Mount for standard servos that with mounting holes on front, back, bottom and sides. Holes are spaced on 8mm grid so it is compatible with Lego parts.

An arduino-controled remote control car.

This is part of the tweet controlled ping pong ball launcher made for the BBC world service radio show "Click"

This is the 5th redesign on the device, as designs that included a hopper were prone to jamming.

A video of it in action: youtube.com/watch?v=iPG-ji3zt7A

ElectricLaboratory.com

A 'placeholder' is a term given in the 3D film and game industry for a temporary model used to represent a final character or item before that item is finished.
This is a placeholder of a 50g servo that I use when I am layout out the components for a robot or radio control project in 3D CAD. I have tried to make it as close as possible to the specimen servo (futaba) as necessary.

A solid 3D representation of a common 50g servo used in many hobby projects. Great for CAD assemblies for robot or RC car projects.

It was my son's idea to create a dinosaur skull that would sing jingle bells. This is the result of that project. The bottom jaw is controlled via a servo mounted in the base.

In this video you can see the skull in action singing jingle bells.
youtu.be/Z-ojvIRqI_Q

Undubbed with circuit board visible
youtube.com/watch?v=0hoYsfMroyg

The Skymega is an electronic board for programming printbots. It is open source hardware, designed with the open source tools Kicad (we have named this kind of hardware as open source squared). It is based on the ATmega microcontrollers, so it is Arduino compatible.

This board has been specifically designed for building modular robots or mini mobile robots. Currently we are using it at Universidad Carlos III de Madrid for the following printbots:

* Miniskybot: thingiverse.com/thing:7989
* Repy1 1.1 modules: thingiverse.com/thing:13442
* F-track: thingiverse.com/thing:13298
* Orugator: thingiverse.com/thing:8559

Features:
* Small in size
* Easy to build by the students
* ON/OFF switch
* Arduino compatible
* Connection up to 8 servos
* I2C bus
* 1 Test button
* 2 Test led

Authors
* Juan Gonzalez-Gomez (Obijuan)
* Andrés Prieto-Moreno
* Itziar Lima
* Ricardo Gomez

More information on this board (repository, images, instructions) can be found on this link (in Spanish): iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=SkyMega

The local RC airplane club that I belong to wanted a way to attach a bomb to an airplane and drop it on a target. We will use these as part of a compatition at our fun flys.

A turntable for your very own drink-dispensing robot, and a pedestal to put the scale and drinks on.

These are the physical parts for my iZac drinkbot project, details of which you can find here: blog.notdot.net/2011/11/Introducing-iZac-the-Android-Bartender

Here's everything you need to convert a standard 7" hamster ball into a radio controlled (or potentially autonomous) ball of fury. I've also included plans for a simple stand for the thing so it doesn't roll away when not in use.

Video of the mechanics in operation:
youtu.be/-h-q-IdnQ3M

Videos of people driving them:
youtu.be/nPqL2h55Tgc
youtu.be/6X15eBpUSGU

I needed a robot arm to try out a couple of the projects in a book I'm editing, Making Things See by Greg Borenstein: urbanhonking.com/ideasfordozens/2011/10/08/making-things-see-available-for-early-release. You can see a video of Greg's project here: vimeo.com/31698679

I knew I wasn't going to be happy with popsicle sticks, so I combined two things to make robot arms that can have servos at one end:

thingiverse.com/thing:6714
and
thingiverse.com/thing:8131

Mars Exploration Rover:

Wheel with integrated engine and a servo.

Motor-Holder ready to this motor:
todoelectronica.com/robotica-motor-14200-p-9626.html

and this servo:
lowpricerc.com/product_info.php?products_id=1560

In progress.

This is a prototype animatronic tail, OpenScan designed 3D printed on a 3D printer and controlled by Arduino.

This is a small test:
youtube.com/watch?v=d1k9p1P4s8I

I attached in a text document the code that use to control the servo with arduino.

Uses the number of vertebrae that want, i use 10 plus the final. I put a rubber cord in the side holes to keep the tail as, in the other holes, i put a normal string attached to the wheel. And so that the rope does not slip from the wheel put some small aluminum rings.

I hope you like ;)

I recently built this servo mount, for mounting a standard servo into a RC plane wing.

This is a fully printable mobile robot I designed and built last year. However, it wasn't very useful until Julián Marín Mato added some electronics and wrote some code to control it with a gamepad. Now that we can say it's finally 100% functional, we'd love you to play around with one too!

To see it in action, check out this video: youtube.com/watch?v=54MXA22bOmQ

There are, of course, things to be improved: using more powerful servos, strengthening some parts, adding wireless comms, etc. All that will come in the (near?) future.

