A co-worker has a Traxxas JATO 3.3 radio controlled race car. He broke one of the struts and has ideas to make a custom setup. I worked with him for about an hour to sketch this up. It hasn't been printed yet but looks promising.

Notice the "JC" for his initials built into the structure. 3D Printing for the win!

There is a support peg included to hold the ball joint up. I suggested just using a bolt through a real ball joint, but the customer insisted we try it. Clip the support off and round off as needed.

Say hello to Mikey - my first 3dprint design with Moi3d. If there was more time i'd have added additional gear. Right now it's just his glasses ^^. The final printfile does not have the rounded corners you see in the screenies due to printability. The file contains stl and stp BTW.

He won an awesome award from maker industries ^^

grabcad.com/challenges/the-makerbot-robot-challenge/results

This is a mount for an ASUS Xtion 3D sensor (similar to the Primesense and Kinect sensors) for the TurtleBot turtlebot.com store.iheartengineering.com/TurtleBot-Complete-Kit-Assembled/dp/B005SX6MCO mobile robot. These parts are available from the I Heart Engineering store. store.iheartengineering.com/I-Heart-Engineering-TurtleBot-Mounting/dp/B0073NXVW6

The clips are printable on a Thing-o-Matic if you print them sideways.

I recently built the Ninja CNC kit from CNCSNAP.com. They include some pretty good harware but I wanted my machine to be able to cut heavier material. So i began making upgrades to the machine. I replaced the laser cut motor mounts with HEAVY DUTY 3D printed ones that are probably a little "over" built. But stronger is better right? I also designed a very robust tool holder that fits the motor they supply with the kit. I love this tool holder, it works great. Note: you will need to drill a hole in the end of the clamp to bolt it together. I recommend a small diameter machine screw. Next I stiffened up the guide rods with a set of support claps on each rod. I made them slightly under sized so you will need to run a 1/4" drill through them. My "Y" axis coupler broke so I replaced it with thing 7059. I can't find the corner bracket file I used to stiffen up the frame but I'll post it when I do. I also bolted together my "Z" carriage because it wanted to split with putting the tool holder one it.
If you have any questions or want me to make other upgrade/ design changes just let me know.
Thanks and I hope you put these files to good use.

youtube.com/watch?v=GYD6TE_If6U

Tophat not included!

Mr Clicky is your desktop friend. Design and make him custom arms, legs and hats. :)

He stands aprox 240mm high when assembled (he's BIG). If you want to print him you might need to play around with the file a little; he's very intricate (thin walls, hollow) and was designed for and made using SLS at shapeways. If you scale him down and do a print please show me! I'd love to see.

If you must have your own Mr Clicky but can't print him, I'll be putting him on shapeways shortly. :)

Toy Soldiers Unite Robot Mascot!

Another quickie model made for people to have fun with!
When printed this model should stand about five inches tall!

This one is a mostly static model; being new to having a printer I have yet to determine how much movable parts can be made with the printers so I didn't want to (yet) try pushing my limits.

Being a quickie model there are a few errors on it, but they shouldn't prevent the model from printing correctly. I tried to prevent any undercuts on it; if I missed any please let me know!

(I would like to note that due to the ABP on the makerbot I am unable to test the model at this time due to leaning on tall prints; once I get a metal HBP surface in I'll run it myself!)

My MakerBot's musical tones often set digital mood for each of my lan parties. It furiously pumps out prototypes of whatever models we throw at it between matches. Then we thought why not bring our game to life?

Nothing good ever comes from caffeine induced delusions during 4:00AM LAN parties. Well that never stopped us before. So this is the first step in creating a fully motorized robot.

I introduce to you, the Exoskeleton Crystal Harvester.

The next iteration will have drive motors and Bluetooth communication.

Are you still there.

I found a portal turret model on Google sketchup warehouse:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=79e8c33cb58058acd01371e29b8b3832&prevstart=12

I adapted it to make it printable & ship-able.

There is no way for me to contact the original author about authorization.. and the terms are seemingly ambiguous for Google Warehouse, so I'm not sure if I got the license right.

If you don't have a printer yet, or don't feel like printing it, we'll ship you one through our etsy:
etsy.com/listing/90368229/3d-printed-portal-turret

Makers out there, you're welcome to do the same!

An arduino-controled remote control car.

FOBO is an autonomous, statically balanced walking robot. Yes, this one actually walks under its own power! It is the fourth prototype from Project Biped (http://www.projectbiped.com).


A full overview (with source Blender files) can be found at the Project Biped FOBO website:

projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo

walking info:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/walking-cycle

more pictures of the actual robot:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/photos

FOBO avoiding obstacles:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/navigation

Controlling FOBO with a Kinect:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/kinect

A few months ago, my school was getting ready for a theater run of "The Little Shop of Horrors" and needed a tripod that could mount a video camera and be controlled from back stage wirelessly via radio. The whole idea behind the thing was that at the end of the play, when the plant achieved sentience, a camera, hidden inside of the huge plant, would look around at the audience and pick-out one member of the audience to devour.

I was most dismayed to find out that junior year of high school is not the most forgiving time to be trying to bang-out a completed, complicated, reliable device involving software, electronic and mechanical hardware as a one-man development team. A student needs more than 4 hours of sleep every night to be able to at least attempt to hold an intelligent conversation once a day for the duration of the school week.

