This is a work in progress. the goal is to build tslot and accessories.

A stand for a Craftsman multimeter that I own. The multimeter has its own stand, but it sucks, so I made my own by extruding a dxf drawing using OpenSCAD.

I'm pleased how it came out - it's stable and looks kinda cool. Because the contact area with the surface is quite small, it can skid a little on hardwood tables.

This is a doorbell for the London Hackspace.

It has a large red button, speaker grill, bi-coloured LED, and the hackspace H logo engraved on the side. It is controlled by an arduino, and when pressed it makes a noise, flashes the space's lights, puts a message on the LED notification board, and also sends a message to the #london-hack-space IRC channel.

This was made with the box-o-tron script, then tweeked and extra parts added in qcad.

The battery cover on our Keysonic wireless keyboard (http://www.ebuyer.com/product/104608) broke: the prongs failed resulting in a failed power, lost batteries and intense frustration. So we printed a new, improved replacement cover. Yes, 3d printing can produce something useful!

The original cover was recreated in qcad. The areas that experience most strain were reinforced with ribs or by thickening, while the flexibility of the latch was increased by lengthening the slot in the cover. After the second round of printing we had something robust, with a snug fit, that keeps the batteries in.

One risk of the current design is that the support buttresses for the prongs are quite fragile and can be torn off in the printing process. This can result in malformed hooks, but in our case everything came out fine.

The keyboard cover was printed on a Stratasys Dimension 768 SST, with breakaway support material. Feature resolution is 0.5mm.

This is a flexible strip of surface mount LEDs on flex (copper-coated polyimide film) backed with double-sided masking tape for the adhesive. It's currently running off AA batteries, though I plan to connect it to the extruder board in the future.

It is a small custom stop with various holes for different sized nails. With this little beauty you could just set a distant to a ledge and hammer away. Comes in very handy if you have to do a lot of nails for a Wardrobe back covering. Can also be used to mark points quickly a set distance for an edge.

It is a small back flow chiller. Through the outer cavity you are able to pump a hot or cold fluid. Through the inner tubing you may pump a fluid which in turn gets heated or chilled by the other fluid. The two fluid are except for the transfer of heat isolated form each other. They will not mix.

Trying to design something in QCAD for Ponoko fabrication? Here's the flow I've used to generate Ponoko-compatible SVG files.

Created for use with QCAD.
- Tested on Mac OS X
- Should work in Linux as-is.
- Probably need to install Cygwin on Windows to use "sed"
- May be adaptable for other 2D CAD tools.

I've chosen the Public Domain license so no one has to do silly things like credit me every single time they use the DXF files because it's a "derivative work". You're welcome to do so, but it's not expected.

Aside: I wrote this a while ago but forgot to publish it. Better late than never!

These are laser cut seed pod holders for a homebrew aeroponic setup I'm building. These should in theory fit an AeroGarden SpaceSaver 3 or 6, but as I don't have one to test with I'm not sure.

More details on my DIY Aeroponic setup are on my blog, kellbot.com

We're slowly replacing parts on our MakerBot with parts printed on our MakerBot. This is the latest thing: The small idler pulley for the Y axis. Yay!

I wanted a bracelet, but I suck at 3D modeling. Here's my attempt at DXF -> Blender to make a bracelet. Anyone know how to put a top/bottom on this thing?

The original pulley for the MakerBot is made from stacked lasercut wood. You have to glue it together, and it is fairly delicate in transit. This is sort of crappy, so I set out to see if it could be printed. The answer: yes. Yes, it can.

The technique I used was:

1. Design the profile in QCad to get it nice and accurate (sorry, blender's 2D CAD sucks! Snapping is crucial)
2. Import DXF into Blender
3. Select all, join object
4. 'Spin' around axis.
5. Win!

Seriously, what auto-fabrication website doesn't have its own dreamcatcher? This is the future, man! ;)