This is a modified v1.1 Thingomatic Heater Board which has a tab with through-hole pads for soldering and securing the Molex KK 0.156" harness connector as well as the motor connector. This provides a much sturdier mounting point for the wiring connectors, making it much harder to break the connectors off along with their pads. Additionally, this layout has no vias and uses wider traces to the motor connector and to the SMD components. (The heater traces are the same widths and left unchanged other than the removal of the vias.)

In the v1.1 r0 version, the connectors are soldered to SMD pads and accidentally bending the Molex connector up or down can leverage its pads right off of the board.

While this PCB addresses the mechanical problem with the attachment of the connectors, it does not address the problem associated with overheating of the plastics in the connector shrouds or their mating plugs -- particularly the HEATER- and +12V wires on the wiring harness. To address that problem, instead solder some teflon jacketed wires to the pads (v1.1 r0) or the through holes (v1.1 r2) and then make a pigtail connector or similar. Teflon jacketed wire can take the heat and if you run several inches of it, it should be enough to dissipate the heat before mating with the wiring harness. You can get a small spool of the stuff at a good price in the US from bulkwire.com; the through holes for the Molex connector will easily accommodate 14 gauge wire.

Note that the tab is 10.81 mm (0.43") deep and as such will add that much additional length to that side of your heater board. [The tab seen in the pictures is 2.54 mm (0.1") longer than the one in the attached Eagle and Gerber files.]

BTW, there is no "r1" that I'm aware of. For whatever reason, I accidentally produced my board with "r2" on it. Cest la vie.

A BatchPCB design is available at
batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=78232&check=38563f546fc5198d95b69e6810006a8e

**NOTE: if you are looking for Gerber files for the original Thingomatic Heater Board 1.1, see Thing 16459,

thingiverse.com/thing:16450

Gerber files for MakerBot Gen4 Interface Kit for batchpcb.com. These are simply the eagle files to make a printed circuit board from the original, now repackaged as gerber for your convenience.

Warning! I have received the boards from batchpcb.com and I have ordered the parts from mouser.com but I have yet to put this together and test. Anything could be wrong with this, but I am sure I am close. I put this up here as I needed 6 of these and Makerbot is out of stock. If you see anything wrong, please help me correct it. Thanks!

Link to Batchpcb:
batchpcb.com/product_info.php?products_id=75636&check=54acb8bc688b325fc032d4e6439a91c0

This is the Mantis 9.1 designed by David Carr at MIT. It is a mini mill that people have built for less than 100 dollars. It seems to be best at pcb engraving and other semi hard materials.

It's handy to have a small rack to hold PCB's while you're building them. This little rack is printable in sections of 4. The racks snap together with dovetails, and have screw holes for mounting to a large board.

Gerber files for the PSCC v1.5.2 stepper controller by ljyang for batchpcb.com. These are simply the eagle files to make a printed circuit board from the original, now repackaged as gerber for your convenience.

Gerber files for Cupcake HBP 2.0 for batchpcb.com. These are simply the eagle files to make a printed circuit board from the original, now repackaged as gerber for your convenience.

I had problems using the original pen holder on my Prusa, see apapageek.blogspot.com for details.

So I used the original STL file as a template for reworking the design in OpenSCAD. Along the way I made a few changes to make using the pen holder easier.

a) Redesigned the top bracket so that there are channels to guide the rubber bands and a loop to hold them captive. Now if there is a balance problem, or when you take the pen out the bracket does not try to orbit the room.

b) Made the holes for the elastic band capture bolts on the top further away from the body, this made it easier to install the elastic bands.

c) Made the bottom tube longer, this should solve my problem of the pen tip being too close to the X-carriage.

d) Turned the top plate to bottom plate mounting holes through 90 degrees and sliced the sides off the circle, this allows me to mount it on my Greg Frost X-Carriage.

This is PCB cutting test for iModela.
This is the pattern for the 32pin IC(e.g. ATmega328) to convert from 0.8mm to 25.4mm pitch.
(However, this is not practical.)

