BACKGROUND: I have operated daisey-designs.com since 2003 to sell card models that I have designed. However, I have many more models designed than are on that site, ones that are either not-quite-complete, or I never got around to putting build instructions together. It's been several years since I've done any appreciable work on my models, and I've come to the conclusion it's not going to happen soon, if ever. But plenty of talented folks could still get some enjoyment out of what I have done, and I don't want to see all the work go down the tubes, so I'm going to try releasing some of my stuff as CC and see what happens. So, have at it, enjoy, and share!

This model is a 1/24 scale replica of the 1935 version of SJ Wittman's "Chief Oshkosh" racing plane. Model design is close to complete, but may need a few tweaks for fit. Also, no build notes or instructions, but it's not terribly complex.

A stand alone, paper stand-up for use by holding page(s) upright. This makes typing and productivity a bit more easy.

This was part of a "Day Project" at FreesideAtlanta.org

In all fairness, Sparr and I became challenged in a Speed-Modeling contest. Me on Lightwave 3D and he on OpenSCAD. Sparr was victorious, but agreed to let me upload my model anyways. Thanks bud.

I'm including this original as well as the Freeside Atlanta emboss. Visit FreesideAtlanta.org for more information on our Hackerspace!

BACKGROUND: I have operated daisey-designs.com since 2003 to sell card models that I have designed. However, I have many more models designed than are on that site, ones that are either not-quite-complete, or I never got around to putting build instructions together. It's been several years since I've done any appreciable work on my models, and I've come to the conclusion it's not going to happen soon, if ever. But plenty of talented folks could still get some enjoyment out of what I have done, and I don't want to see all the work go down the tubes, so I'm going to try releasing some of my stuff as CC and see what happens. So, have at it, enjoy, and share!

This model is a 1/3 scale replica of a rubber-powered model airplane called the "Moth," published in 1937 in Flying Aces magazine and popular ever since due to simple construction and good performance. Model design should be complete, just no instructions.

I saw this link a few days ago( instructables.com/id/Robotic-claw-business-card/ ) I was going to make it, but then I remembered me making a paper claw a few weeks ago, so instead of making a copy of someone else's design, I made my own! And also their design had gears, it would be hard to cut it out without a laser cutter, because I don't have one. So I used the mechanism from my claw and put it into this business card, and it works, and I suggest if you are going to make it, use a laser cutter, This was kinda hard to do and I had to use wire instead of the disks in it to move.

If anyone would like to test this to make sure that the parts work, go right ahead! I also think it could be 3d printed, if someone would like to modify it and test that out!

And ignore the pink post-it note, I had my name printed there and I dont want it to be online.

I made a claw a while ago on here, and it wasn't very good, it was small, the rubber bands usually messed up, and it couldn't pick anything up. This new design looks very good, and it can pick stuff up.

I have a youtube video at the below link.

This was a project I worked on years ago, before Bre and co brought 3d printing to the masses. The idea was to create a number of parts that could be printed on cardstock using a typical inkjet printer and assembled into working mechanical systems. I created the models in 3d Studio and used Tenkai (which is now Pepakura) to generate the printable patterns. Cardstock is remarkably strong at small scales, and the results are pretty durable for being paper.

This particular item is a set of 45 degree bevel gears that can be used to change the direction of rotation of a shaft by 90 degrees.

This is a paper airplane that I was tought to fold when I was a kid of about 12 or 13 years old. It is a design that stuck with me ever since and it's actualy the only design I use when folding a paper airplane as it nearly always flies quite well.

So, I was wondering how a plastic version would fly. I used a sheet of A4 paper and folded a paper version first and tested it's flight pattern first for a fairly neutral trajectory before slightly stalling and diving just a little. Depending on the wing section widths it could either div too much from te go or stall too easily. The best is normaly to aim for no stall or a very slight stall. A slight stall normally helps a bit when it goes into a slight dive as it usually pulls out of the dive until it stalls again and dive again. Depending on the height it was thrown from it can fly quite far with this stall/dive effect.

