A co-worker has a Traxxas JATO 3.3 radio controlled race car. He broke one of the struts and has ideas to make a custom setup. I worked with him for about an hour to sketch this up. It hasn't been printed yet but looks promising.

Notice the "JC" for his initials built into the structure. 3D Printing for the win!

There is a support peg included to hold the ball joint up. I suggested just using a bolt through a real ball joint, but the customer insisted we try it. Clip the support off and round off as needed.

I recently built the Ninja CNC kit from CNCSNAP.com. They include some pretty good harware but I wanted my machine to be able to cut heavier material. So i began making upgrades to the machine. I replaced the laser cut motor mounts with HEAVY DUTY 3D printed ones that are probably a little "over" built. But stronger is better right? I also designed a very robust tool holder that fits the motor they supply with the kit. I love this tool holder, it works great. Note: you will need to drill a hole in the end of the clamp to bolt it together. I recommend a small diameter machine screw. Next I stiffened up the guide rods with a set of support claps on each rod. I made them slightly under sized so you will need to run a 1/4" drill through them. My "Y" axis coupler broke so I replaced it with thing 7059. I can't find the corner bracket file I used to stiffen up the frame but I'll post it when I do. I also bolted together my "Z" carriage because it wanted to split with putting the tool holder one it.
If you have any questions or want me to make other upgrade/ design changes just let me know.
Thanks and I hope you put these files to good use.

youtube.com/watch?v=GYD6TE_If6U

Various OpenScad files of T-Slots. These are very similar to Misumi T-Slots. The OpenScad file allows you to pick your size and shape of you T-Slot. Examples are 2020, 2040, 4040, 2060, 2080. You may have trouble with the HUGE 2080. The 2060 x 100 took 9 hours to print on a TOM!

The Nuts portion is a work in progress so don't expect too much.

130mm RC PLA printed Buldozer
with servo motor and gears
laptop batteries
7805 voltage regulator
"all functions" each thread and the arm.

LED light Guide

This will fit on a standard LED.

Any image can be added to the light guide and the image will light up when the LED is ON.

Similar to a small edge lit sign.

FOBO is an autonomous, statically balanced walking robot. Yes, this one actually walks under its own power! It is the fourth prototype from Project Biped (http://www.projectbiped.com).


A full overview (with source Blender files) can be found at the Project Biped FOBO website:

projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo

walking info:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/walking-cycle

more pictures of the actual robot:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/photos

FOBO avoiding obstacles:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/navigation

Controlling FOBO with a Kinect:
projectbiped.com/prototypes/fobo/kinect

A few months ago, my school was getting ready for a theater run of "The Little Shop of Horrors" and needed a tripod that could mount a video camera and be controlled from back stage wirelessly via radio. The whole idea behind the thing was that at the end of the play, when the plant achieved sentience, a camera, hidden inside of the huge plant, would look around at the audience and pick-out one member of the audience to devour.

I was most dismayed to find out that junior year of high school is not the most forgiving time to be trying to bang-out a completed, complicated, reliable device involving software, electronic and mechanical hardware as a one-man development team. A student needs more than 4 hours of sleep every night to be able to at least attempt to hold an intelligent conversation once a day for the duration of the school week.

I did not manage to finish the actual mechanical part of the assembly in time for the run (it's missing the all-important camera mount) but managed to finish all of the gears, mounts, wiring, soldering, OpenScad and Arduino/XBee coding necessary to get the thing moving via remote with stepper acceleration, control smoothing and a wicked-fast 20ms communication delay (by comparison, most first-person shooters operate with a 80-200ms latency). So 1,199 finished lines of code later, I have to admit it's still a work in progress (at least the mechanical camera mounts are) but I'm hoping, at the very least, the XBee and Arduino code involved in the controller and receiver sketches might help out anybody who needs to have super-fast, reliable wireless data communication with error checking and ACK packets using an XBee in API mode.

I'll update this Thingiverse posting with a video of the whole contraption moving under its own power sometime later today once I've had a chance to trim and upload the video.

The latest current source files for the Arduino and XBee powered electronics and the parametric gears can be found at their respective Github repositories here: (for the Arduino code)
github.com/xtremd/XbeeRemoteCameraRig
and here: (for the OpenScad code)
github.com/xtremd/Parametric-Openscad-Tripod-Mount

If anyone has any questions about my code or my tripod, just drop me a quick comment below and I'm sure a bunch of people (including me) will be able to help you out.

-XtremD

I recently built the Ninja CNC kit from CNCSNAP.com. They recommend you use a fan to cool the board but they don't include a fan or an enclosure. So it bought a "thunderblade" 80mm blue led fan from radio shack and designed this enclosure for the board. I didn't feel like designing fastener attachments for the top-base connections so I just heat welded them together.
Feel free to modify the design to use a different fan if you like.
Check out my other Upgrades for this kit.
thingiverse.com/thing:16749

A mini digger executive toy. 4 moveable joints, rotating base, 2 arm joints and bucket control from the 2 levers at the back.

