as needed.

This is a cleaned up version of the printed clock we were able to make during Clockathon #2 last weekend. Thank you Makerbot and Bre for setting that up and hosting it, and thank you Ben for all the help, the awesome test print all set up, and the brilliant idea to back off one gear for the power drum.

It was ticking, powered by a weight that would only drop about 9" per twelve hour period, and included printed concentric shafts to support minute and hour hands on the face of the clock.

Here's some video: youtube.com/watch?v=AH4Tg2tIgfg
I had to inflict grievous harm to the code base at the time and have cleaned everything up since. See details below.

Parametric hinged and bolted attachment for square bars

This OpenSCAD script will generate a 2 part holder to attach a Tyndall WIMUv3 to the upright square cross-sectional posts on the moveable sled part of the assassin trainer at Bath University. The size of the bar it is attached to can be parametrically varied

Todo:
test fit and adjust
add "wiggle" for bolts and captured nuts

Warnings:
None

Note:
You will need to also have the modules mouse_ears_test.scad, pivot_1_0.scad and rounded_cuboid_v2.4.scad in the same directory or your library for this to compile correctly

Changes from previous versions:
0.4
- Adjusted position of cutouts around hinge and bolt clamp so that they dont go all the way through the wall to make for easier printing and drilling
- Made hinge pin larger to make it easier to insert hinge pin without drilling
0.3
- Added option to add device holder on side or not using use_holder variable
- Fixed large clamp part so that it has correct internal dimensions
- Increased height of small cutouts on long side of WIMU hodler so that activity LED can be seen
- added comments
- Moved everything up onto the build plane
- Fixed some translate issues where bar_stock_l and bar_stock_b were mixed up
- Moved the hinge and bolt side cutouts so that a thin piece of material would connect the 2 halves
- Moved the mouse ears into the union and differecne operations applied to the main clamp body
0.2
- reduced individual parts count by using the pivot module only twice and using cut lines to split it up
0.1
- First attempt

This is a subset of the parts needed for a full Test Jig #4, modified to try concentric metal bushing/shafts instead of bearings on those gears that need to support hands on the face of the clock.

A pen holder for plotting on your ToM with minimal effort. Mounts in place of the extruder and can be adjusted.


This can swivel a bit when it's mounted to get it centered nicely then. It plots good for me but I'll likely be refining this slightly in the future - making it once piece and adding a little more bracing to eliminate some of the slight flex.


Plot with G-code generated from Inkscape with: thingiverse.com/thing:16424

I recently built the Ninja CNC kit from CNCSNAP.com. They include some pretty good harware but I wanted my machine to be able to cut heavier material. So i began making upgrades to the machine. I replaced the laser cut motor mounts with HEAVY DUTY 3D printed ones that are probably a little "over" built. But stronger is better right? I also designed a very robust tool holder that fits the motor they supply with the kit. I love this tool holder, it works great. Note: you will need to drill a hole in the end of the clamp to bolt it together. I recommend a small diameter machine screw. Next I stiffened up the guide rods with a set of support claps on each rod. I made them slightly under sized so you will need to run a 1/4" drill through them. My "Y" axis coupler broke so I replaced it with thing 7059. I can't find the corner bracket file I used to stiffen up the frame but I'll post it when I do. I also bolted together my "Z" carriage because it wanted to split with putting the tool holder one it.
If you have any questions or want me to make other upgrade/ design changes just let me know.
Thanks and I hope you put these files to good use.

youtube.com/watch?v=GYD6TE_If6U

Home wind turbine based on a NACA 4412's profile with an optimized twisting

zbrush sculpt

Deliver up to 6 Spices onto your Meals like a Boss!

Saw a pic from a asian desinerpage with a similar approach.. and designed my own rightaway.


Wont Fit a ToM but try scaled down.

all need some outer support.

This is my project to create the most powerful, and opensource portable pc. I'm still in highschool so if you feel like you can help out please do so.
If you need to contact me comment below.

this is a proof of concept in the use of driving more than 2 filaments (3 here) using 2 motors. one motor drives the filament while the other drives a cam that pushes the filament into the drive shaft.
i am currently preparing to test this, but wanted to get it out there. current issues are that is does not have good access to the drive mechanism for cleaning or feeding filament and that much of it was designed to be machined instead of printed. the side plates are to big for a cupcake, but i ws able to print a few of the pieces on one. it may also not be compatible with other motors until there is a redesign, as the motors are integral to its strength.
if anyone has improvements, let me know.
EDIT: added an IGES assembly file(let me know when you find its broken, and how to fix it) and SW2005 part and assembly files. also added an exploded image
EDIT: lookes like this has been worked on a bit already by wildseyed thingiverse.com/thing:10783 . not sure if i should list it as derivative.
Finally got more than 1 hot end functional at a time, so to check out the filament drive in action see youtu.be/CVaYHlLkvWM
and youtu.be/yqAGEqaoPg4


it works! all 3 filaments running:
youtu.be/po8KyagUsY4
youtu.be/-X-azhcsqdM

A 2-part, hinged, bolt-on holder/fixture for affixing a small packaged sensing device (in this case a custom WIMU) to a round shaft or bar allowing it to be easily attached to golf clubs, tennis racquets, pipes, cylindrical bar stock, walking sticks etc.

