A co-worker has a Traxxas JATO 3.3 radio controlled race car. He broke one of the struts and has ideas to make a custom setup. I worked with him for about an hour to sketch this up. It hasn't been printed yet but looks promising.

Notice the "JC" for his initials built into the structure. 3D Printing for the win!

There is a support peg included to hold the ball joint up. I suggested just using a bolt through a real ball joint, but the customer insisted we try it. Clip the support off and round off as needed.

Two spirals protrude up from a smooth base. For decorative purposes only.

This thing turns a Nespresso Cupsule box into a bench top dispenser.

I've found that the x idler pulley tends to ride up against the top y carriage wood. This creates noise and other problems.

There are bearing and belt holders and all manner of x axis improvements but I've yet to see one to fix this. The idler rides up due to the belt being pulled up to mesh with the x carriage belt teeth.

My solution is to customise the teethes position to match the belts natural path.

This is based off of Joakim's x follower openSCAD file so it can match its customization for a perfect x axis sliding action, print his and mine as they replace 2 separate parts.

All comments and suggestions welcomed, heck just comment

This is inspired by the Slim from Human Republic.

I found an article on Gizmodo and saw this slick money clip. (http://ideacious.com/details2000000051.htm?S=4216720422&L=0)

I sketched this model up and now you can print it out and see if you like it. If you do, please consider buying it from the original designers.

My friend needed a measuring cup so I designed one. It's sized based on volume, but otherwise super simple.

This is just a simple design that can be used for a number of things. Most commonly the commercial equivalent of this is used to blow air or liquid over tools on CNC machines, drill presses, etc. I am thinking of using it as an articulated arm to hold camera flashes off-camera and run wires through the center. Anything is possible.

Feel free to post up modifications, as this is tweaked to the fraction of a millimeter for my specific machine to be exactly as tight as I wanted them to be.

Note: I break a few here and there when putting them together. This is to be expected, and possibly thickening up the "neck" would fix this. I print 3 x 2 using multiply so this isn't a huge deal to break one every now and then.

EDIT: I uploaded all three resolutions. The highest is what made the links in the picture, but you may have similar luck with the other two resolutions. Thanks!

No, not that kind of pot. The kind you grow things IN! This hydroponics pot has a grid at the bottom to hold growing medium (perlite, vermiculite,pummice, clay beads etc.) in. If the plant's roots take control of the pot, these ones are made of Diamond Age Solutions' Ivory PLA so the whole lot can go in the compost bin when the growing season is over!

This is my 3rd version of printable LM8UU bushings.

Prusa suggested to me that putting some spring/give in them could be a good idea, so I gave it a go.

They're more than strong enough to handle the forces they get subjected to, and as an added bonus they're far less likely to crack your X-ends when you insert them since they'll happily compress a little.

I replaced a set of my original bushings with these, they're still wearing in but seem to work great so far. It certainly solved the chatter problem I had!

PLEASE NOTE: ABS is not a suitable material for bushings. It's too soft so it has lots of friction and wears quickly. These printed in ABS would be a novelty only, not a useful part.

PLA works well, as will any other hard plastics.

I recently built the Ninja CNC kit from CNCSNAP.com. They include some pretty good harware but I wanted my machine to be able to cut heavier material. So i began making upgrades to the machine. I replaced the laser cut motor mounts with HEAVY DUTY 3D printed ones that are probably a little "over" built. But stronger is better right? I also designed a very robust tool holder that fits the motor they supply with the kit. I love this tool holder, it works great. Note: you will need to drill a hole in the end of the clamp to bolt it together. I recommend a small diameter machine screw. Next I stiffened up the guide rods with a set of support claps on each rod. I made them slightly under sized so you will need to run a 1/4" drill through them. My "Y" axis coupler broke so I replaced it with thing 7059. I can't find the corner bracket file I used to stiffen up the frame but I'll post it when I do. I also bolted together my "Z" carriage because it wanted to split with putting the tool holder one it.
If you have any questions or want me to make other upgrade/ design changes just let me know.
Thanks and I hope you put these files to good use.

youtube.com/watch?v=GYD6TE_If6U

this is so you can use the "Bearing spool holder by chylld"
thingiverse.com/thing:7001
with makerbot and other spools that have a counter bore on one side.

Yo,

Do you have a Samsung Galaxy Tab 8.9" or 10.1" tablet?? If so here is a full featured docking solution!

