Its a design for a small office catapult. Now you can bombard your boss with small stuff. Best results with 3M notes.

Feel free to adapt it as stated in the licence.

It bothers me when ubiquitous parts, such as motors, must be bought. Hobbyists make tiny motors for RC planes etc, but they require fairly specific custom parts. I tried to design similar parts so that they are more easily available.

I decided on a brushless design because it seemed like it would be easier to print, and because after some research it seemed that it is harder to design a reliable brush motor than a reliable brushless one. A lot of my inspiration/information came from this page: flyelectric.ukgateway.net/cdrom.htm, and it would probably be helpful for assembling the printed parts as well.

I'm a little out of my league here so I have no idea if this will work, but it's worth a shot. I don't know how many people want to actually print a motor and spend the time winding and preparing it rather than just going out and buying it, but maybe it could be useful.

For some bizarre reason the entire center has a bunch of non-manifold holes, which I really don't understand (I selected the vertices one at a time and created the faces individually). I suspect this has something to do with the fact that I created the stator by connecting multiple objects together, but I don't know how to fix it. I'd really appreciate if someone could help me out here. I'll post the .blend file as well in case that helps.

This is a work-in-progress (not fabricated/prototyped yet), exploring how to design a CNC/laser cuttable extruder head assembly for Makerbot/CandyFab applications.

- Target material is 0.9mm thick steel/aluminum as provided by ponoko.com/
- Routed channels are 1mm or 2mm wide
- Bolt-holes are 2mm in diameter.

- The pieces are to bolt together, then heater wire wrapped around the indented sides.
- Material is fed from the top; air from the side ports.
- If a magnetic material like steel is chosen for the Upper Plate, air feeds could be magnetically attached.

- Total design height is 70mm to allow for three stages of heater-wire wrap for graduated heating temperatures.
- Removing one or two of the stages would shorten the height by 16mm or 32mm respectively.

- License set to Attribution - Share Alike - Creative Commons. Feel free to adapt and make money off it as long as you share your mods!

Its a gyoza press I made for the competition. Its not much, but its at least something that is printable. Watch out for the overhang on top.

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie

I wanted to run the gyroscope off a motor. So I whipped up this mount made of 4 pieces, plus 2 gears to run the gyro.

i couldnt find the place i his page, so i had to do this

This is a thermal barrier retainer block I designed for my plastruder to replace the stock retainer washer, steel washer & m3 screw stack. I also use this block to mount the plastruder to my z-stage so that's why the block is kind of long. One surface of the block is flush with the back of the plastruder housing and has two M4 threaded holes.

The tin tin rocket just wasnt enough for me! I wanted to be able to add an engine in mine! (some drilling required. I havent tested it on wether or not it will fly but the fins should do the trick!

This is my take on MakerBot's Mechanical Endstop. All the traces are on a single layer, and the silkscreen is optional. It is easy to make by hand.

The output pin is normally low, but goes high when the switch is triggered. The resistors are surface mount, but can be soldered easily by hand.

secures a magnet to a standard-sized bicycle wheel spoke for detecting speed with a hall effect sensor. the form can be easily modified to accept a range of magnet sizes, but is provided to accept a 3/16" x 1/8" disc magnet (locally available in the US at Harbor Freight tools). we welcome derivatives designed to accept magnetic media of different sizes, please post them here on thingiverse to share.

design process: bit.ly/6mtnVE
more info: velosynth.com

This is a printable, grooved version of the 1/4" Linear Bearing used on the cupcake CNC. ABS isn't an ideal bearing material for several reasons, but I think it should be ok for light duty applications if properly lubed (hence the grooves), and you can always print a replacement. Alternatively you could use HDPE or UHMWPE (which melts at about 300F); I've attached a non-grooved version just in case.

Notes:
1) Should print ok, but I haven't tried it.
2) ID as shown is slightly undersized - it should be reamed to get a good fit.

I got sick of trying to use my drill press as a lathe in my attempts to build my extruder, so I threw this together in SolidWorks. I used 1/4" and 3/8" acrylic for most of it. There are three pieces of 3/4" HDPE for slides. It has 12 X 1/4-20 hex nuts, 36" of 1/4-20 threaded rod, two plastic knobs, and the drive assembly from a cordless drill. I left off the tailstock, live center, and cutting tool plate, but those can be easily fabricated. Use it at your own risk. I uploaded some pictures of the finished lathe and my first completely successful part. The lathe isn't the perfect solution, but it get's the job done.

I decided that the timing belt gear in my plastruder was just too unreliable, so I wanted to try out a worm gear drive cog like I'd seen others have good success with. I have a cheap 9x20 lathe and a tap set, but I was missing something to hold the gear blank to the tap while letting it rotate. So I fabbed one.

This isn't a robust thing, but it's good enough, and I've been able to make several small brass worm gears with it.