Due to printing in plastic I decided to add a hook under the nose to launch it with an elastic band. So I thought it's only fair to also do some "tool" to attach the elastc band to, to allow for easy operation.

I am still waiting for it to finish printing...so I don't yet know if it will fly

I got some sheets of sandpaper 230mmx280mm (a little wider and shorter than A4) and wanted a handy holder to turn strips of it into sanding blocks to make jobs easier. This is what I came up with.

It is designed to grip sheets of sandpaper cut to 40mm wide by just over 200mm long, but with the files included it should be easy to re-design to your needs.

This is an iris mechanism built into a greeting card sized card (5" x 7"). For simplicity and to help keep the thickness low it only has 3 leafs. This particular design does not scale well to more leafs unless it is made much larger. The initial design did have 4 leafs and is built in a way that would allow it to scale to a different number of leafs more easily. If anyone is interested I could upload that as well.

This card has slots in the back that allow you to stick a 2" x 3" photo in the back and reveal it when the iris is opened.

I have this setup for 8.5" x 11" sheets, but if you have a bigger sheet you can combine the two files.

This is an iris mechanism built into a business card sized card. For simplicity and to help keep the thickness low it only has 3 leafs. This particular design does not scale well to more leafs unless it is made much larger. The initial design did have 4 leafs and is built in a way that would allow it to scale to a different number of leafs more easily. If anyone is interested I could upload that as well.

This is a bellow to protect the Y axis ways of my CNC mill ( thingiverse.com/thing:8527 )

The base material is office paper (80 g), coated with liquid rubber later in the process. The rubber coating not only improves the bellows stability, but also gives the bellow some basic protection for oil and/or cooling liquid.

I made this as a proof of concept. It worked, but if I want the claw not to flex, I would have to make the claw out of thicker paper, or glue two pieces together. To make the claw open you would have to pull the string. As ar as I looked up online, no one created this type of claw design

Entry for the Cardboard bag design challenge.

blog.makerbot.com/2011/03/14/twotimes-design-challenge-cardboard-bags/

Found this on the web; forgot the source. (Please contact me for attribution). Quickly added tiny circle in centre, lasered it and hung it up with a thread + bead and then pulled it out. It was a grey day ... Supposed to look like a Christmas bell/tree.

First of all: All merits and credits and rights and everything else (including ownership of the files) goes to original authors - and reprap community.

Second of all: Versions here are the original files, only tweaked for toner transfer purposes.

These are some files for DIY pcbs with Toner Transfer, for Mendel.
Images for printing top bottom and silk are all 600 dpi.

More info on reprap.org/wiki/DIY_PCBs_double_sided_toner_transfer

* image file for ATX / ATX2 voltages takeout + UM232R footprint boards:
A4 file ready for transfer, 600 dpi. For ATX supply, the board allows access to all voltages without any modifications to the supply. The UM232R i made because it looks better on a proper board.

* stepper motor driver v3.0 for toner transfer +A4 layout: i never got time around to test this because i jumped to vers 3.3, but should work; nonetheless, use at your own risk

* stepper motor driver v3.3 for toner transfer: changed smd from 0805 to 1206; increased pcb size and spacings accordingly; some provisions(”just in case”): 7805 can be fitted with a small to radiator (totally not needed but i like the overkill) and can be moved around abit if needed; smd versions electrolitic capacitors could be fitted (for smd connect the vias nearby with bottom layer); alternative jumpers instead of the dip switch; alternative 0.100” pins connectors for motor; 2 opposite diagonal holes for an A3977 radiator (overkill heatsink higly recommended), and some holes underneath A3977 that are just something like chip vent; can use pots with pitch of 5/5mm also (besides 5/2.5mm);
-the version named Makerbot: has 6 pins idc and no min/max, as it was in the original file;
-the version named Mendel: has 10 pins idc and .100 min/max of 3 pins each for compatibility with current mendel Gen3 Electronics and specifically Mb v1.2
I dont think i was inspired in getting the right versions names, but i am always lacking inspiration :))

