Universal Filament Spool Roller that Should work with any and all spool sizes.


Our Print Settings:

Printer: Makerbot Replicator 2
Layer Height: .15mm
Infill: 100%
Support: No
Raft: No
Material: PLA
Speed: 120mm/s (Sailfish Firmware)
Temperature: 210°C
Slicer: Makerware

Holder for a clipper lighter that can take any string of characters.

One has "Light My Fire" written on it (taken from a new and popular band The Doors).

One has Hello World written on it, which is a geeky phrase used normally in your first application version.

One has There is Another written on it, which is a phrase from a new science fiction movie!

Please let me know if there are any other phrases you would like, or I can upload the SCAD file and make it customisable (at some point)

This is a fully printable side cover for Replicator 2. It is printed in two parts.

This project is based on Cornell's research into 3D printable ornithopters. For instructions, a flight test video, and other file versions visit my instructable page for this project: instructables.com/id/3D-Printed-Ornithopter-Micro-UAV-Drone/

My Build plate arm reinforcement is done.
The arm is a lot stiffer now.

The system has 8 parts that need to be printed out for one side and 3 carbon fiber 8mm square rod parts.
Also you need 35 screws per side.

Those 8 parts is assemble to 4 parts that will hold the carbon fiber rod in place.
The carbon fiber rod is 3 parts that will fit into those plastic part that you printed.

Those 4 parts is fasten into the arm with plastic plugs that you expand with a screw.
This make the whole system to be bolted on the arm without any damage on the arm.

It will make the arm a lot more stiff and I hope it will also prevent the arm to warp due the heat and time.

To make this system you need this for each side .
Print out the plastic parts.
29 screws to the covers.
6 screws ( shorter) to the ex-pander plugs in the parts.
350mm long 8mm carbon fiber square rod.

I did spend totally $15-20 for both sides.

After you have printed your parts, let them cool down.
Then measure them so the channels in them is max 8mm.
If its bigger then the carbon fiber rod will be to small and the whole system will not work.
How good the parts will be depending on your printer, slicer and your settings.
If the channels is to small you can always use a file to make them a bit bigger, but do NOT make them bigger then 8mm wide.

Also if you print out the arm plug part first you can measure that and do what needed to make the part to be as good it can, before you print the rest. You will also know what screw size you need.

The hole is 3mm in the bottom part and 3.5mm on the upper part.

It did get better then I did think it would be. It will not flex much at all.
To be true the back round rod that the arm is on do flex when I push in the front of the arm.

cool

This is a creation of a replica of the all famous Dark Knight bat signal used in the films and comic books. Obviously it is disproportional to its actual size, its much smaller then the actual one.

cool hat to put on your bot!

3D Printed enclosure proposal for the smartcitizen.me/ PCB environmental monitoring project. 2 countersunk M3 bolts are needed as well as the corresponding hexagonal nuts

So i came across Robosavvy's automated removal system as i was already working on one. So i scratched my system temporarily to make a sweeping guard that would work for the replicator 1 dual extruder. Unfortunately the sweeper gaurd for Robosavvy's design would not work with the replicator one dual or single extruder.

So i designed a part sweeper that not ony works great but, easy to print and as well as takes the place of the spacers for the extruder fans.

When printing this part out you may have to work the screw holes a bit as I designed the guard to be a tight fit so there would be no play.

This part was not designed to be printed in abs, PLA ONLY!

This is designed for printing only in PLA as ABS parts on a heated build platform can become stuck at times. This could potentially lead to damaging your printer if trying to use the part removal system while printing with abs.

When printing with this automated system do not try this with prints with alot of contact surface area to the build platform. This systems works well with small parts that can be tipped over then pushed.

To push the part forward you need to find the line with :(******* End.gcode*******) in the gcode file and add the following code before that line:
G21 (set units to mm)
G90 (set positioning to absolute)
G1 Z150 F1000 (lower build platform)
G1 X0 F1000 (move to center left to righ)
G1 Y75 F1000 (move to rear)
G1 Z50 F1000 (raise to 50mm)
G1 Y-75 F1000 (push part)
G1 Y75 F1000 (move to rear)
G1 Z20 F1000 (raise to 20mm)
G1 Y-75 F1000 (push part)
G1 Y75 F1000 (move to rear)
G1 Z1 F1000 (raise to 1mm)
G1 Y-75 F1000 (push part)

If you have taller parts you want your first sweep to contact the very top of the part to knock it over so you may need to adjust the code above at that time in the z axis to match that heigth.

You only need 2 passes in this process. The first pass knocks the part over. The the second pass sweeps and pushes the part into collection bin. The collection bin can be anything a bucket or a box does not matter.

edit the code snippet above as necessary for different heigth.

To make the system automated just recopy your gcode from the begining to the end of the part removal code for how many parts you want to make.

Print, Install and Enjoy :)

Youtube video of system in action:
youtube.com/watch?v=oZYAt69Swsk

paper weight

I've gotten significantly better results with this new slicing profile. This profile is for ABS plastic. To print with PLA I use the default slicing profile, cover the build plate with painter's tape, and change the build plate temperature to 20 degrees Celsius.

I made door stopper looks like a cat .
I printed by Cube3Dprinter.

