This is to help you align your tap or drill to be perpendicular to the work surface.
I have included the SCAD file for you to tinker with, or you can just print the default, which has 9 holes, from 2mm to 10mm in diameter in 1mm steps.

Industrial Strength Caulk Ring, increase performance with this Caulking Upgrade.

If you've done a lot of soldering lately, then you are familiar with using metallic brillo to clean the tip of your soldering iron. More efficient than a sponge or water, it's a quick and efficient means of cleaning the tip.

I gave away my holder last year, and sadly, Fry's has not carried replacements since. Frustrated after a year, I created my own simplified version.

Thank you to Padawan for the great assist and patience on 8 revisions, for something so simple.

The guys at Moving Brands challenged us to help them print their own Chocolate Advent Calendar in a month.

We already knew about the Frostruder, and had most of the parts to build a RepRap Prusa, so the solution seemed obvious. They ordered a Frostruder, and we got busy building their Prusa.

Things got exciting when we tried to mount the Frostruder to the Prusa carriage - it was just too big and bulky!

Luckily, inspiration struck. We stripped down the Frostruder to the bare bones, and used the Prusa to print its own adaptor.

Lo and behold, chocolate printing goodness!

Moving Brands Advent Promotional Video: vimeo.com/33775105
Moving Brands Advent Calendar: movingbrands.com/advent

Someone I know is hand-making a game that uses hexagonal pieces. They are using epoxy modelling clay and other miniature figure making materials. When I saw they were cutting the bases by hand I offered to print simple plastic bases for them or make a convenient hexagon "cookie-cutter" so that they would line up with each other better. These pieces are 33mm along a side or 66mm from two opposite points... so they are smaller than Catan pieces (which are 45mm on a side and 90mm across BTW), however as the script is parametric it could be modified to make compatible tiles.

Changes from previous versions:
0.3
- Added proper comments and cleaned up code
- Implemented Parametric Variables
0.2
- switched to using 6 sided conical frustrum
0.1
- First attempt using extruded 6-sided polygon

one of the most useful tools

This is a cover for an exacto knife blade so you can safely throw it in a toolbox without damaging the blade or anything in your toolbox. You can adjust the sizes to fit different sizes, this is for a #11 blade.

Clips onto the side of a bfb-3000 or bfb touch.

We use it to hold rolls of double sided tape and rolls of kapton which we use with our printer.

monkeywrench and you dont have to be a monkey to use it.

My friend needed a measuring cup so I designed one. It's sized based on volume, but otherwise super simple.

Used in Histology to make sure that a piece of tissue is flat ("Tamped down") on the botom of the embedding well.

Designed in trueSpace and printed on an Up!3D printer.

a printable cresentwrench

I designed this to be able to use my Dremel tool & extension shaft as a small cutoff saw. It can cut about 1/4" (6mm) diameter stock in a single cut, or 1/2" (13mm) by turning the stock.
Requires an extension shaft with a 1/2" diameter handpiece; unfortunately, a lot of the extension shafts currently available have contoured handpieces and won't work.
ZIP file contains source files from Solidworks 2011.

Parametric hinged and bolted attachment for square bars

This OpenSCAD script will generate a 2 part holder to attach a Tyndall WIMUv3 to the upright square cross-sectional posts on the moveable sled part of the assassin trainer at Bath University. The size of the bar it is attached to can be parametrically varied

Todo:
test fit and adjust
add "wiggle" for bolts and captured nuts

Warnings:
None

Note:
You will need to also have the modules mouse_ears_test.scad, pivot_1_0.scad and rounded_cuboid_v2.4.scad in the same directory or your library for this to compile correctly

Changes from previous versions:
0.4
- Adjusted position of cutouts around hinge and bolt clamp so that they dont go all the way through the wall to make for easier printing and drilling
- Made hinge pin larger to make it easier to insert hinge pin without drilling
0.3
- Added option to add device holder on side or not using use_holder variable
- Fixed large clamp part so that it has correct internal dimensions
- Increased height of small cutouts on long side of WIMU hodler so that activity LED can be seen
- added comments
- Moved everything up onto the build plane
- Fixed some translate issues where bar_stock_l and bar_stock_b were mixed up
- Moved the hinge and bolt side cutouts so that a thin piece of material would connect the 2 halves
- Moved the mouse ears into the union and differecne operations applied to the main clamp body
0.2
- reduced individual parts count by using the pivot module only twice and using cut lines to split it up
0.1
- First attempt

A handfull of collets for things 16682 and/or 16890 !

The ZIP file contains 48 STL to accomodate the drill bits I use the most.

As you can see, there's also collets for hex bits, size 6.25mm face to face.

