This is a cleaned up version of the printed clock we were able to make during Clockathon #2 last weekend. Thank you Makerbot and Bre for setting that up and hosting it, and thank you Ben for all the help, the awesome test print all set up, and the brilliant idea to back off one gear for the power drum.

It was ticking, powered by a weight that would only drop about 9" per twelve hour period, and included printed concentric shafts to support minute and hour hands on the face of the clock.

Here's some video: youtube.com/watch?v=AH4Tg2tIgfg
I had to inflict grievous harm to the code base at the time and have cleaned everything up since. See details below.

So boring, its perfect! Designed in Tinkercad, this cube is my test print for experimental print settings, new materials and calibration. Its dimensions are 10mmx10mmx10mm. Its volume is 1mL, Duh!
Great for beginners, repeat often to know your printer is working perfectly

This is a subset of the parts needed for a full Test Jig #4, modified to try concentric metal bushing/shafts instead of bearings on those gears that need to support hands on the face of the clock.

This is one of the original dualstrusion files for the experimental dual MK7, modified from Belakor's design by MakerBot intern Will Langford.

This test piece intentionally breaks the 45 degree rule to make it easier to tell how far you can bridge gaps on your particular printer. I find I can usually get away with about a centimeter.

These models are intended for additive manufacture too calibrate and match X&Y input to output. More to come.

I made these files to verify my 3D printer built accurate part geometry regardless of part orientation.

There's a series of star-shaped shafts at various angles, and a series of disks with star-shaped openings that should fit over any of the shafts in all 8 rotations.

A recent comment by Tony Buser (http://www.thingiverse.com/derivative:21136) got me thinking that this might be an instructive test for hobby printers, too.

A series of walls from 1mm to 6mm that shrink to half size halfway up. Use it to test different thickness and print options to find the right size wall for your build.

Home wind turbine based on a NACA 4412's profile with an optimized twisting

A quick and dirty sketchup text plate to test my new printer.

Works as a decent first test print, doesn't contain any tricky bits.

The size is 101.4 x 56.0 mm

zbrush sculpt

Besides looking cool, this simple Hollow Cube can be used to test ooze, retraction + bridging. It also ensures that your dimension are right and uses little material!

Small part to test the overhang capability of your 3D printer.
from 30° to 5°

Made with sketchup

The one on the picture is made of ABS and sliced at 0.2mm.

After the clock hackathon today at MBI, I decided to try to copy the escapement from this clock from YouTube:

youtube.com/watch?v=VJ2OkslQSzU

So, here's the parametric code I've written tonight in OpenSCAD. It's meant to take bearings of arbitrary size, screws of arbitrary size, and make the escapement seen in the video.

It's not done yet.

If you want to support the clock hackathon, please help out and whip this file into shape so we can start printing some escapements!

This is my smallest simplified version of my aqua-pool model. Trying to figure out how far my printer can be pushed. It appears that I will be able include the other missing walls yet.

4 pieces with circles and hexagons. they go from .5mm radius to 4mm radius. i made this to see just how small I can print these shapes horizontally and vertically.

The inspiration for this part is to aid in calibrating the X axis within .02 mm or .002 in of accuracy.

The inspiration for this part is to aid in calibrating the X axis within .02 mm or .002 in of accuracy.

i am trying to design a ATX PSU adapter for a reprap,

i am really looking for feadback on this one to make it better

Wanted the Deer to leave a new fruit tree alone, so, attachable eyes.

OK, its been a few weeks and NO deer on that side of the house. Seems they heard about this evolving Urban legend.

This is a gear that I was testing to see if the extrusions would yield an STL safe model. I went through a lot of options and found that it worked best if I used the Quadify Modifier in 3ds max after extruding the base shape. Applying the Quadify Modifier added the necessary polygons to the object's front and rear faces. Enabling me to use various shapes to shape merge the object and later extrude the faces.

here a small printtest..

printed with abs black
nozzle .35
layerhight .28


geeksbase.com

This is a frame vertex for Mendel / Prusa Mendel using less material than the solid version. I know there are other attempts of vertexes - so this is just an additional one.

There is a version with feet and one without.
For a Mendel / Prusa Mendel, 6 vertexes are necessary. You can print two without feet and four with feet

Comments are welcome!

--> Please mind: this is for M8 rod!

Comments after the first print:
The vertex without feet weights 12 grams.
I printed it in ABS with 4 shells, 0.35mm nozzle, and with relatively coarse infill (you can see the infill on the picture of the vertexes while printing).
If I calculate that weight back to filament length it tells me that it takes about 1650mm of 3mm feedstock to print one of these.

