You want to use your iPhone as a HD-Camera for skiing instead of buying an expensive one?

Fully parametric (untested, it works for the parameters as they are set)

The provided STL are fine for a handlebar where the stem clamp measures 46mm, the diameter of the handlebar is 25mm just next to the stem clamp and 22.5mm of diameter some 15mm far away from the clamp.

I liked the idea Michael521 had in his "Minimalist Spool Holder for MendelMax" thing which this is a derivative of. However, I think I made some improvements on it.

1. These clip very solidly to the extrusions.
2. No hardware! Ok, you do need hardware (the bearing), but there are no bolts in this design.
3. These use even less plastic.

Same as thingiverse.com/thing:14742 but for aluminum extrusion, like the MendleMax.

This is a plate to mount gen6 electronics on the side of a Prusa Mendel RepRap. It was designed to be cut on a laser cutter out of 3mm acrylic or plywood, but it should be easy to cut on a cnc router too.

Simple friction based mount for copal motors (used here on 30's & 60's) ... currently i don't see the need for a top piece to hold the motor in place, it's wedged in there pretty good, but there is room to mount a top plate in the future if needed.

This is just a simple design that can be used for a number of things. Most commonly the commercial equivalent of this is used to blow air or liquid over tools on CNC machines, drill presses, etc. I am thinking of using it as an articulated arm to hold camera flashes off-camera and run wires through the center. Anything is possible.

Feel free to post up modifications, as this is tweaked to the fraction of a millimeter for my specific machine to be exactly as tight as I wanted them to be.

Note: I break a few here and there when putting them together. This is to be expected, and possibly thickening up the "neck" would fix this. I print 3 x 2 using multiply so this isn't a huge deal to break one every now and then.

EDIT: I uploaded all three resolutions. The highest is what made the links in the picture, but you may have similar luck with the other two resolutions. Thanks!

This is a rail mounted Endstop for use with Makerbot v1.2 Mechanical Endstops on a 16mm linear rail. Simple, solid construction. The Perfect way to stop your 3D printer from destroying itself is to add this Endstop mount. Not only does the mechanical switch turn off the motor's movement but the mount doubles as a physical stopper.

Mount Just Updated* 2/8/12
-Stronger
-Recess for Solder points

Parametric hinged and bolted attachment for square bars

This OpenSCAD script will generate a 2 part holder to attach a Tyndall WIMUv3 to the upright square cross-sectional posts on the moveable sled part of the assassin trainer at Bath University. The size of the bar it is attached to can be parametrically varied

Todo:
test fit and adjust
add "wiggle" for bolts and captured nuts

Warnings:
None

Note:
You will need to also have the modules mouse_ears_test.scad, pivot_1_0.scad and rounded_cuboid_v2.4.scad in the same directory or your library for this to compile correctly

Changes from previous versions:
0.4
- Adjusted position of cutouts around hinge and bolt clamp so that they dont go all the way through the wall to make for easier printing and drilling
- Made hinge pin larger to make it easier to insert hinge pin without drilling
0.3
- Added option to add device holder on side or not using use_holder variable
- Fixed large clamp part so that it has correct internal dimensions
- Increased height of small cutouts on long side of WIMU hodler so that activity LED can be seen
- added comments
- Moved everything up onto the build plane
- Fixed some translate issues where bar_stock_l and bar_stock_b were mixed up
- Moved the hinge and bolt side cutouts so that a thin piece of material would connect the 2 halves
- Moved the mouse ears into the union and differecne operations applied to the main clamp body
0.2
- reduced individual parts count by using the pivot module only twice and using cut lines to split it up
0.1
- First attempt

This jig will hold a #2 pencil on your build platform. This is handy to hold a pencil in place so you can easily write on it with your Thing-O-Matic.

Write whatever you desire out of InkScape onto your pencil.

Check out the video of my ToM in action.

For Thing-A-Day Day 01 I created a pegboard suitable for mounting and testing gear trains and similar, using Tony Buser's fabulous Pin Connector V2 tools. I figured this tool might be useful for the MakerBot Clock Makers project and for educators and students looking to explore basic gear mechanics. This tool will become more useful as people (maybe you? maybe me?) generate tools to lock gears into place for heavier use.

Yes, yet another filament spool hanging device.

I realized if I attached the spool to the underside of the small wire rack shelf I have next to my printer for my notebook that I could put tools and other things on the space underneath it.

This should work for most types of wire rack shelving. This is set for a 90 degree hanging angle on a shelf 14" (356cm) wide. If your shelf is smaller or larger you might want to edit the .step files and change the angle of the rods. (Sorry, i'm not an openscad kind of thinker, heh)

I also wanted a way to easily change spools (I keep my spares bagged up so they do not absorb Seattle moisture.) So the spool "axle" just sits in the sockets which allows it to be easily interchanged with my other spools. The outside nuts on the spool rod are not tightened down, but rather I have 2 nuts on the ends of the rod acting as a cap.

