This is a design of the RepRap extruder drive that is compatible with the Darwin quickfit clamp system and the Ponoko lasercut kit. It will take either 16mm PTFE or heatsink based heaters. It is designed to be made with no lathing or machine tooling. An opto sensor may or may not be fitted to regulate rotation speed - I found that this was definitely required with an all-metal heater assembly. If you develop software to do that, we'd love to see it!

This is a possibly-printable electric motor. The motor can be operated as a DC motor or a stepper motor, depending on how you set it up. We built the motor by casting plastic and metal parts, but most of the parts can probably be built with a laser cutter or a Reprap/Cupcake/Fab@home type machine. It runs at about 400rpm at a voltage of 6V and a current draw of 7A (yes, seven amps).

You can see a video of the motor in operation at
youtube.com/watch?v=XSAof007cS4

A video of the first prototype, which is easier to make, is at
youtube.com/watch?v=cHML3gVQ-uU

For more info, also check out our paper
Towards cyclic fabrication systems for modular robotics and rapid manufacturing, by M.S. Moses, H. Yamaguchi, and G.S. Chirikjian. Proceedings of Robotics: Science and Systems, June 2009.
custer.lcsr.jhu.edu/Publications#Robotic_Self-Replication

Before you try to make the motor, you should understand what it is and is not.

*It IS* An experimental design that you can build, try out, and hopefully improve so it does something useful for you.

*It IS NOT* An inexpensive alternative to an off-the-shelf motor. If you need a motor you can put in your project, go buy a motor. This motor is very inefficient, produces low output power, and takes a lot of work to build.

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie

16x27 array of 5mm red leds (432 leds), controlled in PWM with arduino and MAX7313 controller on each line, controlled by i2c.


Build-up log: tetalab.org/lionel/
Web simulator: pixels.tetalab.org

The Klann Lego Spider is a LEGO compatible prototype of the Klann linkage (see mechanicalspider.com).

Video clips of the spider are available at:
youtube.com/watch?v=Bl_5wCbvxMU and
youtube.com/watch?v=hz4mflE2foM

Update to v1.1 at:
tinyurl.com/y8lhcr3

The legs for the vehicle were milled from 3/8" plastic sheet stock. All the rest of the components are from LEGO Mindstorms (see tinyurl.com/6nj6w), which we use to introduce first year students to robotic concepts.

The project evolved somewhat during the build, as can be seen in the videos and pictures. The turning video shows a simple timed turn where the vehicle moves forward for five seconds, reverses the direction of the left legs for five seconds, then moves both sides forward again for five seconds. The forward motion video shows a skinny version of the vehicle that had to be widened when turning was added, since the skinny version simply fell over on its side instead of making a turn.

This is an alternative toolhead to allow milling with a RepMan 3d printer.
Feel free to adapt it to other printers like Mendel, Darwin and Makerbot.
It should work fine for milling 3d-objects (Skeinforge) and PCBs (visolate) or for exact drilling (drill holder attachment) and cutting (90° attachment and cutting-disc).

You need a Dremel Flex Shaft Attachment (Model 225) and a Dremel as well as an M5x95mm(or longer) screw or threaded rod for this.

Documentation: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Milling#milling_PCBs
Forum-Thread: bitsfrombytes.com/forum/post/milling-toolhead-o-thingiverse
(I used bitsfrombytes.com/forum/post/3d-model-toolhead-attachment-design-alternative-heads )

Update: I made a Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOt_yXAkMrs) of my first tests of PCB milling using this toolhead. It performed well given that I fitted a way too large milling-bit and did not tighten/block the springs holding the print-surface.
Update: Experimental Skeinforge settings for milling are documented here: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=Milling#milling_in_3D
Video: youtube.com/watch?v=7rdkIjtuiYA

Challenge:
(Details: bitsfrombytes.com/wiki/index.php?title=User:MarcusWolschon/Challenges )
Get 10 small mendel parts or 2 larger ones or your design printed for
adapting this RepMan Dremel milling-toolhead to fit the Mendel.

See:
objects.reprap.org/wiki/Mendel_X-axis
Note that you will probably have to design a new x-carriage-lower_1off or even also a x-carriage-upper_1off due to the poor design of the Mendel x-carriage regarding mounting alternative tools that are wider then 22mm.
5 additional small or 1 large parts if you can do it so extruder and mill can be switched with 4 or less easily accessible screws.

Hey, if youve been following me on the group ive wanted to make a lazor cutter attachment for my makerbot. I finally made one!! It fits a 200 mw laser pointer. Just change up the feed rate and itll cut or burn anything (dark). Enjoy!