At work we bought a fleet of 8.9 LTE Tab's and I immediately began creation of a dock that would work with a naked unit or with a TPU case on it.

Each dock has an adapter locking center channel and cable tunnel for the 30 pin power/data cable. I included 2 40mm unique dowels so you can easily slide the unit apart for addition and removal of the cable. The unit holds your Tab at a 20 degree angle perfect for desk usage or next to the bed. I widened the stance with the rear wedges so you can rest assured there will be no tipping even if your a hardcore screen basher. There are also dual front and rear speaker ports so you can mega jam even when docked with the 8.9!

I have uploaded 2 different solutions that work on each tablet variant (not physically tested on the 10.1 but the qualifying dimensions are the same):

1.) A standard sized dock that minimizes plastic used and print duration. This dock allows you to grip the side of the Tab in the dock and easily use a thumb keyboard without pulling it from the dock!

2.) A jumbo dock that goes almost to the edge of the 8.9 and looks like a dock that you might buy at a retailer (or at least I like to think so...).

All docks pictured with logos were on my beta units only and all uploaded docks are free of any branding.

**I have also attached my Sketchup master for your modding pleasures.**

This seals the end of a piece of "100mmx50mm" (which is a metric approximation) rectangular downpipe, closing the ends for a hydroponic run. It is parametric and can be rescaled to suit larger pipes, or indeed anything with a rounded rectangle profile that needs plugging!

This is a smaller version of the filament drive made by Jag. I made this from scratch in Sketchup, but based most of it around his design, because the larger 3mm version worked well. This, and the 1.75 settings were all I needed to immediately get the thinner plastic working. Requires no extra support, they are built into the model.

A friend (Ken) at work goes every year and wants to show it on his badge leash.

Besides looking cool, this simple Hollow Cube can be used to test ooze, retraction + bridging. It also ensures that your dimension are right and uses little material!

If you have a day job most likley you have to wear a badge and one of these leash things so I decided to dress mine up a little with a snap on cover, I've started with a deadmau5 logo and plan to add more designs so I can change it with my mood for the day.

Yes, this is a fully functional 8-bit big money piggy bank! My 3yr old daughter need a safe place to keep all her high-stakes rock/paper/scissors winnings. She sat down with me in-front of a clean Sketchup session and we began to construct a piggy bank that Mario would approve of.

Check my screen shots, I uploaded a plethora of images including object dimensions.

I printed this in ~6hrs using no support on my Thing-O-Matic's ABP.

My RIG:
TOM # 4890
MK6+
1.75mm
.4 nozzle
ABP with aluminum plate topper and titanium belt covered in kapton

**NEW UPDATE**

I've redesigned this and uploaded a new version (HBPWireGuide_012.STL)

This new design should be much simpler and work just as well if not better. The three anchors have cut outs to hold the nuts, and should fit snugly on the bottom plate. The connector is held by the main bar and the wires slide through the opening at the top. There are two spots to zip tie the wire bundle, and the wire guide is curved to guide them to the correct spot.

Here's the kicker.. My second HBP died. The connector melted through before I finished this first design and it was on it's last leg the whole time I've been printing this week. The continued heat applied to the already bent pin just finally did it in I guess. I am sure this design works well, but I am unable to print it myself just yet to test :( I am soldering wires onto the HBP as we speak, and it should be working soon so I can test this myself. What this means is that I am not sure what size bolts to use yet, or if I should extend the bolt holes so there is none protruding through the nut. You'll understand when you see the part. I might just simply extend the part so the bolts fit perfectly, but until I see it printed, I can't make that call.

If someone prints this and likes it, let me know please.

I attached a quick render I did of what it should resemble once printed and installed since I am unable to actually print this just yet.

This is the T5 pully belt gear for 4mm shaft steppers. Please let me know how it fits your motors. I've only printed it on my prusa which may vary.

I got an io gear kvm and needed a good way to mount it to the underside of a shelf.

Luckily with the makerbot thing-o-matic I could custom print parts specifically to hold it instead of having to scrap together duct tape or odd sized pieces of metal and wood to hold it in place.

This is probably not going to be very useful to anyone as is but maybe someone will use it to design their own brackets.

Mostly put it here because sharing is caring!

samsung galaxy video holder

I whipped this up after seeing what this person >>> (http://www.thingiverse.com/nervoussystem) made. It has to be scaled before you print it

Turn the unused keyholes in boltless shelves into practical hanging space.