This is an experiment with different ways to connect multiple pieces of a model together. The model is a hollow sphere which has been split about 3/4 of the way along one axis. I then added different structures to reconnect the two pieces together. I put the male component on the larger piece of the sphere because that seemed more mechanically challenging.

One model uses a simple peg-in-socket design. Nothing but friction holds the two pieces together, and I found that a difference of 0.5mm to 1.0mm in the diameters of the pegs and sockets gave good results with the vagaries of my printer.

The other model uses a more sophisticated clip design with a half-sphere on one side, which mates to a similar socket on the cap. Here I found that a 3mm thick clip gives a good compromise between strength and flexibility.

The inspiration for this part is to aid in calibrating the X axis within .02 mm or .002 in of accuracy.

i am trying to design a ATX PSU adapter for a reprap,

i am really looking for feadback on this one to make it better

this is a box for the sparkfun serial enabled lcd kit,

mine was a snug fit but your mileage may vary.

This is part of the tweet controlled ping pong ball launcher made for the BBC world service radio show "Click"

This is the 5th redesign on the device, as designs that included a hopper were prone to jamming.

A video of it in action: youtube.com/watch?v=iPG-ji3zt7A

ElectricLaboratory.com

After several years of a relationship as well as lots of research, reading, designing and several rounds of prototypes it is time for a big decision to be made. Here is the engagement ring I presented to my intended recently as well as a brief description of it and the design process.

The design is based on a Tiffany Etoile Solitaire Ring and features a 0.31C internally flawless round brilliant Tolkowsky cut Fancy Intense Blue (Boron Doped) Cultured Diamond set in a flared semi-bezel crown of 950 Platinum-Iridium on a D-shaped "Court" Band of 950 Palladium-Ruthenium.

It seems most goldsmiths & jewellers I talked to prefer not to work with Palladium, multiple-metals, custom designs, stones they have not purchased themselves, cultured diamonds or non-white diamonds. This design features all of these so getting a goldsmith who would work with me on this project was tough and it was barely finished in time. Getting the diamond was also a challenge, as it was held up in customs for several weeks leaving very little time for the goldsmith to actually make the ring. In spite of this the end product had excellent workmanship and looked fantastic!

As a side note, the pictures don't do the stone justice, it is really sparkly and appears a deep blue in bright light.

Changes from previous version:
1.0
- Changed dimensions to those used in the final version
- Changed Band to Rounded hemi-ellipse type
- Removed second crown
- Added a bowtie cutout to the ring band for the mount to sit into
- Made the crown section taller and raised the diamond with it to better show it off and prevent the cutlet or point of the diamond from protruding from the hole at the bottom of the crown

This OpenSCAD script will generate a single part rack for mounting multiple double-stacked 25x25mm Radio->USB "base station" PCB units. This allows the units to be easily slid into the enclosure where they will be held securely by friction and locked in place by micro-USB plugs which attach at the side. These racks will be acetone-welded into commercial ABS enclosures for a professional looking, low-cost and secure medium scale technology build.

This would be of use to someone who wants a modular system for securing multiple stacked PCBs within a larger enclosure in such a way that they can be readily removed.

Changes from previous versions:
v0.6
- use rounded cuboid for USB plug cutout to attempt to prevent roof from falling in
v0.5
- fixed cutout for USB above thicker shorter section by placing difference operation across entire union operation
v0.4
- added support to thicker section to help it print properly at large z values
- added cap and cutout for USB above thicker shorter section
v0.3
- added support to thin section to help it print properly at large z values
v0.2 2011-12-13
- make base thinner
- make tray walls taller
- remove tray lip
- a 4 base station unit with mouse ears in a hollow cuboid tray
v0.1 2011-12-13
- first attempt a 2 base station unit with mouse ears in a hollow cuboid tray

Juan Miguel García Haro
Pablo Marín Plaza

Universidad Carlos III de Madrid
Departamento de sistemas y automática
Máster de Robótica Industrial

In order to improve the tool OOML (http://iearobotics.com/oomlwiki/doku.php), we built this motorboat from libraries OOML whose they are written in C++. The MOTORBOAT is developed from zero and it is not based on any model previously developed by other programmers. We only use the code .SCAD of a propeller, to build our propeller (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8688 ).

