A co-worker has a Traxxas JATO 3.3 radio controlled race car. He broke one of the struts and has ideas to make a custom setup. I worked with him for about an hour to sketch this up. It hasn't been printed yet but looks promising.

Notice the "JC" for his initials built into the structure. 3D Printing for the win!

There is a support peg included to hold the ball joint up. I suggested just using a bolt through a real ball joint, but the customer insisted we try it. Clip the support off and round off as needed.

This contains all of the base parts for the printrbot in one tiny tray.

(Extruder, Gears & Clamps Sold Separately. ;) )

Full Tray Fits on a 7" x 6" Build Platform!

2 Smaller trays:
Tray 1of2: 4.7" x 4.5"
Tray 2of2: 4" x 4"

I had some trouble squeezing down tray 1 any smaller... Anyone with smaller then a 5" build platform will need to build Tray #1 on their own...

(Tray a #1 contains: 2 Base's, Bearing Guide & X Motor Mount)

This is a tribute for our teacher Obijuan ( thingiverse.com/obijuan ) that is among the ones that introduced me to the world of 3d printing.

It is a custom Wade extruder gear that has some Rebel Alliance symbol as holes on it.

I've found that the x idler pulley tends to ride up against the top y carriage wood. This creates noise and other problems.

There are bearing and belt holders and all manner of x axis improvements but I've yet to see one to fix this. The idler rides up due to the belt being pulled up to mesh with the x carriage belt teeth.

My solution is to customise the teethes position to match the belts natural path.

This is based off of Joakim's x follower openSCAD file so it can match its customization for a perfect x axis sliding action, print his and mine as they replace 2 separate parts.

All comments and suggestions welcomed, heck just comment

So i was fixing this car and while taking it apart, this clip breaks and I'm like WTF mate? So i go to my 3d printer and I'm like yo make me one of these, and it's like sure!

*Changed the size of the cable end hole to be easier to assemble.

**Now tested and working!

This is just a simple design that can be used for a number of things. Most commonly the commercial equivalent of this is used to blow air or liquid over tools on CNC machines, drill presses, etc. I am thinking of using it as an articulated arm to hold camera flashes off-camera and run wires through the center. Anything is possible.

Feel free to post up modifications, as this is tweaked to the fraction of a millimeter for my specific machine to be exactly as tight as I wanted them to be.

Note: I break a few here and there when putting them together. This is to be expected, and possibly thickening up the "neck" would fix this. I print 3 x 2 using multiply so this isn't a huge deal to break one every now and then.

EDIT: I uploaded all three resolutions. The highest is what made the links in the picture, but you may have similar luck with the other two resolutions. Thanks!

I got sick of breaking other endstop holders when trying to mount it on the smooth rod. On a whim I decided to model a hinge. It printed a working hinge the first time!

This one fits my endstop switches which are 5.6x6.45x12.75. It clamps with one M3x10 screw.

v2 Update: The hinge pin wasn't printing all the way through because of an error in the model. This was making the hinge weaker. v2 Fixes this problem. I also added the gcode. It is 0.3mm layer height 0.5mm extrusion width, 0.35 infill.

Parametric hinged and bolted attachment for square bars

This OpenSCAD script will generate a 2 part holder to attach a Tyndall WIMUv3 to the upright square cross-sectional posts on the moveable sled part of the assassin trainer at Bath University. The size of the bar it is attached to can be parametrically varied

Todo:
test fit and adjust
add "wiggle" for bolts and captured nuts

Warnings:
None

Note:
You will need to also have the modules mouse_ears_test.scad, pivot_1_0.scad and rounded_cuboid_v2.4.scad in the same directory or your library for this to compile correctly

Changes from previous versions:
0.4
- Adjusted position of cutouts around hinge and bolt clamp so that they dont go all the way through the wall to make for easier printing and drilling
- Made hinge pin larger to make it easier to insert hinge pin without drilling
0.3
- Added option to add device holder on side or not using use_holder variable
- Fixed large clamp part so that it has correct internal dimensions
- Increased height of small cutouts on long side of WIMU hodler so that activity LED can be seen
- added comments
- Moved everything up onto the build plane
- Fixed some translate issues where bar_stock_l and bar_stock_b were mixed up
- Moved the hinge and bolt side cutouts so that a thin piece of material would connect the 2 halves
- Moved the mouse ears into the union and differecne operations applied to the main clamp body
0.2
- reduced individual parts count by using the pivot module only twice and using cut lines to split it up
0.1
- First attempt

A pen holder for plotting on your ToM with minimal effort. Mounts in place of the extruder and can be adjusted.


