A co-worker has a Traxxas JATO 3.3 radio controlled race car. He broke one of the struts and has ideas to make a custom setup. I worked with him for about an hour to sketch this up. It hasn't been printed yet but looks promising.

Notice the "JC" for his initials built into the structure. 3D Printing for the win!

There is a support peg included to hold the ball joint up. I suggested just using a bolt through a real ball joint, but the customer insisted we try it. Clip the support off and round off as needed.

This is a small tray that can be used to hold Dremel bits. It has notches and stubs to clip several of them together.

I just could not resist. Now your earphone winder is also a handy bottle opener!

The skull is now 2mm thicker than before to make it strong enough to open a bottle.

I ran out of material on the last layer of this print as can be seen from the missing diagonal fill and outline. Despite that it still looks and works great. Enjoy!

This is to help you align your tap or drill to be perpendicular to the work surface.
I have included the SCAD file for you to tinker with, or you can just print the default, which has 9 holes, from 2mm to 10mm in diameter in 1mm steps.

Another Filament Guide

If you've done a lot of soldering lately, then you are familiar with using metallic brillo to clean the tip of your soldering iron. More efficient than a sponge or water, it's a quick and efficient means of cleaning the tip.

I gave away my holder last year, and sadly, Fry's has not carried replacements since. Frustrated after a year, I created my own simplified version.

Thank you to Padawan for the great assist and patience on 8 revisions, for something so simple.

I've found that the x idler pulley tends to ride up against the top y carriage wood. This creates noise and other problems.

There are bearing and belt holders and all manner of x axis improvements but I've yet to see one to fix this. The idler rides up due to the belt being pulled up to mesh with the x carriage belt teeth.

My solution is to customise the teethes position to match the belts natural path.

This is based off of Joakim's x follower openSCAD file so it can match its customization for a perfect x axis sliding action, print his and mine as they replace 2 separate parts.

All comments and suggestions welcomed, heck just comment

one of the most useful tools

This is inspired by the Slim from Human Republic.

I found an article on Gizmodo and saw this slick money clip. (http://ideacious.com/details2000000051.htm?S=4216720422&L=0)

I sketched this model up and now you can print it out and see if you like it. If you do, please consider buying it from the original designers.

I really like thingiverse.com/thing:7820# it's an elegant solution to the spool management problem. It's cool the way that it attaches to the top of the machine, taking up a minimum of space.

Sometimes though, the filament has to move at an awkward angle, so I designed this additional bracket to tilt the spool and give the filament an easier time.

monkeywrench and you dont have to be a monkey to use it.

cyclone to catch the spray while purging/cleaning an airbrush.

Using a cyclone seems to be the obvious choice for this, but you cannot buy one.

a printable cresentwrench

I started out simply wanting to print a giant bread tag for a friend. Little did I know that an entire taxonomy exists for the parasitoids known as Occlupanid (Occlu = to close, pan = bread).

The most thorough research into these organisms has been conducted by the Holotypic Occlupanid Research Group - horg.com/horg. Their work was even used in the report "Plastic bag clip discovered in partial colectomy accompanying proposal for phylogenic plastic bag clip classification" published in the BMJ Case Reports journal: casereports.bmj.com/content/2011/bcr.02.2011.3869.abstract.

While the SCAD file is parametric so far I have only designed (bred?) one example of the Toxodenta (curved teeth) order, based on an example I found in the wild which appears to conform to the classification of Palpatophora utiliformis - horg.com/horg/Palpatophora_utiliformis.htm.

I intend to extend the SCAD file to include examples of species from each order. I also encourage people to create their own variations and mutations. Let's see if we can get these creatures to evolve into something new! ;-)

This is a simple safety mechanism that I designed to prevent a stove from being turned on when people lean against it.

When I have parties in my apartment, people tend to lean against the stove and accidentally turn the gas on. Obviously, this is bad. The Stove Stopper 3000 fits snugly between the knob and the stove face-plate to prevent the knob from being depressed, and therefore, from turning.

This is just a simple design that can be used for a number of things. Most commonly the commercial equivalent of this is used to blow air or liquid over tools on CNC machines, drill presses, etc. I am thinking of using it as an articulated arm to hold camera flashes off-camera and run wires through the center. Anything is possible.

Feel free to post up modifications, as this is tweaked to the fraction of a millimeter for my specific machine to be exactly as tight as I wanted them to be.

Note: I break a few here and there when putting them together. This is to be expected, and possibly thickening up the "neck" would fix this. I print 3 x 2 using multiply so this isn't a huge deal to break one every now and then.

EDIT: I uploaded all three resolutions. The highest is what made the links in the picture, but you may have similar luck with the other two resolutions. Thanks!

I got sick of breaking other endstop holders when trying to mount it on the smooth rod. On a whim I decided to model a hinge. It printed a working hinge the first time!

This one fits my endstop switches which are 5.6x6.45x12.75. It clamps with one M3x10 screw.

v2 Update: The hinge pin wasn't printing all the way through because of an error in the model. This was making the hinge weaker. v2 Fixes this problem. I also added the gcode. It is 0.3mm layer height 0.5mm extrusion width, 0.35 infill.

