Liked chylld's ducted extruder carriage a lot, but decided I wanted to experiment with more airflow. One Sunon blower (PMB1297PYB1-AY.(2).GN though others may fit) and some measuring and there's this.

The part is design to allow bent threaded rods move more freely, so that the z-wobble is eliminated. However, the design is not perfected. I think it removes about 60% of the wobble. The design was inspired by chylld's corner set for rapman; in fact, I used the dimensions from the stl file to make this part. Thanks chylld.

I should mention, though, that this design would work better when the corner bed holder uses only one nut. I will be testing this with chylld's corner design.

VIDEO:
youtu.be/EsNoyRQnc-0

A gear with the words "I TOLD YOU SO" displayed as holes through the top. My first upload to thingaverse, and I am still waiting for my printrbot to arrive.

A compact Hot-end that can be build without high-tech tools and materials.
And you don't need great engineering skills either ;)
The total length can be as small as 30mm (between top mount and nozzle)!

This allows you to use a 60mm fan on a Rapman. It requires the other half of zip cooling rapman made by bonleo.

I have a Rapman 3.0 however and had to use bobc derivative instead of bonleo's original version.

It also includes a mounting point for the DC power socket.

After 2 days of constantly loosing my USB stick I finally decided enough was enough and designed this nifty little holder that fits on to any of the 8mm bars on a rapman (or anything else for this matter!)

This is just a derivative of a great spool holder from Charlespax, adapted with a plate to fit the BFB's printers. you don't need to drill to damage your printer to fix this stuff, this is a hook up thing!

This is a variation of thingiverse.com/thing:9459. It is an awesome design and I printed it for my iPad. I wanted one that I could put my iPhone 4 in when it was dark so I added some walls on the end to help me line it up. Thanks to Pointedstick for your awesome design!!! It works great!

This a simple sling. Be carefull it can really injure someone!
You are totally responsible for what you do with it.

This filament holder is a variation of Madox's Clip holder, I liked the idea of being mobile.
You can attach it about anywhere on BFB Touch or other printers.

These are the first of a range of templates that Beehive will be making available as we develop our Design Your Own Custom Eyewear Interface - please support us at projectpowerup.com/projects/26 if you print these for yourself!

Just made this to pinpoint any issue with my Prusa Mendel. It should work to test out any machine (in theory of course).

I created a 140mm one (since my calipers only go to 150mm) to check my Prusa Mendel, but I made one at 90mm too for the MakeBots out there.

The circle (which is half the size: 140mm object = 70mm circle) should be pretty hi-res so you can check if your belts are loose and stuff.

This also helps check the level of your build platform.

I used this object to really fine tuning my printer and seems to get things more accurate when measuring a printed object than just the carriage movements.

This is a one piece dual extruder plate that includes the linear bearing housings. To get rid of the spacer plate that goes between the extruder carriage and the extruder I countersunk the holes to allow a nut to fit between them. I have redesigned the unit to be printable using PLA and ABS so you can pick your preffered media. I have printed mine in PLA and ran it for a solid 24 hour 260c piece and it didnt not affect it.

However it has gotten rid of a major portion of what appears as Z axis wobble, any cylindrical item I print comes out almost completly smooth.

These bearing blocks will encase your linear bearings snugly and securely. Never again will you have to choose between damaging your rods, bearings, and plates by overtightening the bolts or leaving them too loose and having half the nuts spin off during superfast prints. >.<

Updates from jcoffland's original:

The orientation has changed; they are now set up to print flat. This means the weakest direction is no longer along the axis of the bolts, which in previous versions could cause them to delaminate and split.

Because of the orientation change, the nut rebates now have lofted cuts so they can still be printed without support.

The interfaces for the bearing holes and bolt holes have been modified so that the inside should not need filing. My bearings slid in perfectly straight off the printer -- snug but smooth.

There is now a version for the dual head carriage as well as the single head.

Modified versions of Tony's right-side Y belt holders (part 10030, wiki.bitsfrombytes.com/index.php?title=Spare_parts#Part:_10030) for the RapMan. Mine is a RapMan 3.1; install these on earlier versions at your own risk... might work, might not.

