This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online tinkercad.com/things/6hPrxNow4mv

I made this on 4-29-13, and forgot to post it to thingiverse. i was trying to learn how to use a similar program for the past couple of weeks, and decided to see if i could look at other people's creations on tinkercad. to my delight, I found that Tinkercad was BACK, BABY!!!

tinkercad is fun quick and easy. thats why i like using it

Land Rover entered production in 1948 with what was later termed the Series I. This was launched at the Amsterdam Motor Show. It was originally designed for farm and light industrial use, and had a steel box-section chassis, and an aluminum body.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Land_Rover_Series
crankandpiston.com/on-the-road/1955-land-rover-series-i-86-the-legend-in-the-uae/

This is roughly based on the original 1959 Moko Lesney Matchbox toy, #12, Land Rover 86 inch wheelbase AKA SWB. A longer wheelbase (107 inches) was also available. bamca.org/cgi-bin/single.cgi?id=RW12a While I can't duplicate the finish of the original die cast, I can add details like spare tyres for mounting on the bonnet or rear bulkhead. There are two versions of the short-wheelbase body, one with a driver and one without.

If you haven't seen "The Gods Must Be Crazy" stop whatever you are doing and find, steal, or download (maybe all three) the movie. Here's a little snippet: youtube.com/watch?v=fxCJL6GGsdE

UPDATE 4/6/13 I have uploaded a double-sized version of the driverless Series I SWB, in several files. It is twice the size of the original Matchbox model, with upgraded Non-Directional-Tread (NDT) on the tires, a dubious vanity on my part. The bigger wheels necessitates bigger axles and retainers (hubs), included in the new plates. The fit is tight; you might want to drill out the wheels a bit. Jambo!

All tinkered in Tinkercad while I can. Tinkercad is dead; Long live Tinkercad!

This is a v-shaped bicycle accessory bar. There are plenty of t-shaped accessory bars but they did not have the ability to house my light, iPhone and HD-Camera at the same time. The design is optimised so as not to require supports and it is as solid as a rock even with 10% infill. Very little vibration.

It holds 19 crayons! It looks very cool with all the crayons in them!
I do recommend using crayola normal sized crayons! I did a red base
and yellow body! I do not have a double extruder on my Replicator 2
but it is easy to change it. (I said that because I wanted you to know it was not a multicolored file) Please enjoy it and build it! It is a easy present to wrap :)

Suppose you want to mock up the mounting of a NEMA stepper motor, or position mounting holes in another part... Now you can. Use the STLs either virtually or print them and use them for alignment purposes.

Make the world a birder place!

Easy to make, easy to clean, attractive, good for the planet! Uses any Mason-style canning jar and ring, easily scalable to different size jars, provided they have the standard opening. Doesn't leak when when assembled (though any hummingbird feeder may drip with temperature-related internal pressure changes).

From the Schlaboratory and designed with TINKER-days-are-numbered-CAD.

For more images, see:
flickr.com/photos/theschlem/sets/72157633286126925/

Here is my mascot! I hope you like it!

Time spent reprinting and reaming parts because of tolerance differences between your CAD and printed models can really start to add up. I've found that the number of shells on an object is directly effects the tolerances on any part. I made these cylinder gages as reference tools to help remedy the issue.

####HOW TO USE:
1. Measure the size screw you want to use - *M3, M4, M6, etc...*
2. Decide on number of shells being used - *1 shell, 2 shells, 3 shells, etc...*
2. Match gage to program being used - *TinkerCAD or OpenSCAD*
3. Find appropriate size hole for screw on gage - *M3 screw fits in TinkerCAD 4mm hole*
4. Use matching digital hole size in CAD model - *In software 3mm hole changed to 4mm hole*
6. Reprint with correct tolerances! - *Fit's like a glove*


##Reference Material
I printed one of each of these with 1 shell, 2 shells and 3 shells. I would recommend printing them with your most frequently used shell preferences.
####GAGE SCALE:
*1mm - 1.5 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 - 7 - 8 - 9 - 10 - 11 - 12 - 13 - 14 - 15 - 16 - 17 - 18 - 19 - 20mm*
####RULE OF THUMB:
* higher # of shells = smaller the size of holes
* higher # of shells = larger the size of cylinders

a time Lord high Council cookie-cutter in three parts,
cutter,symbol press & handle

ANY comments Greatly appreciated
how am I going to know if I screwed up if nobody tells me?

here's the Star Trek badge with the doctor's medical symbol
one with the symbol raised and one recessed

A picture of heather, that was originally made for mother's day.

