For this Valentine's Day: a DNA playset. This'll probably only go over well if your significant other is a biologist. But, hey, reproduction is sexy, right?

Thanks to Wikipedia and the hard work of many scientists to measure tiny molecules, this is an accurate 35,000,000:1 scale model of DNA. It's a playset because you print out copies of the four nucleotides (A, T, G, and C) and snap them together into whatever sequence you like.

This part was made with Tinkercad. Edit the part online at: tinkercad.com/things/bvFpjOw28tI

Another Filament Guide

This is a laser pointer I made up on the fly, it's a simple print for the body of the pointer and the laser diode and driver are bought online. This design works with a standard 13mm dia. diode module and two AAA batteries.

If you've done a lot of soldering lately, then you are familiar with using metallic brillo to clean the tip of your soldering iron. More efficient than a sponge or water, it's a quick and efficient means of cleaning the tip.

I gave away my holder last year, and sadly, Fry's has not carried replacements since. Frustrated after a year, I created my own simplified version.

Thank you to Padawan for the great assist and patience on 8 revisions, for something so simple.

The guys at Moving Brands challenged us to help them print their own Chocolate Advent Calendar in a month.

We already knew about the Frostruder, and had most of the parts to build a RepRap Prusa, so the solution seemed obvious. They ordered a Frostruder, and we got busy building their Prusa.

Things got exciting when we tried to mount the Frostruder to the Prusa carriage - it was just too big and bulky!

Luckily, inspiration struck. We stripped down the Frostruder to the bare bones, and used the Prusa to print its own adaptor.

Lo and behold, chocolate printing goodness!

Moving Brands Advent Promotional Video: vimeo.com/33775105
Moving Brands Advent Calendar: movingbrands.com/advent

Someone I know is hand-making a game that uses hexagonal pieces. They are using epoxy modelling clay and other miniature figure making materials. When I saw they were cutting the bases by hand I offered to print simple plastic bases for them or make a convenient hexagon "cookie-cutter" so that they would line up with each other better. These pieces are 33mm along a side or 66mm from two opposite points... so they are smaller than Catan pieces (which are 45mm on a side and 90mm across BTW), however as the script is parametric it could be modified to make compatible tiles.

Changes from previous versions:
0.3
- Added proper comments and cleaned up code
- Implemented Parametric Variables
0.2
- switched to using 6 sided conical frustrum
0.1
- First attempt using extruded 6-sided polygon

I've found that the x idler pulley tends to ride up against the top y carriage wood. This creates noise and other problems.

There are bearing and belt holders and all manner of x axis improvements but I've yet to see one to fix this. The idler rides up due to the belt being pulled up to mesh with the x carriage belt teeth.

My solution is to customise the teethes position to match the belts natural path.

This is based off of Joakim's x follower openSCAD file so it can match its customization for a perfect x axis sliding action, print his and mine as they replace 2 separate parts.

All comments and suggestions welcomed, heck just comment

I really like thingiverse.com/thing:7820# it's an elegant solution to the spool management problem. It's cool the way that it attaches to the top of the machine, taking up a minimum of space.

Sometimes though, the filament has to move at an awkward angle, so I designed this additional bracket to tilt the spool and give the filament an easier time.

Adapt your lovejoy connector to your Nema 17 5mm rod motor. I was sent the wrong one so took the opportunity to create the Love Joy 5mm coupler for the World. Fits perfectly on the 5mm Nema 17 Stepper motors. Fits a M6 Nut and Screw.

Download V2 Version.** Alot Stronger than V1

This is a cleaned up version of the printed clock we were able to make during Clockathon #2 last weekend. Thank you Makerbot and Bre for setting that up and hosting it, and thank you Ben for all the help, the awesome test print all set up, and the brilliant idea to back off one gear for the power drum.

It was ticking, powered by a weight that would only drop about 9" per twelve hour period, and included printed concentric shafts to support minute and hour hands on the face of the clock.

Here's some video: youtube.com/watch?v=AH4Tg2tIgfg
I had to inflict grievous harm to the code base at the time and have cleaned everything up since. See details below.

cyclone to catch the spray while purging/cleaning an airbrush.

