First of all: All merits and credits and rights and everything else (including ownership of the files) goes to original authors - and reprap community.

Second of all: Versions here are the original files, only tweaked for toner transfer purposes.

These are some files for DIY pcbs with Toner Transfer, for Mendel.
Images for printing top bottom and silk are all 600 dpi.

More info on reprap.org/wiki/DIY_PCBs_double_sided_toner_transfer

* image file for ATX / ATX2 voltages takeout + UM232R footprint boards:
A4 file ready for transfer, 600 dpi. For ATX supply, the board allows access to all voltages without any modifications to the supply. The UM232R i made because it looks better on a proper board.

* stepper motor driver v3.0 for toner transfer +A4 layout: i never got time around to test this because i jumped to vers 3.3, but should work; nonetheless, use at your own risk

* stepper motor driver v3.3 for toner transfer: changed smd from 0805 to 1206; increased pcb size and spacings accordingly; some provisions(”just in case”): 7805 can be fitted with a small to radiator (totally not needed but i like the overkill) and can be moved around abit if needed; smd versions electrolitic capacitors could be fitted (for smd connect the vias nearby with bottom layer); alternative jumpers instead of the dip switch; alternative 0.100” pins connectors for motor; 2 opposite diagonal holes for an A3977 radiator (overkill heatsink higly recommended), and some holes underneath A3977 that are just something like chip vent; can use pots with pitch of 5/5mm also (besides 5/2.5mm);
-the version named Makerbot: has 6 pins idc and no min/max, as it was in the original file;
-the version named Mendel: has 10 pins idc and .100 min/max of 3 pins each for compatibility with current mendel Gen3 Electronics and specifically Mb v1.2
I dont think i was inspired in getting the right versions names, but i am always lacking inspiration :))

* MB 1.2v: A4 file with tqfp pads edited, ready for transfer, 600 dpi: orientation of the board on the file would of been better horizontal, but then wouldnt fit one near the other. Check photo paper shrinkage (on vertical direction) with a real piece of .100 pins along their pads. Use good quality board materials for this one. RepRap modifications included (no longer compatible with other makerbot version): as per reprap.org/wiki/PCB_adaptions_for_Mendel the bridge near icsp header area, bridge(s) in atx connector area (leading to two traces in bottom layer to be combined on the top area of sd card - looks weird but its ok).

* added EC 2.2v: A4 file with tqfp pads edited, ready for transfer, 600 dpi. I did my own EC22 with a version that was almost at the size and spacings of the original file, and after doing it like that i decided it needs further spacing out and more severe cleaning up which i did in the file. As a result the images linked and the file are slightly different, and the last version should be better. However be warned, i did not tried this last version in real life myself, although i think it should work: use at your own risk, etc.

I really wanted to move to a microstep-capable stepper driver, and heard lots of good things about the board from Pololu that is based on the Allegro A4983 (http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1202). I went through several iterations of my PCB, and here is the "final" version -- well, it's the one that I sent in for prototyping. Note that there isn't any silkscreening on this image because ExpressPCB's proto service doesn't include that or soldermask. I drew the text as traces so there would at least be some labeling. Those weird cutouts inside of the U1 footprint are there because I thought some people might want to try to install the Pololu carrier board underneath the PCB if they were hurting for space above the board. I do not yet know if the location is in a good spot for the capacitor, yet. The small hole in the lower right corner is for the pot adjustment, and the hole in the middle is for the Allegro chip. Makergear gives a screw to use as a heatsink, so I figure people can poke the screw out from this hole, and then use the small pads above and below to hold the screw down with some wire (wrap it around the screw, then solder it into place).

this is a pololu stepper board for the reprap, it has on it all the power and end stop inputs and outputs.

this has the ability to set the micro stepping on it, with jumpers.

i have updated it a little since i posted the pictures, there is now a pull down resister and it is run a little better.

i also posted it up on my blog too.

mike-mack.blogspot.com/2010/07/another-board-it-was-slow-day.html

UNTESTED- Single sided stepper driver based on TB6560. This isn't ready for prime time yet, but it might be a good start point for someone.

This is a single-sided version of the makerbot stepper driver board v2.3
thingiverse.com/thing:393

I tweaked the board to make it easier to etch and make at home. The vias are not underneath components, simple wire links can replace the tracks on one side of the board, and the track sizes tweaked a bit.
It can still be improved.

This is a single board that contains most of the electronics required to run a RepRap. All the components that require soldering are through-hole.

Documentation can be found at objects.reprap.org/wiki/Gen2OnABoard

This board allows you to control one stepper motor, as well as receive input from two limit switches. It is based around the Allegro A3982 Stepper Motor Driver with Translator. The A3982 is capable of driving up to 2A per coil. This board was designed to improve upon and replace the v1.x series of stepper drivers which are based upon the venerable L297/L298 stepper drivers. The A3982 offers a number of improvements:

* Only one chip to solder, as opposed to the two chip L297/L298 combo
* Superior DMOS technology (no heatsink required!)
* Built-in diodes and synchronous rectification (no large diode array!)
* Much cheaper and smaller than the L297/L298 (about $10 cheaper, total!)

The downside is that the board is mostly SMT, although we made a conscious design decision to stick with some of the largest and easiest to solder SMT components on the market. We used 1206 sized resistors and the A3982 itself is in a SOIC package. The board is very easy to put together, even for a beginner. Using a technique such as solder paste + hot plate, the board becomes ridiculously easy to solder. I found that it is much easier to solder SMT boards in this fashion than to solder pin after pin manually with through-hole components.