This is Clyde from Pacman, the orange Ghost.
You can print this object in three colors, even with a monochromatic 3D printer. Infact The design is divided in three main layers.

Modification of a £1 shop push button light.

Button Moved (optional) and top created top to hold a bowl.

It's a knob for your toe. Fits potentiometers with 1/4" shaft.

Use this rocking laser pointer mount in place of a dial gauge in conjunction with the z-wobble calibration feature in the latest firmware to measure and eliminate ZWobble (periodic banding) in prints on the Solidoodle 2.

Bring the heated bed of your Solidoodle up to temperature twice as fast with these parts, some sheet cork, and a little plywood or mdf. Cork has good insulating properties and is relatively heat resistant. This mechanism is designed to auto-retract, meaning that you can leave it unattended on the lowered bed and it will flip safely out of the way when the bed raises up to print.

Printed Paint roll to customize your tapestry.
This hacking project was made in collaboration with ADEO a group that owns many tool brands such as Dexter. We brainstormed as a team and came up with many funny ideas to hack products selected among a thick catalogue.

I got to work on printed accessories for standard 120mm paint rolls.

This is hack for the Senseo Sarista coffee machine by Phillips. The machine uses a kind of bean funnel that dispenses coffee beans into the machine. Unfortunately these bean-funnels are kind of expensive. +Deksel (www.plusdeksels.nl) makes it possible to hack the bean-funnel so that it has a removable lid. This makes it possible to refill the bean-funnel with your own coffee beans. Saving you money and saving the environment from hundreds of thrown-away plastic bean-funnels!

This is a replacement side panel for the Tenergy TB6AC universal charger that includes an improved 25mm fan mount. This is a great $70 charger available at Fry's for all Lithium, Pb, Ni-Cd, and Ni-MH batteries. The stock side plate includes a cutout for the fan, but nothing standard will fit (probably the reason no fan is included).

This is a printable depth gauge that mounts to the top of the Solidoodle2 extruder/print head, and can flip out of the way when not in use. It has an integral floating needle that moves back and forth when pressure is applied to the bottom probe end. Its pivoting mount may also be modified to hold felt tip pens and possibly other slim accessories.

This hack keeps the Solidoodle extruder head from wobbling when making rapid Y-Axis movements. It moves the lower teflon retainer block on the X-Axis carriage to a spring loaded arm that keeps the back of the print head from bouncing up. This also keeps prints from being distorted when printing near the back of the print bed, where force from the cable assembly can sometimes tip the print/extruder head.

Célèbre hack de Salvador Dali de la stature de la liberté

The Cateye Velo 5 and 8 are nice cheap and small bicycle computers that have a big button sticking out the front. If you hold down the button for a few seconds it resets most of the data on the unit.

It's far too easy for stuff to accidently press the button and erase your ride data when the computer is in a bag or pocket. That's why I made this little laser cut glue-on part on that makes it harder for random objects to press the button. It doesn't get in the way when the computer is on the bike.

DXF now uploaded, as promised.

Upgrade part for Nerf Praxis to allow slamfire

When i produced "Proof of Concept" a couple of weeks ago, i wanted to make this new piece rightaway, but circumstances and a bad export out of Meshmixer conspired to void this effort. i finally found time to print the entire "Lion-Screw" body last night.

Pretty happy with the results so far. Next iteration? print both parts in 2 colors? that could be fun. Attach screws / threads in less obvious places.... ?

This is a total hack building upon jamesvilleneuves Bolt / Nuts v 1.5.

Basically i want to build sculptures connecting individual modules together using a variety of fasteners and connectors. For the first project i wanted to use threaded screws to connect two objects together. Given all our work with scanned heads and such i thought it would be interesting to have a head screw on and off.

i have started trying to learn openSCAD so this project by jamesvilleneuve was perfect to build off of. that said my openSCAD skills are not mad skills yet, so i had to resort to a nice little hack instead.

Thus in tinkercad i made a "positive" nut to boolean out of the "top" of my model. u can DL this here. thingiverse.com/thing:33253

Then i simply booleaned together the actual nut into the space left by the positive. then joined the head and the actual nut together, et voila!

Apps: Netfabb, Tinkercad, openSCAD, RepG Sailfish

Printed w. Sailfish, 200micron, 180 mms

reprap prusa rigidity wall hack. it takes minutes and not hours to print and mount. This has been attached for over a month but it took me until now to take a picture.

While searching to eliminate some of my problems this did the trick in eliminating the main source of wobble: Bolt it to a wall!
It seems kind of hacky since, and it is. I had a psu mount bracket laying around, bolted it to the wall at the correct height. My z axis smoothrod snaps on to it making it really easy to remove my reprap from the wall whenever needed.

Oh and because it is so hacky you even have to drill the extra hole ;)

Good luck reinforcing your frame with the aid of a wall.

How to program a fractal snowflake pattern directly into a CNC milling machine.

My ToM was making a lot of noise from the filament vibrating, enough that it bothered me. I came up with this simple hack that solves that problem. My ToM has been much quieter since, with no noticeable effect to print quality

I had trouble printing the pipes for the Cyberman head because the vertical (when mounted) sections are hollow. I filled the pipes using OpenSCAD but couldn't get it to render both models together so I had to go through the following process:

1. Line everything up in OpenSCAD but only render my "pipe filler" parts of the model. Export as STL.

2. Open the original STL in Meshlab. Open my "pipe filler" STL as another layer.

3. Select Filters --> Layer and Attribute Management --> Flatten visible layers.

4. Save new STL and upload to cloud.netfabb.com.

Use linear bearings with your original wood ToM X Carraige!