Using a cyclone seems to be the obvious choice for this, but you cannot buy one.

A simple Heart Hugger, now when valentine is coming up. It shows the simplicity of LOVE.

I tried to make it, so it required the least amount of support, I'm unsure about the hands and the edge around the heart and fingers though.

After reviewign my original design of a sphere inside a cube, I decided to make a pyramid inside a cube. Simple design, but I appreciated it. There does seem to be one side of the pyramid that doesn't print for some reason. Sorry for that, but it at least gives it character!

Simple friction based mount for copal motors (used here on 30's & 60's) ... currently i don't see the need for a top piece to hold the motor in place, it's wedged in there pretty good, but there is room to mount a top plate in the future if needed.

This is a half-size version of Stefan's double-size minifig, with added attachment posts – you may have to shave the posts to get them to fit.

This is a simple safety mechanism that I designed to prevent a stove from being turned on when people lean against it.

When I have parties in my apartment, people tend to lean against the stove and accidentally turn the gas on. Obviously, this is bad. The Stove Stopper 3000 fits snugly between the knob and the stove face-plate to prevent the knob from being depressed, and therefore, from turning.

This is just a simple design that can be used for a number of things. Most commonly the commercial equivalent of this is used to blow air or liquid over tools on CNC machines, drill presses, etc. I am thinking of using it as an articulated arm to hold camera flashes off-camera and run wires through the center. Anything is possible.

Feel free to post up modifications, as this is tweaked to the fraction of a millimeter for my specific machine to be exactly as tight as I wanted them to be.

Note: I break a few here and there when putting them together. This is to be expected, and possibly thickening up the "neck" would fix this. I print 3 x 2 using multiply so this isn't a huge deal to break one every now and then.

EDIT: I uploaded all three resolutions. The highest is what made the links in the picture, but you may have similar luck with the other two resolutions. Thanks!

This is a rail mounted Endstop for use with Makerbot v1.2 Mechanical Endstops on a 16mm linear rail. Simple, solid construction. The Perfect way to stop your 3D printer from destroying itself is to add this Endstop mount. Not only does the mechanical switch turn off the motor's movement but the mount doubles as a physical stopper.

Mount Just Updated* 2/8/12
-Stronger
-Recess for Solder points

This is a TinTin-Cartoon-Style Rocket for 3D printing. It was inspired by the thing thingiverse.com/thing:4509 by twotimes. It is not a derivate since it was completely rebuilt/drawn from scratch (nevertheless was it inspired by the version published by twotimes which is a really nice and large model).
My aim was to make it really easy to assemble and print. It consists of 12 printed parts only and just one threaded rod and two nuts are necessary to assemble.

Tech. Data:
Height: 160mm
Biggest part (max. spred x/y/z): 67mm/75mm/55mm
Threaded rod dimensions: M3 x 125mm
Nuts: 1x M3 Nylock / 1x M3 standard nut

Hint:
Scale all parts by factor 1.272727 to get a M4 Version - will be 204mm high and use a M4 rod of 159mm and M4 nuts. Should still be printable on a makerbot (largest spread of foot-part will be 97.5mm). You will perhaps like to redrill the holes for the m4 rod with a 4.2mm drill (or lightly rework with a round file) for easy assembly...

It is a Snurtle! It's a pet monster decoration. It has no funcitons, but to look good :D

I made it for the 3D artist/Makerbot contest. Please comment and give me advice or new creative ideas for another model :D

Regards
Sebastian Stripp

Pets are great! Pet hair in everything you own is not so great. After recently receiving a Pogoplug with all of it's bounty of usb ports, I thought it would be silly to leave them to fill with dust and dog hair. I made this simple insert to help keep dirt, dust, and dog hair out of the socket.

