Here are the LibreCAD (.dxf) files I used to laser cut a flat surface out of 2mm aluminium/steel. It has mounting holes for the PCB heatbed mk2 (http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed) using M3 screws. Due to it's superior thermal properties to glass, it heats up faster and to large temperatures then glass, in addition to being perfectly undistorted. It is important to cover it with kapton tape (painter's tape might work, but personally i haven't tried it), as ABS and PLA WILL NOT stick to bare aluminium.

This is a upgraded Aluminium build plate for the Ultimaker 3d printer. This plate is 6mm thick, with a 2mm cut out space for a reprap PCB HBP.

Files included:
solidworks drawing
solidworks part
solidworks drawing .pdf
.stl

*NOTE*
You will require a mill to manufacture this, i'm currently waiting for mine to be made at the uni's CNC mill. - will post a update when complete!

This is a newly made glass clip to hold 8" by 8" regular window glass you can buy at the hardware store to the bed of a Printrbot +. For some reason the clip this is descended from didn't clip it tightly enough. This is made from scratch but I got the idea from the other glass clip.

Edit: This was designed to work on a Printrbot + V1 with the bed leveling springs addon. I don't know if it'll work with the V2 or without the springs as the size of the clips might interfere with other screws.

A 3D Printed Case for mounting the Beagle Bone to the TurtleBot.

This is a Work In Progress. It was a built in kind of a rush, so I'll be uploading more details when I can. The temps in the office fell to below 50F after the heater broke. The builds were de-laminating and generally poor quality. The heated build chamber tends to maintain at about 50C and all my prints since then have been great! This is the best quality I've ever gotten and not a hint of warping. I'm worried about cooling for the motor and extruder and will be hooking up an air pump to the extruder shortly.

I used a small heater I picked up from the thrift store to heat the chamber. It's called the "Worlds Smallest Big Heater" from the Sharper Image and it works great. I Imagine the extruder and the platform would heat up the chamber if you didn't have a heater, but I liked having the option. So far it has worked wonderfully well. I have the heater on an outlet timer to turn it off after a while, if prints are left un-attended or I forget. It has a high and low setting. I've been using High and get about 50C build chamber temps.

I've left the base of the printer out of the chamber because that's where all it's brains are. There is a slot on the top of the chamber where the filament feeder tube runs. The spool mount is bolted on to a piece of ply above the rear of the printer. It would have worked better to use the usual mount, but I moved the location of the printer which made the usual mounting location un-usable.

The front and right sides are doors. After using this for a while I am very glad I made them as big as I did. I'm also glad I left extra clearance space all around, especially vertically. This is very helpful when working on the extruder. If you were building one, I'd put a third door on the other side as well, but I ran out of plastic in the scrap pile. The doors are acrylic and I think the sides are either acrylic or polycarb (thin sheet).

I made a custom build platform which is wider than the stock UP! build platform to accommodate the bulldog clips which could be struck by by the extruder during large prints before the modification.

The actual build tray is GRP which has been scratched up with a knife. I'd like to use the CNC to make a better looking tray but this seems to work well enough for now. I've never had a print raft lift from the platform after I started spreading a thin mixture of ABS dissolved in acetone over the build tray every 10 prints or so, or after I clean the tray.

I've uploaded my Wall Thickness Tester stl because I was required to upload something not an image. The thicknesses start at 0.1mm and go up by 0.1mm incrementally.

I used my CNC machine to mill an aluminum plate to fit using the stock Ultimaker bed bolts and springs.

This is the file I used to create the G-Code for milling. And some brief instructions how to get it working.

I selected 0.25" mill finished stock from 80/20 surplus on ebay. I got enough material to make 2 beds so I can swap them in and out.

This is a processing sketch that generates Eagle BRD files for a heated bed based on parameters you specify. You can make it whatever size you want and use trace widths and spacing as needed to get whatever resistance you want.

THIS HAS NOT BEEN TESTED! I suggest making a small cheap board with an easy to measure resistance like 50 Ohms or so, ordering it through a cheap service like BatchPCB, and verifying that the calculations were correct! Throw on a cool design and you can make coasters out of your example boards. :)

This sketch uses Processing 2.0 (not 1.5, though it could be modified for that - look at the XML handling) to generate a native eagle BRD file using their new XML format, so everything is nice and clean.

