I saw thingiverse.com/whpthomas/designs design of upgrade extuder head, and since I had problems with this, I made a derived a new design that fitted my Replicator 1 Dual.
Using a spring that we have at work its partNo 1180 and should be avalible as a spare part for Poseidon diving equipment.

It is also made for the dual extruder thats why it is sticking out upwards instead of on the sides, and the adjustment screw is inside the handle.

I made the pressure of the spring adjustable so that it would be easier to get the best result out of the print, and I have printed for 60 h without any feed failures since I made the upgrade.

I got the original solidwork files of the whole Replicator from
thingiverse.com/tlalexander/designs
Which made the design work easier.

If you want to get rid from z axis wobble or make a drill press or mini cnc mil, using this mod!

We would love to have someone print this for us as a prototype.... anyone interested?


Call Howie at Transwest Helicopters 250-498-6691


Cheers,


Howie

So i came across Robosavvy's automated removal system as i was already working on one. So i scratched my system temporarily to make a sweeping guard that would work for the replicator 1 dual extruder. Unfortunately the sweeper gaurd for Robosavvy's design would not work with the replicator one dual or single extruder.

So i designed a part sweeper that not ony works great but, easy to print and as well as takes the place of the spacers for the extruder fans.

When printing this part out you may have to work the screw holes a bit as I designed the guard to be a tight fit so there would be no play.

This part was not designed to be printed in abs, PLA ONLY!

This is designed for printing only in PLA as ABS parts on a heated build platform can become stuck at times. This could potentially lead to damaging your printer if trying to use the part removal system while printing with abs.

When printing with this automated system do not try this with prints with alot of contact surface area to the build platform. This systems works well with small parts that can be tipped over then pushed.

To push the part forward you need to find the line with :(******* End.gcode*******) in the gcode file and add the following code before that line:
G21 (set units to mm)
G90 (set positioning to absolute)
G1 Z150 F1000 (lower build platform)
G1 X0 F1000 (move to center left to righ)
G1 Y75 F1000 (move to rear)
G1 Z50 F1000 (raise to 50mm)
G1 Y-75 F1000 (push part)
G1 Y75 F1000 (move to rear)
G1 Z20 F1000 (raise to 20mm)
G1 Y-75 F1000 (push part)
G1 Y75 F1000 (move to rear)
G1 Z1 F1000 (raise to 1mm)
G1 Y-75 F1000 (push part)

If you have taller parts you want your first sweep to contact the very top of the part to knock it over so you may need to adjust the code above at that time in the z axis to match that heigth.

You only need 2 passes in this process. The first pass knocks the part over. The the second pass sweeps and pushes the part into collection bin. The collection bin can be anything a bucket or a box does not matter.

edit the code snippet above as necessary for different heigth.

To make the system automated just recopy your gcode from the begining to the end of the part removal code for how many parts you want to make.

Print, Install and Enjoy :)

Youtube video of system in action:
youtube.com/watch?v=oZYAt69Swsk

I needed to make a cedar fence section with a particular look, and making a jig to get the slats evenly spaced was a perfect excuse to play with my Replicator 2!

As configured, the jig can hold a slat about 5/8" wide and space them 4" apart. Multiple jigs can be connected end-to-end to layout sections of arbitrary size. The built-in spring applies enough pressure to hold everything in place while gluing, which really helps!.

The scad file is included and should be customizable for other spacings without too much difficulty.

same assembly, smaller bolts and slimmer profile.

print handle twice.. one mirrored

The FitBit One activity tracking device (pedometer) comes with a pocket clip; the plastic tip broke off mine, leaving the metal exposed. This is a basic openscad "boat hull" shape that can probably be customized for a number of applications.

added cutouts to the sides of the cone to improve clearance between bolt and bearing.

Totally customizable =D

simple cone to prevent filament from bending between extruder hobbed bolt and hot end.

I made this for a robotics project using LEGO Mindstorms and other LEGO Technic parts.

The bearing is a customized version of the very awesome Gear Bearing by emmett. thingiverse.com/thing:53451

I could not find a gear/motor only kit for the Makerbot Botmobile (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13827) so I took the original drawing and extracted the 2 gears necessary to complete the drive train. All credits for the model go to the Makerbot crew who originally designed the car.

This is a handle I designed for standard keyhole saw blades. The handle I had was "Pistol-style" and I didn't llike it. Importantly, the first finger contour has a significant projection to prevent forward slippage. Hexagonal lanyard hole also works with pegboard hooks.

My First Thing!

This is a holder I designed to work with the larger Makerbot-style spools on my Solidoode 3. It is wide enough to put 3 different spools on at the same time, as long as you tape or clip the ends of the unused spools. If desired, you could mount a second one on the other two corners of the frame, although that might get silly. I've included the uprights individually, although I had no problems printing them together on my SD3.

A pair of M4 or #6SAE Machine screws can be used to screw the clips onto the uprights, if desired. Mine holds together well enough as-is, but it may loosen over time.

This is a basic nut and bolt with a spanner. i have not tested this with a 3d printer so would be very greatfull if someone would print this off and tell me how it goes.