After googling around a fail to find any schematic and pcb for this TOM safety cutoff REV-D, I took thingiverse.com/thing:12467 makerbot safety cutoff rev-c and modify it.

Thus is just a customized Replicator front panel by garyacrowellsr thingiverse.com/thing:71276. I put an "M" as he Makerbot logo to fill in the empty space.

I used HarlanDMii's "write.scad" thingiverse.com/thing:16193 to place the "M" and sawdusty's "Inkscape font4OpenSCAD extension" thingiverse.com/thing:50444 to make the DXF for the font.

Solve problems with filament spooling correctly on your MakerBot Replicator 2. This is an adaptation of bluejay117. Just added more of an overhang so that the filament doesn't tangle and feeds more smoothly. Also added a stop inside so that the feed tube doesn't move.

Original from; thingiverse.com/thing:64667
Ideas from: thingiverse.com/thing:29528

Got some cheap Jet filament from Amazon. It doesn't fit stock or any spool holder I have seen. So I designed this one to work with all the spools I've, Makerbot, SainSmart and Jet.

The CAD image is V2, which has R, L indicators are added. R, L correspond to R, L printer heads. Photos are of a previous version, prints with PLA.

This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online tinkercad.com/things/kA29GNnKj5I

iPhone case for the Maker in mind. This case is for the iPhone 4 and 4S. Also, the case has the MakerBot Logo to fully sponsor the 3d printing industry.

This is another slight variation of the original.

USB Bracelet

This is a slight variation of the original.

USB Bracelet. See my other "things" for variations.

Look at your hands.

Hands are complex tools that grant humans a superpower, the power to transform imagination into reality. The power of our hands is unlimited. We can use them to throw a ball, climb a tree, or build a tool.

Not everyone is fortunate enough to have two hands.

Robohand is an open source tool created to help restore the superpowers of humans who are missing the fingers from their hand. The original version was created by Richard Van As and Ivan Owen.

One weak part on the replicator 2x is the cable to the x-stepper motor.
It will break sooner or later.

Put this Stepperpart on the plastic where the stepper motor is.
Then take the 2 cables and put them in the slot of the stepperpart you just fasten.In the edge of your replicator 2x you see the cable is fasten with a clip. you can release the upper clip so the cable get get more room and release some stress on it.

The start with the StepperChain.Start with the black cable and move it in the slots on the stepperChains parts.
After you done that you can fasten in on the StepperPart.

Now get the StepperFrame and put the cables in that. Fasten the StepperFrame to the StepperChain.

Maker sure the cables i in the middle and is not miss align anywhere.

Now fasten the StepperFrame to the replicator 2x frame. Make sure you have clearance, so no cable is damage.
I used double sided tape for this.

I could not find a gear/motor only kit for the Makerbot Botmobile (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13827) so I took the original drawing and extracted the 2 gears necessary to complete the drive train. All credits for the model go to the Makerbot crew who originally designed the car.

This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online tinkercad.com/things/6hPrxNow4mv

Tired of the old z axis shaft caps or worried that the the addition screws to hold the layers together may come lose? No more I sketched up a bracket that replaces the 2 removable z axis bracket with 1 long bracket and less screws. Less to go wrong and customizable in color. These were only made for the top I will be adding the lowers soon.

Just download print in the color of your choice and install?

7 months ago i saw JohnA post up his makerbot XL conversion and was indeed impressed. But it still lacked something that we needed at our store "more heigth". So I stretched the Makerbot XL drawings to make it into a MakerBot XLT. However there was still one big hurdle weight. Due to the current design of the replicator 1 being made out of wood it would oscilate with the printer head due to its light construction. So we had all the parts machined out of stainless to increase durability and weight.

So here we are about a week from completion on revision for the conversion and the remaining parts are about to be here. All that is left is the Z axis drive rod and z axis guide rods.

This conversion increases the z axis build height to 40" .

We will post up the files once we have completed the conversion.

My proposal for an Smart Citizen Case

See the original project here:

smartcitizen.me/

and here

kickstarter.com/projects/acrobotic/the-smart-citizen-kit-crowdsourced-environmental-m

Child safety catch for cabinet doors and drawers.

UPDATE! I apologize! I uploaded the wrong back-end model yesterday, and just realized it last night when I tried to print it! :o I've uploaded the right models now, tested and working as of Tues 5/21/13. :)

This is a wand/protector for the Adafruit RFID Breakout Board that I'm using in my RiderScan project: adafruit.com/products/364

It's one of the best RFID/NFC breakout boards around, and since I'll be using mine in a Horse Barn environment, I needed an enclosure that could stand up to wear and tear, as well as be functional and easy to use. This is my 2nd attempt to make such an enclosure using Blender and my trust MakerBot Replicator - I have ideas for a 3rd design in the works now.

The board is made by Kevin Townsand of Adafruit, and is a particularly well-made product - really ahead of it's time. Branded with both the Adafruit and MakerBot logo's, this is my Nod to both of these fabulous companies - some of the best modelling I think I've done to date, and I hope the community finds it useful for your projects as well :)

And of course, you know where to find the MakerBot Replicator!! makerbot.com

I'm making updates to the handle today, and will post a new version soon!

Kris