I've designed and included left Y-belt holder also, parts 10026 and 10036. These have the protrusions to hold the X limit switch and the extruder conduit.


Changes to original holders (also included in new parts):

Bolt hole edges have been redesigned to help clear the 8mm rod cutout. There should now be less filing needed (previously, skeinforge would on some settings actually build material into the 8mm rod cutout, which would then have to be removed).

Slots have been removed and replaced with holes, because they weren't working very well for their intended purpose and just added extra fussiness when tightening the belt..

Nut rebates have been added. They are slightly deeper than standard nut rebates, so the nut will still be captivated when the belt tensioner is loosened.

Update 2011-11-21: Y left back clamp tweaked and reuploaded because my belt was looking crooked. Turns out my pulley was out of place and that was most of the problem, but I did move the belt clamp inward (+X) by about a millimeter.

When I received my RAPMAN 3.1 and finished the assembly of the machine it was apparent that the mounting of the ELECTRONICS PACKAGE was horrible. Mounting it on the bottom front of the machine left it open to potential problems and in my case liquids, such as soda and drinks are always on my workbench.

The idea was to mount the Electronics in a BOX which was to be mounted to the vertical support of the machine and pivot able to allow me to see the controls when I am working from my computer station.

This design is a work in progress and as such I will be updating it in the near future. USE PLA as warpage in ABS is a problem.

I am a degreed Mechanical Engineer, who started his working life as a journeyman "TOOL & DIE MAKER". I retired as General Manager of an AeroSpace machine shop and an instructor in AUTOCAD, CNC Programing, and Apprentice training. If this is boasting let me say I have lived almost 7 decades and am proud of the knowledge I have gained and shared with others.

The cover is the next step once I lengthen some wires that I cut to short. Once it is done I will add the cover.

If you have any questions please contact me at MFGGURU@COX.NET

This is a cable clamp I made for electric car conversions.
I use this with the existing throttle cable to connect it to an electronic hall-effect throttle pot.
It could be used for any cable of the same end bit design.
ie Brake & Clutch cables on Motor Bikes.

This is a direct replacement for the Rapman 3.1 arylic driven sprocket on the driven axes. 3 of these are used in the Rapman.

This sprocket is referred to often and referenced to the Rapman Wiki. I put a copy up here in case something happens to the Wiki and the file goes away. It replaces part 10014 and the two stars above/below it. File's origin is here: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Spare_parts

The grub screw fell out of my acrylic Z drive sprocket. When reinstalling it, I heard a click... and noticed that the belt would lift up on the sprocket then fall down into the teeth. Tightening the grub screw expanded the acrylic so it wasn't working with the belt properly. I promptly printed the ABS sprocket from this file and am using it now.

this piggy bank is not hollow u will have to hollow it out for your own use if needed sry i dnt know how.

In the parent version I had trouble lining up with the mounting holes in the X carriage, so I made this OpenSCAD version.

Update 1: hole sizes were a little small, enlarged slightly. Otherwise seems OK.

This is a paper airplane that I was tought to fold when I was a kid of about 12 or 13 years old. It is a design that stuck with me ever since and it's actualy the only design I use when folding a paper airplane as it nearly always flies quite well.

So, I was wondering how a plastic version would fly. I used a sheet of A4 paper and folded a paper version first and tested it's flight pattern first for a fairly neutral trajectory before slightly stalling and diving just a little. Depending on the wing section widths it could either div too much from te go or stall too easily. The best is normaly to aim for no stall or a very slight stall. A slight stall normally helps a bit when it goes into a slight dive as it usually pulls out of the dive until it stalls again and dive again. Depending on the height it was thrown from it can fly quite far with this stall/dive effect.

Due to printing in plastic I decided to add a hook under the nose to launch it with an elastic band. So I thought it's only fair to also do some "tool" to attach the elastc band to, to allow for easy operation.

I am still waiting for it to finish printing...so I don't yet know if it will fly

This is a work derived from curiosity. I just wanted to know how it would be to juggle a printed devil stick. For those how do not yet know it, a devil stick is one of the lesser known objects for juggling, not as common as balls, clubs or diabolos. It is juggled by controlling it with two control sticks, that you hold in your hands.