This is a love letter to both Tinkercad and my cohort in Paramedic Training, Class XXXVIII. Designed for and printed in laser-sintered nylon, by Shapeways. If you wanted to print this on a RepRap style printer, I would begin by slicing the C-Squid longitudinally and printing top and bottom flat, and separating the arm from the base, and then gluing the resulting printed parts back together.

Designed in Tinkercad, to fit 6mm ply, like Printrbot. Keeps your wiring firmly secured, designed for 15 mm looming.

Your license plate framed by all four flavors of Conway's Glider "life form".

Now, in all four flavors! Let your Geek flag fly! Embellish anything!

More information:
(broken links work in the comments section)
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conway's_Game_of_Life
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glider_(Conway's_Life)
catb.org/hacker-emblem/
fishbowl.pastiche.org/2003/10/30/why_the_hacker_logo_is_stupid/


animated GIFs from Wikipedia
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f2/Game_of_life_animated_glider.gif
upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e5/Gospers_glider_gun.gif

Greymantalker requested these.
I tried converting the original complete 3-D print files,but all I got was just the blank outline
so here are the individual components in,svg
so people can assemble their own ( I hope, I hope )

this is probably the last of the 50-ish sci-fi badges. at least for the moment I'm out of ideas. but hey I've got until April 30 until TinkerCAD closes out my account so who knows

yet another set of 50-ish sci-fi badges
these with a Saturn motif.
I'm not sure that the one with the tilted ring
is going to print very well but you can try if you are using a fine print head.

probably the last set of the classic trek badges, both raised and recessed plus the blanks.
The circle that was on the others has been removed
and I tried to clean up the symbols a little bit

I gave you Batman so before ,We lose Tinkercad. I thought I had better make a Robin.
If Any one uses it for Halloween or Cosplay, I would like to see a pic,

another set of 50s-ish sci-fi Ranger badges.
there should be another one or two before I run out of ideas.

in a trek episode"in the future"Capt. Riker or Adm. Janeway-(don't remember which) had a combadge more or less this design I didn't check for reference,more or less winging it from memory

set 2 of some ye old 50s sci-fi inspired badges
inspired by the Mini keychain I saw on the site
last week although I started from scratch (needed to make too many small changes) 3-2-1-Rockets are go!!

saw the Mini keychain and it sparked some old
50s sci-fi memories..so here's some pins and badges in the old space Ranger style.
Set one of at least three
3-2-1-Rockets are go!!

DutchMogul's original set had some problems that made it fail when I printed it. I tried to preserve the feel of the original in my edits which were:

* Lowered the platforms to remove overhang
* Raised the Rooks helmet to make it taller than the pawn w/o the platform
* Thickened the neck of the bishop.
* Thickened the chimney on the king's hat
* Put the pieces on a plate ready to print

Version 2 also scaldes up all the pieces, the pawn by a little bit less to make them closer to normal chess pieces sizes.

Put your project in an Altoids case. This has blocks that hold the PCB and can be "melted" with a soldering iron or similar to keep the PCB in place. Also, there are 2mm holes that can be drilled out to your preference to use screws to hold the PCB in place. There is 3 mm of space under the PCB, ample room for wires and leads underneath.

Radio Shack still sells a general purpose PCB (part #276-150 radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102845 ) that is very useful and for which I have designed an Arduino compatible circuit. The PCB has 417 holes, so the design has been dubbed "417duino" (although I regret not calling it 4-seventeeno)

Access for FTDI programming, power, or other connections may necessitate holes through the Altoids tin, but I leave that as an exercise for you, gentle maker.

More info on 417duino:
schlaboratory.blogspot.com/p/417duino.html

flickr.com/photos/theschlem/sets/72157625567064447/

Let me know if you have any questions.

Put your Arduino in an Altoids case. This has blocks that hold the PCB and can be "melted" with a soldering iron or similar to keep the PCB in place. Also, there are 2mm holes that can be drilled out to your preference to use screws to hold the Arduino in place. There is 3 mm of space under the PCB, ample room for wires and leads underneath.


Access for USB programming, power, or other connections will necessitate holes through the Altoids tin, but I leave that as an exercise for you, gentle maker.

This thing has Steve (from Minecraft) holding a diamond sword, along with other fairly well-known Minecraft mobs.