This can swivel a bit when it's mounted to get it centered nicely then. It plots good for me but I'll likely be refining this slightly in the future - making it once piece and adding a little more bracing to eliminate some of the slight flex.


Plot with G-code generated from Inkscape with: thingiverse.com/thing:16424

My previous shot at this[1] didn't manage to blow too much air onto the nozzle. Some people were even beginning to try dangerous things to get it to blow harder, like blocking the air path through the radiator fins.

A better solution is, of course, a beefier fan! The standard Mk7 fan is rather wimpy, but you can get 4mm fans which will blow much harder (see the second picture for a comparison). Since there's more flow all around, we can even divert a larger portion of the flow towards the nozzle, so I changed the duct to do just that.

With this setup, I get quite a strong air flow around the nozzle.


[1] thingiverse.com/thing:16392

This is my 3rd version of printable LM8UU bushings.

Prusa suggested to me that putting some spring/give in them could be a good idea, so I gave it a go.

They're more than strong enough to handle the forces they get subjected to, and as an added bonus they're far less likely to crack your X-ends when you insert them since they'll happily compress a little.

I replaced a set of my original bushings with these, they're still wearing in but seem to work great so far. It certainly solved the chatter problem I had!

PLEASE NOTE: ABS is not a suitable material for bushings. It's too soft so it has lots of friction and wears quickly. These printed in ABS would be a novelty only, not a useful part.

PLA works well, as will any other hard plastics.

These models are intended for additive manufacture too calibrate and match X&Y input to output. More to come.

I don't like the way my ToM's X axis handles the HBP cable: it keeps rubbing against the Y axis carriage, and the connector is constantly subject to different forces, which some people tell me can lead to HBP failure.

Since I anchor my HBP with just three bolts (that's all that's needed to align it... if you use more, you are probably twisting it), I used one of the corner holes in the X carriage platform to hold this beam, and a ziptie to hold the cable in place at the end of the beam.

That way, all the cable's forces get transferred to the X carriage body, and the connectors are spared all stress.

Update: Made it shorter (what was I thinking?) and easier to print (there's a thin membrane between the nut trap and the bolt hole now, to keep the trap clean).

Yes, yet another filament spool hanging device.

I realized if I attached the spool to the underside of the small wire rack shelf I have next to my printer for my notebook that I could put tools and other things on the space underneath it.

This should work for most types of wire rack shelving. This is set for a 90 degree hanging angle on a shelf 14" (356cm) wide. If your shelf is smaller or larger you might want to edit the .step files and change the angle of the rods. (Sorry, i'm not an openscad kind of thinker, heh)

I also wanted a way to easily change spools (I keep my spares bagged up so they do not absorb Seattle moisture.) So the spool "axle" just sits in the sockets which allows it to be easily interchanged with my other spools. The outside nuts on the spool rod are not tightened down, but rather I have 2 nuts on the ends of the rod acting as a cap.

