4 of these will support a 120mm fan for you RepRap. Your fan needs to have 3-4mm attachment holes for this to work.

atom （β版）用のZ軸の微調整用のパーツです。
・M5ステンキャップ用の穴はタップを切るのですが、
　全部を切らずに若干残しておくこと。ちょっと堅めがいいですようです。

Designed with OpenSCAD.

Assembly guide:
1. Print a cover normally
2. Print a fan blade upside down
3. Attach wires to a motor
4. Glue the motor onto the cover (There are holders for the motor)
5. Insert the fan blade onto the mounting screw of the motor (You must use glue to secure the joint)

Motor's max body size: 28 * 18 mm (D*H)
Recommended mounting screw diameter: 1.6 mm but you can adjust the size of the hole with drill if necessary.

You can buy any suitable motor on ebay but you can use something like this :
ebay.com/itm/3-6V-1700-3400-RPM-2-Pin-Connector-Solar-Power-Micro-DC-Motor-/321058508742?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac0940fc6

This is a case for the Full Graphic Smart LCD Controller. reprapdiscount.com/home/34-full-graphic-smart-lcd-controller.html

The Sheliak Spool Holder is designed to get the filament spool moved off of your 3D printer's frame, and snug alongside the base. It's designed for easy adjustment between different spool sizes.

The Shlieak Spool Holder is our newest addition to the Sheliak component set for the PrismX. This spool holder is for the PrismX 3D Printer (http://prismx.terawattindustries.com) which works with thing:84678. It should also work with other frame designs with slight modification.

It has three (3) feet for support and is designed to attach to the machine base, as a fourth support (it's not intended for standalone use). It uses acetal bushings, and can also be used with thrust bearings or 608RS (or 608ZZ) bearings. It's adjustable by sliding the outer arm in/out depending on the width of the filament spool.

For the PrismX we we have rubber pads that attach to the bottom of the feet. Felt should work also to dampen vibration.

This is designed to mount onto the left-rear corner of a PrismX. It's designed to be compatible with any open-frame machine, really. To modify it to work with MendelMax, Prusa i3, Aluminatus, Prusa, and other machines you'll need the parametrized SCAD files, which are being published. As always we'll link to our github repo when that happens. We'll need to modify the height of the feet for those designs. The mounting plate is made for 20mm aluminum t-slot extrusion, but we can modify it to attach to rounded frame rails also.

UPDATE: The arms, dowels, and a few other things are revised after the initial prints, so we're re-printing. The base is rather large, over 260mm, to accomodate 2kg spools. It won't be printable for most, but we have ways to make it. The base could be made with a laser-cutter from acrylic or other materials. I modeled this in OpenSCAD for 1kg and 2kg spools, and the spacing required for 1kg spools still wouldn't work to get it under 200mm.

To see it flying click the video button or watch it on [You Tube](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-lhAp11iZY)

First of all: Yes, it flies wonderful, easy to fly with surprising self stabilisation. But a little bit faster as motor glider generally use to fly ;-)
And the best off all: It lands by itself...

An adjustable Z-stop for a ReoRap Huxley

A full collection of all the printed parts needed to make a Diamond Age 'Rroofl' 3D Self-Replicating Printer. More info on the wiki at reprap.org/wiki/Rroofl

I wanted something minimal to mount the [reprapdiscount](http://www.reprapdiscount.com/electronics/19-smart-lcd-controller.html) on my prusa mendel. This uses a rehash of the `sanguinololu-holder.scad` file from the prusa mendel source. Print 2, clip onto your machine (backs first), then attach the screen.

Leaves the SD card slot accessible for auto printing.

I got the pictured control knob from here: thingiverse.com/thing:35438

**Not ready to go pro (reprappro that is), but want a step up from your old, worn out and heavy extrusion system?** Then you're in the right place. This what I am calling a *semi-professional x-carriage*, in that it allows you to attach a single reprap pro bowden extruder to your prusa mendel. I have had a great deal of success with this upgrade.

You can get the bowden parts from reprap pro here: emakershop.com/Seller=869 .you'll need to print the extruder and mounts too, get them here: thingiverse.com/thing:20968.

There is a small foot sticking out the side, which is just a little nubbin I stick on to push my end-stop switch.

I am designing my own reprap 3d printer. No cad design, just all in my head, I might put up a few concept sketches sometime....

Frame will be 25mm angle alu. with printed junction blocks.

Yhe XY will be based of CORE(x,y), which Marlin supports.
Covering the frame will be perspex sides, front door, and ply back and bottom...

Also have a ply, perspex hood.

Gregs extruder converted to bowden.

Build volume I am hoping for is 210x210x200+ using std reprap PCB heated bed.