These are available as kits through my website.
msraynsford.blogspot.com/2012/01/mini-digger.html

Jimmy Bot is a Modular Lasercut Arduino Robot Platform designed to make prototyping robot designs quick easy and pain free!

It utilises Jimmy Rig D-Fasteners to hold together laser cut 6mm acrylic (or wood) pieces. D-Fasteners let you assemble your robot straight out of the laser cutter and are a joy to use, they won't crack the acrylic or pull out sideways like conventional T-slots. You can buy them here: thebeehive.net.au/products/jimmy-rigs.

This design is easily customised to create custom mounting plates for all manner of sensors and electromechanical components.

A solid worker droid. Limited intelligence and will almost never organize a robot uprising/kill all humans campaign!

Details classified. If encountered in the wild, do not approach.

A common pest in the lab these days.

Printable gripper for the HOAP-3

This is my own design quadcopter; 4x4 central station with 4 sections, expandable to fit more sensors, cameras, etc. Has no landing gear for the time being. Can be printed or CNC'd, although I have none of these tools. (Trolled... hehe) Makerbots/other desktop printers will not be able to make this.

Well... looks like Thingiverse doesn't like rendering my files. Oh well worked in Solidworks 2011.

And also, Solidworks Assemblies translate into a bunch of parts in STL, so I guess you'll just have to wing it if you want to put it together. Shouldn't be hard, though. Tell me if I'm missing anything.

EDIT wow those are some UGLY stl renders.

Hello everyone, first of all I want to introduce myself. My name is Raúl Pérula - raules.wikispaces.com/Inicio - and I am student of Master in Robotic and Automation, University Carlos III of Madrid.

This project belongs to the development project of OOML - iearobotics.com/oomlwiki/doku.php -. OOML is simply a C++ empowered OpenSCAD. If you want more information enters OOML oficial website and inform yourself, sure you will be passionate the project and want to collaborate.

Using OOML I have made a library of objects to form structures with blocks. I have created different types of blocks to have considerable diversity. There from the simplest block, which is a simple piece consists of a cube with two linkers (a hole bottom and a top flange) to more complex blocks with different shapes such as L or T.

I have done a video showing how you can use this thing so useful. The pieces are not very accurate but I think when 3D printers improve and accuracy is not a problem can be made large structures.

This is the link:

youtu.be/adEJ_Kpa5xo?hd=1

This coupling has been designed using OOML ( iearobotics.com/oomlwiki/doku.php ). When attaching the Dynamixel and the Hokuyo, you can easily convert a 2D range finder into a 3D one.

Here is a small video (in spanish): youtube.com/watch?v=2eFtwoCO7ZE

Another video of a very simillar design (printed with a commercial 3Dprinter) can be found here: youtube.com/watch?v=n1OJ9bcBAIg

The code to control the devices can be found in www.mrgroup.es but it is not so clear. I will update it soon. It will probably be easier to contact me if you need the code.

3 files are attached: a cpp (OOML code), a scad (generated by the OOML code) and a stl (to print).

The modification is just to attach the case to the arduino by bolts

In this case, the SCAD code of the Scout printbot has been converted into OOML code ( iearobotics.com/oomlwiki/doku.php ). At the same time, the ScoutMega printbot derives from the MiniSkyBot ( thingiverse.com/thing:7989 ) by Obijuan ( thingiverse.com/obijuan ). The castor wheel in the rear part is the same as in the MiniSkyBot, but the OOML version ( thingiverse.com/thing:12198 ) by avalero ( thingiverse.com/avalero ) was employed.

Here is a small video (in spanish): youtube.com/watch?v=821ua42vHks

The main design is the same as the Scout printbot, but an additional front bumper has been included in order to mount on it a gripper. The gripper selected is a modification of the one posted in ( thingiverse.com/thing:2415 ).

The electronics consists on an Arduino Mega board and 3 Futaba S3003 servos (for both wheels and gripper).

In the attached files, all the source code is provided: SCAD files and STL. There is algo a C++ file in which it is the code of the chassis using the OOML.

Additional things:
To assemble everything, you will need at least:
- 11 M3x8mm screws.
- 4 M3x20mm screws.
- 14 M3 nuts.
- 2 O-ring: 50x3 mm.
- 1 O-ring 16x3 mm.

Realize that for the gripper I just used some plastic wire. You can do this as well but if you want to use screws (for a more robust coupling), you will need:

- 6 M3x6mm screws.
- 6 more M3 nuts.

TO DO:
- The gipper is too big according the size of the chassis. This make the printbot unstable sometimes.

- Change the design to make it easier to assemble.

- Improve the gripper anchorage. Right now it is very difficult to assemble.

