This is combined carriage and extruder for 70mm spaced vertical x-axis. It uses 4 lm8uu bearings and can be removed from the machine without tools or disassembly of the x-axis. With the idler open the hobbed bolt and gear can be removed and cleaned without tools. I've done an extruder test and it rides nicely on the rails, but i wont be able to print anything with it until i build the rest of the machine. The SCAD file is a bit of a mess not everything is derived from the variables at the top.

For this Valentine's Day: a DNA playset. This'll probably only go over well if your significant other is a biologist. But, hey, reproduction is sexy, right?

Thanks to Wikipedia and the hard work of many scientists to measure tiny molecules, this is an accurate 35,000,000:1 scale model of DNA. It's a playset because you print out copies of the four nucleotides (A, T, G, and C) and snap them together into whatever sequence you like.

Generate it in any size.

Has an experimental feature to include an extra set of inner walls to protect the hinges from the contents. By drawing the hinge lines in a zig zag pattern, plotting time is reduced significantly.

Fully parametric (untested, it works for the parameters as they are set)

The provided STL are fine for a handlebar where the stem clamp measures 46mm, the diameter of the handlebar is 25mm just next to the stem clamp and 22.5mm of diameter some 15mm far away from the clamp.

The library paratslot.scad allows you to create parametric tslot and accessories.
even mix them in a single render.
Make tslot of any dimension.
30x30, 30x60, 20x40...

2012/02/10 fixed some bugs.

Todo:
add stepper supports,...

This is to help you align your tap or drill to be perpendicular to the work surface.
I have included the SCAD file for you to tinker with, or you can just print the default, which has 9 holes, from 2mm to 10mm in diameter in 1mm steps.

A pair of replacements clamps to retain your Techzone Huxley bowden cable using 6-R1/8 straight push-fit pneumatic fast connectors.

All my attempts to retain my ptfe bowden cable before that turned into a failure sooner or later. Now that I use those, I have zero trouble, and it's sooo helpfull for filament unloading/reloading to be able to quickly disconnect the bowden tubing.

Idea came from the ultimaker machine.

Yep!

...or YAIB

(* Yet Another Infamous Bracelet)

(** And the worse is that I think I'm not yet finish with this... Ting-A-Day, you know)

make tslot of any width.
10x10
20x20
25x25
30x30
40x40
...

Version 120208.02:
==================
Simplified library, now you pass the model as a parameter.
Added more tslot models.

Version 120208.01:
==================
Added two slots for Wx2W
So now you can print
25x50
30x60
...

Someone I know is hand-making a game that uses hexagonal pieces. They are using epoxy modelling clay and other miniature figure making materials. When I saw they were cutting the bases by hand I offered to print simple plastic bases for them or make a convenient hexagon "cookie-cutter" so that they would line up with each other better. These pieces are 33mm along a side or 66mm from two opposite points... so they are smaller than Catan pieces (which are 45mm on a side and 90mm across BTW), however as the script is parametric it could be modified to make compatible tiles.

Changes from previous versions:
0.3
- Added proper comments and cleaned up code
- Implemented Parametric Variables
0.2
- switched to using 6 sided conical frustrum
0.1
- First attempt using extruded 6-sided polygon

I've found that the x idler pulley tends to ride up against the top y carriage wood. This creates noise and other problems.

There are bearing and belt holders and all manner of x axis improvements but I've yet to see one to fix this. The idler rides up due to the belt being pulled up to mesh with the x carriage belt teeth.

My solution is to customise the teethes position to match the belts natural path.

This is based off of Joakim's x follower openSCAD file so it can match its customization for a perfect x axis sliding action, print his and mine as they replace 2 separate parts.

All comments and suggestions welcomed, heck just comment

Have GLaDOS wrapped around your little finger for science, you monster.

Aperture Science is proud to present the ultimate in portable AI technology. With the Aperture Science portable Genetic Lifeform and Disk Operating System (GLaDOS) you'll always have so much science to do, even on the go!

This is a cleaned up version of the printed clock we were able to make during Clockathon #2 last weekend. Thank you Makerbot and Bre for setting that up and hosting it, and thank you Ben for all the help, the awesome test print all set up, and the brilliant idea to back off one gear for the power drum.

