For this Valentine's Day: a DNA playset. This'll probably only go over well if your significant other is a biologist. But, hey, reproduction is sexy, right?

Thanks to Wikipedia and the hard work of many scientists to measure tiny molecules, this is an accurate 35,000,000:1 scale model of DNA. It's a playset because you print out copies of the four nucleotides (A, T, G, and C) and snap them together into whatever sequence you like.

This part was made with Tinkercad. Edit the part online at: tinkercad.com/things/bvFpjOw28tI

The library paratslot.scad allows you to create parametric tslot and accessories.
even mix them in a single render.
Make tslot of any dimension.
30x30, 30x60, 20x40...

2012/02/10 fixed some bugs.

Todo:
add stepper supports,...

Two spirals protrude up from a smooth base. For decorative purposes only.

The Lemon looks nice as it is, but I wanted to give it some love...

These are some mods that I am working on, and these can be useful for any model, especially scratch-build dioramas

I will be expanding this as I get more ideas ;)

This is a cleaned up version of the printed clock we were able to make during Clockathon #2 last weekend. Thank you Makerbot and Bre for setting that up and hosting it, and thank you Ben for all the help, the awesome test print all set up, and the brilliant idea to back off one gear for the power drum.

It was ticking, powered by a weight that would only drop about 9" per twelve hour period, and included printed concentric shafts to support minute and hour hands on the face of the clock.

Here's some video: youtube.com/watch?v=AH4Tg2tIgfg
I had to inflict grievous harm to the code base at the time and have cleaned everything up since. See details below.

This is my entry into the 3D artist magazine contest.

I wanted to go with a steampunk feel to the monster. His legs and head are all posable.

I hope you enjoy him, and happy printing!

Painted a toy tank for wargaming and it clearly needed gattling cannons.

This part set represents my first attempts at using 3D printing for my model building hobby. After going through my sprue box for a model, I realized I had great upgrades for engines, but no engines to use them for...so I made one.

This also may be of use to scratch builders. More will be coming soon!

Also, this a major work in progress for me, so any comments or thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

This is a TinTin-Cartoon-Style Rocket for 3D printing. It was inspired by the thing thingiverse.com/thing:4509 by twotimes. It is not a derivate since it was completely rebuilt/drawn from scratch (nevertheless was it inspired by the version published by twotimes which is a really nice and large model).
My aim was to make it really easy to assemble and print. It consists of 12 printed parts only and just one threaded rod and two nuts are necessary to assemble.

Tech. Data:
Height: 160mm
Biggest part (max. spred x/y/z): 67mm/75mm/55mm
Threaded rod dimensions: M3 x 125mm
Nuts: 1x M3 Nylock / 1x M3 standard nut

Hint:
Scale all parts by factor 1.272727 to get a M4 Version - will be 204mm high and use a M4 rod of 159mm and M4 nuts. Should still be printable on a makerbot (largest spread of foot-part will be 97.5mm). You will perhaps like to redrill the holes for the m4 rod with a 4.2mm drill (or lightly rework with a round file) for easy assembly...

It is a Snurtle! It's a pet monster decoration. It has no funcitons, but to look good :D

I made it for the 3D artist/Makerbot contest. Please comment and give me advice or new creative ideas for another model :D

Regards
Sebastian Stripp

This is a subset of the parts needed for a full Test Jig #4, modified to try concentric metal bushing/shafts instead of bearings on those gears that need to support hands on the face of the clock.

This is one of the original dualstrusion files for the experimental dual MK7, modified from Belakor's design by MakerBot intern Will Langford.

This is my 3rd version of printable LM8UU bushings.

Prusa suggested to me that putting some spring/give in them could be a good idea, so I gave it a go.

They're more than strong enough to handle the forces they get subjected to, and as an added bonus they're far less likely to crack your X-ends when you insert them since they'll happily compress a little.

I replaced a set of my original bushings with these, they're still wearing in but seem to work great so far. It certainly solved the chatter problem I had!

PLEASE NOTE: ABS is not a suitable material for bushings. It's too soft so it has lots of friction and wears quickly. These printed in ABS would be a novelty only, not a useful part.

PLA works well, as will any other hard plastics.

volcom logo

These models are intended for additive manufacture too calibrate and match X&Y input to output. More to come.

Here is a radio tower you can populate with the inlcuded antenna dishes to broadcast TV, radio, etc to the world of minature figurines. They need entertainment too, after all.