Using 2 keyholes in the uprights this thing sits and provides a hook for things like scissors, headphones (I use 2 half shelves and a laminated MDF as a PC desk, huge desktop), pots and pans and a whole thingiverse of items.

Make your own custom 3d prints that are held up with this print.

Yes it’s completely parametric so it will work with any brand of keyhole style boltless shelves

The bridge in the model might sag, as long as it minimal it should add to prints snug fitting. (Yes it works better without a perfect bridge)

Some of the pics are of the non parametric version; it has a smaller wedge in the hook but otherwise is near identical to the openSCAD’s uploaded stl

Droid2 Portrait Stand

The $8 Ikea "Not" lamp is a great cheap floor lamp, and I've got several at home. I realized though that a few of the lamps I have would be nicer if they didn't need to rest on the floor, so I designed and printed this simple bracket that allows you to mount one on your wall. Its 6 5/8" long so its no good for a MakerBot, but it fits great on my Ultimaker and I think RepRaps could do it too.

Mine was printed with .35mm layer height (the "Low" quality profile in NetFabb) and 4.9mm infill spacing. Its a bit springy but I wanted a quick print to make sure it would even work. I'd recommend tighter infill like 2-3mm spacing for less springy-ness, which will be apparent when you switch it on, if you don't use a switched outlet.

Ikea lamp is here:
ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/10139879/

But they have plenty of cheap wall sconces, so this is more for those who want to convert an existing lamp. I do want to say though that I'm pretty happy for coming up with a real useful 3D print here.

My first variation of my original beer (errr, BEVERAGE) holder, with a relatively nice shape requiring no support to build (unlike my first design, which I designed LONG before I had a Thing-O-Matic). My first print of the original design (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15321) did not work out so well (so I cancelled the print 30 minutes into the estimated 7 hour & 50 minute print... full support just killed it).

My print of this version is already finished (364-layer print & took a little over 4 hours to built). The photos to the left are basically "fresh out of the printer", with very little clean-up.

Note: This version DOES NOT have the tapered "V" mounting block feature, like my first design. It's just a stand-alone can holder. But it works. And with it's MUCH shorter build time (versus my 1st design), I just wanted to print this version for real-world testing (and adjustments, if necessary). With it's 68mm inside design diameter, my beer (errr, BEVERAGE) slipped right into the holder, and it's a perfect fit... snug enough to hold the can with no slop or slippage (is "slippage" a word? Heh heh), but with no room for movement at all. Exactly as I'd planned it.

Loved the spindle idea by mikeg, but it was a tad too tall to print with my TOM.
So I opened the STL in netfabb and cut the spindle roughly in half.

It turned out well and the spool feeds very smoothly

This is a frame vertex for Mendel / Prusa Mendel using less material than the solid version. I know there are other attempts of vertexes - so this is just an additional one.

There is a version with feet and one without.
For a Mendel / Prusa Mendel, 6 vertexes are necessary. You can print two without feet and four with feet

Comments are welcome!

--> Please mind: this is for M8 rod!

Comments after the first print:
The vertex without feet weights 12 grams.
I printed it in ABS with 4 shells, 0.35mm nozzle, and with relatively coarse infill (you can see the infill on the picture of the vertexes while printing).
If I calculate that weight back to filament length it tells me that it takes about 1650mm of 3mm feedstock to print one of these.

Comments after the second print:
Printed the version with feet now.
Again in ABS, this time with 2 shells, 0.35mm nozzle, same coarse infill and they are 11 grams. They feel really robust but I did not screw a frame together yet so still needs to be tested if two such thin shells are ok.

This is my torch holder. I designed it to compliment my Parametric Battery Dispenser (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15149) and it mounts to the inside of a cupboard door for convenient access.

The design is sized to fit a LED Lenser M7 Torch but is highly parametric so can be used with just about any torch. I am sure that it could be used to hold many other tools as well.

I designed it to use double sided sticky foam to attach to the inside of a cupboard door but I have also included options that create mounting holes either horizontally or vertically. This as well as the mounting plate being fully parametric (You can choose between two corner styles as well), means I am confident that the design will suit many tastes.

The clasp part of the holder is also parametric so you can choose a thickness and also opening size that suits your materials and printer capabilities. The default values work well printed in PLA at 35% infill, 3 skins. This seems to be flexible enough that the torch can be pulled through the clasp without damaging the finish of the torch or stressing the plastic. YMMV

In the pipeline are a host of other door mounting fittings, I intend to organise all my most often used tools in this manner.