The width of the pattern (on the data) is min 0.3mm.
Between the pattern and the pattern is min 0.5mm.
I used a PCB milling software "WINSTER PCB for iModela"
a-t.co.jp/winstarpcb_imode.html

Gerver data were created using PCBE.
vector.co.jp/soft/winnt/business/se056371.html



"iModela" is the 3D cutting machine manufactured by Roland DG.
This machine can cut the size of 86x55x26mm.
This can move the cutter 0.01mm intervals.
icreate.rolanddg.com/iModela/Global/English/index.html/

Wanted to try out Kicad and I did that by designing a blinking Christmas tree PCB. It has 24 LEDs controlled by a ATTiny2313.

This is work in progress, no firmware yet.
I probably won't be able to finish this for this year's Christmas, so if you want to give it a try, go ahead!

This is a tool for bending lead of resistors and other components. Every line has a standard size, each slot is .05″ longer than the next and has radiused edges to make perfect bends without stressing the leads. It can be used to bend the leads of 1/2 watt resistors, 1/4 watt resistors, and diodes.
Esta pieza es una herramienta para doblar patillas de resistencias. Cada hueco es multiplo de 2,54mm (el espaciado estandard de componentes). Puede ser usado para doblar resistencias de 1/2w ,1/4w o diodos.

The Skymega is an electronic board for programming printbots. It is open source hardware, designed with the open source tools Kicad (we have named this kind of hardware as open source squared). It is based on the ATmega microcontrollers, so it is Arduino compatible.

This board has been specifically designed for building modular robots or mini mobile robots. Currently we are using it at Universidad Carlos III de Madrid for the following printbots:

* Miniskybot: thingiverse.com/thing:7989
* Repy1 1.1 modules: thingiverse.com/thing:13442
* F-track: thingiverse.com/thing:13298
* Orugator: thingiverse.com/thing:8559

Features:
* Small in size
* Easy to build by the students
* ON/OFF switch
* Arduino compatible
* Connection up to 8 servos
* I2C bus
* 1 Test button
* 2 Test led

Authors
* Juan Gonzalez-Gomez (Obijuan)
* Andrés Prieto-Moreno
* Itziar Lima
* Ricardo Gomez

More information on this board (repository, images, instructions) can be found on this link (in Spanish): iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=SkyMega

I know, the last thing we need is another RAMPS box... but I wanted to put up the updated Sliding Lid Project Box, and demonstrate the new screw hole option.

I also thought it would be good to show an actual use of the parametric box.

The original box did not print the actual holes for screws, just screw blocks you could drill into. That was because I felt that printed holes were hard to get accurate, and this could lead to plastic cracking stresses. Now holes are printed as a star shaped hole, a bit like some masonry mounts. These will accept a lot of different screws and not stress out. There are now two parameters to separately specify the screw hole, and the hole in the lid.

I have made and assembled the RAMPS 1.4 box, but haven't had it in operation, so I can't be sure there is enough ventilation.

OK, the STL will be useless to anyone not soldering my particular board but the idea might inspire others to make their own.

I have 10 boards to solder this weekend. There are various SMD parts and a bunch of through hole parts. It can be a real pain to solder the through-holes while keeping them straight up and down. So I created this holder. I have pockets in the holder that all my through holes parts sit in. They are positioned exactly for the board both in XY coordinates and the height of each pocket brings the part flush to the board. Because there isn't any play in the pockets and because the parts sit against the board, all the parts come out perfectly vertical.

It takes about 5 seconds to populate the holder and put a blank PCB on top of them. Then it's just a matter of soldering each pin which is a lot faster than the previous way of trying to hold a piece, soldering a single pin, checking to make sure the part is straight and then finishing the rest of the pins, then repeat on another part.

I also designed my board so that all SMD parts (except one pesky 0402 LED) are on the bottom. This makes it really easy to solder the board in one go. My production time has gone down from 10 minutes to about 2 minutes

I also put a lossely folded up piece of paper in each pocket. This acts as a sort of spring and helps to push flatten the parts against the PCB.

I wanted a mount to hold the SparkFun Bluetooth Mate Silver modem that I'll be using on my RepRap Prusa Mendel thanks to this:
thingiverse.com/thing:13506

I edited the OpenSCAD file for the Arduino module and adjusted it to fit the modem. I also removed the extra tabs (originally there were 6).