I recently built the Ninja CNC kit from CNCSNAP.com. They include some pretty good harware but I wanted my machine to be able to cut heavier material. So i began making upgrades to the machine. I replaced the laser cut motor mounts with HEAVY DUTY 3D printed ones that are probably a little "over" built. But stronger is better right? I also designed a very robust tool holder that fits the motor they supply with the kit. I love this tool holder, it works great. Note: you will need to drill a hole in the end of the clamp to bolt it together. I recommend a small diameter machine screw. Next I stiffened up the guide rods with a set of support claps on each rod. I made them slightly under sized so you will need to run a 1/4" drill through them. My "Y" axis coupler broke so I replaced it with thing 7059. I can't find the corner bracket file I used to stiffen up the frame but I'll post it when I do. I also bolted together my "Z" carriage because it wanted to split with putting the tool holder one it.
If you have any questions or want me to make other upgrade/ design changes just let me know.
Thanks and I hope you put these files to good use.

youtube.com/watch?v=GYD6TE_If6U

this is so you can use the "Bearing spool holder by chylld"
thingiverse.com/thing:7001
with makerbot and other spools that have a counter bore on one side.

I added a cooling air jet directly to extruder gear assembly to prevent softening of PLA filament too soon, PLA is worst case (heat is transferred from motor and extruder hot block) this will hopefully apply to new main board upgrade where stepper motors run at even higher temperatures.

UP! extruder Mofification
1. Tolerant to material variances
2. Stable mounting
My best modification to the extruder has developed into;
• Replace "pressure" block holding "fixed position" feed roller bearing that applies pressure to keep filament in contact with extruder gear with new design 2 part adjustable constant pressure block and arm incorporating "Vlier" spring plunger to apply consistent pressure regardless of variances in filament diameter tolerances.

This replaces the stamped sheet metal mount between Extruder and linear slide saddle of an UP! printer with a machined aluminum mount incorporating alignment features to reduce bounce in nozzle when short quick movement in print head occurs.
An added benifit is there is a lot less ABS getting scooped up and burnt due to the wobble of the extruder moving so quickly.

Mount for standard servos that with mounting holes on front, back, bottom and sides. Holes are spaced on 8mm grid so it is compatible with Lego parts.

So for awhile now i've had one of the little metal stands to hang my brush and razor from, but it takes up alot of space, I suddenly realized I could build a better setup and hang it from the underside of one of the shelves in my medicine cabinet.

This replacement x-carriage should help anyone out who prints with pla. I didn't find one that I liked so I put this together to direct a nice cool flow of air to the upper portion of the hot-end. It takes a common 40 mm cpu/gpu fan and is a really clean method to attach a fan. I'm designing another one that includes a second duct to cool the E-motor.

I hope it is useful for everyone needing better cooliing for the hotend.

I've uploaded the final V4 STL called "xcarriagev4done_fixed.stl". It has been passed through Netfabb and is only 2.6 megs compared to 12.3 megs for V3. It prints nicely without requiring any support. The fan mount clears the diagonals nicely and the bushings fit well, too.

this is a mount designed for Prusa based machines. It allows for top mounting of filament spools. This particular model works with Ultimachine and 3D printerstuff spools up to 5lb.

A 2-part, hinged, bolt-on holder/fixture for affixing a small packaged sensing device (in this case a custom WIMU) to a round shaft or bar allowing it to be easily attached to golf clubs, tennis racquets, pipes, cylindrical bar stock, walking sticks etc.

I designed this with 123d beta - similar to autodesk inventor.
123dapp.com/
This mount is for a Sells Mendel and has the wade's mounting holes - I measured everything with a caliper to figure out the correct measurements :)...

Printed pics within the hour..and I will report if it has correct measurements or not. (I'm printing with a slightly incorrect mount right now with these linear bearings and they work a treat! - So smooth)

Rencio out

I have a set of Samson drum microphones. Naturally they get hit and eventually break. Here are nice replicas of the mounts used for this set. This is my First true makerbot-design, and as for most of my works, they need some trimming / slicing with a razor. Please be careful.

This is for mounting an Airport extreme vertically on the wall.

I made a larger one and a smaller one. I've tried my best to make it strong and not use and a ton of plastic. I think it came out pretty well. Currently printing the large version and its taking forever. I'll post pictures of the final result when its done.

I'm including the Solidworks Assembly file for anyone who might find it useful. The parts are saved inside of it.

This will allow a RAM Tough Tray II (netbook mount) to be attached to a standard camera tripod. I built it for netbook used when flying rc-aircraft.

I made this a few months ago, but hadn't gotten around to posting it. Now that I'm using it, it seemed like a good time.

This is an adapter to mount a Canon EF compatible camera to an old Nikon lab microscope.

It is based on my EF Mount I designed a while back: thingiverse.com/thing:10829

Picture descriptions:

The adapter itself, the microscope the adapter was made for, a few photos of pigment splotches on a professionally printed post card, and a single bottom-layer trace of black PLA, after it was extruded directly onto a microscope slide..

More information, more photos, and a video can be seen here: protoparadigm.com/2012/01/what-to-do-with-a-3d-printer-make-a-custom-microscope-adapter/

After some problems extruding ABS through my J Head MkIV nozzle I decided to install a fan for active cooling whilst printing.

As I needed an offset mount for anything smaller than 50mm for my X-carriage, I designed this mounting and guard.

Simple and minamalistic!

After recently completing my first 3D printer (Prusa), along with Generation 7 Electronics and opto endstops, I struggled to find some decent mounts to suit my needs.

These are based on the recent Prusa Iteration 2 release with integrated m3 nut catchers.

Simple, minamalistic and can be mounted anywhere around your frame!

The inspiration for this part is to aid in calibrating the X axis within .02 mm or .002 in of accuracy.