I'm sorry about this issues. That is what happens when an electronic design mechanics :)

This was originally made for a laser cutter, so the parts were understandably pretty 2D. Then someone made it for a 3D printer, but it was still pretty 2D.
I added a little 3D to the upper body.
I also added some clearance so the parts would go together easier. Mine holds together, but you may need some glue.
The zip file has the Solidworks files in it.

I also have some issues printing Obijuan's REPY head, so as the design had some spare space, I added extra thickness to one 'ear' of the module, and now it is safer to print it.

Kinda, sorta a derivative. I couldn't get the other one to print right, so I redesigned similar to a commercial design.
The links are 1 inch between pins.
See the video for assembly and fit.
Designed for 3D printers, but would be useful on other CNC machines.
youtube.com/watch?v=1FNSJK4WnnM

This is a buffer or suspension system by spring for a robot or toy cars. The principle is easy, two cylinders, one inside another that allow a relative movement within it, and we add a spring to recover the position when load is not applied.

The small hole in the inner cylinder is to avoid that both cylinders leave the right position if you take the robot or the toy.

3D model of a household robot modeled in 3ds max for a magazine article illustration about electronics for the home of the future. You can see the full illustration on my web site: andylackow.com. Based on the iRobi made by the Korean company, Yujin Robotics. Here's a quote about the little guy, "The iRobi is cute house and kid sitter robot. It can be remotely controlled via the web and has a surveillance camera. It can also tutor kids with his large integrated display. The eyes and mouth of the iRobi can show different moods."

Sounds like some syntax got a little lost in the translation.

This is a model I did for an illustration I that I created called "Opticon" (©2011 Andy Lackow) that you can see on my web site: andylackow.com (only I think I changed out the eye for an earth globe). It is a somewhat detailed model that has highly detailed textures. The STL version I uploaded obviously has no textures. It's kind of a steam-punk combination of human anatomy and machine. I hope to do more complex models and illustrations in this theme some day. In the meantime I'm love to see this thing brought to life on someone's 3D printer!

If you have a robot and you want a support for sensors, maybe you have to design a support for each sensor and each position. With this, you don't need. The 3 supports that I added are:

- For Infrared sensors (Rectangular with 2 holes for bolts)
- For ultrasound sensors (Circular with 2 holes for bolts)
- For LEDs (Circula, only a hole for it)

To put in your desired position, the upper part of the support have holes (you can add more o remove holes), to introduce a bolt with tip or pushpin

***UPDATE 1/12/2012***
Added .PK2 and .STL for 4mm stepper shafts


***EDIT** Rev2, I made some adjustments to the columns and verified that the .PK2 file works in Creo again. I printed a new one and it looks better than the first one I uploaded. Let me know what you think. Use EricCoupler2 for the newer version.. I also found Thing# 12190, which is really similar, he made his first so I've listed this as a derivative though I created mine separately before I saw his.


This coupler came from my seeing and experiencing issues with other couplers. I wanted a Z coupler that was round and would not snag any loose wires. I wanted one that I would not have to worry about slippage, and that would be beefy. After a little experimentation, I decided the captive nut idea was the best. This is my first posted Thing, so Comments are certainly welcome. I design objects with PTC Creo. It's awesome. Elements is Free.

This fits the MXL belts found in many junk flatbed scanners. The 5mm bore fits most NEMA 17 stepper motors. MXL belts can also be sourced from Mcmaster-Carr. mcmaster.com/#mxl-series-timing-belts/=f8ej07

These are the laser cutting plans for the chassis for my ArduRoller balance bot.

Specs:
Chassis: laser cut 2.7mm bamboo ply (Ponoko); various M2.5 machine screws from Amazon; Instamorph low-melt-point thermoplastic to fill in the gaps.
Brains: 1 x Arduino Uno
Motor driver: 1 x Sparkfun Ardumoto
Motors: Sparkfun 2 x 24:1 gearmotor
Wheels: 1 set Sparkfun 70mm -- repaired with Instamorph after they cracked around the axle
Gyro: 1 x ADXRS613 (Sparkfun breakout) mounted at the axis of rotation
Accelerometer: 1 x ADXL203CE (Sparkfun breakout) mounted at the axis of rotation
Batteries: 2 x 3.7V Li-poly 850MAh (Sparkfun)

I've shared the code and assets at github.com/fasaxc/ArduRoller.

Video is at flickr.com/photos/fasaxc/5944650602/

So I got into doing Renaissance acting this year and got to thinking, what would it be like if you had a real life dragon? Here is as far as I've gotten so far with that thought, the eventual plan is to make this dragon attonomous, but at the moment he is controlled with duel sliding joysticks that control the height and rotation of his head, how wide his wings are spread and the angle of the wings (I'll add in controls for the tail later). The joysticks will eventually be replaced with IR sensors and an accelerometer, but I'm still working on those baby steps.

The model does use a derivative of the dragon head: thingiverse.com/thing:1466

Any help with the programming would be greatly appreciated.