Fully parametric (untested, it works for the parameters as they are set)

The provided STL are fine for a handlebar where the stem clamp measures 46mm, the diameter of the handlebar is 25mm just next to the stem clamp and 22.5mm of diameter some 15mm far away from the clamp.

The bicycle of my son...

Has: removable mudguards.
Has (had) not: a way to mount lights on it.

This...

Is: supposed to be screwed on top of the rear mud guard.
Is not: parametric :(

I needed a cheap way to add a light to my prusa, and couldn't find a cheaper way than hacking a usb light from ebay with a bendy cable.

A fancy lamp with room to add your own wiring to.

Improvements since the prototype:
1) Split up into four parts to allow for larger printing. Assumes a max build height of 8.5-9ish cm.
2) Base parts have threading so they just screw together. Top part is now printed upside-down to give it a nicer exterior surface.
3) Holes for wiring and adding switches.

LED light Guide

This will fit on a standard LED.

Any image can be added to the light guide and the image will light up when the LED is ON.

Similar to a small edge lit sign.

I made this when I had to replace my desk lamp's light socket and found that the new shaft was different than the original.

A holder for a 12v 60mm ring light. Designed to clip on to the 40mm fan on Greg's LM8UU X-Carriage: thingiverse.com/thing:9869

Inspired by ScribbleJ's design for the Makerbot: thingiverse.com/thing:6244

This is a lamp made ​​from the same form that repeats. I used the color black to white top and the bottom, so you get a better projection of light.
Se trata de una lámpara realizada a partir de una misma forma que se repite. He utilizado el color negro para la parte superior y blanco para la parte inferior, de esta manera se consigue una mejor proyección de la luz.

Winter is here, and sometimes you need to add a little bit of light :)

A friend (thanks Stephane!) gave me 100mm of LED, something like that bit.ly/yBIRM6 from ebay but cheaper.

To hook it to the bot I tried some shapes and, finally, since it's adhesive stripe, ended to this simple thing that clip on M6 rod (having the Huxley in mind).

4sec off/on video : flic.kr/p/b8qHNk

10sec video to see what it's look like when printing :
flic.kr/p/bbeQCD

This is a test run for an organic lamp shade for a small night light...

The $8 Ikea "Not" lamp is a great cheap floor lamp, and I've got several at home. I realized though that a few of the lamps I have would be nicer if they didn't need to rest on the floor, so I designed and printed this simple bracket that allows you to mount one on your wall. Its 6 5/8" long so its no good for a MakerBot, but it fits great on my Ultimaker and I think RepRaps could do it too.

Mine was printed with .35mm layer height (the "Low" quality profile in NetFabb) and 4.9mm infill spacing. Its a bit springy but I wanted a quick print to make sure it would even work. I'd recommend tighter infill like 2-3mm spacing for less springy-ness, which will be apparent when you switch it on, if you don't use a switched outlet.

Ikea lamp is here:
ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10139879/

But they have plenty of cheap wall sconces, so this is more for those who want to convert an existing lamp. I do want to say though that I'm pretty happy for coming up with a real useful 3D print here.

This is a frame vertex for Mendel / Prusa Mendel using less material than the solid version. I know there are other attempts of vertexes - so this is just an additional one.

There is a version with feet and one without.
For a Mendel / Prusa Mendel, 6 vertexes are necessary. You can print two without feet and four with feet

Comments are welcome!

--> Please mind: this is for M8 rod!

Comments after the first print:
The vertex without feet weights 12 grams.
I printed it in ABS with 4 shells, 0.35mm nozzle, and with relatively coarse infill (you can see the infill on the picture of the vertexes while printing).
If I calculate that weight back to filament length it tells me that it takes about 1650mm of 3mm feedstock to print one of these.

Comments after the second print:
Printed the version with feet now.
Again in ABS, this time with 2 shells, 0.35mm nozzle, same coarse infill and they are 11 grams. They feel really robust but I did not screw a frame together yet so still needs to be tested if two such thin shells are ok.

Clip this light onto your Kindle 3 and read in the dark! I have plans to use a smaller battery and make an enclosure for the electronics, so it looks nicer. Or if anyone would like to make a derivative that would be awesome!

Inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:7018

I drew this from scratch and spent quite a while tweaking the model to have a fuller more natural look. It helps if you can keep the "branches" from cooling too much while it loops them around. If they go stiff too fast, then the branches don't droop down enough and it ruins the effect.

I had to slow my printer down to 20mm/s to avoid serial port errors causing it to crash, which of course allows the branches to cool too much before letting them drop. Putting a towel over the printer helped trap the heat, but I think it looks better if you can print it at around 35-50mm/s

A prototype for a Consumermas gift which I am making for a relative.
The final version will be a bit bigger; and the base will feature a usb port which will power some LEDs.

I plan on printing the base in black PLA, and the vase in clear PLA.

Also, there is a hole on the bottom of the vase, which sockets it to the base, and also is present to facilitate wiring.

Light up the inside of your Makerbot Thing-O-Matic! This mounting bracket supports an LED module that was originally designed to be used as a replacement for halogen (12VDC) lamps. The screw holes on the brackets match the hole spacing of the "unused / extra" rod support on the top front of the Thing-O-Matic. Inset nuts allow easy installation. You don't even need to make holes in your Thing-O-Matic!

This thing is a quick release bicycle headlight using magnets.

Checkout these video for a demo ...
youtu.be/8rBtbKnmoKw
youtu.be/pFVRycwWcl8

This is a hold for some LED lamps that I got of Ebay. Like this one: ebay.co.uk/itm/290614569497, it may have gone by now. But I am sure there are similar ones out there.