I did not manage to finish the actual mechanical part of the assembly in time for the run (it's missing the all-important camera mount) but managed to finish all of the gears, mounts, wiring, soldering, OpenScad and Arduino/XBee coding necessary to get the thing moving via remote with stepper acceleration, control smoothing and a wicked-fast 20ms communication delay (by comparison, most first-person shooters operate with a 80-200ms latency). So 1,199 finished lines of code later, I have to admit it's still a work in progress (at least the mechanical camera mounts are) but I'm hoping, at the very least, the XBee and Arduino code involved in the controller and receiver sketches might help out anybody who needs to have super-fast, reliable wireless data communication with error checking and ACK packets using an XBee in API mode.

I'll update this Thingiverse posting with a video of the whole contraption moving under its own power sometime later today once I've had a chance to trim and upload the video.

The latest current source files for the Arduino and XBee powered electronics and the parametric gears can be found at their respective Github repositories here: (for the Arduino code)
github.com/xtremd/XbeeRemoteCameraRig
and here: (for the OpenScad code)
github.com/xtremd/Parametric-Openscad-Tripod-Mount

If anyone has any questions about my code or my tripod, just drop me a quick comment below and I'm sure a bunch of people (including me) will be able to help you out.

-XtremD

A toy robot action figure designed by a Boy Scout and intended for only good deeds.

UPDATE: Files 1 & 2 have been revised for cleaner meshes.

A solid worker droid. Limited intelligence and will almost never organize a robot uprising/kill all humans campaign!

Details classified. If encountered in the wild, do not approach.

A common pest in the lab these days.

Printable gripper for the HOAP-3

First published here:
jamesrpatrick.com/2012/01/lm6uu-bearing-holder-upgrade.html

This upgrade is a drop-in replacement for the stock eMAKER bearing holders. Mine failed under regular use and I was prompted to design something better. Instead of wood screws, these use small zip-ties and attach to an eMAKER Huxley without permanent modification to the machine.

Advantages of my upgrade:
-part count remains the same or is reduced
-easier installation
-won't fail under regular use
-uses less printing material
-no overhangs; easier to print

A figurine resembling an alien, an astronaut or a diver in an atmospheric diving suit :-) To be equiped with a blinking LED in the head or on its back. Usefull to guide your way in the dark without having to switch on the lights.

To be honest, it is not finished, more a proof of concept. Following Bre's manefesto, brepettis.com/blog/2009/3/3/the-cult-of-done-manifesto.html I publish it anyway.

I've been looking forward to modelling these for a while. They were introduced in the 5th season of doctor who.

This project used a Next Engine Laser scanner and was undertaken in association with the Pittsburgh Supercomputing Center and the Center for Parabiotics Research.

Modify these files for example create a void space for an embedded sensor or attachment points for ligaments and tendons. Place a channel down the center for wiring or even lighting.

See blue image for example of modified file. Tip recess for sensor with attachement points for ligament and muscle wires.

I sketched this out in SketchUp today and thought I would share. I took my influences from Sal Buscema, Michael Golden and Butch Guice on the direction of the render as well as the original toy designed by Bing McCoy.

This part is used to mount accessories or additions to the scoutbot(http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13042).

One blank robot -- Designs for a simple 80's style robot. Currently setup to cut with a band saw and drill press - but easily changed in Inkscape.

Parts -
- Plywood body
- 5 servo motors (2 are continuous)
- Arduino 1
- Batteries
- A little servo board

Thanks for looking!!

My first Robotic Hand (version 2.0) was designed with no 3d printer in mind. Version 2.0 had many shortfalls and difficulties. Since then, I've gotten a TOM and have learned how to design with its limitations and benefits in mind. I present to the 'verse Robotic Hand Version 3.0. Ver 3 requires less non-printable hardware, it requires less plastic to print, less printing time, less post-print work (very little sanding), and far less pull force is required to manipulate.

Version 3.0 Video of the Robot Hand in action:
youtu.be/7AlyGPnU6U0

Version 3.0 Flickr Set:
flic.kr/s/aHsjxvAHJg

Version 2.0 for reference:
thingiverse.com/thing:2408

This coupling has been designed using OOML ( iearobotics.com/oomlwiki/doku.php ). When attaching the Dynamixel and the Hokuyo, you can easily convert a 2D range finder into a 3D one.

Here is a small video (in spanish): youtube.com/watch?v=2eFtwoCO7ZE

Another video of a very simillar design (printed with a commercial 3Dprinter) can be found here: youtube.com/watch?v=n1OJ9bcBAIg

The code to control the devices can be found in www.mrgroup.es but it is not so clear. I will update it soon. It will probably be easier to contact me if you need the code.

3 files are attached: a cpp (OOML code), a scad (generated by the OOML code) and a stl (to print).

The modification is just to attach the case to the arduino by bolts

This was originally made for a laser cutter, so the parts were understandably pretty 2D. Then someone made it for a 3D printer, but it was still pretty 2D.
I added a little 3D to the upper body.
I also added some clearance so the parts would go together easier. Mine holds together, but you may need some glue.
The zip file has the Solidworks files in it.

A 'placeholder' is a term given in the 3D film and game industry for a temporary model used to represent a final character or item before that item is finished.
This is a placeholder of a 50g servo that I use when I am layout out the components for a robot or radio control project in 3D CAD. I have tried to make it as close as possible to the specimen servo (futaba) as necessary.

A solid 3D representation of a common 50g servo used in many hobby projects. Great for CAD assemblies for robot or RC car projects.

I also have some issues printing Obijuan's REPY head, so as the design had some spare space, I added extra thickness to one 'ear' of the module, and now it is safer to print it.

This is a buffer or suspension system by spring for a robot or toy cars. The principle is easy, two cylinders, one inside another that allow a relative movement within it, and we add a spring to recover the position when load is not applied.

The small hole in the inner cylinder is to avoid that both cylinders leave the right position if you take the robot or the toy.