Here is a video of the MOTORBOAT (in spanish):
Pulleys:
youtu.be/dUqTDfMHCe8
Gears:
youtu.be/C185LOEoUI0

Test in water:
youtu.be/0xFm2y-97Ts

All code is written by QtCreator program, this program can work in parallel with OpenScan program order to view the process of developing of the different parts.

The MOTORBOAT was divided into three parts. The first part is the physical structure of the MOTORBOAT and is intended to float on water. The second part is based on mechanical system pulleys and belt and is intended to transmit power to the propeller. The third part is based on other mechanical system gears and also aims to transmit power to the propeller.

The gear code has been parameterized to function as a new library OOML.

To supply power to the mechanical system we used a motor DC that is activated or deactivated through a switch.

Finally, the attached codes are. "STL" files. It also includes a ".RAR" file which includes all the generated files (."CPP", ."SCAD", ."STL").

Additional things.
To assemble the physical structure of the motorboat, we need:
Waterproof adhesive.
2 flange to hold the motor.
To assemble the mechanical system based on pulleys and belts, we need:
2 M3x10mm screws.
10 M3 washer.
2 M3 nuts.
1 square section belt 80Øx2.2mm.
To assemble the mechanical system based on gears, we need:
2 M3x10mm screws.
2 M3x20mm screws.
2 M3 nuts.
14 M3 washer.

I whipped this up after seeing what this person >>> (http://www.thingiverse.com/nervoussystem) made. It has to be scaled before you print it

This speaker is a quick mod of thingiverse.com/variador 's tripod mount. It had such an amazing pressfit I thought it would be cool to see if I could make it into a speaker. Print it out plug your phone in and listen to your beats out loud!

For a video demo check this out:

A set of Roman Numerals.

Seeing the other tesla valve, I was pretty certain that the same principle could be extended to 3D. I came across a more symmetric, optimized design of a tesla microvalve at senlin41.org/topology-optimization-of-tesla-type-microvalve/ and traced it.

The following is a trace of the optimized valve in openscad with added support to make it printable without overhang or flying parts. Parameters allow you to set the coarseness of the rotational extrusion ($fn=32 works fine for me), and the distance of the support bridges.

I have not printed or tested that yet, so I suggest you start with the scad file and adapt it to your needs.

Build platforms are sensitive to changes in temperature and can affect your prints. After testing a few iterations here is a design that is ready to share; I call it the Bot Window. I know what your thinking, what a creative and catchy name. :) Ok, truth be told its a simple but effective design that consists of acrylic panels to cover three sides of the bot (left, right and rear (and gets bolted on using left over MBI parts).

This summer the space I was in had a non-controllable AC where temps were around 55F, yes you read that right, (95F outside at the time). After blocking off air vents to decrease windflow in the room and covering three sizes of the MB (left, rear and right) with cardboard the temps went up to the 65F range. Using a make-shift hood on top (think barn roof) this got me to the 69F+ range and more importantly back to good prints without lifting of edges from rapid cooling.

With drafts from outside and windows in the new space the window panels have taken the chill off the platform (reduced draft) and keeping me in the mid 80's consistently. This design is based off of the MBI TOM MP887 Rev-I design file and will rest on top of the cover plates of the rods running from front to back.

If you have access to a laser cutter or know someone that has one, this will be quick work.

Panels were cut courtesy of my friend Angus Hines (http://www.angushines.com), thanks Angus!

I sketched this out in SketchUp today and thought I would share. I took my influences from Sal Buscema, Michael Golden and Butch Guice on the direction of the render as well as the original toy designed by Bing McCoy.

This is numbers made with the font "Marked"

The numbers are 100mm tall.

To test an 3D Printer.

Hello everyone, first of all I want to introduce myself. My name is Raúl Pérula - raules.wikispaces.com/Inicio - and I am student of Master in Robotic and Automation, University Carlos III of Madrid.

This project belongs to the development project of OOML - iearobotics.com/oomlwiki/doku.php -. OOML is simply a C++ empowered OpenSCAD. If you want more information enters OOML oficial website and inform yourself, sure you will be passionate the project and want to collaborate.

Using OOML I have made a library of objects to form structures with blocks. I have created different types of blocks to have considerable diversity. There from the simplest block, which is a simple piece consists of a cube with two linkers (a hole bottom and a top flange) to more complex blocks with different shapes such as L or T.

I have done a video showing how you can use this thing so useful. The pieces are not very accurate but I think when 3D printers improve and accuracy is not a problem can be made large structures.

This is the link:

youtu.be/adEJ_Kpa5xo?hd=1

This is a Pencil holder made of methacrylate. It have 3 pieces but you do not need glue.

Se trata de un portalapices hecho de metacrilato. Esta formado por 3 piezas que encajan unas en otras, se puede montar y usar sin necesidad de pegamento.