Ever want to make your own Iron-Man/WarMachine Suit? am making an entire War-Machine Suit. Here is the Faceplate. More to come!

I like SF and it is my first printable model.
A 2040 flying vehicle with all parts in STL.
I draw it in a paper in 1988, 3Dsurfaces in 2011(solidworks) , 3D printable this month and the real object in (or better: on) my desk in 2013?
-17 pieces
-final dim: 379x188x265mm
-model for grabcad replicator2's challenge.
Have fun to print, paint and make more details if you want.

The pan/tilt module without the axes and bearings parts.

A Mermaid Model that is made from a bunch of derivatives

A Merman Model that is made from a bunch of derivatives

This is a Kit that upgrades the Parallax S2 Robot in order to moves the robot's pen up and down.

Printable inserts to fit wall and floor box plates. Starting off with serial/monitor DB connectors. Heavy DB is a clip-in fitted for 4, 6 or 8 port wall plates. Narrow DB is a recessed clip in for 4 or 6 port floor box covers. Both layouts provide flush insertion depth and are intended for solder on connectors. This design requires the insert to be slid over the wire then soldering can be accomplished before clicking the insert into the plate. See instructions for details and links.

The shower head holder in our bathroom broke. I designed a new one that should be sturdier.

Please read the instructions before downloading files!

All the Rostock printers made me want to print some taller files - here’s your chance.

Just for a bit of history on MakerBot Z-axis print heights:

- Cupcake CNC: 100mm
- Thing-O-Matic: 120mm
- Replicator: 150mm
- Replicator 2: 155mm

And to check in on some competitors:

- Printrbot Plus: 203mm
- Ultimaker: 220mm
- Series 1: 230mm

With the swapping of just 6 pieces*, a Replicator 1 can be made into the (Unofficial) Replicator XL - with a Z-axis build area of 250mm. The only pieces needed are 4 new wood panels and 2 smooth rods.

How much bigger is it? The Replicator 1 build volume is 300 cubic inches. The Replicator 2 is 410 cubic inches. (Unofficial) Replicator XL? 500 cubic inches (err...498 I think).

I also figured if I was in there editing files, I might as well make it look a little more like the Replicator 2, so all of the ‘window’ shapes have been changed to reflect the ‘new look.’

Enough talk, let’s get to the photos!

flickr.com/photos/jabella/8129250268/in/photostream

flickr.com/photos/jabella/8129224609/in/photostream/


The smooth rods I used are: mcmaster.com/#6459K112 (8mm x 400mm)

Big thanks to Bruce Wattendorf (of Giant Ultimaker fame) for helping with my meager DXF editing skills. Thanks also to Dan and Jetty for helping after I spent hours messing with broken firmware.

I created a small light attachment, which is battery operated, and fits into the head of the lamp.

If you have an existing printed version of the lamp, you can add this to it, pretty easily. You may need a dremel tool to extract away a little of the plastic, so you can add the switch and mount the little light. This is what I did.

I had some problems printing the Iris Door Box work with those tiny potrusions of plastic acting as guides (they just kept breaking), so I made a derivative with holes and M3 screws and bolts that uses the bottom of the hole as the guide.

Only the box is modified, not the leaves nor the ring. Indeed the box looks just the same from the outside (except the bottom that has extra holes and extra screws :p)

Thank you, countspatula, for making such an awesome yet simple box, I've always wanted to have one!

All the credit to countspatula!

A drag chain fully printable that only requires 2 M3 bolts, and 2 M3 nuts. The rest of the bolts that appear on the picture are optional for holding in place the wires.

"RA"
a DIY 3d Printable Virtual Reality Head mounted display

Fov: 120+ deg
Weight: 1lb 8oz
Cost: $450
Headtracking: yes

video showing the FOV range.
youtu.be/p10V3lca-DY

video of RA in Use.
youtu.be/pujeMSP6dmo

Compatible frame set for hexapod robot with 9G servos.

I was tired of using the crappy original servos on my Losi Mini-LST2. They never last very long and you always have to replace two of them.
My prefered servo is a Hitec HS-82 MG with a Kimbrough servo-saver. But it does not fit...

So I designed a single servo bracket that can be installed easily in my Losi Mini-LST2.

Started out as an Aluminum Mendel and morphed into a bit of this and a bit of that. Mostly a learning exercise. An engineer printed the extruder for me in his commercial 3d printer. Made the Budaschnozzle with some modifications. I had a box of semi-circular half inch Thomson rod bearings given to me that necessitated using half inch rod. The bearings are very sensitive to clamping pressure and I would not use them again if I were starting anew. I used 80/20 stuff for most of the structure since I had a lot of scrap to choose from. No idea if any of this will work yet. I have Ramps 1.4 electronics to hook up to experiment with. That will be another learning exercise since this is my first build!

