There's a bit of Hipster Geek in all of us and these slot together glasses will satisfy both sides of your personality!

We've created these as a reward for supporters of our crowdfunding campaign at projectpowerup.com/projects/26
We're creating a design-your-own 3D printed eyewear interface.

We'll be cutting them from mahogany (from managed forests of course!) as a reward for our supporters. But we think some Citizens of Thingiverse won't be able to wait and will just have to make their own!

Dino-girl's flatpack spider milled from aluminum.

Shiny arachnid go!

I did not make this Thing. I give all credit to langfordw. you can fin the original thing at his page, or thingiverse.com/thing:286

It is a great toy and gift for people who love elephants!

I did not make this thing! i have just come across it as had to make and decided to share it since it is not a "thing" on Thingiverse! Very serprising.

A 3-Dimentional mammouth that consists of many different seperate slide-in pieces. Can be a toy or even a gift "just because". I suggest a better material that isnt so sore on the eye while useing cardboard.

it is a two-piece cut that when put together holds any size necklace, very capable of holding other things too...Very great present when cut out in good material such as acrylic.

I found this file a while ago and started to see another variation of someone elses file so i decided to share this one! (Most likely the same file)

This thing is a mouse trap car made by a laser cutter, the files below (odg, cst) are open office and roland cut studio files, each type has the same cuts needed to make the car. This car is not specifically made for speed or distance but more of a solid base for a mouse trap of any kind.

ALSO! the way i was able to fit the pencils into the CD was the adapter made by MJCbull, thingiverse.com/thing:8300

The Simple Ipad Stand is err an Ipad stand. It's not rocket science but it does the job very well and I use mine all the time. It allows for vertical or horizontal use and can also be used as a rest to type.

It also can be used as a picture frame holder.

More info at simpleipadstand.com/

This is a script for making boxes. Actually, you can use it to make any box you want (or your printer can print)! Read the .scad file for info on what variables should be changed for size.

The stl is included as an example.

x

This is a mockup of a mount for a phone like gadget, parametrized and made with openscad. It is supposed to be attachable to the wristmount (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1748).

The only file for now is a test export with dimensions meant to fit an iphone. Not really printable as is without support material, and likely not very functional, though there is a chance it could be made to work with an actual iphone :)

I have no acces to a 3D-printer atm., so can't test.

Update: Uploaded an export that uses the great rounded.scad script: thingiverse.com/thing:1790

Update: Decided to just upload the unreleased version of the openscad script. Will hopefully improve it once I get the Helsinki Hacklab mendel running.

This is my first experiment with openscad and my first thing in thingiverse! Just uploaded a test export. It should definitely be printable, but not very useful without any attachments :) Suggestions regarding the dimensions to standardize on for the attachment slot are welcome. I will add the option to put opposing magnets as a locking mechanism.

Update: Put up a prettier export, and a pic with the new color theme available in OpenScad.

Update: The .scad file is up! I tried to comment the code to be as useful as possible. Ask if you don't understand something, or if you disagree with some design decisions.

Update: Put up an export with better dimensions for the interface slot.

Update: Corrected the scale, it was off by a factor of 2. Added the magnet slot. Now you can import the slot shape from the file to add it to your mount or mountable.

A printable upgrade to allow increasing the tension on the X axis belt / pulley by turning a screw. Unlike the Y axis tensioner, ( thingiverse.com/thing:1618 ) the X axis tensioner only requires a single piece. The Sketchup file is included if you want to modify.

Make sure your X pulley is assembled as shown to the left and is adjusted to the correct height so that the X belt is totally level all the way through ( wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-xy-stage-installation#toc3 ). The tensioner may work if you have your pulley assembled differently, but you'll have to make sure the pulley doesn't rub against the tensioner.

Special thanks to SSD ( thingiverse.com/ssd ) for testing and feedback. Version 3 has a slight change suggested by SSD which may help some people.

If you're trying this for the first time, use Version 2.

Getting the Y axis belt tight enough can be a real pain. That's why I've designed this printable upgrade to allow increasing the tension on the Y axis belt / pulley by turning a screw.

You can find my X axis belt tensioner here thingiverse.com/thing:1673

V1 - Based upon a single captive nut.
V2 - Fixing an alignment issue.
V3 - First printable version. The smaller piece that holds the captive nut was too long.

2010-01-23
V6 - Same concept, but a different design using two captive nuts on each side of the Y axis pulley. My test print is suffering from some X stage problem, so the prints aren't coming out right yet. However, I wanted to post this in case I could get feedback from others.
2010-01-25
V7 - Same concept with a few improvements.

I created the screenshot from Unrepentantgeek\'s Sketchup version of the Cupcake CNC. thingiverse.com/thing:1449

Because I'm considering several different clippable things for belts, I figured a basic, modular part for clipping things was in order.

This clip has a slot at the top which is continuous through its length, in addition to a deep cutout for the belt itself. This should make it easy to design things that slot into this gap for clip-on functionality. Click the thumbnail to the left for a better view with the default dimensions (assuming the export plugin worked correctly)

* Update: I've added a correctly-sized "plug" to the sketchup file and as an .stl. It should fit quite nicely, and could either be printed independently of another item and glued/welded on, or attached to a model before printing.

A simple sphere with 5 planes in 2 directions... Hand made in illustrator.