Dremel Flex-Shaft + MakerBot + MakerBeam + OpenSCAD = (Micro CNC Mill | Drill Press)

Expect future refinements, but this is the first version that works on my Batch 1 MakerBot.

The Dremel is maybe the most used tool in any hacker-lab, so why not give it the throne it deserves.

Hi There,

I was pretty tired of looking for my makerbot hex wrenches and tweezers, which are the tools that I use the most...

so I decided to create a thing to holder them on the makerbot...

Since the makerbot does not have a great resolution on small holes, I created the part with the tweezers slot and 3 hex wrenches. Other holes can be done with a dremel after printing.

This is a PCB design for 6 leds which can be attached to the extruder nozel head via the 2 threaded bolts. This is a derivative of the printable Makerbot light ring.

The circuit is a simple one, however there is an added function.

This is designed to be wired into the extruder motor connectors 1A and 1B, therfore when the motor runs forward, it lights 3 LEDs (White) When it reverses, it illumiates the Blue LED's.

Check out my video for an example here: youtube.com/watch?v=lRiLqAD1rlk

and in actual use (Pinting PrintruderV2) youtube.com/watch?v=VoPX63fTHiw

Alternativly, use this pcb and add the LED's all the right way wound and have this as a circuit just to illuminate! its like potatoe waffles - lovely and versatile!

This was a project that I have been working on for a few months on an off. The wheels are a little larger than 2 inches ind diameter. The are designed to be used on the Tamiya 3mm shaft gearboxes.

These where the ones that where featured on the Make: website.
blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/04/3d-printable_mecanum_wheel.html

There are two versions of the .STL The one that ended in inches is the one I used for the 3d-print. The other one should be in millimeters. For some reason the file size is different.

The .STl files are large. Download the zip file not the .STL

The human powered internet cafe looks at the issues of renewable power generation and aims to educate users to the energy requirements of surfing the internet.

Users are asked to peddle the exercise bikes in order to turn a dynamo which would in turn power the computers. If users fail to peddle hard enough the computer monitors will begin to flicker encouraging them to peddle harder.

The thing would ideally be placed in public areas where all forms of society could view it and try it out for them selves, thus educating as many people as possible.

A cannon!! :) that works. Im not responsible for any injuries or damages...so there is no confusion, yes, i have fired it no problems except the barrel gets full of paper and needs to be cleaned after each shot therefore i recommend gunpowder but i havent tried it.

This is a concept alarm clock that I designed to help people wake up in the morning. You aim at the middle of the target with a laser pointer (1mW to 5mW of power) form a distance to make it stop (or you can wait a minute). There's an LCD (green rectangle) at the bottom for time and date. There's also some side lighting (in the transparent tubes) that turns on with the alarm.

Some buttons at the rear are used to set the time and alarm, including a traditional alarm reset button in case the laser system fails (not shown in pictures or file).

This is a handle for Cupcake CNC Z-shuft.
Makes it easy to manually raise and lower Z-table.

This is a makerbot-printable dremel based milling machine, and my entry for the make/makerbot contest. I wasn't able to finish printing it before the deadline, so it is untested, and should be regarded as a prototype. After I finish printing, I will release a revised version that will fix any bugs that come up.

The axises move on dovetail slides. When completed, it will have a travel of 11cm on the x axis, 5cm on the y axis, and 10cm on the z axis.

So far, I have printed half of the x axis and part of the y axis. The dovetail slide moves freely with little slack or wobble, even though the print warped. This makes the rest of the machine look very feasible, and I'm confident that it will be able to machine aluminum (shallow cuts, of course) when it's finished.

This is an XY table for a desktop dremel-powered vertical mill. The rest of the assembly isn't completed yet, but I after seeing NickAmes' work ( thingiverse.com/thing:2956 ), I figured I should post this and see if it might be useful to his project. I still plan on finishing this when I get a chance, but collaboration can't hurt.

The basic idea here is that the X and Y stages are the same part and can be assembled into as long a stage as you like. X and Y stages are held together by a pair of M3 all-thread rods which are tightened by nuts on each end to place the stage in compression. each slide has a captured M6 nut which engages an M6 all-thread rod with a handle something like this:
thingiverse.com/thing:2086

The slides are keyed together with 3mm keys (not yet modeled) and fastened by 4-8 M3 SHCS. The whole affair is attached to the table or bench by screws through the Y-axis endcaps. T-nuts (not yet modeled) would have a captive nut so that parts can be secured to the x-stage. As-is it might suffice as an XY table for an existing drill press, if you have one.