Generate a board file, look at the Processing output window to see what the resistance, current, and power draw will be based on your input voltage (I can't guarantee those numbers are correct! I haven't tested this yet and I admit I wrote it pretty quickly - its more of an example. You should double check the length calculation section of the code - god forbid I messed something up and you waste money on a bad run of boards!)

The files are hosted on Github, so check there for any updates:
github.com/tlalexander/ReprapHeatedBedGenerator

This is a derivative of Prusa's excellent PCB heatbed. It has two major additions.

First, it has a place to solder a surface mount thermistor with pads on the side to connect to the electronics. Hopefully we won't have to tape a thermistor under the bed anymore.

Second, there has a spot for a surface mount right-angle LED on the side of the bed instead of soldering a normal LED facing down like the Mk1.

This is a simple reprap enclosure which also serves as a heated build environment. It gets up to about 35-40 degrees C just from the natural heat of the reprap as measured on the inside-top with a laser thermometer.

As a bonus, this seems to keep ABS smells in, and now that I've added a scrubber, even the inside isn't bad.

Turn the thingomatic with a HBP into an automated printing machine as if it had an ABP for no extra cost

Want to make a plate of some kind to match up with your fancy MK1 heated bed?

Well, its pretty easy to download the excellent and free EagleCAD software to get the measurements, but from the comments it seemed quite a few people weren't savvy to that, and even then, exporting DXFs is a bit funny (File->Run->dxf.ulp) so I figured I'd continue my habit of converting things (I've learned how to convert just about anything into just about anything else) and just go and do it for you!

More info at:
reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed
and
thingiverse.com/thing:3919

This is a modified v1.1 Thingomatic Heater Board which has a tab with through-hole pads for soldering and securing the Molex KK 0.156" harness connector as well as the motor connector. This provides a much sturdier mounting point for the wiring connectors, making it much harder to break the connectors off along with their pads. Additionally, this layout has no vias and uses wider traces to the motor connector and to the SMD components. (The heater traces are the same widths and left unchanged other than the removal of the vias.)

In the v1.1 r0 version, the connectors are soldered to SMD pads and accidentally bending the Molex connector up or down can leverage its pads right off of the board.

While this PCB addresses the mechanical problem with the attachment of the connectors, it does not address the problem associated with overheating of the plastics in the connector shrouds or their mating plugs -- particularly the HEATER- and +12V wires on the wiring harness. To address that problem, instead solder some teflon jacketed wires to the pads (v1.1 r0) or the through holes (v1.1 r2) and then make a pigtail connector or similar. Teflon jacketed wire can take the heat and if you run several inches of it, it should be enough to dissipate the heat before mating with the wiring harness. You can get a small spool of the stuff at a good price in the US from bulkwire.com; the through holes for the Molex connector will easily accommodate 14 gauge wire.

Note that the tab is 10.81 mm (0.43") deep and as such will add that much additional length to that side of your heater board. [The tab seen in the pictures is 2.54 mm (0.1") longer than the one in the attached Eagle and Gerber files.]

BTW, there is no "r1" that I'm aware of. For whatever reason, I accidentally produced my board with "r2" on it. Cest la vie.

A BatchPCB design is available at
batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=78232&check=38563f546fc5198d95b69e6810006a8e

**NOTE: if you are looking for Gerber files for the original Thingomatic Heater Board 1.1, see Thing 16459,

thingiverse.com/thing:16450

It's no secret to owners of Emaker Huxleys that the heated bed has a design flaw. Many owners, including myself, have experience multiple failures of the heated bed.
emakershop.com/forum?vasthtmlaction=viewtopic&t=276

IMHO, it's not if but when the bed will fail. I decided to design my own replacement bed for the Emaker Huxleys despite already ordering the ReprapPro Huxley's PCB bed.

Reason being that the PCB bed is not a drop-in replacement for the Emaker Huxleys. Changes to the Y-axis is required and the thermistor tables are different too.

This bed is designed to be a drop-in replacement and has a larger build area that will allow actual printing of the promised 140mm x 140mm area.

One of the problem when coming up with the design is determining the resistor to use. Indeed there seems to be no guide to this. For my case, I used my rusty electronics knowledge and some guesswork.