They work fairly well, check out the pic with the piece of wood, it's a 15mm thick piece of oak and I have been able to go through it with the 1mm bit ! yes, it took me a while ;-)

printable belt splitter

Last night, my wife needed a circle template for an art project she was doing. This took about 15 minutes to make in total, from design to finished product. And that is why 3D printing is awesome.

The largest hole is 4cm diameter and they decrease in diameter by 0.5cm to a minimum size of 0.5cm.

If anyone is interested, I could take a stab at parametrizing this in OpenSCAD.

This jig will hold a #2 pencil on your build platform. This is handy to hold a pencil in place so you can easily write on it with your Thing-O-Matic.

Write whatever you desire out of InkScape onto your pencil.

Check out the video of my ToM in action.

For Thing-A-Day Day 01 I created a pegboard suitable for mounting and testing gear trains and similar, using Tony Buser's fabulous Pin Connector V2 tools. I figured this tool might be useful for the MakerBot Clock Makers project and for educators and students looking to explore basic gear mechanics. This tool will become more useful as people (maybe you? maybe me?) generate tools to lock gears into place for heavier use.

It seems that when I realize that I need to add cooling while printing a part, it needs to be RIGHT NOW, and not after I ruin a part and generate new gcode with cooling.

Sometimes I want to cool right at the extruder, and sometime I want to cool the whole build.

My solution is to mount a 40x40mm fan on the end of a gooseneck, and mount it to the top of my makerbot, so I can instantly swing it into action when needed.

I recently built the Ninja CNC kit from CNCSNAP.com. They include some pretty good harware but I wanted my machine to be able to cut heavier material. So i began making upgrades to the machine. I replaced the laser cut motor mounts with HEAVY DUTY 3D printed ones that are probably a little "over" built. But stronger is better right? I also designed a very robust tool holder that fits the motor they supply with the kit. I love this tool holder, it works great. Note: you will need to drill a hole in the end of the clamp to bolt it together. I recommend a small diameter machine screw. Next I stiffened up the guide rods with a set of support claps on each rod. I made them slightly under sized so you will need to run a 1/4" drill through them. My "Y" axis coupler broke so I replaced it with thing 7059. I can't find the corner bracket file I used to stiffen up the frame but I'll post it when I do. I also bolted together my "Z" carriage because it wanted to split with putting the tool holder one it.
If you have any questions or want me to make other upgrade/ design changes just let me know.
Thanks and I hope you put these files to good use.

youtube.com/watch?v=GYD6TE_If6U

This tool is useful for marking the center of a square, cylinder and rectancular objects

This tool holder will mount in place on the Z platform in place of the extruder allowing you to cut shapes out of paper vinyl or other thin material without much effort. It does require a very level bed and I recommend cutting on a cut down cutting mat.

This was designed to hold a leading brand craft cutter's blade holder.

Turn you MakerBot into a "ShopSmith" type multi-tool!

I likes that design of Wildseyed Spool Feeder but i don't want to waste plastic for the big Vertex feet. Also i made some feet for this design :)

I saw a video on youtube where a milling machine levelled it's own bed by cutting a tiny layer off the surface and thought this concept may be a good way to level your bed for cold bed printing. It's opposite of the milling concept but it should work.

The idea being that as you print the shim the height differences would be levelled out by the act of the plastic not being squashed down on the low parts. As more layers are printed the process finds the level by gravity for the low areas and compression for the high areas.

I think 3 to 5mm high would be enough to level out the low spots, this is just an idea whilst I rebuild my printer.

A simple structure like the attached stl sized for your bed should not use up much plastic. You may need to run some sandpaper over it to clean up bulge for the high spots.

This is a filament dust remover in cylindrical form. It can be attached anywhere on the filament. On top of the extruder or before your filament guide, etc.

Deliver up to 6 Spices onto your Meals like a Boss!

Saw a pic from a asian desinerpage with a similar approach.. and designed my own rightaway.


Wont Fit a ToM but try scaled down.

all need some outer support.

This is one of the best wire strippers I have ever used. If setup correctly, it can be very precise and give feedback telling when the blades have cut deep enough.

Use:
Sight down the blades.
Align the blades with where the wire should be stripped.
Move the wire into the blades having the blades cut into the insulation.
When the blades cut through the insulation and contact the wire the LED will light.
Spin the wire or the tool to cut the insulation completely around the wire.
Remove the wire from the tool and pull off the insulation.

This fits into a hole from a 3" recessed lighting fixture, and allows you to draw a 6" hole for a larger replacement fixture.

The base fits into the existing hole and the flange keeps it flush with the ceiling.

I really like Misguided's broom head mount (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4744) but wanted to mount the handle at an angle for easier use. So, I modified his model slightly.