This is a template file for the nameplate slot on the new-to-us flat files we got to store our acrylic.

This is a lasercut extruder for a RepRap machine. I'll be posting instructions online soon.

Making sunglasses on the lazzzor is fun. All you need is some acrylic and a design. Here's my take on it. It even has hinges!

An alternative design for the RepRap Darwin Z endstop. It allows the machine to home the z-axis away from the workpiece, so that homing is always a safe operation, regardless of what state the machine is in. More details in my blog: hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/08/alternative-z-endstop.html

A hook with a bearing to suspend a basket of plastic to feed a RepRap machine. Full details in my blog: hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2008/11/sky-hook.html

This is Adrian Bowyer's coat hook.

Initially blogged here: blog.reprap.org/2008/05/economics-n-pl-management-of-household.html
Also printed by nophead here: blog.reprap.org/2008/06/abs-coat-hook.html

What's interesting is that (by Adrian):
- The hook can support more than 10 kg (then I ran out of weights...)
- It cost me about 15 pence [less than 18 ct. in euros]

Development stage: Work in progress

It measures 30 cm or 12 inch diameter. The discs will be 6 cm apart.

This is a filament spool that can be be mounted on the side of the Darwin. The image is an artistic illustration. When I've refined it an laser cut it, I will also post the final SVG that I have used for it.

If you have suggestions, please let me know.

It was made in Inkscape.

The main body *barely* fits in the CupCake build area-- I had to rotate it 45 degrees to squeeze it in.

This bot can be assembled from some pretty common items, standard servos, 6xAA battery pack and an Arduino. (See the second shape pack.) It's not really a "printable robot" in the sense that I'm still requiring pretty complex parts (even making the common "circuit exception" used by the RepRap foundation in their builds), BUT there's no custom machining to do once you print the parts out. Just print 'em, slap on the mail-order parts and you've got a bot.

You'll also need screws and nuts to hold things together, at whatever size works for your area. I'm using 4-40 screws but anything that'll fit a 3-mm diameter hole will do.

I designed this as a component for a piece that I'm not ready to reveal the whole story of yet.

This portion of the project contains an outlet, a dimmer switch, and a servo (and for now: a dirty rubber band). The servo operates the dimmer, which in turn controls the amount of current going through one of the outlet's two sockets. (The other one delivers consistent power to the micro-controller / servo via a wall wart.) This is a really nice way to control an outlet...because in all truth, full source voltage is scary, scary stuff.

Articulated modules for building modular robots. It is the repraped version of the Y1 modules that I have created for my PhD.
iearobotics.com/personal/juan/doctorado/Modulos-Y1/modulos-y1.html
Version 1.0 is the first one. It works and it is 3D printable, but the design should be improved in order to obtain a better printing quality.

UPDATE: 09/Nov/2011
A new version has been released: thingiverse.com/thing:13442

After using the pulley rig I designed here: thingiverse.com/thing:566 for a few weeks I realized that the rubber band was clinging & slipping quite a bit. I tried a few different things as a pulley belt, but nothing worked to my satisfaction. So I redesigned it to use a set of gears instead, which totally eliminated the slippage and greatly improved the accuracy.

One thing to remember though is that while pulleys move wheels in the same direction, with gears the dimmer will turn in the opposite direction of the servo, so be sure to adjust any code you may have written accordingly.

Been moving into a new place, and I keep finding things that don't quite fit. These can all be fixed by fabbing small parts! ABS fabbed pieces have tremendous compressive strength -- with 0.3 infill grids I've tested mine past 180kg with no permanent deformation.

- The 26x19mm spacer holds my closet shelving rails away from the wall, since the tops are screwed into a 3/4" board the previous owner mounted. The centers are sized for a #12 screw, which in my case is a #12x2 driven into the studs.
- The 28x12mm spacer mounts my TV to my entertainment center, fitting around four bolts driven into the VESA mount on the back. It spaces it just enough to run cables (and use up the full length of the spare bolts I had).

More to come as I finish the house.

Personal 3D Printer rev.3 Beta

A powder-based 3D printer.
Build area: 15.25"L x 8.8"W x 6.6"D
Based on a Lexmark z715 inkjet printer.

This is a revision of a project started at University of Washington, under Prof. Mark Ganter, in the Solheim RP Lab.

Credits:
P3P rev.1:
Kory Koyamatsu, Kristina Olson, Erik Roby, Nathaniel Thompson, Tri Truong
P3P rev.2:
Steven Balkus, Miguel Guzman, Kevin Hawkinson, Ben Palmer, Vlad Nesterov
P3P rev.3:
Kevin Hawkinson


3D printing information:
tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/

This is a mounting bracket designed for attaching things to walls. I tried to make it relatively strong and look half decent. The edges could be rounded, the support could go to the middle of the "shelf" rather than the end of it, and the lip at the end could look less awkward, but it should at least be functional.