This plate will hold SW6 / LMB6UU linear bearings to your existing plywood X-carriage by clamping down on the snap-rings that holds the bearings.

You can even install it without removing the X carriage from the belt...

I regularly print at 120mm/sec now!

A 3D printable adapter to turn a Craftsman automatic hammer into a bead grinder for use with DNA extraction.

I call it the Smash-o-Tron 3000.

I wanted to hack, so I literally hacked the top off my ToM.

I assume someone must have done this before, but I can't see one in Thingiverse.

There is a plan... ... (hushed tones) I'm going to make the X Carriage run to its full potential
i.e. the belt length between the pulleys - approx. 160mm. and the Y carriage run to the front of the machine approx. 130mm.
This should give me a build platform of 150 X, 120 Y and 120 Z without much trouble.
I'll need to print using PLA so that I don't need all that space heated, but I don't think that will be a problem.

I'm afraid all the people who use this in public will need to put HOT warnings on the exposed parts, but it's not as if they were behind glass before.

For those of you who don't wish to chop the top off your ToM, you can still use this carriage mod to give you 150 x 80 x 120 prints.

I wanted to display a "ShutUp&Hack" as during the UnlimitedDesignContest ( flic.kr/s/aHsjvcr15A ), didn't had the file and can't find something like that on thingiverse or the web...

So I remade it quickly :)

(the "-120" are a little more packed to be stronger)

Based on Jetty's buzzer Support (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16170), this hack uses a common household wireless doorbell system (instead of a piezo buzzer) so when your bot is done printing it triggers the receivers to chime throughout the house. I have two wireless receivers in different locations in the house linked to the makerbot. A different sound is triggered by the bot than by the actual doorbell (could be confusing otherwise!)

It's handy to have a small rack to hold PCB's while you're building them. This little rack is printable in sections of 4. The racks snap together with dovetails, and have screw holes for mounting to a large board.

This speaker is a quick mod of thingiverse.com/variador 's tripod mount. It had such an amazing pressfit I thought it would be cool to see if I could make it into a speaker. Print it out plug your phone in and listen to your beats out loud!

For a video demo check this out:

This requires the makerbot 3d scanner "cyclops" kit. It does not allow derivatives but it is located here... thingiverse.com/thing:4271

Sorry for poor documentation but the text and photos should be sufficient for those who are interested.

These printed parts are used to help the Optoma PK201 Pico Projector fit into the laser cut plywood housing of the Makerbot Cyclops 2.0 3D Scanner.

The wheel part allows you to adjust the focus of the projector whil it is in it's housing. It needs to have a rubber band or o-ring placed around it to give it sufficient grip though.

The cube part is placed against the bottom right rear corner of the scanner as you look into the lens, and acts to keep the rear of the projector in the correct location.

Some modifications are needed to the laser cut plywood parts too to accommodate the non-standard projector and these additional pieces. The hole on the rear panel needs to be enlarged, a hole for a bolt to hold the 3D printed focus wheel needs to be made in the bottom panel, a wide slot on the right panel needs to be made for the edge of the focus wheel.


The bolt hole for the focus wheel is 3mm in diameter with its centre 26mm from the front edge and 10mm from the left edge of the bottom panel
The slot on the left panel is 8*30mm with its bottom left corner located 20mm above the bottom edge and 13mm from the left edge.

The enlarged slot on the rear panel is 20*62mm with it's bottom left corner located 13mm above the bottom edge and 32mm from the left edge.

You will also need to enlarge the hole in the front of the device to allow the lens from the pico projector to project properly. The hole should be rectangular about 20*15mm starting 18mm from the bottom edge and 45mm from the left edge of the front panel.

Method for constructing a Negative-Pressure Activated-Carbon Fume Chamber.

Eliminate ABS fumes/smell when ventilation to the outside is not an option.

Compatible with HBP and APB.
Costs about $35 and runs at about 4 Watts.

I've been creating a sculpture, the Anywhere Organ anywhereorgan.tumblr.com , for the past year or so. It's gone through many iterations, modifications, revisions, and changes over time but is finally coming together into a predictable, robust sculpture.

I designed these parts as a system to take salvaged organ pipes and create them into a huge extended instrument, networked together and controlled by MIDI. Organ enthusiasts have been saving dismantled pipe organs from the dumpster for years, but many don't have the time or resources to use all the parts they acquire. I've found they've been very eager to have me take random or incomplete sets off their hands. As my own collection grows I'm hoping to add to the Anywhere Organ, eventually having the mobile equivalent of a cathedral organ I can take anywhere from an underground cave, to an abandoned theater, to a fire escape and play.

I've been doing a Kickstarter trying to raise funds for the next bigger, better version. Please give it a look, tell your friends, and donate. kck.st/anywhereorgan

All of the DXF's are designed to be cut centerline on an industrial laser out of 3/4" nom. (.719") indoor plywood.

This document was created as a way to release what I've learned and built through designing the Anywhere Organ. It is not intended to be a tutorial. It is intended to help folks get on their way to building their own organs, laser cut instruments, and huge awesome things. At some point I may tutorialize, but the path to the design I now have has been so long and winding it is difficult to put down concisely into a Thing.

A screw came loose on the metal baseplate of our dishwasher and I couldn't manage to get the screw to line up with where it seemed like it went. So, I whipped up this little doohickey to hold the baseplate in place.

It's a quick OpenSCAD hack. Not sexy, but it works.

From the time I fired up OpenSCAD to printing was probably about 10 minutes total. I printed slow and steady. OpenSCAD firing up to fix was about 30 minutes total.