Some time ago I published thingiverse.com/thing:12478
I was quite proud of my ring designs, and proudly wore one for weeks. . . right up to the point that I flexed my hand just the wrong way and felt the band snap on both sides of my finger. Ever since that time I have been re-designing, printing, wear testing, cycle, rinse, repeat. Now finally I think i have come to a design that is worthy of being published. This ring has a slightly beveled face and thanks to printing in multiple parts is very structurally sound. There is no chance of stress fractures on the sides of the band as it's printed in 2 halves allowing the band to be printed in continous circular layers. The top is beveled as well and has a raised bar in the center that is used to mate to groove on the under side of the ring top face. This is the best Ring design i have compleated in months. Please enjoy it and I look forward to seeing any derivitives that may come out of this design.

I am working on a display of all the Lantern Corp Rings so all those tops are here as well as my Star Trek ring top and a Wolf Ring top.

Extruder for printing with ceramic. Still in development, but we already produced nice results. See pictures for results. Added new photos and info.

the claws of everyones favorite X-men character..
now in extruded plastic form.

print in white to give you that Bone claw look

The like a proper design should be, USB jack is on the back of the Printrbot. I decided to do the same with the power plug so it was easier to connect. This also moved the PSU away from the printer for easier plugging and work on things.

A 3D printable rocket designed to work with the Make: Compressed Air Rocket kit. makeprojects.com/Project/Compressed-Air-Rocket/585/1#.UAxRPzGe5sE

Printed in two pieces from PLA on an Ultimaker, these rocket look great, and might work great... OR MIGHT EXPLODE. One lasted for three successful launches before breaking into two pieces on landing. The other two shattered on launch. Oh, the Humanity!

Photo & Videos: flickr.com/photos/cbonsig/sets/72157630700622384/

Planet Earth is Blue
And there's nothing I can do

If you use different extruders, is a hassle to recalibrate your reprap each time you change the extruder. Therefore I decided to make my hobbet bolts much more precisely and reproducible.

To gain better hobbet bolts, you need the little bolt hobbit and a proxxon micromot 50 (with some adjustment you might also be able to use any other kind of dremel-like tool).

With the bolt hobbit, you can make a hobbet bolt with 32 teeth that are perfectly parallel, sharp and have the same dimensions. Furthermore it is easy to reproduce some identical bolts (that feed the exact same amount of filament per revolution to the hot end) so it is no longer necessary to recalibrate your firmware each time you change the extruder.

This thing is slightly inspired by the KNRLR found here: thingiverse.com/thing:21782 but made much more rigid and handyer to rotate the bolt (can probably be used for mass-production of hobbed bolts :) )

edit 1: Added IGES design file
edit 2: I just made the first >6hour print with the new bolt (it was a print with a large number of retractions - the worst situation for the filament feeding system) and it worked absolutely flawless! Printing speed was up to 70mm/s in this print (40mm/s average).
edit 3: people who print another machine-holder (as found in derivates for example) can now download the standalone lever-only stl file in order to not have to print the proxxon-holder too.

A modular electromagnetic accelerator that actually works...;)

Warning: This project involves the use of a capacitor bank that contains more than enough energy to kill you. Do not attempt to build this unless you know what you are doing !
(There is a real possibility of poking an eye out or qualifying for a Darwin Award if you make a mistake...)

The inspiration to create this came from reading the books "Kristian Birkeland - The First Space Scientist" (available from Springer) and "Zero To Eighty" by Edwin Fitch Northrup.

This is my new 4GB USB Memory ... Android!

This thing is designed around a 4GB Kingston USB Stick cause it is cheap. Maybe others work too, but i've only experience with this one.

My printed parts fitted quite good, but maybe thats just on my machine.
Feedback would be great!

Made with Freecad and Blender.

If you make one, please send me a picture... i love pictures ;)




Portions of this page are modifications based on work created and shared by Google and used according to terms described in the Creative Commons 3.0 Attribution License.

This is a Y-bar-end for the printrbot which has a face to trigger the Y-end-stop.

NOTE: The printed piece is really tight and will likely need some dremeling to fit just right.

This nice thing attaches to your Dremel and lets you make your own M8 knurled bolts for your extruder. Technically speaking it's a "spiked" bolt, not a knurled one, but it's close enough. :) And yes, the name is supercheesy, but I like it anyway.

I made this because the standard Ultimaker knurled bolt doesn't fit the extruder I'm currently designing.

It's modelled in 3dsmax, so no openscad files, sorry :( If anybody wants to make a parametric version be my guest.

A box for the brain machine pcb from Adafruit designed at Tinkercad made on a reprap

A test mini-shelf for tiny, awkwardly shaped trinkets.

Inspired by the wonderfully sci-fi and organic looking Voronoi diagrams, this test shelf layout was generated from Hero-Design's Voronoi Bookshelf Generator, and then hand-converted into 3d printable connectors.

Hero-Design's Generator -
hero-design.com/2012/03/22/voronoi-bookshelf-prototype-experiment-interactive-generative-design/

Wikipedia Article on Voronoi Diagrams -
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voronoi_diagram

Replacement core parts for an Ikea Rigg (hat-stand). Holds the various bars together with screws.