There are two versions. One has holes in the top and the bottom, as well as another hole in the support so you can actually get to the hole in the bottom with a drill. I'm a little Blender-challenged, especially when it comes to measurements, so I don't know the exact diameter of the holes, but I was aiming for about 3mm. That should be about the size of your standard dry-wall screw. The other version has no holes in case my estimation was totally off, if you want to use another size screw, scale the model up and use the same size screw, or whatever.

I made this bike mount at my good friend's request. The mount is fairly heavy duty. The estimated cost is $0.80 of ABS material at $0.02 per cc. I printed it with a honey comb structure making it strong for vertical compression. As a tip, I recommend coating the mount with epoxy for easy clean up and then paint it with a "Sharpie". Enjoy.

This is a general bicycle handlebar mount for things like phones, GPS units, lights, bicycle computers, lasers, etc. It may need customization based on your specific device. Let me know if you need anything customized.

Features:
- 1 1/4" (32 mm) diameter handlebar hole. Note it will accommodate a wide range of handlebar sizes.
- recessed mounting screw hole
- recessed nut on bottom for 3/8" or 9 mm nut

I was inspired by zignig's Printable Desk Clamp thingiverse.com/thing:683 . I used hex nuts instead of square nuts because hex nuts are more common. All the parts are easily available at hardware stores and hobby shops. The total cost is about $4.50 for this clamp compared to $50 ones. It is used for holding circuit boards at comfortable angles, hobby modeling, and holding stuff. Enjoy.


The picture of all parts does not show two nuts that I had already hammered in but I did not want to take them out. Also it does not show 20mm brass tubing as I already hammered some of them in.

This variation on the Y axis bearing housing allows a 22mm 608Z "sk8er" bearing to be used on the Y axis drive shaft. This means the standard 8mm steel drive rod can be used but without the need to file a flat along its entire length. Alternatively, a threaded rod can be used, but attachment of gears using M8 nuts & washers is left as an exercise to the diligent researcher (I'm looking at you Graeme :).

This is a beaded belt gear for 4.5mm chain that clamps onto a 5mm NEMA17 motor shaft using an ordinary hose clamp. It's designed to use a flat on the motor's shaft, but you can change that in the source files provided to fit just about anything.

After having some difficulties with the Plastruder MK3 which comes with the MakerBot, I decided to try to print a better (i.e. more reliable) extruder with and for my MakerBot.

The design was inspired by the "Thermoplast Extruder Version 2.0" from the RepRap project and by photos I saw of Nophead's "Fast extruder" .

(Update: There's now a 4th part to print: InsulatorRetainer.stl)

An automated controller for home brewing, based on the Sanguino. I didn't design this - I just built it, but thought it would be an interesting addition :)

Both the hardware and software designs are open source. Kits and board schematics can be found at the homepage.

Homepage is brewtroller.com

This is a small piece to mount a neon lamp.
It's a replacement for the original mounting clamps which were way to weak to hold the lamp.

Just for fun, I also produced a little documentation movie for this: "Better Living with MakerBot"
See: youtube.com/watch?v=LBzyZSVK_Gs

Although the size of the clamp is probably very specific to the lamp I mounted, it should be quite simple to adjust the object for your needs. I included the model as OBJ-File (Wavefront), which can be opened with Blender and AOI.

I had a little extra space on some 1/8th inch plywood I cutting for another project, and decided to cut a copy of Travis77's puzzle [ thingiverse.com/thing:1008 ]

Scaled down for 1/8th inch material thickness, it was just too thin, so I decided to double it up, and added some #4 screw holes to hold it together while I glued the material.

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie

This a CNC'ed 2" plywood box. More test than practical.

Now that my MakerBot is on order (Batch #7), I'm trying to think of accessories to add to it. Whatever they end up being, it'd be nice to make them match the MakerBot's construction as much as practical. Since I don't have a laser cutter handy, I thought I'd try a similar style construction using my CNC mill; this is the result.

The Imperial screws are just what I happened to have on hand. I plan to stock up on metric socket-head screws soon; any MakerBot accessories I publish will be metric.

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

Sliding elements slide on perforated angle thingiverse.com/thing:1066, driven by either leadscrew or belt. There are three sizes of the sliding element: 3.5", 2.5" and 1". The part list is for 3.5" size.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+sliding-element

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

Linear rail comes in several lengths: 6", 12", 18", 24" etc. Attached DXF file and part list are for 12" long linear rail.

The rail can be attached to perforated angle, channel or T-slot profile, such as 80/20 Fractional 10 series. A pair of rails and at least a pair of linear bearings thingiverse.com/thing:1075 are needed to make a complete linear stage.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+linear-rail

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

Linear bearings ride on linear rail thingiverse.com/thing:1071, driven by belts or leadscrews. A pair of rails and at least a pair of linear bearings are needed to make a complete linear stage. There are three sizes of the linear bearing: 3.5", 2.5" and 1". The part list is for 3.5" size.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+linear-bearing

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

A pair of shaft mounts with bearings support a threaded rod used as a pulley shaft or a lead screw.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+shaft-mount