3 main reasons for this is to create an enclose build chamber, with motors and electrics mounted outside at the back,to use the core XY to reduce the moving mas of the head to be able to print at 100mm/s + speed and higher objects ( enclosed chamber help reduce warping and cracking between layers...

Printable one-piece y-axis-frog for Huxley-printers.

Simple holder for the MiniExtruder to the Huxley frame. Fits also to the original RepRapPro Extruder (new design).

Goes over a 608zz bearing for a GT2 belt on a RepRap Prusa Mendel. Meant for a belt 6mm in width.

Z height regulator for thingiverse.com/thing:18384

Just a little redesign to the 'Huxley Fold Beef'd X axis LM6UU mount's ' from natko:
- x-idler: added a spacer for the bearing to work without washers
- x-motor: cut away additional material for the endstop-pusher and added an adjustable endstop bolt.

After printing just insert a M3-nut, a small spring and a M3-bolt to have a fine adjustable endstop. Make sure your endstop-switch is exactly below the screw.

Mount on the X axis rods that pretrude, you need the version of the X idler that has this (or drill out).

Improved version, main improvement is the multiple places that the endstop screw can be mounted.

Printed off the original and it fits perfectly, so haven't changed the important parts, so this will work. Haven't printed off yet though.

Modified so that it's flat, easier to tessilate on bed to print 2 at once.

Left and right are now the same, so print 2, or I have fitted 2 in one STL file with them as close as possible, and in a useful orientation (for small beds).

Can be fitted without disessembling the printer.

This is a linear delta 3D printer based on Johann's Rostock which has been enlarged to acomodate roughly double the print volume.

All of the 3D printed & laser cut parts have been made thanks to the Artilect Fablab Toulouse.

This is still work in progress so below you will find a blog like story of the build & set-up:
- 19/05/2013 Fighting with the Cat
- Today I tried to print something beter than a cube but still relatively small & simple So I went for Lucy the cat thingiverse.com/thing:24255 which is small & rather low difficulty.
- Yesturday wen printing the cube I realised that it required cooling so I installed a PC fan (which was the cause of follow up difficulties)
- As you can see on the second row of the picture there has been several failures before getting something that looks like the STL. To make a long story short temperature is measured on the top part of the Brass part of the J-Head hotend, which hsa been a bit isolated with layers of kapton tape. however the tip of the hotend is not insulated and would get some degrees colder suficiently to reach very hygh viscosity of the PLA dramatically reducing the flow.
and at the same time cloging the teeth of the filament pushing axis.
- Increasing temperature by 10° & cleaning the extruder was the solution.
- Looking at the last Lucy printed it is not yet perfect the layers are not well alligned, so my next task will be to fight the play to ensure everything is alligned.
- In addition I need to work on the extruder as for the moment the Wade's extruder sit on top of the platform limiting the movment of the printers and I have not yet ordered the tube to make the bowden extruder which was initially planned. As I start to realise that booth systems have different advantage & weekness. I guess the solution could be to devise an interchangable system able to do booth.

- 18/05/2013 Geting a bit better...
- Just made two more print reducing temperature & extruder feed and now it start to look as a very small cube 10mmx10mm. (see the picture)

- 17/05/13 First Print!!!
- After fighting without sucess to have Repetier working I guess I will need to get an atmega1284 to replace the 644 that came with the Gen7 but which lacks memory for Delta printers.
- I finnaly manage to get a 10uH self to replace the 100uH original one and got rid of the brown outs
- Over the week I had to transport the printer a few hundred kilometers by car and apparently it did notlike it as play started to appear on some components and notably the joints.
- Very late tonight I finally manage to attempt a first print: a 10mm cube, there was to much plastic feed and the hot end was too hot, so the result is not great see the picture and the video youtu.be/8jBBFH91Mn0.
- Still some work to do to have high quality prints. Any way I'm very happy to be finnaly able to have a first print.

- 12/05/13 A bit frustrating
- I finnally managed to have the repeter firmware heating the hot end (the temperature measurement will need calibration)
- For some strange reason it needs to be on the bed sensor plug & not the extruder, I guess I'l need to go & see in the Pin layout of the firmware.
- But with repetier I do not manage to get the axis moving !
- So I have the axis moving on the Marlin & extruder heating on Repetier...

- 11/05/13 Trying to get it hot
- Assambled the hot end
- Assambled the extruder (Wade) initial plan was tu use it deported (Bowden) with a Teflon tube to link it to the hot end but I do not yer have the tube so it will be mounted directly on the platform. limiting speed & amplitude in the mean time.
- With a friend we assembled the hot end to the extruder and then tryed it on the board. We were quite disapointed to see that there was still a 0°C temperature reading. I just realosed now that on the 06/05 the quick fix that I used to stop the broun out problem disables the temperatures. and I could not yet purchace the termistance to definately correct the brownout problem.
- Therfore I tryed the Repetier-firmware with the lower memory settings & it seems to work. (it still needs to be configured properly for the rest.
- Tryed again the heater with the Repetier-Firmware and there it was displaying -55°C which felt strange as earlier we tested the thermistor resistance & it was around 114k Ohms.