I recently built the Ninja CNC kit from CNCSNAP.com. They include some pretty good harware but I wanted my machine to be able to cut heavier material. So i began making upgrades to the machine. I replaced the laser cut motor mounts with HEAVY DUTY 3D printed ones that are probably a little "over" built. But stronger is better right? I also designed a very robust tool holder that fits the motor they supply with the kit. I love this tool holder, it works great. Note: you will need to drill a hole in the end of the clamp to bolt it together. I recommend a small diameter machine screw. Next I stiffened up the guide rods with a set of support claps on each rod. I made them slightly under sized so you will need to run a 1/4" drill through them. My "Y" axis coupler broke so I replaced it with thing 7059. I can't find the corner bracket file I used to stiffen up the frame but I'll post it when I do. I also bolted together my "Z" carriage because it wanted to split with putting the tool holder one it.
If you have any questions or want me to make other upgrade/ design changes just let me know.
Thanks and I hope you put these files to good use.

youtube.com/watch?v=GYD6TE_If6U

this is so you can use the "Bearing spool holder by chylld"
thingiverse.com/thing:7001
with makerbot and other spools that have a counter bore on one side.

Anyone who has ever owned a crock-pot knows that using one is a high energy event that can easily lead to knob destruction making frantic temperature selections between Off, Low and High. One can get caught up in the massive dial selections while mentally salivating over the to-be-crocked feast.

Or so I'm told.

This knob was to replace a broken one my parents brought me, they said it worked perfectly and sent me a picture...

Crock on I suppose.

Anyone who has ever owned a crock-pot knows that using one is a high energy event that can easily lead to knob destruction making frantic temperature selections between Off, Low and High. One can get caught up in the massive dial selections while mentally salivating over the to-be-crocked feast.

Or so I'm told.

This knob was to replace a broken one my parents brought me, they said it worked perfectly and sent me a picture...

Crock on I suppose.

I added a cooling air jet directly to extruder gear assembly to prevent softening of PLA filament too soon, PLA is worst case (heat is transferred from motor and extruder hot block) this will hopefully apply to new main board upgrade where stepper motors run at even higher temperatures.

UP! extruder Mofification
1. Tolerant to material variances
2. Stable mounting
My best modification to the extruder has developed into;
• Replace "pressure" block holding "fixed position" feed roller bearing that applies pressure to keep filament in contact with extruder gear with new design 2 part adjustable constant pressure block and arm incorporating "Vlier" spring plunger to apply consistent pressure regardless of variances in filament diameter tolerances.

This replaces the stamped sheet metal mount between Extruder and linear slide saddle of an UP! printer with a machined aluminum mount incorporating alignment features to reduce bounce in nozzle when short quick movement in print head occurs.
An added benifit is there is a lot less ABS getting scooped up and burnt due to the wobble of the extruder moving so quickly.

Derivative design of cibomahto's original design for a sleek, minimal toilet paper holder here; thingiverse.com/thing:5938

• Added ribs for support at connection to base
• Reduced diameter to accomodate more manufacturers' toilet paper rolls
• Download & print with or without the words, "Oh crap! Time to buy more toilet paper" embossed

A plate which holds the bearing in.

I had a problem with the bearing working out of the hole on my MK6 extruder, so I made this. It fastens using the nuts which were already installed in the extruder body.

This tool holder will mount in place on the Z platform in place of the extruder allowing you to cut shapes out of paper vinyl or other thin material without much effort. It does require a very level bed and I recommend cutting on a cut down cutting mat.

This was designed to hold a leading brand craft cutter's blade holder.

Turn you MakerBot into a "ShopSmith" type multi-tool!

This is a handle that I designed as a replacement for a broken Bakelite original part on a kitchen tool. It is generic enough that I think it could be repurposed for other applications.

Stops the aluminium coupling from opening from the weight of the z-axis on the Prusa Mendel.

The x-axis caps on the ToM are a pain to adjust because the rods keep getting in the way of the hand that's trying to hold the nuts. They also can deteriorate after several disassembly/assembly cycles. These parts can help with both problems.

A 2-part, hinged, bolt-on holder/fixture for affixing a small packaged sensing device (in this case a custom WIMU) to a round shaft or bar allowing it to be easily attached to golf clubs, tennis racquets, pipes, cylindrical bar stock, walking sticks etc.

A dualstruder-compatible duct that diverts some air from the extruder fan so that it blows on the nozzle. This should help plastic cool faster, which again should lead to better bridges.

simple powder basket for my new hiking poles