This should also fit the BlueSMiRF modules as well.

I set the length to be 40mm so that I'd have a little room at the end for solder points.

This is a derivative of thingiverse.com/thing:5396 as well.

This is a case for a mini2440 without a screen, this as yet has not been printed, but it should be fairly safe as long as your printer can print bridges. If it can't, you will have to edit the file to add "support" material and clip it later.

Lots of parameters are available in the openscad file, you might be interested in changing the screw holes to fit some screws that you own.

v1.1: Reworked the openscad file a bit. Added (optional) airflow holes (not really necessary with a mini2440) and added a way to trim the sides & bottom center part to save material.

A derivative of the PCB Gator Vise and Hobby Clamps thingiverse.com/thing:12616

This one has been modified so that it will print on a TOM and will hold circuit boards in such a way that you have better access to the edges of the board.

I am currently the proud owner of a newborn Reprap Prusa Printer.

I still have some way to go in getting my RepRap performing at it's peak. What I have learned so far is that cooling your printer is important. As well as keeping the thermal barrier cool in the hot end of the printer, the other area of the printer that gets nice and toasty is the electronics.

I tried to passively cool my StepStick stepper motor drivers with some heatsinks, but after a long session printing they were pretty hot. So I designed this.

The Ramps Cooler/Guard is a pretty simple design as you can see, but it is effective and pretty neat.

I also felt that it would be useful to me to gain a little feedback from my printer so I have added three holes to the right hand side of the piece to furnish two red LEDs and a green LED. These quite simply are connected to the power input, heat-bed heater and extruder tip outputs on the RAMPS board. The green LED tells me that there is 12v power to the the printer, the red LEDs come on when my heaters are active.

The mounting holes for a RAMPS shield match of course the Arduino Mega, so there may be other applications for this design. In a future version I may add a power switch, but feel free to add one if you use my design.

IMPORTANT. The mounting holes will need adjusting in the .scad file for your printer/hardware.

Added a shelf that makes handling an Arduino + Sparkfun Joystick Shield a bit nicer.

Possible modifications:
-Increase "shelf" height to provide support to the joystick
-Increase the wall height to provide support to the joystick
-Add some cutouts or other places to route wires

This shield allows you to connect a HP C6602 inkjet cartridge to your Arduino turning it into a 96dpi print platform. It only uses 5 pins which can be jumper selected to avoid other shields. It is designed with a Arduino Mega footprint but fully supports both the Arduino and the Arduino Mega. It uses all through-hole components to make assembly easy even for beginners.

Features
Compatible with Arduino and Arduino Mega
Uses only 5 user selectable pins
Stackable (up to 11 Inkshields on Ardunio, 15 on Mega)
On-board 20V boost converter for inkjet head
Accepts 9-12V input via optional power connector or from the Arduino Vin
Auxiliary input header offers support for other microcontrollers
Auxiliary output header supports an extension cable to the inkjet head
Power and Pulse activity LEDs
ISCP header and Reset button
All through-hole components

This will be the first official release location. For the most current information visit:
nicholasclewis.com/inkshield/
github.com/NicholasCLewis/InkShield

A production run of this project was successfully funded via a Kickstarter here: kck.st/oAGeza

Description of files:
InkShieldLibrary.zip - Regular Arduino Libraries/Examples (You should download the *NEW* version)
InkShieldLibraryNEW.zip - Regular Arduino Libraries/Examples (updated version - found a few bugs when finishing the Mega version)
InkShieldMegaLibrary.zip - Arduino Mega Libraries/Examples
InkShieldLiteLibrary.zip - Minimal Arduino Libraries/Examples
InkShieldPCB.zip - Kicad Schematic and PCB Layout

Making those old red Gen3 motherboards more like a Gen4 motherboard.

You can buy one in the MakerBot Store! store.makerbot.com/3g-5d-shield-for-cupcake.html

This is a shield for the Gen3 Motherboard that allows connecting a fourth stepper (for controlling a stepper-extruder) directly to the motherboard. This is my "sorry guys" for coming up with the firmware changes and that ugly cable hack that was used to connect the Gen3 EC to an external stepper.