First, determine the power wattage for the bed. 90-100W seems like a safe bet, and since the Emaker Huxley's power adapter is only rated to 120W (19V). It's best to give some allowance. Obviously, if your bed is huge or uses a thicker aluminum, you have to compensate for that.

So current, I = 90W / 19V = 4.74A

Resistance, R = 19V / 4.74A = 4ohms

I decided to use 6 x 15W resistors to spread the heat more evenly, but I believe 4 x 25W will work too. So roughly 4ohms / 6 = 0.66ohms each.
singapore.rs-online.com/web/p/products/107-3560/

I also got some high-temp hook up wires.
singapore.rs-online.com/web/p/products/177-0952/

You can use back the original thermistors that came with the kit but just for reference, it's this one.
singapore.rs-online.com/web/p/products/528-8592/

This is a heated build platform I made at home with things I had laying around. It works.

A HBP made from stripboard. The only trick is finding a supplier of large enough stripboard. I had to try it out before I sent boards out as prizes for the contest. thingiverse.com/thing:11497. Wouldn't be much of a prize if it didn't work. :) The PDF below is just my pathetic attempt to draw the solder connections I used to wire up the board.

Update: Made some measurements to help the designers out there. With three strips ganged together as in the PDF soldered in a long series trace across two stripboards the current at 12V is 10 amps cold and 8.2 amps hot. That gives you 120 Watts cold and 98 watts hot. So that means that the total resistance cold is 1.2 ohms, and individual strips have a resistance of 0.13 ohms. To calc. that I had to assume that the two wide buss strips were equivalent to 3 ganged central strips. So 0.13 per strip and about .04 ohms for each of the two wide strips on the outside.

So 4 ganged together should give about 0.13/4 * 9 = .3 ohms + 2*0.04 = .38 ohms per board or .38*2 = .76 ohms for a prusa bed giving 16 amps cold and 189 watts at 12V.

5 ganged together would be .13/5*7 = .182 ohms +2*.04 = .262 per board and .52 ohms total for the heated bed. Giving 23 amps at 12 V and 275 watts.

6 ganged might be "OK" for 5V at about .3 ohm and 17 amps (5V) but it might not get that hot at only 85 watts. (I'm thinking at 5 or 6 you will probably want to think about pairing the bus strips on the sides with a couple normal strips to keep the heat even across the board.

7 ganged would probably work pretty well at 5V at about .22 ohms 23 amps and 115 watts. (same here use 2 or 3 strips ganged with the wide bus on the side. )

Well, that was quite an extrapolation so don't trust the numbers too much way up in the 5,6,7 gang calculations.

This is a heated bed for a repstrap that is intended to be an alternative to a proffessionaly fabbed board.

I made this board because it is often hard to get large sheets of copper clad, and if it is, they are often more than one repstrapper may be willing to pay, especialy on a first machine.

Currently, the design below gets between 70C and 90C (under glass) when pulling ~5.79A @12v when etched onto 2oz/in copper clad.

The Prusajr’s PCB heatedbed is a very interesting commercial piece for its simplicity and performance. The problem is that it doesn't fit perfectly with the design of the Y-Axis of Reprap.

Due to heat, expansion, and fixation at the four corners, the platform could reach warp. To fix this I have set the platform under an 3 mm aluminum plate to provide rigidity and protection. The platform is placed upside down, where hotter. The protection of the upside PCB is replaced by the aluminum sheet.

The group is supported by two vertical pieces that together with plastic bushings Igus slide on the Y-axis guides.

These vertical supports are designed to be easy to assemble and disassemble the set of PCB heatedbed and aluminum plate, in order to unload parts or perform cleanup.

The belt is fixed directly to supports pieces. It has also included a threaded hole with M3 for a screw to tighten the belt easily.

Redesing 6-Nov-2011

I made ​​some modifications to work better. Added two pieces of rod 8x145 to join the uprights, has increased the height of the uprights in 5 mm, and gaps were placed to hinder the transmission of heat.

I've also uploaded some photos, some can see the changes that have made my Prusa, now called Prusa Air. You can see more in: reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_Air

I saw prusa's excellent heated bed, but the dimension was too large for the blank stock I had available, and there were too many narrow traces for an easy home etch, so I designed a different one.

Dimensions are 200x200mm, hole centers are 190mm apart.

Design resistance is 0.95 ohms. Etch from 1oz (36um) copper to get this resistance.

Gives 150w from a 12v source, and consumes 12.5A.