Scout is a printable tribot designed for teaching the Boy Scout robotics merit badge. scouting.org/scoutsource/BoyScouts/AdvancementandAwards/MeritBadges/mb-ROBO.aspx

I've marked this as a derivative of MiniSkyBot because I was inspired by it and because Scout still uses the wheels from that project.

The frame itself is a complete redesign with similar but different goals.

Goals:
Provide a kit that meets the merit badge requirements with parts totaling < $50 USD.

-Minimum printed parts
-Minimum vitamins
-Accommodate an arduino diecimila or nano.
-use a 9V battery.
-Flexible enough to allow boys to improve and extend the design.

The frame is a single printed piece. The tabs for holding the servo motors can be tapped with a 4mm tap to avoid the need for nuts.

The top holes can be tapped with a 3mm tap to screw on an arduino without nuts.

The bracket will hold a 9v battery with just friction. The rear battery bracket has a friction fit cup for a ball bearing caster.

Large holes in the bracket minimize the amount of plastic needed and allow wires to be routed up to the arduino.

Cost
Since affordability was a major consideration, here's a run down of the final project cost.

The plastic cost is just the cost of a roll divided by the number of kits we built. There was lots of plastic left over and the boys are using it to design improvements.

Frame & Wheels $7.86 (plastic from Makerbot)
Tires (2) $2.36 (Hardware store o-rings)
4mm bolts (4) $0.84
wheels screws (4) $0.96
Servos futaba (2) $8.38 (purchased new in bulk on ebay)
Arduino Nano $18.99 (purchased new on ebay)
Ultrasonic $3.90 (purchased new on ebay)
9v connector $0.81 (Radio Shack)
DC power plug $1.86 (Radio Shack)
9V battery $1.25
Total: $47.21

I call this thing the N_struder. With this revision being an N = 2struder. The original design intent was to hack thingiverse.com/jag awesome thingiverse.com/thing:7113 for use with my cupcake, but after seeing Makerbot's MK7 I ended up taking it to a whole new level.

Design Concepts:
Cooling Fan: I mostly wanted to use parts and stock I have laying around my shop. The idea with the location of the heatsink is to cool the stepper motor (while still using a MK3 geared DC motor I noticed after long builds the filament would strip). I fixed this with a vacuum pump blowing air right on the hobbed drive, keeping the motor cool to the touch (a terrible solution), but it worked.

With this location it also allows for any cooling fan to be attached. I think it is important to have a large heatsink, like a CPU fan when using multiple extruder heads. I imagine 100W+ possibly which is in the range for a CPU fan (plus they are often found FREE!)

Filament Drive/ Material Change:
The idea here is to only use (1) stepper motor and motor driver because I am too cheap :). But really I think this method may prove useful.
Basically there will be a servo that engages/ disengages each filament through linkages (not in design yet). Then driving the stepper CW for one, then CCW for the latter. When disengaged the filament is pulled away from hobbed drive.
I have found using a 180 degree servo you get a few extra degrees allowing the mechanism to lock (like locking your knee or elbow), enabling the need for no power, with only the small exception of material change.

Added Benefits:
This was designed with extruder head spacing of only 12mm (more build area).
Less cost and more simple. no need for two sets of motors, drivers, housings, ect...
Use of 1.75mm stock
Expandable to many heads (see N = 4struder concept).

Well that was a mouthfull. But I have a question for the thingiverse hivemind. Is there an interest in implementing something like this?
I have no programming knowledge so it's useless to me without help.
I will continue designing the servo driven version if anyone thinks it's a good idea.
Also, other suggestions would be helpful.

Small project that I have had worked on.

Trying to use a small 9g servo to open and close the blinds.

If you watch the video you can see it has potential, and needs a few changes.

youtube.com/watch?v=CyzVa-s3Zjw

This is a pinch valve for 6mm silicon tubing, made from laser-cut 3mm acrylic, stacked and held together with machine screws. It's ideal for controlling the flow of air, water, fruit juice, hard liquor, or whatever you desire. It's ideal for controlling the flow of stuff you don't want to risk contaminating with a regular valve, and as a result it's intrinsically food-safe.

Power and control is provided by a lightweight '9g' hobby servo; the silicon tubing is simply a push-fit into the top of the valve arrangement.

The photos and video are of an earlier prototype; the uploaded design is slightly refined, but functionally identical.

You can see it in action here: youtube.com/watch?v=4raXnoKUtow

This started out as a project to learn modeling in FreeCAD. I've attached the FreeCAD project file as well as the .stl models.