Note: I fixed a glitch in the RPM variants of the Machines.xml files. Sorry about that.

Below you can download a file "3G_5D_Profiles.zip" that contains three profiles:

A skeinforge 40 profile, called "3G 5D (Dimension) Example v2," that is the same profile I use with both Gen3+Shield and Gen4 motherboards. Note that this profile is NOT for use the RPM variants of the machines files.

Two skeinforge 35 profiles, called "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm ABS MK7" and "3G 5D Shield (RPM) 1.75mm PLA MK7," that can be really be used with any stepper-driven extruder. These are for use with the RPM variants of the machine files.

Update Oct 2nd, 2011: I just updated the hex file with endstop fixes. I also uploaded a new firmware based on 3.0 that will work better with RepG26. You will need to update the EC to 3.0 as well. The stock EC firmware will work. The source for the new 3.0 fimware is here: github.com/giseburt/G3Firmware/tree/3G-5D-Shield-3.0

Update Nov 4th, 2011: I've added an E-Stop connector and associated circuitry to make it reset the bot in case of a failure. Because of this I've changed the pricing slightly.

Update Nov 13th, 2011: I've fixed a glitch in the 5D machines file for use with RepG27.

Wanted some visepads that would allow me to grab a PCB more easily. I have a helping hands, but that's too small for doing multiple piece batches. These pads are smooth with a 2mm channel near the top

Overall width: 110mm
Space between holes: 60mm
Hole dia: 6mm
Hole cap dia: 10mm
Hole countersink depth: 5mm

Designed for Vertical X-axis competition.

PCB manufacture needs to be easier for reprap; countless numbers of printed parts can be made, but I see electronics as a real bottleneck. Just like 3D printing, the more accessible it is, the better the take up. To this end, I have started designing a milling carriage for the Vertical X-axis standard.

The idea is that the normal x-carriage can be unclipped from the x-axis, leaving LM8UU bearings on the linear rods, then this one can be clipped on to mill PCBs or other small parts.

Basic reprap PCB milling page here: reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Milling
Linear mounts are 70mm apart, as per the standard reprap.org/wiki/Vertical_X_Axis_Standard.
The LM8UU Linear bearing mounts were taken from Josef Průša/Greg Frost's X-end holders, which I think have the best grip on the bearings: github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel. I guess my idea is that it could be swapped, not that you'd be doing it every day. I have found Greg's other design thingiverse.com/thing:9871 doesn't have as strong a hold, and is more difficult to print reliably (lots of small towers).
Spindle layout is based on David Carr's Mantis 9 Low Cost Spindle v2.0 makeyourbot.org/low-cost-spindle-2-0.
The carriage will incorporate the belt doubling system from Madkite thingiverse.com/thing:8852 that Emmanuel is building into the Vertical X-axis he has designed reprap.org/wiki/X-carriage-struder and thingiverse.com/thing:10711
More details to follow on vitamins required, once I work them out!

It's not ready to be printed yet. STLs generated by the .scad file need fixing (I used Netfabb Basic edition). Spacing needs to be refined, but it's a start. There are no belt mounts at present.

I see the main problems using a reprap for milling as:
1. Using belts to drive something that should really be driven by leadscrews - Madkite's belt doubling technique I hope will improve the belt situation
2. Wobble in the drill - David Carr's spindle design should eliminate problems at the motor/spindle that others have seen using various Dremel-style drills
3. Wobble in a X-axis - hopefully the change to a vertical X-axis should mean this is much more tightly constrained
4. Wobble in the frame - The larger problem is the X-axis pushing left and right. I'm designing a simple cross-brace to triangulate this area with threaded rod. It's not ideal for 3D printing as it will interfere with the build area, but will not get in the way of milling, and will be easily removed to convert back to printing.

Any observations, comments and/or suggestions gratefully received!

I saw prusa's excellent heated bed, but the dimension was too large for the blank stock I had available, and there were too many narrow traces for an easy home etch, so I designed a different one.

Dimensions are 200x200mm, hole centers are 190mm apart.

Design resistance is 0.95 ohms. Etch from 1oz (36um) copper to get this resistance.