* MB 1.2v: A4 file with tqfp pads edited, ready for transfer, 600 dpi: orientation of the board on the file would of been better horizontal, but then wouldnt fit one near the other. Check photo paper shrinkage (on vertical direction) with a real piece of .100 pins along their pads. Use good quality board materials for this one. RepRap modifications included (no longer compatible with other makerbot version): as per reprap.org/wiki/PCB_adaptions_for_Mendel the bridge near icsp header area, bridge(s) in atx connector area (leading to two traces in bottom layer to be combined on the top area of sd card - looks weird but its ok).

* added EC 2.2v: A4 file with tqfp pads edited, ready for transfer, 600 dpi. I did my own EC22 with a version that was almost at the size and spacings of the original file, and after doing it like that i decided it needs further spacing out and more severe cleaning up which i did in the file. As a result the images linked and the file are slightly different, and the last version should be better. However be warned, i did not tried this last version in real life myself, although i think it should work: use at your own risk, etc.

This is a project that i am doing that will be a printed only gyroscope.
The image that i uploaded is a modification of the prototype that i made. This is for now a concept, i plan to make it be more like a gyroscope, spin longer, and to be easer to print and fold

This was a quick art piece I cooked up during the laser cutter operations class at the Dallas Makerspace. Works pretty well with 5-10 sheets of paper, but its mostly just cool.

Good file for laser demos, since it has a function as soon as you punch it out.

If you've seen any of my other weird stuff, you'll have noticed my stupid camera crank ( thingiverse.com/thing:3930 ) and the issues I've had getting it to print cleanly. I'm happy to report after a number of little issues ironed out, I've got a pretty usable part and a fairly clean print with a few minor nitpicks. The catch with this part is that it stays so hot printing the stem, it warps a little, stays mooshy longer than it should, and kind of gobs up a little bit.

One evening I sat here as it printed and I blow onto the the print as it layers up. The most recent 3 layers stayed a little soft, but the problem was reduced exponentially. So I thought, why can't I make a tiny fan, kind of like the direction bothacker investigated ( bothacker.com/2010/06/22/keep-it-cool/ ). Because RepG0018 doesn't really utilize the COOL function with aplomb, I figured, fans are worth a shot, so I built one, but I directed the air to a finite point, since I don't want to perturb the HBP or the nozzle temp as it prints.

This is a programm to create papercrafts which are formed with cubes.

You can create a model, save and load (*.kub) it.
If you press on "GEN" (short for "Generator") the genarator window will open, where a random generator trys to find a working papercraft.
The ten best results will be shown in a list, sorted by rank (lower = better).

Ranking:
Width: 1 per width
Height: 1 per height
glue flaps: 1 per 5 glue flaps
missing flaps: missing flaps * 3
cuts: 1 per 10 cuts
folds: 1 per 10 folds

With a right-click on a papercraft you can print a version with/without numbers. The numbers will help you to create the papercraft.

Sorry my Englisch is bad. I first post a german Description. I hope someone will help me with the translation.

Deutsch:

Hallo,

dies ist die Idee für ein Gerät für animierte optische Täuschungen.
Es besteht aus einer Folie und einem Bild. Das Bild besteht eigentlich aus mehreren Layern, die Zeilenweise zusehen bzw. nicht zusehen sind und die einzelnen Frames der Animation wiederspiegeln. Die Folie ist mit einem Raster bedruckt, dass jeweils nur ein Frame sichbar macht.
Dadurch entsteht die Illusion eines sich bewegenden Bildes.

Für das Gerät muss das Papier auf einen Zylinder und die Folie auf einen äußeren Zylinder gebracht werden, die dann gegeneinander bewegt werden. dies könnte per Kurbel oder per Motor geschehen.

Mit Beleuchtung von innen könnte so auch eine Laterne mit bewegtem Muster entstehen. Wenn man den inneren Zylinder dabei dreht, bewegt sich die Animation fort, wenn man den äußeren dreht, bleibt sie auf der stelle.