NOTE:
1) These may have to be walked through blender before they can be skeinforged.

MakerBot Defender
CodeName - MD-B12

My Makerbot CNC aka "DemonDust" is the Queen ant, and a Queen ant produces the soldiers on the "front line". The Makerbot Defender is designed and built to protect as a soldier, just as in nature a soldier ant protects a well structured colony all working as one unstoppable force.

UPDATED PARTS - 5/10/2010
-Makerbot_Robot_B_LeftElbow_v2
-Makerbot_Robot_B_LeftShoulderBolt_v2
-Makerbot_Robot_B_RightArmJointConnector_v3
-Makerbot_Robot_B_LeftHandJointConnector_v2

These upgraded parts solve loose joint issues and strengthens moving parts

Features :

This version is made from ABS plastic built on a heated platform.

Version #1 tank treads are hard to move, but moveable. Upgrades are being designed and will soon follow

The mounted cannon is for defense purposes only. Launching non-lethal smoke prejectiles to create smoke cover to confuse and slow invaders

Infrared camera is mount on the shoulder helping to watch over the Queen for temperture accuracy

Every soldier in nature is equipped with a strong pair of claws. These arms can move over 180 degrees front to back with claws that can be opened and held in any position. Upgrades are being designed for the next
version of arms/claws


Upgrades :

One of the best pre-designed ideas for the MakerBot Defender,it is upgradeable. The mounted cannon and Infrared camera just slide right out of the main body panel. Making it possible to design anything and replace existing features.


Scale:

Rough measurements
7"(wide) x 8.5"(deep) x 7"(tall)

This is a motor mount design for the Turnigy B2040-4850, in order to fit in a Zagi Wing.

You can make holes and screw down the motor to the mount if you want, but its not really needed, the pressure of the fit already holds it on place.

Btw, you can use this mount desing on a whole bunch of different inrunner motors by scaling it to right size.

Cheers,

Antonio Santos

A small, battery-powered gyroscope.

Update (6/29/10): Here's a video of one in action. Note that I used 4 button cells instead of 2. youtube.com/watch?v=Ov5WVhhIdWo

Update (6/30/10): Added a DXF file for lasercutting. If you use 5mm stock, the result should be about the same. You'll need to drill out the pivot holes, though.

While in Thailand me and my friend came across this somewhat addictive bar game and when coming back,
I didn't have enough money to get my own (well budgeted trip ;). I thought "Oh well.. no worries thou, I have a Makerbot. I'll make my own and with some improvements."

So I decited to create a travel version of the game. Not like the big and bulky one they sell over there but small,
sleek and pocket size. Something you can take with you on travels and stuff.

And also I wanted to design it so that you wouldn't need extra parts to assemble it.
(If you own a makerbot, you can make this in the middle of the desert if needed)


(and for a added bonus. I included one extra set of game pieces that read instead of "Jackpot" but "TheGame")

For this you can either use jmil:s dices that has more realistic corners ( thingiverse.com/thing:925 ) or mine that has sharp corners.

I got bored and had a radioactive rock...so why the heck not? Its got 2 poles for UV lights 'cause its fluorescent (which would be nice if i had fluorescent plastic). It can also hold another object. Not quite sure what though.

These are the printable parts for a filament spindle box.

The housing is build from wooden parts without need for a laser cutter (only rectangular parts, easily available in most hardware stores/home improvement stores).

I wrote down the whole project in detail in my blog post at
pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2010/07/29/chipboard-screws-are-the-new-nuts-and-bolts/

[UPDATE] I slightly changed the design to have a window in the front. I also added detailed drawings for the box itself to this thing (see below).

More details on the new box design at
pleasantsoftware.com/developer/3d/2010/08/14/boxing-round-2/

Well since I fixed my chair with my Makerbot, I decided to fix something else that was bothering me. I lost a tab for my Razer Lycosa keyboard a while ago so I could only have it laying flat, which isn't good for my wrists.

I took the other tab and measured it with my calipers and started designing a part in Sketchup. I got the basic design down and the pegs that stick out I added a small support so it would be printable.

I printed it out and it matches exactly to the other tab except I had to use a Dremel sander bit to make the peg a little smaller since I couldn't print it close enough.

It snaps in place like the other tab and now I can enjoy my keyboard raised!

This is my version of the Owl Wrap (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:364). It is a clever way to store your iPod headphones.

This is a little boat I made out of some foam, and few things I found around the house.

This is a small parts bin I made to help keep organized. It is made out of scrap cardboard that would otherwise be thrown away. Similar parts bins may be found in stores for approximately two or three dollars each.