Can anyone recommend me a tool (commercial or free, but I prefer free :-) that will allow me to make planar cuts through organic shapes to be able to build them via laser cutter? For instance plug-ins for Blender or likewise. And pardon me if it already exists in Blender, I've only just started kicking around in it...

Just thinking, there has to be an easier way than keeping track of 3 planes in my head and hand drawing everything in Illustrator?

My mom needed a laptop stand so I decided to make this for her Birthday tomorrow.

I really like how it came out and I love the interaction of the wave and the wood grain.

My process went something like this:
My mom's always liked Japanese prints (she grew up in Japan) and so I knew I wanted to do a Hokusai wave.

I found a creative commons image (http://nickpoint.files.wordpress.com/2008/12/the_great_wave_off_kanagawa.jpg) and imported it into Gimp. I adjusted the levels and threshold-ed it to make it just black and white. From there I played with it a bit in Inkscape using the trace bitmap tool. Eventually I ended up with what you see there.

This is an acrylic laser business card that assembles into a functional set of acrylic metric/imperial callipers, with a vernier scale accurate down to 1/20th of a mm***. Due to the size constraints of the business cards, I didn't have much room left for instructions on the card. I plan on making some screened envelopes with a 3d blowapart rendering of the unit assembly.

This file still needs some polish, but is fully functional. I was hoping to work on it a little longer before releasing it, but came across thingiverse.com/thing:782 the other day, and figured it was about time to stop trolling and register :)

Please excuse the temporary cameraphone snaps, the good camera is at a cottage for a few more days :)

----------------
UPDATE

Caliper.006 - cut files set to work with a VLS 3.60 60W

Caliper.007 - cut files adjusted to slightly looser on the friction fit.






*** depends on the accuracy of your laser cutter ;)

This is a clip mount for 35 mm DIN rail.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DIN_rail

I had a relay for a radio that was already DIN rail and I needed to mount some plugs and cables.

flickr.com/photos/zignig/sets/72157621190394069/

So I fired up blender and Modeled a DIN clip.

TIP:

Getting the sizing just right on a reprap is a bit tricky , so I printed out thin ones ( ~= 5 layers ) to get the size just so.

I used this for a ham radio that I have mounted in my car.

:)

zignig

We at techshopdurham.com/ laser these in batches to place pamphlets in.

no fasteners! well nested! optimistic design!

designed for 1/8" materials- scale it to whatever you want, though.

Another derivative of the Thingiverse flatpack monkey. This messenger of the gods wields an authentic cross, sporty wings, halo and bible.

Another derivative of the Thingiverse monkeybot. This one is called Beelzabot! Changes include upside down black heart just like your first wife's. Pitchfork and flyswatter because I assume hell has hella flies. Pointy tail, Horns and morningwood.

This is a derivative of the monkeybot on thingiverse. I made numerous edits to achieve a snap fit so glue would not be required. I added small sacrificial bumps to the "fit" pieces so the fit would be tight. I changed the tail, head and other pieces. I made the cat head version first and as you can see his minions came to his defense. I made a version with fork and spoon for a Paella party we threw this weekend and everyone put together their own forkbot while under the influence of Sangria.

This variant of the Hexagonal Column does away with the FlatRoll concept and goes for interlocking tabs instead. No need for a flexible substrate, six of these segments should lock together to form a box.

The 45 degree overhang rule is met, and the individual parts are much bigger (no need to share the printing volume with the other five) with finer details, so this should print out fine.

EDIT: Added an anaglyph picture, bring out your red/blue glasses!

This is a half-height bookshelf made from 5 pieces of 3/4" plywood cut from a 4x4' blank according to the plan below. This prototype was made from Finnish plywood, stained with Minwax "Island Water," and treated with boiled linseed oil.

he parts have been designed to minimize wastage in the parts blank while maximizing available shelf space. The puzzle shelves unit can stand up against a wall to provide a "fourth shelf" below the other three, or it can be turned over and stand on its own.

Additionally, the prototype includes a new experimental locking halved joint which uses a foam rubber ball to keep the joined members together. The plan could easily be modified to use conventional halved joints.

Instead of flat slot-ends, the slots in the puzzle shelves unit are terminated with hole-saw cuts, giving the finished slot a kind of "keyhole" shape. When two slotted members are halved together, a spherical void is formed by the perpendicular overlap of the round cuts. A foam rubber ball, in this case a practice golf ball from the sporting goods store, is popped into this spherical recess from an oblique angle, locking the two members together and cushioning their motion against one another.

What could be more awesome than a cute little elephant companion to keep you and your desk company?

A rubber Band Powered car! Woo Woo!

cradle for watching movies and other sideways goodies on your axim.

designed for X51v but can work for other things

This is a notch width test pattern, with notches cut into both sides from 0.100" to 0.150" wide in 0.01" steps. The idea, obviously, is to straddle the 1/8" or 0.125" nominal thickness of the material.

Since 0.01" should be on the same order of magnitude as the kerf (material lost to the laser's cut), I didn't think we needed more precision.

I took Fountain's Birdhouse, and added two suction cup holes to the back.

Now you can attach it to your window. :-)

Took all of five minutes using the existing suction cup hole Thing ( thingiverse.com/thing:207 ) and Fountain's original design, and most of that was making sure the scales were correct.

Further refinements might include adding a little tab sticking out the back (from the floor piece) to keep the house level once the suction cups are attached to a vertical surface.