Comments after the second print:
Printed the version with feet now.
Again in ABS, this time with 2 shells, 0.35mm nozzle, same coarse infill and they are 11 grams. They feel really robust but I did not screw a frame together yet so still needs to be tested if two such thin shells are ok.

To test an 3D Printer.

This is the testing piece i use for calibration. It contains:
- A 10-80mm bridge
- A 0-90° overhang (the impossible 90° one sits flat against the bed, so no results from that one anyways)
- A 3mm hole in vertical, horizontal and 45°-between-both-directions
- Two slightliy different gear-like-shapes to test for ABS curl
- A long nose (one end of the bridge) to test for bed adhesion
- 90° corners for overshoot/wobble testing
- A small flat surface for checking if you have infill sag visible
- Rounded corners for Marlin to have some fun

There is no provisioning for checking steps/mm, since a) you should calculate those through the specs you have, not guess them by what your printer is churning out, and b) you should have those set correctly if trying to print this thing.

The part is 5mm high and its longest side is 93mm - so it should fit on any printer. Printing takes around 10 minutes.

UPDATE 12/29/2011 2:42PM- Deleted old .stl, it was bad, added correct file.


These two test pieces are printed with one on the X and one on the Y axis. The idea is that they should both fit each other. Use when your circles come out oval.

If the X and Y are not calibrated well this test will show you which is off.

Updated with current prices and has:-

Large letter slot that is now 250mm x 25mm

and the Letter slot which is now 165mm x 5mm

It also now includes Packet pricing for UK first class packets from 1kg upwards.. Packets above 1kg can only be 1st class

Prices seem to have gone up by 10%-12%
The larger the item or its weight
The price increase seems to be more like 10% than 12%

NOTE! When using this if you have to put ANY pressure on the letter or package to get it through it is a FAIL!!.

If you item falls straight through the intended slot it is OK.

You can not cheat on this!! "ANY" pressure required to get it through it will cost more to post as the item being posted moves up from a letter to a large letter or from a Large Letter to a Packet,

This "thing" is a filament guide for the Thing-O-Matic, requiring no modifications to the machine body. It simply snaps in place of any of your ToMs' top guide-rod openings (uncovered, of course), depending on the location of your spool holder.

My ToM's Z-axis motor wires run into the back/right opening at the top of my ToM, so I designed this guide with a channel for those wires. Your adaptation of this model may require repositioning that channel, or simply adding that channel to all sides of the model (it's up to you... hey, it's a free world here).

This "upgrade" or "modification" piece was designed to snap into any of your ToMs' top guide-rod openings. My print did not "snap" in, but fit well. The base of the model works very well, but the guide arms need to be fully reworked. After using this in conjunction with my own filament spool holder, I now know the geometry needed to make this part work. The guide arms need to be removed & completely redesigned (they are backwards, and their size needs to be increased).

THIS IS A WORK IN PROGRESS!!! PRINT THIS PART AT YOUR OWN RISK & WASTE OF PLASTIC! I have printed this object with success, but it does not meet my requirements yet(and probably not yours).

This "thing" works, but the arched guide arms do nothing & tend to put a lot of uneccessary stress on the "A" axis (filament drive stepper motor) of my Gen-4 ToM. (My filament spool holder needs a bearing, and my filament guide needs the proper geometry.) Yes, this filament holder works (at least the center part works), but the guide arms need to be reversed (per Z axis) so that they hold the filament UP instead of DOWN... (and repositioned somewhat) and they could be a bit thicker, for sure! (If you don't trust me, go ahead and print this object. You'll see.) Everything but the guide arms work great!

Version 2 is located here: thingiverse.com/thing:15066

A 'placeholder' is a term given in the 3D film and game industry for a temporary model used to represent a final character or item before that item is finished.
This is a placeholder of a 50g servo that I use when I am layout out the components for a robot or radio control project in 3D CAD. I have tried to make it as close as possible to the specimen servo (futaba) as necessary.

A solid 3D representation of a common 50g servo used in many hobby projects. Great for CAD assemblies for robot or RC car projects.

Designed to test X and Y calibration, this test will show you which axis needs work and by how much. NO CALIPERS REQUIRED!

"NOTICE: This test presumes that your calibration is close on x and y and that your extruder is dead on. Filament size can effect internal holes and exterior diameter if not correctly calibrated.

This is to reconcile the axis against each other and ensure printed parts will fit into each other as expected.

The procedures mentioned here are my own and may have flaws I did not foresee."

The parts are labeled with the axis they are printed on length wise.

So, each axis and should show true. (Meaning the X Bar should fit the X slot even if the machine is off, same for Y bar and Y slot.)

The bars start with 20mm long and work down to 19.7mm. All bars are 5mm wide.

The slots are both 20mm long and 5.2mm wide (To allow you only test length).

I will post a full write up soon on the exact procedure to use this test.