I recently built the Ninja CNC kit from CNCSNAP.com. They include some pretty good harware but I wanted my machine to be able to cut heavier material. So i began making upgrades to the machine. I replaced the laser cut motor mounts with HEAVY DUTY 3D printed ones that are probably a little "over" built. But stronger is better right? I also designed a very robust tool holder that fits the motor they supply with the kit. I love this tool holder, it works great. Note: you will need to drill a hole in the end of the clamp to bolt it together. I recommend a small diameter machine screw. Next I stiffened up the guide rods with a set of support claps on each rod. I made them slightly under sized so you will need to run a 1/4" drill through them. My "Y" axis coupler broke so I replaced it with thing 7059. I can't find the corner bracket file I used to stiffen up the frame but I'll post it when I do. I also bolted together my "Z" carriage because it wanted to split with putting the tool holder one it.
If you have any questions or want me to make other upgrade/ design changes just let me know.
Thanks and I hope you put these files to good use.

youtube.com/watch?v=GYD6TE_If6U

this is so you can use the "Bearing spool holder by chylld"
thingiverse.com/thing:7001
with makerbot and other spools that have a counter bore on one side.

I added a cooling air jet directly to extruder gear assembly to prevent softening of PLA filament too soon, PLA is worst case (heat is transferred from motor and extruder hot block) this will hopefully apply to new main board upgrade where stepper motors run at even higher temperatures.

UP! extruder Mofification
1. Tolerant to material variances
2. Stable mounting
My best modification to the extruder has developed into;
• Replace "pressure" block holding "fixed position" feed roller bearing that applies pressure to keep filament in contact with extruder gear with new design 2 part adjustable constant pressure block and arm incorporating "Vlier" spring plunger to apply consistent pressure regardless of variances in filament diameter tolerances.

This replaces the stamped sheet metal mount between Extruder and linear slide saddle of an UP! printer with a machined aluminum mount incorporating alignment features to reduce bounce in nozzle when short quick movement in print head occurs.
An added benifit is there is a lot less ABS getting scooped up and burnt due to the wobble of the extruder moving so quickly.

These items are designed for use in a 1:24 scale (1/2-inch = 1-foot) architectural model.

These objects are custom modeled directly from the objects in my personal home, which I designed and built myself. However, they are common household appliances and construction components that can be used in just about any design.

More architectural objects will follow. Download the PDF for brief instructions on how to build your own 1:24 scale home model, and to see what other objects I plan to design for my model home.

The actual photos of my home are for model relation purposes. My 3D model of my home is accurate to within 1/64" in most areas.

2-7-2012: Uploaded a few more progress pictures of the project. I took photos of my TV screen, pellet stove window, and the "bricks" in my engraved concrete entryway, and printed them out on photo paper (to scale), cut them out, and glued them in the appropriate places. Looks great! :)

This is a smaller version of the filament drive made by Jag. I made this from scratch in Sketchup, but based most of it around his design, because the larger 3mm version worked well. This, and the 1.75 settings were all I needed to immediately get the thinner plastic working. Requires no extra support, they are built into the model.

If you have a day job most likley you have to wear a badge and one of these leash things so I decided to dress mine up a little with a snap on cover, I've started with a deadmau5 logo and plan to add more designs so I can change it with my mood for the day.

Uses the Icosahedron script from whosawhatsis, which was
kindly shared under a CC-BY-SA license also. Original script is available here:
thingiverse.com/thing%3A12097

This is a model of Bacteriophage T7, a model organism in genetics that has
been used for decades in labs. Through studying the behaviour of T7, we have
learned enormous amounts of information on basic genetics of bacteria. In times
gone by, elegant experiments with T7 helped us to map the E.coli genome, in the
days before we could just "read" the DNA with sequencing techniques.

These days, T7 doesn't get nearly as much attention, but it's still an incredible
micro-organism; a futuristic, spaceship-shaped virus that can lie in wait for generations
hidden in the genome of an unsuspecting E.coli cell, awaiting the day that it erupts
into infectious disease.

This model is available on Shapeways for purchase:
shapeways.com/model/452247/bacteriophage_t7_model.html

This is my project to create the most powerful, and opensource portable pc. I'm still in highschool so if you feel like you can help out please do so.
If you need to contact me comment below.

DrewPetitclerc's take on WindhamGraves' War of The Worlds Playset was great but needed to be made into plates for easy printing. Yes, it was easier for me to turn this into plates than it was to just print the parts. Oh well. I've also reduced them to 75% of the original to easily fit on a Cupcake.

The STL files are ready to print while the ZIP file contains the reduced versions of the individual parts as well as the openSCAD files to make the plates. The war machine plate will print one war machine while the tanks plate will print four tanks.

simple powder basket for my new hiking poles

This is a derivative of “World of Warcraft - The Lich King“ by mandun in the sketchup warehouse.
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=c2108ac26e7cec1046f463434f849d53&prevstart=0

I'm working on making both of those models easily printable. This one was much less involved hence it being first.

It's pretty much the same set of changes as the other models I've posted from the sketchup warehouse.

1. Removed unprintable details
2. Simplified other details
3. Stitched together some sections
4. Removed some self intersections
5. Mild 'artistic' changes (no more jokes about his belt buckle being his 'package'!)

I'll be playing him as my sub commander type model in my warmachine army. I haven't done his weapons yet and don't plan to for a while.

Note: Warmachine and the related terms are property of privateer press. This model is not intended to actually look like or be the model they provide but is simply my proxy for it.