It was ticking, powered by a weight that would only drop about 9" per twelve hour period, and included printed concentric shafts to support minute and hour hands on the face of the clock.

Here's some video: youtube.com/watch?v=AH4Tg2tIgfg
I had to inflict grievous harm to the code base at the time and have cleaned everything up since. See details below.

My friend needed a measuring cup so I designed one. It's sized based on volume, but otherwise super simple.

cyclone to catch the spray while purging/cleaning an airbrush.

Using a cyclone seems to be the obvious choice for this, but you cannot buy one.

Two OpenSCAD here, one is an evolution of thing 17083 (flat bracelet) and the other adds the texture (knurls in this case).

The inner sizes of the bracelet are 50mm x 60mm and some 32mm tall, the opening is 20mm.

The inherent floppiness of the Prusa frame annoys everyone. Here's my attempt at fixing it. This thing keeps the same rod spacing, though you will gain a little Z height and Y travel at the expense of some X clearance, if the nuts are right at the end of your rods.

Also, this thing can produce accurate copies of the Huxley vertex (by editing the scad file), which is not available in openscad format, I believe. Which also inspired me to make this, as I think they look cool.

Detailed description
This thread forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,112816 (you'll need to manually copy and paste the whole address, thingiverse's new style can't cope) got me thinking about how to stiffen up the Prusa frame. One thing I never understood is why the triangular section of the frame gets the widest part of the vertex, despite a triangle being inherently strong, leaving the narrow part of the vertex to give strength to the square part of the frame, which has to resist the forces of the X-axis moving around. The Mendel had much wider frame vertices, and it feels like the Prusa's are slimmed down too much. So I have designed these vertices to have the strength the other way around, to hopefully support the weaker square part of the frame.

And if that doesn't work, there is also a captive nut space in each foot for bracing the frame.

Bracing can be done in one of two ways:
1. Use a square MDF / Plywood / Alumin(i)um sheet with an appropriate cutout, sort of like one side of a Ultimaker/Makerbot, to make the frame rigid without compromising build volume.

2. Attach a cross-brace of M8 studding (connector to come). I know, I know, you'll probably scream and shout that this will reduce build volume. And it's true, it will, but not that much. Most things I build seem to be short, so I value stiffness. I also have a long-held ambition to use the frame for milling, so need greater stiffness. But then the bars are easily removable too.

You can also use captive nuts in the vertices' feet to bolt your Prusa to a board.

Feel free to edit the openscad script and come up with vertex dimensions that you feel will improve rigidity.

Build volume of the 1-footed vertex is about the same as the standard Prusa footed vertices. The 2-footed vertex is a bit more.

Questions, observations, comments and/or suggestions all gratefully received.

I'm 48 minutes (my local time) late for my thing-a-day! Finally, here it is.

It's a flat (boring?) oval (can be perfectly circular too) open (of course, you can close it) asimetrical (thinner at the open side) bracelet (or ring if you make it smaller).

This design is intended to be an envelope to be boolean used (intersection) with other textured designs, we'll see...

I started out simply wanting to print a giant bread tag for a friend. Little did I know that an entire taxonomy exists for the parasitoids known as Occlupanid (Occlu = to close, pan = bread).

The most thorough research into these organisms has been conducted by the Holotypic Occlupanid Research Group - horg.com/horg. Their work was even used in the report "Plastic bag clip discovered in partial colectomy accompanying proposal for phylogenic plastic bag clip classification" published in the BMJ Case Reports journal: casereports.bmj.com/content/2011/bcr.02.2011.3869.abstract.

While the SCAD file is parametric so far I have only designed (bred?) one example of the Toxodenta (curved teeth) order, based on an example I found in the wild which appears to conform to the classification of Palpatophora utiliformis - horg.com/horg/Palpatophora_utiliformis.htm.

I intend to extend the SCAD file to include examples of species from each order. I also encourage people to create their own variations and mutations. Let's see if we can get these creatures to evolve into something new! ;-)

A ring I'm uploading in a "thing a day" hurry

I'll try to find some time to polish and adjust few flaws, print, post pics,...