- 10/05/13 Plenty of problems & some solutions:
- After all the problem described bellow it finaly made some first decent drawings see the video: youtu.be/04nmR4zaZQw
- Marlin Configuration Files & Test STL used for the drawings added to the downloadable files.
- Found the solution for the homming problems from yesturday Had to reduce Max speed in the firmware.
- Still one of the axis was not moving properly. At first I thought it was losing steps so I tried to increase the Driver's Current without sucess, I even switched the Drivers without results, to finnaly find that it was the pulley that was not tight enough.
- Once that was solved I went back to drawing experiments and for some reason the drawings were to small & the overal movements where shorter than expected, after verifying all the set-up of the firmware was more or less correct found one error on the DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET which was 22 on the original rostock & now is 28.0mm but this did not solve the main problem. Therfore I started to measure the belt pitch which was 2.5mm as expected and I went to count the numbers of teeth and there I understood where the problem was comming from: The pulley which I thought was an 18teeth one was in fact a 16teeth one. Once this corrected in the firmware It gave much better results.
- Still some issues of steps lost from time to time
- Glonally it looks rather sensitive to the speed the 400 steps per revolution & the 16 teeth T2.5 pulley means that it is hitting the maximum steps/s limits of the arduino
- On top of that there is some issues of repetability of the starting height due to the endstops set-up which is not yet perfect
- With all this I did not get a chance to try again the Repeter Firmware.


- 09/05/13
- Installation of end-stops
- Start of calibration
- It made it's first drawings (It is not great for the time being)
- Some issues with homming: when moves comands are sent it moves correctely but when homming the steppers vibrates and nothing moves. I assume it is a error in my ste-up of the firmware, or too low current in the stepers drivers TBC.
- Had some feedback on the issue with Repetier forums.reprap.org/read.php?267,206320 which should come from an excess usage of memory so I will try to lower the memory useage as advised and I will let you know.

- 07/05/13 Platform fitted & moving
- Diagonal rods Cut from The carbon Arrows & glued to the Jaws
- Got some extra MDF to rigidify the structure at some later point
- Fitted Diagolal rods & Platform to the Printer
- Tried some movements: it is not perfectely flat yet nor rapid but it is going the right way. Here is a video of some of the first moves youtu.be/qAyjTx0MV_U
- The Z stepper seems a bit week I will need to adjust the power on the driver.

- 06/05/13 IT MOVES!!!
- Did not work on the structure today
- Temporarly gave-up on Repieter Firmware and moved to the modified Marlin by Johann
- Got Brown out issue on Marlin as described in the following thread github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/issues/174 Got to change L1 on the Gen7 V1.4.1 as explained on the last post. I used the temporary fix from the first post as I do not require heating.
- Had to invert the Pinning of the steppers for them to turn on the correct direction
- For some strange reason the M80 comand needs to be entered manually
- Now all the three axis moves corectly on delta mode!

- 05/05/13 Now it looks like something
- Installed The belts & Steppers on each axis
- Assembled the Three Axes with the frame
- Still fighting with Repetier Firmware to make it work in delta mode

- 04/05/13 Start of the assembly
- The three columns of the printer are now complete
- All motors & endstops are properly wired & tested on cartesian mode
- Configured & uploaded the delta mode of Repetier but for some reason the stepers do not move in delta mode. Still need to beter understand config...

- 03/05/13 Back to the printer after a forced pause.
Today I have been playing with the Gen7 & the stepers:
- Ran the Test set-up with sucess
- Installed the repetier firmware 0.82.2 & tested with sucess the cartesian mode steppers turning ok.
- Started to set-up the delta mode of the repetier firmware but haven't had the time to test it today.

Enlarged version of Johann's Rostock adapted with the folowing features:
- 400x400x500mm expected build area
- 0.08mm theoretical vertical presision (400step/rev + 18 teeth T2.5 Pulley)
- Carriages with self tensioning & play elimination

It is just the begining... Almost everything is available now it is time to start building.












To be Continued

Enlarged Rostock Carriage from Jcrocholl modified to:
- Include a belt tensionning device
- Take 12x1000mm smooth rods and KB-12-WW Linear Bearings
- Should clip the bearings (tested)
- 0.10° bearing holder angles to compensate play
- Changed groove to improve fabricability
- T2.5 self locking belt mount based on belt_coupler_v6 from Okatake

Some slight updates for better printing of the belt coupler

This is a mount for the Raspberry Pi to Prusa i3 reprap printer.

The Pi is attached to the mount with M3 screws and nuts and the mount itself then clips onto the aluminium frame of the i3.

