I was tired of adjusting my extruder idler block for proper tension. I think that it would be much easier to adjust tension if I have an easy-grip nut cap. So here it is!

This is combined carriage and extruder for 70mm spaced vertical x-axis. It uses 4 lm8uu bearings and can be removed from the machine without tools or disassembly of the x-axis. With the idler open the hobbed bolt and gear can be removed and cleaned without tools. I've done an extruder test and it rides nicely on the rails, but i wont be able to print anything with it until i build the rest of the machine. The SCAD file is a bit of a mess not everything is derived from the variables at the top.

The library paratslot.scad allows you to create parametric tslot and accessories.
even mix them in a single render.
Make tslot of any dimension.
30x30, 30x60, 20x40...

2012/02/10 fixed some bugs.

Todo:
add stepper supports,...

These are the printable opto flags we used on our first batch of printers that have been going out on Ebay.

Note: The Y and Z flag require extra length of the X and Y axis smooth rod for mounting. The X flag mounts onto the wades extruder with the mounting bolt (this will not work with the accessible extruder).

This contains all of the base parts for the printrbot in one tiny tray.

(Extruder, Gears & Clamps Sold Separately. ;) )

Full Tray Fits on a 7" x 6" Build Platform!

2 Smaller trays:
Tray 1of2: 4.7" x 4.5"
Tray 2of2: 4" x 4"

I had some trouble squeezing down tray 1 any smaller... Anyone with smaller then a 5" build platform will need to build Tray #1 on their own...

(Tray a #1 contains: 2 Base's, Bearing Guide & X Motor Mount)

Same as thingiverse.com/thing:14742 but for aluminum extrusion, like the MendleMax.

Same as thingiverse.com/thing:14742 but for aluminum extrusion, like the MendleMax.

This is a plate to mount gen6 electronics on the side of a Prusa Mendel RepRap. It was designed to be cut on a laser cutter out of 3mm acrylic or plywood, but it should be easy to cut on a cnc router too.

The guys at Moving Brands challenged us to help them print their own Chocolate Advent Calendar in a month.

We already knew about the Frostruder, and had most of the parts to build a RepRap Prusa, so the solution seemed obvious. They ordered a Frostruder, and we got busy building their Prusa.

Things got exciting when we tried to mount the Frostruder to the Prusa carriage - it was just too big and bulky!

Luckily, inspiration struck. We stripped down the Frostruder to the bare bones, and used the Prusa to print its own adaptor.

Lo and behold, chocolate printing goodness!

Moving Brands Advent Promotional Video: vimeo.com/33775105
Moving Brands Advent Calendar: movingbrands.com/advent

This is a tribute for our teacher Obijuan ( thingiverse.com/obijuan ) that is among the ones that introduced me to the world of 3d printing.

It is a custom Wade extruder gear that has some Rebel Alliance symbol as holes on it.

This is a bumper that fits on the ends of the threaded rod for a RepRap. It's designed to fit the 8mm threaded rod but should fit the SAE version as well.

And it's not that I'm a klutz, it's just I have a tendency to think about other things and I bump into stuff :)

A 3D printable home position opto flag switch for the reprap mendel.

all 3 templates come without art, but add art and build your mod. It's pretty much that simple...

Thanks to sublime's settlers clone for giving me an excuse to make an almost perfect tile for all. Both intersection shapes are in the tar ball, slightly loose so that if you don't want to do any knife work after the print - well you don't have to.

This is all the skp files that Brook Drumm uploaded. I have simply put them all in one file and arranged them how I think they go. Can't be exactly right till I get mine. I'm a backer of his Kickstarter project.

Thanks Brook!

One part is still not a skp file. It's easy to pick out. It's an stl and it's the front part in the image. Lots of lines show up.

This is a TinTin-Cartoon-Style Rocket for 3D printing. It was inspired by the thing thingiverse.com/thing:4509 by twotimes. It is not a derivate since it was completely rebuilt/drawn from scratch (nevertheless was it inspired by the version published by twotimes which is a really nice and large model).
My aim was to make it really easy to assemble and print. It consists of 12 printed parts only and just one threaded rod and two nuts are necessary to assemble.

Tech. Data:
Height: 160mm
Biggest part (max. spred x/y/z): 67mm/75mm/55mm
Threaded rod dimensions: M3 x 125mm
Nuts: 1x M3 Nylock / 1x M3 standard nut

Hint:
Scale all parts by factor 1.272727 to get a M4 Version - will be 204mm high and use a M4 rod of 159mm and M4 nuts. Should still be printable on a makerbot (largest spread of foot-part will be 97.5mm). You will perhaps like to redrill the holes for the m4 rod with a 4.2mm drill (or lightly rework with a round file) for easy assembly...