Parametric hinged and bolted attachment for square bars

This OpenSCAD script will generate a 2 part holder to attach a Tyndall WIMUv3 to the upright square cross-sectional posts on the moveable sled part of the assassin trainer at Bath University. The size of the bar it is attached to can be parametrically varied

Todo:
test fit and adjust
add "wiggle" for bolts and captured nuts

Warnings:
None

Note:
You will need to also have the modules mouse_ears_test.scad, pivot_1_0.scad and rounded_cuboid_v2.4.scad in the same directory or your library for this to compile correctly

Changes from previous versions:
0.4
- Adjusted position of cutouts around hinge and bolt clamp so that they dont go all the way through the wall to make for easier printing and drilling
- Made hinge pin larger to make it easier to insert hinge pin without drilling
0.3
- Added option to add device holder on side or not using use_holder variable
- Fixed large clamp part so that it has correct internal dimensions
- Increased height of small cutouts on long side of WIMU hodler so that activity LED can be seen
- added comments
- Moved everything up onto the build plane
- Fixed some translate issues where bar_stock_l and bar_stock_b were mixed up
- Moved the hinge and bolt side cutouts so that a thin piece of material would connect the 2 halves
- Moved the mouse ears into the union and differecne operations applied to the main clamp body
0.2
- reduced individual parts count by using the pivot module only twice and using cut lines to split it up
0.1
- First attempt

This is a modified v1.1 Thingomatic Heater Board which has a tab with through-hole pads for soldering and securing the Molex KK 0.156" harness connector as well as the motor connector. This provides a much sturdier mounting point for the wiring connectors, making it much harder to break the connectors off along with their pads. Additionally, this layout has no vias and uses wider traces to the motor connector and to the SMD components. (The heater traces are the same widths and left unchanged other than the removal of the vias.)

In the v1.1 r0 version, the connectors are soldered to SMD pads and accidentally bending the Molex connector up or down can leverage its pads right off of the board.

While this PCB addresses the mechanical problem with the attachment of the connectors, it does not address the problem associated with overheating of the plastics in the connector shrouds or their mating plugs -- particularly the HEATER- and +12V wires on the wiring harness. To address that problem, instead solder some teflon jacketed wires to the pads (v1.1 r0) or the through holes (v1.1 r2) and then make a pigtail connector or similar. Teflon jacketed wire can take the heat and if you run several inches of it, it should be enough to dissipate the heat before mating with the wiring harness. You can get a small spool of the stuff at a good price in the US from bulkwire.com; the through holes for the Molex connector will easily accommodate 14 gauge wire.

Note that the tab is 10.81 mm (0.43") deep and as such will add that much additional length to that side of your heater board. [The tab seen in the pictures is 2.54 mm (0.1") longer than the one in the attached Eagle and Gerber files.]

BTW, there is no "r1" that I'm aware of. For whatever reason, I accidentally produced my board with "r2" on it. Cest la vie.

A BatchPCB design is available at
batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=78232&check=38563f546fc5198d95b69e6810006a8e

**NOTE: if you are looking for Gerber files for the original Thingomatic Heater Board 1.1, see Thing 16459,

thingiverse.com/thing:16450

This is an apparatus designed to allow three people to conveniently type out a specific phrase: it is as it is

Each person must time their actions specifically, and operate their portion of the device with care.

This device was made to be a performance at a local art-event. Its operation is (of course) far from convenient, but it does type out the most true thing I have ever known.

This is specifically for my toaster oven, but would work with other models with similar knob types.

This is a subset of the parts needed for a full Test Jig #4, modified to try concentric metal bushing/shafts instead of bearings on those gears that need to support hands on the face of the clock.

A shield inspired by the one used by the 300 Spartans at Thermopylae. This type of round shield is called a "Hoplon". It is from this word that the term "Hoplite" is derived. It has a Lambda (presumably for "Leonidas", their king) embossed on the face.

I needed to fix my filament tube to the driveblock.
This thing snaps right on the driveblock and your tube will be fixed!

I made a large flower press for my wife a few years ago when we were engaged so she could press ferns for our wedding invitations. She enjoyed it and how they came out. The other night we were discussing pressing flowers and how her big press was too big for doing just a flower or two. I decided it would be a fun idea to make a printable flower press. It's pretty basic but it will do the job.