Pets are great! Pet hair in everything you own is not so great. After recently receiving a Pogoplug with all of it's bounty of usb ports, I thought it would be silly to leave them to fill with dust and dog hair. I made this simple insert to help keep dirt, dust, and dog hair out of the socket.

Parametric hinged and bolted attachment for square bars

This OpenSCAD script will generate a 2 part holder to attach a Tyndall WIMUv3 to the upright square cross-sectional posts on the moveable sled part of the assassin trainer at Bath University. The size of the bar it is attached to can be parametrically varied

Todo:
test fit and adjust
add "wiggle" for bolts and captured nuts

Warnings:
None

Note:
You will need to also have the modules mouse_ears_test.scad, pivot_1_0.scad and rounded_cuboid_v2.4.scad in the same directory or your library for this to compile correctly

Changes from previous versions:
0.4
- Adjusted position of cutouts around hinge and bolt clamp so that they dont go all the way through the wall to make for easier printing and drilling
- Made hinge pin larger to make it easier to insert hinge pin without drilling
0.3
- Added option to add device holder on side or not using use_holder variable
- Fixed large clamp part so that it has correct internal dimensions
- Increased height of small cutouts on long side of WIMU hodler so that activity LED can be seen
- added comments
- Moved everything up onto the build plane
- Fixed some translate issues where bar_stock_l and bar_stock_b were mixed up
- Moved the hinge and bolt side cutouts so that a thin piece of material would connect the 2 halves
- Moved the mouse ears into the union and differecne operations applied to the main clamp body
0.2
- reduced individual parts count by using the pivot module only twice and using cut lines to split it up
0.1
- First attempt

A protective case for a square dongle.

This is specifically for my toaster oven, but would work with other models with similar knob types.

I made a large flower press for my wife a few years ago when we were engaged so she could press ferns for our wedding invitations. She enjoyed it and how they came out. The other night we were discussing pressing flowers and how her big press was too big for doing just a flower or two. I decided it would be a fun idea to make a printable flower press. It's pretty basic but it will do the job.

Storage cabinets are great for organizing small parts. Unfortunately the one I recently bought from Lowes didn't come with drawer dividers, so I fired up OpenSCAD and made my own.

The script is fully parameterized so you can customize it to fit whatever drawers are out there. The default values fit the smaller drawers on a Shop Stack-On 39-Drawer Storage Cabinet ( lowes.com/pd_124553-941-DSB-39_ )

For updates, check out the code on github: github.com/jherrm/Drawer-Divider

For more info, see this post: jherrman.com/2012/02/3d-printed-drawer-dividers/

A shorter version of the thingiverse.com/thing:16706 holder. I tweaked the dimensions so it fits my toothbrush heads better, reduced the number of holes and centered them along the axis.

I was excited when I found JohnnyR's mirror clip (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:977) on thingiverse because I wanted to be able to help my wife hang a mirror in our new house. Sadly the design was too thick for our mirror and would have left too much room between the wall and the clip. I decided the best solution to the problem was to just redesign it in OpenSCAD to make it parametric so no one would have this problem again.

I needed (wanted) a longer handle for this thing so i did it.

Just a quick OpenSCAD that slices the skaft.stl in three pieces (bottom, middle and top) and then, it puts them back together changing the length of the middle section to fit the length that has been entered as a parameter.

I tagged this with the "thing-a-day" tag... Oups! I was too late to sign-up so, I guess I shouldn't. I have no problem to remove the tag :-( just let me know

My previous shot at this[1] didn't manage to blow too much air onto the nozzle. Some people were even beginning to try dangerous things to get it to blow harder, like blocking the air path through the radiator fins.

A better solution is, of course, a beefier fan! The standard Mk7 fan is rather wimpy, but you can get 4mm fans which will blow much harder (see the second picture for a comparison). Since there's more flow all around, we can even divert a larger portion of the flow towards the nozzle, so I changed the duct to do just that.

With this setup, I get quite a strong air flow around the nozzle.


[1] thingiverse.com/thing:16392

This is my 3rd version of printable LM8UU bushings.

Prusa suggested to me that putting some spring/give in them could be a good idea, so I gave it a go.

They're more than strong enough to handle the forces they get subjected to, and as an added bonus they're far less likely to crack your X-ends when you insert them since they'll happily compress a little.

I replaced a set of my original bushings with these, they're still wearing in but seem to work great so far. It certainly solved the chatter problem I had!

PLEASE NOTE: ABS is not a suitable material for bushings. It's too soft so it has lots of friction and wears quickly. These printed in ABS would be a novelty only, not a useful part.

PLA works well, as will any other hard plastics.

These models are intended for additive manufacture too calibrate and match X&Y input to output. More to come.

I don't like the way my ToM's X axis handles the HBP cable: it keeps rubbing against the Y axis carriage, and the connector is constantly subject to different forces, which some people tell me can lead to HBP failure.

Since I anchor my HBP with just three bolts (that's all that's needed to align it... if you use more, you are probably twisting it), I used one of the corner holes in the X carriage platform to hold this beam, and a ziptie to hold the cable in place at the end of the beam.

That way, all the cable's forces get transferred to the X carriage body, and the connectors are spared all stress.

Update: Made it shorter (what was I thinking?) and easier to print (there's a thin membrane between the nut trap and the bolt hole now, to keep the trap clean).