The great advantage of a printed stick over a normal stick made of wood is that it can be disassembled, if you need to stow it away for travel.

The result of my juggling experiment: it is a bit heavy for my taste (250g) but juggles allright. I can perform all the tricks I normally do with it as well. And it doesn't need tape because of its fine surface structure.

This is just of my mostly futile attempts to help our childrem to tidy their things up. At least they'vo got a proper place for their toothbrushes now.
M and T are the initial letters of their respective names.

Inspired by thingiverse.com/thing:1703 I created this general purpose tool adapter for the RapMan. Source files below so you can easily adapt the design to whatever tool you want to mount on your machine.

Happy making.

Designed to hold my HTC inspire + case either vertically or horizontally.

The Stand_Auto.scad file will auto-generate a stand for you if you supply your phone's dimensions (length, angle and thickness). Its much improved IMO.

These pillow blocks wrap the RapMan X and Y axis bearings in a nice comfy pillow instead of pinching them between bolts and acrylic sheets.

Why would you want to do this?

* Bearings run smoother when not pinched.
* It greatly reduces the RapMan's rain of falling nuts and washers.
* You can tighten these down with only a single hex wrench.
* You wont easily snap the acrylic parts when you tighten them.
* They are more stable.
* They look cool.

These are similar to the pillow blocks that can be found here: wiki.bitsfrombytes.com/index.php?title=Spare_parts but are a new design with several features the others don't have:

* These pillow blocks are not closed and can be installed with out taking the bearings off the rail so they require much less disassembly.
* There is a backstop inside which makes centering the bearing easy.
* There are insets for the bottom nuts which both keeps them from spinning out and makes them easier to tighten.
* These don't change the height of the extruder or x-axis.
* They come with a cool bearing packing tool.

These were designed to be easy to print and to fit the nuances of the RapMan. If you want a general purpose pillow block then the front x-axis block is a good place to start.

All of the STL files were generated from the OpenSCAD and .dxf files. The .dxf was created with QCad.

I also highly recommend replacing the z-axis drive gear with the one at the bottom of this page: wiki.bitsfrombytes.com/index.php?title=Spare_parts and replacing your extruder gears with these: thingiverse.com/thing:4650 I haven't gotten these: thingiverse.com/thing:4398 to print cleanly yet but they look interesting too.

With these pillow blocks and the replacement gears my RapMan is starting to become a reliable and smooth running printing machine. Maybe they should call it the StRapMan.

Support for the cooling fan for rapman 3.1 (this is my first post, sorry if it is not clear)

I decided I to trash my LED strip @ thingiverse.com/thing:8712 due to performance issues. Either I used an incorrect sized LED (unlikely as it was calculated for 10 LEDs) or the LEDs are of inferior quality as the brightness slowly started fading over the course of a few days.

This past weekend I bought a 64 LED headlamp. It works on 3 x 1.5V AA batteries but I'll soon attach wires to the battery holder to power it from an alternative source.

The forehead pad where the head strap also secures to is held to the light unit with 3 small screws. I designed the mounting to be screwed in it's place using the same screws.

The light's base mounting can hinge vertically. The swivel mount attaches that in turn to the "frame mounting" and can turn horizontally. In my case I designed the frame mount to be mounted on the dowel uprights of my filament spool mount @ thingiverse.com/thing:8924

This filament spool mount is specific for the BFB 1kg filament spools.

The spool wheels fit into the spool's hub where the hub's inside diameter is 72mm to 76mm and the wheel's lip diameter is 82mm to prevent it from going into the spool's hub.

The wooden dowel rods used for the framework are 10mm diameter. They might not be sufficient for 2 x 2.3kg filament spools but seem to hold the 2 x 1kg spools fine.

I'm sure that with some gussting / bracing even these 10mm dowels should be able to handle 2 x 2.3kg filament spools. That is defintely something I will look into.

[EDIT] - 2011/06/03 - I have uploaded new parts with the holes slightly opened up to allow for less work to make the dowel rods fit.