Source available from my github repo as well github.com/choffee/things

This is my first real thing so it's pretty basic. It clips onto the upright of my Brompton handle bar so that my light is the right way up. You can change the sizes of various parts in the top of the scad file and it should scale. I had to split it in two so that I could print the arch. Suggestions welcome for how to do it without the split.

Source files on github: github.com/choffee/things/blob/master/right_angle_bike_light.scad

PROBLEM! Your totally sweet bike does not currently emit enough light to allow you to ride in the dark without endangering yourself and/or your aformentioned totally sweet ride. What to do?

Well, there are a number of options open to you: you could hoard radium and staple it to your pedals, but that might cause things to glow in situations where it's not appropriate (for instance, secret missions). Glow sticks can be tough to find in a pinch, and taste horrible. Purpose-built bicycle headlamps can cost an arm and a leg and aren't really useful outside of bicycle-bound illumination.

In an effort to redress all of this, I've created an adapter that allows you to attach a small flashlight to the handlebars of your very own bicycle. Get a good standalone flashlight, and attach it to your bike only when you need a light! I use a 4sevens Quark Mini 123, but practically any small flashlight should fit.

This thing prints just fine without support, even if the geometry looks a little weird.

Is also based on the following things:
- thingiverse.com/thing:9805
- thingiverse.com/thing:2537
- thingiverse.com/thing:5506

This 3d knot with lighting.
3d knot can be removed, and in its place install something else .
In the dark looks cool.
The picture is not quite accurately captured image.

Forget on/off, custom 3D print a lightswitch so you can control every appliance or light in your house.

Houses and commercial premises have big banks of light switches. I can never remember if the third from the left is the kitchen fan or the light.

Using 3D printing you can create lightswitches suitable for complicated environments. This design uses thin sections that allow the switch to flex onto a membrane switch. The design includes a standard grid for the membrane switches - any suitably qualified electrician can wire it up for you.

Designed by Adam at thebeehive.net.au

This is a series of nightlight covers for anxious types and insomniacs. Suitable for use in our neurotic times. They snap onto a standard $1.99 nightlight from the hardware store.

There were a lot of possibilities for subject matter in designing this. I finally settled on these four:
1. Economic Instability (or Your @$%$*! Mutual Funds)
2. The Lawyer Next Door - (Maybe he's trolling Thingiverse looking for your Lego or Tintin Derivatives) (Sorry I don't have the resolution to get the Porsche logo on the sunglasses)
3. Bedbugs! (Are you itchy or is it...?)
4. Argument That You Lost in College - This one comes from a study that I read about a few years ago where they interviewed Yale students to find out what they were thinking about in times of introspection. The researchers were surprised to find that they weren't thinking about sex as expected but about winning arguments that they had lost. Hence the ultimate humiliating College Intellectual put-down - "That's a Tautology Dude!"

Some outtakes include:
Did I Unplug the Makerbot?
Arcane Skeinforge Settings
Fried Twinkies and Beer Dinner
Your Family
Weird New Weather
Cousin Hank's Political Views
Massive Solar EMP!
Weird New Politicians
The Top 1%
The Bottom 99%
Cher Earworm

25mm and 26mm ring to snap lights on my bike (the old were too small)
In case you have something similar (sketchup file included)

This is the largest printing project I designed so far... we call it the ScoopLamp! It is a lamp made of only printed parts, it doesn't need any tools to assemble (if well printed) and no glue or screws (only a piece of steel wire or a cable tie to fix it on the bulb holder).

The Lamp on the photos is printed with a 0.5mm nozzle. I used PLA silver for the segments and white ABS for the rings. One element took about 7 hours to print on my setup :)

A servo motor construction for light and movement fun. The name Hex-a-Fnord is based on the hexagonal base structure and 6 moodlights called "fnordlichtmini" (see wiki.lochraster.org/wiki/Fnordlichtmini for details)

My intention was to have a light-installaton with moving wings holding moodlights. The wings themselves are controlled via servo motors.
So we have 6 servo connectors... perfect for an arduino with 6 PWM-outputs. And if you use LEDs or, as I did, the fnordlichtmini, then the light can be controlled by an serial bus system.

Oh by the way: Of cause you can move each wing separately.
This thing however just describes the construction. I used 4mm plywood, which is recommended in this edition. A laser cutter is helpful but not mandatory.

Electronics and holes for light are not included, just add it to your needs.

A 3D videoprojection screen based on a Dodecahedron dome. I created this for the "Spielplatz" exhibition of photography and video art at Raststätte in Aachen/Germany (http://raststaette.org).

The projection is done using a simple DLP projector and a hemispheric mirror. Using the hemispheric mirror I'm able to fully project onto the whole dome from the inside with just a single projector. Here is a great video by Michael Kowalczyk of the Projectahedron in action:

vimeo.com/28900633

In this first version the projected image is severely distorted. I'm planning to measure/calculate a correct mapping function for the system which eliminates the distortions. You will be able to display undistorted images on the faces then.

The Dodecahedron was created using variations of the great OpenSCAD scripts from thingiverse.com/thing:9359 .

If you want to install or exhibit my Projectahedron anywhere, please feel free to contact me.

This is a new shade for my Candlestick lamp (see link above for what this piece is derived from - a twist on maglite operated lamp). The shade was designed as a stylized, almost toony candle shape meant to evoke the idea of a candle and not to reproduce the real life shape. Some spirals sculpted into the side, inverted perspective shaping, and the suggestion of the wick complete the look.

lamp shade

I tend to sit in darkened rooms (working on my internet tan) but wanted to be able to see my Mendel print so I made this very simple bracket to mount CCL lamps to a mendel.