Thanks

I couldn't find a thumb for the following PCB joystick. So I designed one using OpenSCAD
il.rsdelivers.com/product/alps/skqucaa010/pcb-stick-switch-4-dir-centre-push/0516316.aspx
I'm using it for the LAOS controller board.
redmine.laoslaser.org/projects/laos/wiki/LAOS_I2C_Panel_v04

Variations are welcome, like the nintendo NES controller perhaps?

**Improvements:**

- The axial forces are supported by the rollers in place of the housing.
- Stronger housing (1.5 instead of 1 mm and inner facets).
- Another 4 mm wheels.

**TODO:**

- The rolls have 2x0.1 mm axial play, maybe 2x0.05 would be better.
- There are also less clearance between the outer and the inner race than the rollers have in radial direction...)

badBrick - Parallax Continuous Rotation Servo Brick Top Mount.

Fits 1 (one) Parallax Continuous Rotation Servo in a 8x3x4 Brick. This mount is intended to hold up a Parallax Continuous Rotation Servo for prototyping some ideas.

The brick itself is equal to 4 (3x8) Lego bricks. So it can be "bricked" into a nice support structure to hold it in place.

A huge help when you are trying to make something and don't want your sensors out and loose.

This brick was specifically designed to hold the Parallax Continuous Rotation Servo but it may hold other servos as well.

Fits 1 (one) Tower Pro Micro Servo model SG5010 in a 8x3x4 Brick. This mount is intended to hold up a TP SG-5010 Servo for prototyping some ideas.

The brick itself is equal to 4 (3x8) Lego bricks. So it can be "bricked" into a nice support structure to hold it in place.

A huge help when you are trying to make something and don't want your sensors out and loose.

This brick was specifically designed to hold the Tower Pro SG-5010 Servo but it may hold other servos as well.


If you don't have a 3D printer but you're interested in getting one of these we can print you one at badbrick.com/catalog

I based this upgrade on thingiverse.com/thing:42250 from whpthomas. Please follow his directions for items you need.

Changes that I have made:
Shorter arm so that it can fit into the 2X on both sides
Big feed hole
Using the top left and right screw holes to hold the base against the motor
Added a groove so that it is possible to add a screw from the front to keep the arm in position
Added a way to hold a nuts at the back for the two screws that will go through the arm

Simple and costumizable toy

For using a non-printed plastic spool with tjhowse's printable spindle. This one is sized to fit a Makerbot/Ultimachine spool with a ~52mm hole, which seems to be a fairly common hole size for 1kg spools, but the parameters can be edited in the scad file to fit others if necessary.

Keep breaking off the scissor part, so here is a replacement designed in Sketchup.

Tried it in the field (working on a boat) for a week, and it did better than the original, which is probably thanks to the apoxy.

Hello-
Here's a hinge I drew on request of an instructor at my little community college. **It's all in one, and there is absolutely no assembly required!** This hinge is 1.500" wide by 2.000" tall , the leaves are .075" thick, the outer diameter of the pin housing is .175" and each leaf has (2) .250" dia countersunk holes. The holes are located .500" from the centerline horizontally and .719" from the midpoint vertically.
Both leaves rotate 90 degrees from horizontal in one direction, and 45 degrees from horizontal the other direction. The pin diameter is 0.080" and has small bosses on each end to keep it in the part.
The pictures attached don't show the holes, as this was just as test print. Also, there's a short video in the "download this thing" area of this part.
I'm only publishing the .stl file right now, if you'd like me to send you the 2012 Solidworks .sldprt file, leave me a comment with your email address and I'll gladly send it to you. Let me know if you find this useful please!

roof rack with integrated light bar for 5mm LEDs

this is a custiomzable servo pulley with horn indents based of thingiverse.com/thing:19940 and thingiverse.com/thing:63471

The pin that fixes the strap to the shoe broke. Luckily I have my printer to the rescue.

To make the pin strong enough, I designed it to be printed on its side. This meant that I had to make two parts to be glued together, but it is now strong enough to hold the strap.

Are your box fans tipping over all the time making time consuming costly messes?
THERE HAS GOT TO BE A BETTER WAY!

These are replacement feet for box fans
(a part seemingly designed to fail universally)

Somehow this project exemplifies everything cool about 3D printing while simultaneously shining an absurd white hot light on its impracticality... The machine cost $2200, the filament $50/kg, it took me a couple hours to make the sub-millimeter accurate model (parts, boolean, fixing the mesh, export, import, slice), and it took about 2 hours to print four feet in fast mode from the MakerWare software.

BUT HEY, LOOK! I MADE FAN FEET AND YOU CAN TOO!

A spool holder to attach to the aluminium frame of the Prusa i3 to have the filament over the printer :)

I had always thought there was quite a bit of real estate that could be taken advantage of with the extruder fan assembly. I can think of countless different things that just a little current and a breadboard could enable. Thanks to bluejay117's work and sharing of the source for this puppy (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:64669). Sorry for bastardizing any favored fillets, I'm a baboon on crack in CAD ;) I threw an incredibly cramped fitting for a little 5mm led headlight.

Included are stls both Serif and Sans Serif and a STEP file.

In Action:
youtube.com/watch?v=CXka9GoqYeU

Adapter for the Printrbot+ Filament Guide