Gives 150w from a 12v source, and consumes 12.5A.

I've had my bed up to 140°C before, and didn't want to take it higher for fear of cracking my glass or damaging the FR4 PCB material.

This is an electric motor made from a printed circuit board, some 3D printed components, 44 magnets, 44 steel washers, and a handful of electronic components for drive circuitry.

It is similar in design to thingiverse.com/thing:802 but it is much easier to make and the performance is much better. Maximum mechanical power output is about 600 mW. Top no-load speed is about 2000 rpm. This is probably enough power to do something useful.

Also provided is an open source script that runs on Matlab or GNU Octave to generate custom motor coil patterns. The script will export CAM files in KiCad or EAGLE format, so you can fabricate coil patterns of your own liking.

While this motor used a commercially produced PCB for the coilplate, the idea is that users can produce functional motors using nothing more than their own 3D printers.

See reprap.org/wiki/Automated_Circuitry_Making for an overview of using Reprap-style printers to fabricate circuit boards.

Videos of the motor in operation are at
youtube.com/watch?v=aIj4dKaEXnU
youtube.com/watch?v=Gj_GX-TvAQU

This work was presented at ASME IDETC 2011. The paper citation is DETC2011-48602, Design of an Electromagnetic Actuator Suitable for Production by Rapid Prototyping, by Matthew Moses and Gregory S. Chirikjian

This is a Reprap 32bit control board based upon AVR32 (AT32UC3B0256) CPU.
It is a functional replacement for the Gen4 Aruduino mega and it's motherboard. The code has been ported to AVR32 GCC from Makerbot G3 branch (the V2 code),

Status: As of OCT 8th, 2011
The atmel CDC driver for USB is now running on the hardware with terminal emulators. The next step is to port it into tha main REPRAP32 application. I will probably try a USB branch on the main git repository. I have not yet published a branch and need to learn how to do it correctly.

I have some bare stepstick PCBs in hand now. So I can build a full stepstick based prusia with USB reprap32 for my daughter at college.

I checked the loading of the 64us stepper timer interrupt to see how much cpu time the steppers are using. I found 22% nominal and 36% worst case. This leaves 53 DMips of cpu still available.


I was able to drive the Gen3 stepper drivers on my Prusa with no issues. Just a cable slide from 10 pin to 6 pin IDC. I did not even change any settings in ReplicatorG!!! it just works.

Most of my issues were related to pin assignments and not having end stops
Properly terminated. They are now disconnected in the software build.


check out sites.google.com/site/reprap32

Electronic project boxes always seem to be the wrong size, and it always seems harder than necessary to fit PCBs. This box is something I always wanted!
You can set the outside dimensions, wall thickness, up to three levels of PCB support, up to 2 pairs of screws and specify apertures in the top and one end.
Apertures are useful for button or switch access, LCD views, cables or LEDs.
Because the end of the box is open, maximum access is available, and both the PCBs and the Lid can slide in together.
The box has rounded side edges, which feel nice in the hand.

Updated to V1.1 21st August 2011, for better accuracy in larger wall thicknesses.

Updated to v1.2. See thingiverse.com/thing:13979

With this mounting plate it is possible to attach a Sanguinololu PCB to a Mendle Prusa

this piggy bank is not hollow u will have to hollow it out for your own use if needed sry i dnt know how.

You need a board holder that is X by Y mm and mounts to holes that are W by Z mm? This is your script!

Typically when I need something like this, I am trying to match a board up with a mount that has a different hole spacing. In this SCAD file, you specify the dimensions of the board, and the distance between the center of the mounting holes. The script and your 3d printer does the rest.

This replaces the prior version. I added a version, "*_040pins", with larger pin holes to allow for larger non-stackable pins. The prior version works perfectly with female stackable header pins but not with many regular male pins.

These are modules for both EESchema and PCBNew in KiCad. They will allow you to make PCBs that have the appropriate header positions for a Arduino shield. I adapted files I found on the KiCad yahoo group (http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/kicad-users/files/Library/ArduinoShield.ZIP posted by axtz4) adding a version for the MEGA.

I have found many Eagle librarys but very few for KiCad, I hope this encourages others to use this great tool and share more KiCad files.