Ich hoffe ihr findet die Idee spannend und jemand mit mehr Kenntnissen in 3d-Design entwickelt solch ein Gerät.

Die .jar im Anhang ist ein Java-Programm zur Erstellung der Folie und des Bildes. Es können jpg und png eingetragen werden. Ich hab es in kurzer Zeit entwickelt, es ist also noch nicht perfekt :)

Die Animation kann man hier sehen:
youtube.com/watch?v=T5xtRdLOopU

Vielen Dank
Synchron


English-try:

This is the idea of a device for Animated optical illusions.
It constist of a foil and a paper. On the paper are several Frames of an animation which are set line by line next to each other. On the foil is a grid, so you can see only one frame at a time.

The device is now out of two cylinders. While the paper is on the inner cylinder, the foil is on the outter one. so you can move them against each other.
this could be made per hand or with a motor.

whith a light in the middle you can make a latern out of it.
if you rotate the inner cylinder, the animation will move. if you rotate the foil, the animation will stand in place.

i hope someone with more experience in 3d-design is able to make such a device.

The Anoptillum.jar is a Java-programm. With the programm you can produce the foil and the paper out of jpg or png frames.
I wrote it in a day so its not optimum :)

You can see the effect here:
youtube.com/watch?v=T5xtRdLOopU

thanks
Synchron

As the name states this is a business card sized device that folds out into a little desktop catapult. It can be used for launching various small objects.

Video of the card here: youtube.com/watch?v=rv8u7rttdBM

After making many of my original Cardapult design (posted on Instructables) I decided it needed to be revamped to make it both simpler and stronger. The axles were beefed up to 3/8" from 1/4" and the upper arm was lengthened and lightened for better performance. The legs were simplified to cut down on the number of parts.

This project is in the spirit of Fdavies's ( thingiverse.com/fdavies ) work on printable Sarrus linkages such as
thingiverse.com/thing:684
thingiverse.com/thing:1112
thingiverse.com/thing:1425
thingiverse.com/thing:1969

The idea is to build a mechanism that creates precise large-displacement linear motion, without using precision mechanical components like ground metal rods, ball bearings, and so on.

You can see a video of this mechanism at:
youtube.com/watch?v=y6Y6iKvTpIc

The main article is here:
reprap.org/wiki/Compliant_Linear_Motion_Mechanism_1

I bought a travel set of Settlers of Catan, but I didn't like the size of the board and pieces. I made my own cardboard tiles, settlements, cities, and roads, but they never really worked very well. Now that I'm a member of think|haus, however, I have ready access to a laser cutter! Thus this project was born.

The Hexayurt is an incredible project, reinventing disaster housing:
hexayurt.com

Vinay Gupta, the creator of the hexayurt approached me to try to find larger shapes that could also be build (reasonably) simply with zero-waste from 2x1 rectangles. His version of the story is here: vinay.howtolivewiki.com/blog/other/large-hexayurt-style-domes-a-problem-solved-1730

I came up with two additional larger domes. Models for the original hexayurt and the two new domes are all here.

A longer write up and a little more detail are here:
tilings.org.uk/Hexayurt_Family.pdf

this is a dxf file for a sphere...
look the pictures for more...
i made it with paper...
the stl file comes from TopMod
maybe acrylic or plastic is possible...

This is the frame vertex from the mendel. i just imported the stl in to pepakura and unfolded it

This is a business card that shoots US pennies. It has a little magazine that pops up and allows you to load up to 10 pennies. Then you can just pull back the slide and release to shoot a penny, and repeat until all the pennies are gone.

A video of the card in action - youtube.com/watch?v=5KNZZ9qDJtQ

Fun laser cut project to show off your laser.
I use it for business cards and show and tell.

microrax.com

I saw the 99 cent cardboard iPhone case and decided to make my own.

Little microkit / business cards. Poke hole, place parts, twist leads together. The LEDs light up in the dark.
More photos at kits.sparklelabs.com/news.html