I'm not sure what I'll do with it, but it seems like it would work nicely in some kind of Halloween costume.

The main bracket works like a clip-on spray-paint trigger -- In fact, the bracket should fit other kinds of rattle cans as well.

The servo bracket was modeled to fit a hobby servo I had lying around. I've found that servos have a variety of different mounting screw patterns so you might have to modify this for whatever servo you're using.

A bent bit of paperclip works to connect the servo horn to the end of the trigger.

Here's a short clip of it firing: youtube.com/watch?v=fPpnoXX5sNc

This is a 100x150x68cm box made with openSCAD.

EDIT 09/30/2011 : I've added the .scad files in the .rar. The names are in French so I hope it's clear enough. I've made the shoulder and the arm after i've fixed my box size, therefore if you wish edit parameters everything might not realign correctly.

EDIT 10/09/2011 : I've cut the bottom part and the shoulder in half to be printed on a Makerbot.

TL;DR - A Pan / Tilt servo mount for the Multiplex EasyStar foamy.

mpx-easystar.de/index.php?id=2&L=1

The EasyStar is a great plane for First Person video flying, it's..

cheap
easy to assemble
easy to hand launch
very forgiving to fly
nearly unbreakable
very long dwell time with LiIon batteries and a brushless upgrade
able to carry a lot of weight


So here's a basic Pan/Tilt servo mount to velcro your camera of choice onto. I've sized the mounting cutouts for the cheap and incredibly common "Mystery" 9g transparent blue servos, and they work well. These are sold commercially for about $50, and my version costs me about .20c in MDF to cut..

I'm not proud of the design of this. It's rather ugly. But I thought I'd still upload it to see if it could inspire someone else to make a nicer version. I hope maybe someone find the simplicity of it quite cute.

It's a common design of a 4 servo biped walker. It can be controlled with an RF remote, an Arduino, an MSP430 Launchpad or similar. It walks, dances... well moves around.

I've posted a video here:

lars.roland.bz/2011/09/08/3d-printed-simple-biped-with-4-servos/

I haven't included an upper body yet. I'm just using a Lego plate on the video, but I'm planning to build a proper body for it. I thought I might add some arms and some mini-servos to control those also...

This version has the following changes:-

Made the .scad file more modular and improved the parameterisation
* Added a hole and various slots for more mounting options
* Rounded the corners and made the default size thinner to reduce printing costs
* Added braces for extra strength
* Added hooks to suspend the cable that connects to the servo

NOTE
I haven't been able to get this to print on our Makerbot yet

This is a bracket for holding a small servo (http://www.dealextreme.com/p/9g-mini-servo-with-gears-and-parts-2-1kg-torque-20087) underneath a table.

The .scad file is mostly parameterised, but the way it's been done is not ideal.

This servo holder is made to hold HXT500 type servos (5 gram micro servo in any kind of R/C vehicle or other machine that needs servos. I designed it to hide the servos evenly in the wings of my R/C airplanes (used as aileron or flap servos on my scratchbuilt foamies).

There is a "left" and a "right" version (mirrored) - use whatever fits your needs best. For mirrored applications (such as in R/C plane wings) you might want to use both versions.

The showed holders are printed in silver coloured PLA plastic.
Weight of each holder (in PLA silver) is about 3 grams.

The servo can be found here:
hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=663&aff=141728

EDIT 1:
The Turnigy Micro Servo TG-1600A has similar dimensions and also works flawlessly with this servo holder:
hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=7473&aff=141728

This is a mounting bracket that I designed for mounting hobby servos for a robot I am working on.

Why print a flat wheel when you can emboss a drawing to the surface?

This is the parameterized version of the servo wheel. The wheel diameter, height and o-rings parameters can be defined by the user. These are the type of wheels we are using for our printable robot projects. For example, the Miniskybot robot ( thingiverse.com/thing:7989 )

Currently the target servo is Futaba 3003.

This simple board hosts the Skymega (http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=SkyMega&oldid=11720) PCB and a servo tight together. I'm going to use it in my research work about Sonar SLAM (Simultaneous Localization and Mapping) for the MiniSkybot (http://www.iearobotics.com/wiki/index.php?title=Mini-Skybot) robot.

In the post mortem of my wife's PolyBot assembly, one of the things she wanted was a hole to put a screw through the servo mount to hold it to the platform.

This thing is the exact same as the previous version, with the addition of an M3 sized mounting hole, and an indent for the matchich hex nut on the 'bottom' side of it.

I considered having more holes for more holding goodness, but I'm still sticking with the minimal fasteners design principle.