I've had my bed up to 140°C before, and didn't want to take it higher for fear of cracking my glass or damaging the FR4 PCB material.

Simple heated bed.

A simple 6mm thick Heated Build Platform. This was designed to make my ToM more reliable. As I have been dialing in the Z height more accurately recently I have encountered issues due to slight warping of the HBP's PCB and have had a few occasions where this has resulted in failed prints, removal of Kapton tape from the HBP surface and damage to the HBP itself. As I increasingly leave the printer to do its thing unsupervised and place it in the hands of others I wanted a more reliable surface to ease my mind. Designed in 5 minutes in AutoCAD using the ToM's laser cut acrylic build surface CAD files from here thingiverse.com/thing:4973 and featuring countersunk holes on both sides for 6x M3 machine screws and filleted edges all around. I hope to use this as the base of a new ABP I am working on in future too.

I didn't want to solder the wires to my heated build platform. I was also afraid that using 3 pin and 2 pin headers would, they would come apart or get damaged while printing. It's also hard to grab those little suckers in the back of your bot.

This connector slides over the wires and a full length 10 pin female header and holds everthing in place tightly. I put a little hot glue on the wires, but it really wasn't necessary. This not only provides support and strain relief for the solder connection, but also provides a good surface for your fingers to purchase on for taking the connector on and off when you need to access the HBP - like when you want to remove or apply painters tape.

Build to the max: Add inches to your build platform, and avoid hitting bolts by buying the parts to make the Thing-O-Matic's Heated Build Platform work in your Cupcake CNC.

This is a PCB Heatbed for the eMAKER Huxley, but should work on any 3D printer which has a 140x140mm print area.

Thanks to prusajr for the information provided in his PCB heatbed, thing:2172, from which this thing is derived.

Track widths are set to give 4.5Ohms at 25C, rising to 6.6Ohms at 150C (for standard 35um copper cladding). For a 19v power supply, this gives a power output of between 80W and 54W.

Hotproceed製オリジナルホットプレートです。

発熱体には交換可能なシートタイプを使用。
サーミスタはグラファイト系基板に半田付け済み。
コネクタに配線を一個に集約。

シンプルな構造にしました。

This is a smalll breakout board featuring two logic-level MOSFETS for driving any sorts of heaters, DC motors, solenoids etc. It has been successfully tested as a spindle driver with 32 KHz PWM and a 27 V power supply.

I haven't seen any problems with noise / signal stability (tested with an Arduino duemilanove).

The MOSFETS are placed on screw terminals to simplify replacement operations just in case some experimental manipulation happens to release the magic smoke.

Please note that the schematics and pcb drawing files are in gEDA (not Eagle) format.

Integrated heat, temperature sensting, and motor control

The Thingomatic Heater Board is mashup of innovative 3D printing techniques. The heater board fulfils a number of roles in the Thingomatic. First, it provides a nice, flat printing surface with mounting holes. Second, the PCB itself is one large, flat heater which provides very even heating across the surface. Third, the PCB includes an on-board thermistor which allows the board to measure its own temperature. Last, but not least, the PCB includes a header for connecting it to the rest of the MakerBot electronics so that you can easily wire it up.

I was having issues with warping and decided to build a heater to try and prevent it. I ordered everything through omega.com.

This was used with thingiverse.com/thing:4772

If Makerbot and Reprap had a demon child-

This is a beast. Built with both the reprap and makerbot as references.
The biggest concern i had building this, was getting it to work with ball chain instead of belts, and with a lot of back and forth testing this out it finally works like a charm.

I had a 440x300mm heating element custom made by some "expert", that ended up not to spesifications. The result was only 80°C, so i had to figure something out so that the ABS wouldnt end up curling,
and wet sanding sheet was the answer. Now the object sticks to the platform like tongues to metal during wintertime.

I got it up and running with just prints from a makerbot, but now some of the pieces are remade on itself.

This is still just a prototype and a work in progress.


Specs:

Size: 800 mm (W) x 800 mm (D) x 600 mm (H)
Build Envelope: 500 mm (W) x 300 mm (D) x 250 mm (H)
Platform: Heated to 80°C
Surface: Wet sanding sheet 600 grits
Drive system: Ball chain (3.5mm)

Mendel Acrylic Build Platform with holes for MakerBot Heated Build Platform