I don't know about you, but I need more light in my Cupcake #379.
I designed and printed an LED holder in the form of a light ring.
It uses 3 LED's, 3 resistors, and gets it's power from the 5v used for the optical limit switches (which I removed after one day.)

This is a PCB design for 6 leds which can be attached to the extruder nozel head via the 2 threaded bolts. This is a derivative of the printable Makerbot light ring.

The circuit is a simple one, however there is an added function.

This is designed to be wired into the extruder motor connectors 1A and 1B, therfore when the motor runs forward, it lights 3 LEDs (White) When it reverses, it illumiates the Blue LED's.

Check out my video for an example here: youtube.com/watch?v=lRiLqAD1rlk

and in actual use (Pinting PrintruderV2) youtube.com/watch?v=VoPX63fTHiw

Alternativly, use this pcb and add the LED's all the right way wound and have this as a circuit just to illuminate! its like potatoe waffles - lovely and versatile!

The insulator retaining ring on the Makerbot plastruder (Mk3 and Mk4) takes a lot of punishment. If it breaks, you can't print. With these instructions, you can make an emergency replacement that'll keep you going until you can buy / print a replacement.

NOTE: This isn't a precision part. It's a quick hack to get you printing again. Using this as a permanent part isn't recommended. Your best bet is, once your printer is repaired, immediately print a replacement retainer and one or two spares.

This is a cool robot wheel I designed during my lunch period. :) It is scalable, But if You scale it, remember to adjust the axle hole size. I usually make mine at 50% size.

This might actually make a decent flywheel if made of metal.
It was supposed to be a pulley, but made a better wheel.

UPDATE:
I added a wheel with five spokes instead of three. It is also smaller.

This piston has a cylinder head, so it can be powered on the up and down stroke. Another entry for the Makerbot giveaway.

"Illegal" is the name of this modular furniture.
These Element can be used to build shelfs, sideboards, etc..
You need zip ties and 3mm steel bolts to put the modules together.

A cannon!! :) that works. Im not responsible for any injuries or damages...so there is no confusion, yes, i have fired it no problems except the barrel gets full of paper and needs to be cleaned after each shot therefore i recommend gunpowder but i havent tried it.

This is a design for a basic pinhole camera. Further modification will be necessary to function, as explained in the Instructions. This design is loosely based upon the following three resources:

kodak.com/global/en/consumer/education/lessonPlans/pinholeCamera/pinholeCanBox.shtml

matchboxpinhole.com/

mrpinhole.com/

If you have any ideas or comments, be sure to post them, but remember to be nice!

Pinhole Camera Design by Connor Hollenback is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.Permissions beyond the scope of this license may be available at nouseforadventures.blogspot.com/.

This is v2 of my Tesla turbine, major improvements/changes are the use of HDD platters as disks and the addition of ball bearings. Hopefully the Improvements make it viable. I have access to a printer now, so I'll test it soon.

This is a concept alarm clock that I designed to help people wake up in the morning. You aim at the middle of the target with a laser pointer (1mW to 5mW of power) form a distance to make it stop (or you can wait a minute). There's an LCD (green rectangle) at the bottom for time and date. There's also some side lighting (in the transparent tubes) that turns on with the alarm.

Some buttons at the rear are used to set the time and alarm, including a traditional alarm reset button in case the laser system fails (not shown in pictures or file).

This is a first pass at the plastic parts for Squito-style muscle wire actuated robot. It is BIG for a muscle wire bot and I haven't worked out all of the forces yet. Latter versions will probably have lightening holes and may be scaled down.

The pivot group is designed for the Makerbot Cupcake CNC and is entered in the current Make contest. The horizontal pin holes will still need to be drilled.

The rest of the bot can be cut using a small CNC router.

The model is in SketchUp. I plan to export STL files to FreeMill to create the G-code.

This is a first pass done mostly to improve SketchUp skils. Feel free to comment or improve.

A case for the MakerBot watch made out of laser cut 6mm clear acrylic. It can use up to an 18mm standard watch band.

Its a large scale cartesian robot
The primary idea was to build a big 3dprinter which would produce large objects with a 1 m3 max. dimension.

This apparatus provides you the cartesian mechanism for positioning the material of your desire in 3d-space.
It does not include any tool or extruder.

For example you could fix a PU-Foam spitting can, and try printing big pink foam objects like a pink pig or a foamy chair. Or you can try experimenting with milling or putting your favorite extruder on it and see what happens.

It is in some way scalable because by choosing the lenght of the aluminum-beams for the frame and the x-y-carrier you decide how big it is.
I will provide the dimensions for having a bot with a 1m x 1m x 1m work-space.

Some updated thoughts:
- Actually i would not recommend to scale it bigger without using stronger aluminum profiles or even a welded iron frame..
- as proposed in the comments it is probbably smarter to use something like a bike-chain driven drivetrain for the z-stage