I got sick of breaking other endstop holders when trying to mount it on the smooth rod. On a whim I decided to model a hinge. It printed a working hinge the first time!

This one fits my endstop switches which are 5.6x6.45x12.75. It clamps with one M3x10 screw.

v2 Update: The hinge pin wasn't printing all the way through because of an error in the model. This was making the hinge weaker. v2 Fixes this problem. I also added the gcode. It is 0.3mm layer height 0.5mm extrusion width, 0.35 infill.

A simple handle with hooks to carry multiple bags at once.

No idea how practical this item will be, feedback would be appreciated.

The goal is to build a frame model for a 3d printer using aluminium profiles and accessories using the library profil3030.scad from thingiverse.com/thing:15026

Currently there are four demo frames:
* a 3D printer like with bed.
* a CNC with rods.
* a CNC with pinion and racks.
* a triangular frame.

All the frames are parametrics.

Update:
2012-02-05 changed the triangular frame (frame4) to be parametric like the rest.

This is my 3rd version of printable LM8UU bushings.

Prusa suggested to me that putting some spring/give in them could be a good idea, so I gave it a go.

They're more than strong enough to handle the forces they get subjected to, and as an added bonus they're far less likely to crack your X-ends when you insert them since they'll happily compress a little.

I replaced a set of my original bushings with these, they're still wearing in but seem to work great so far. It certainly solved the chatter problem I had!

PLEASE NOTE: ABS is not a suitable material for bushings. It's too soft so it has lots of friction and wears quickly. These printed in ABS would be a novelty only, not a useful part.

PLA works well, as will any other hard plastics.

volcom logo

This is a moderately larger 3d printer based on the ever popular Mendel, Prusa.

The build envelope in mm is 300,250,150 (x,y,z respectively).

There are a lot of subtle differences in this design that I made to suit my own needs. For instance; the
X-ends are interchangable and lock onto the smooth rods from the sides to prevent splitting along layers.
And the A-side threaded diagonal rods are outside of the front and rear cross rods for better clearance
with the extruder at high z-limit. I reconfigured the vertexes to make that possible.

Yes, yet another filament spool hanging device.

I realized if I attached the spool to the underside of the small wire rack shelf I have next to my printer for my notebook that I could put tools and other things on the space underneath it.

This should work for most types of wire rack shelving. This is set for a 90 degree hanging angle on a shelf 14" (356cm) wide. If your shelf is smaller or larger you might want to edit the .step files and change the angle of the rods. (Sorry, i'm not an openscad kind of thinker, heh)

I also wanted a way to easily change spools (I keep my spares bagged up so they do not absorb Seattle moisture.) So the spool "axle" just sits in the sockets which allows it to be easily interchanged with my other spools. The outside nuts on the spool rod are not tightened down, but rather I have 2 nuts on the ends of the rod acting as a cap.

Low profile Wades type extruder with tilting screws that eliminate the need to fully remove screws during filament swaps.
I only use one screw, but there are provisions for two. Also, I don't find it necessary to use springs, but you can with this design as well.

Derivative design of cibomahto's original design for a sleek, minimal toilet paper holder here; thingiverse.com/thing:5938

• Added ribs for support at connection to base
• Reduced diameter to accomodate more manufacturers' toilet paper rolls
• Download & print with or without the words, "Oh crap! Time to buy more toilet paper" embossed

This is a design study for a EggBot made from RepRap parts. It could also be used as a generic lathe.

This assembly allows the use of a spiral cut coupler on the z-axis. It uses a thrust washer assembly to eliminate leadscrew end-play, and otherwise corrects wobble in the z-axis.

Build a name plate with any text!

OpenSCAD script allowing you to define the text and the script will generate a nametag.

Here are all the 3D printed parts for the RepRapPro Ltd version of Huxley. Despite what it says on the left, it was primarily created by Jean-Marc Giacalone. I added a few bits...

SeeMeCNC H-1 60 Degree Bar Clamp

This is designed to fit on top of a Sanguinololu mounted to a Prusa Mendel. The screws holding the pcb are used to secure this in place as well. It has a little room for adjustment so you can use several size fans with it.

The fan grill in the photo is thingiverse.com/thing:16610