Parametric hinged and bolted attachment for square bars

This OpenSCAD script will generate a 2 part holder to attach a Tyndall WIMUv3 to the upright square cross-sectional posts on the moveable sled part of the assassin trainer at Bath University. The size of the bar it is attached to can be parametrically varied

Todo:
test fit and adjust
add "wiggle" for bolts and captured nuts

Warnings:
None

Note:
You will need to also have the modules mouse_ears_test.scad, pivot_1_0.scad and rounded_cuboid_v2.4.scad in the same directory or your library for this to compile correctly

Changes from previous versions:
0.4
- Adjusted position of cutouts around hinge and bolt clamp so that they dont go all the way through the wall to make for easier printing and drilling
- Made hinge pin larger to make it easier to insert hinge pin without drilling
0.3
- Added option to add device holder on side or not using use_holder variable
- Fixed large clamp part so that it has correct internal dimensions
- Increased height of small cutouts on long side of WIMU hodler so that activity LED can be seen
- added comments
- Moved everything up onto the build plane
- Fixed some translate issues where bar_stock_l and bar_stock_b were mixed up
- Moved the hinge and bolt side cutouts so that a thin piece of material would connect the 2 halves
- Moved the mouse ears into the union and differecne operations applied to the main clamp body
0.2
- reduced individual parts count by using the pivot module only twice and using cut lines to split it up
0.1
- First attempt

A handfull of collets for things 16682 and/or 16890 !

The ZIP file contains 48 STL to accomodate the drill bits I use the most.

As you can see, there's also collets for hex bits, size 6.25mm face to face.

They work fairly well, check out the pic with the piece of wood, it's a 15mm thick piece of oak and I have been able to go through it with the 1mm bit ! yes, it took me a while ;-)

This is a subset of the parts needed for a full Test Jig #4, modified to try concentric metal bushing/shafts instead of bearings on those gears that need to support hands on the face of the clock.

This is a wall hook that you can change the dimensions on depending on what you want to use it for.

printable belt splitter

In my previous derivative of Rasle500's great design I just made a longer handle.

This thing make that handle empty, adds some threads an introduces a cap to be bolted in those threads.

Now you have a handle that is also an storage box!

This is a small Japanese "hirajiro" plains castle from the sengoku period. Castle bases were simply made of earth so for the castle to survive the vagaries of weather and earth quakes, superstructures had to be light. Hence we see simple walls, small houses and open-work towers. The model is meant for use when wargaming, and will be suitable for campaigns in Japan in the 1400s and 1500s - I will use it for the Kawanakajima campaigns.

I have made it for use with 10mm wargaming armies, though it would work equally well for larger or smaller scales. The ashigaru figure I placed in the courtyard for scale is 10mm foot to eye. He is a ripoff of Erik's excellent
bride and groom from thingiverse.com/thing:3495 (and he's based on the bride, no less!).

Storage cabinets are great for organizing small parts. Unfortunately the one I recently bought from Lowes didn't come with drawer dividers, so I fired up OpenSCAD and made my own.

The script is fully parameterized so you can customize it to fit whatever drawers are out there. The default values fit the smaller drawers on a Shop Stack-On 39-Drawer Storage Cabinet ( lowes.com/pd_124553-941-DSB-39_ )

For updates, check out the code on github: github.com/jherrm/Drawer-Divider

For more info, see this post: jherrman.com/2012/02/3d-printed-drawer-dividers/

No, not that kind of pot. The kind you grow things IN! This hydroponics pot has a grid at the bottom to hold growing medium (perlite, vermiculite,pummice, clay beads etc.) in. If the plant's roots take control of the pot, these ones are made of Diamond Age Solutions' Ivory PLA so the whole lot can go in the compost bin when the growing season is over!

I was excited when I found JohnnyR's mirror clip (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:977) on thingiverse because I wanted to be able to help my wife hang a mirror in our new house. Sadly the design was too thick for our mirror and would have left too much room between the wall and the clip. I decided the best solution to the problem was to just redesign it in OpenSCAD to make it parametric so no one would have this problem again.