Network your i3 with a Raspberry Pi and Octoprint and a suitable 5v power supply. I added an L78S05CV 2A 5v fixed regulator to the RAMPS 12v supply.

Panel for RepRapDiscount Smart Controller. I like the cases but really wanted to panel mount mine, and I wanted the SD card to be perpindicular to the rest of the board. I used an SD breakout board from SparkFun and made a slip fit for it. Results are great. Still finalizing files for the knob and reset button.

Note:

I had to split the file to fit it on my machine :( I need some more tuning and hopefully I can print it better next time.

Suppose you want to mock up the mounting of a NEMA stepper motor, or position mounting holes in another part... Now you can. Use the STLs either virtually or print them and use them for alignment purposes.

WARNING DEPRECIATED: Replaced by thingiverse.com/thing:80425

Experience feedback on printed part:
- Bearing clips worked perfectly
- Bearing angles worked well no play! But 0.25° is to much and the carriage did not travel freely
- Belt mount did not print corectely

Enlarged Rostock Carriage from Jcrocholl modified to:
- Take 12x1000mm smooth rods and KB-12-WW Linear Bearings
- Should clip the bearings (Not yet tested)
- 0.25° bearing holder angles to compensate play
- Changed groove to improve fabricability
- T2.5 self locking belt mount based on belt_coupler_v6 from Okatake

Edit: I have now added a GT2 belt clamp so the motors can be in the middle as well! I also added some simple boolean variables in the .scad file to enable/disable what to use. What I find work here is to put in both ends into the clamp, and then tighten it with a m3 screw. Seems to hold it quite well! Then, to tighten the belt, you just move the top up.

This is the paramereized version of the Cerberus pup vertical carriage you can find here: youtube.com/watch?v=Ypm4oHYM4Uo and here: youtube.com/watch?v=_Mn4U0srZGg

I got the original from Steve (thanks Steve!), but wanted to add belt support as well. So I figured I do it with OpenSCAD. There really shouldn't be much to change, as it should be pretty tweaked and ready to use as is. Still, I like having it in .scad format.

Works superb on Openbeam! The Dual 623 V Roller from 3d.grabercars.com/?product=11-delrin-roller-with-608-bearing-fits-1515-series-extrusion-from-8020-net-copy really makes this excellent!

I also love the tightener design.

Furthermore, I added support for belts, using a clamp. Since I have a few of those Openbeam brackets, I also needed to put that belt on the side, which is why I also have that "belt holder" which can be screwed on the side and can be seen in the images attatched here. So, with this, it's up to you to use fishing line, or a belt. And, the belt can be either in the middle or on the side using the belt holder.

This is my first, minor, improvement to the Reprap Mendel design. I've made a new design for the Y-axis limit switch bracket.

This has better clearance between itself and the y carriage that moves over the top of it. The fixing bolt it angled up 30 degrees to make it easier to adjust.

Yet another Mendel90 spool holder. I designed this because I had a piece of 10mm round steel lying about and I wanted a pair of brackets in which it would snap-fit.

The snap-fit works fine and the bracket seems sturdy enough. I have noticed, though, that the back plates of the printer are quite flexible. This might be a problem: if you bend the plates outward far enough, the rod cal fall out. I don't think this will be a problem in daily operations, but I'll have to keep an eye on it.

**Update (v1.1)** (20-4-2013): made the screw holes a bit elongated, so the holes in the back plates don't have to line up perfectly.

**Update (v1.2)** (20-4-2013): improved the rod support bit, with a better and more predictable snap fit setting.

I Still need to add the BOM list and instructions to assembly it, although if you look at the renders, it's quite straight forward for the people who can't wait for it.

The files are free for everyone to use, replicate for your mates, your brother, sister, neighbor. But It has it's limitations, no Commercial use of the files thank you :).

Please if you like this design and you are downloading it, press the like button. It shows some appreciation and gives me motivation :)

Dremel Flex Shaft Mount for the RepRap, using a quickfix mounting support (like the one used in a Prism 1.5 to quickly mount - and dismount - the extruder on the carriage).

You can attach your Dremel Flex Shaft on it and then be able to change from your extruder to your milling tool and back in a second (if you've got the right carriage).

The "quickfix" part can also be used to attach any standard M4 50mm extruder on a quickfix dedicated carriage.

DEPRECIATED: Replaced by thingiverse.com/thing:79147

I'm not convinced this is the best implementation but I want do build it rapidly so I went for limited change on the carriage.

Once the printer will be working I will try to spend some time on it to review the branch attachment to limit potential mouvments due to play in the bearings:
- Allignment of links to the center planes of the bearings booth vertically & horisontally
- Alignement of the belt mount to the center between the bearings
- M3 Screw based Bearing housings