This is a small wooden box.
It's perfect for a small jewelry box for kids.

I built this box to keep my Printrbot Original in, and make it easier to transport.

The PSU is above the back protrusion of the print bed to save space (see pics).

When the lid is up the bed can extend fully forwards, and the lid doubles up as a spool holder.

When closed the box looks very nondescript (to pass uni room inspections). There is a handle on top for easy carrying. The usb cable and power cable can also be stowed in the box.

The box is built of scraps of wood I had already. Hence I've listed as "work in progress" as you would have to redesign it to suit your printer size and construction materials.

The PSU template is not my design but I can't remember where I got it from, sorry original author! I posted here as I struggled to find such a template.

This is a 3D puzzle of a eagle. It is made of 1 mm plywood by using a CO2 Laser Cutter.

more information and other projects you will find under: mydsgn.jtronics.de or jtronics.de/modellbau.html

This is a 3D puzzle of a butterfly. It is made of 1 mm plywood by using a CO2 Laser Cutter.

more information and other projects you will find under: mydsgn.jtronics.de or jtronics.de/modellbau.html

Here you will find all my other projects on thingiverse.com/jtronics/things

designed to fit spanish/gothic style wall sconces with medium base bulb. I made this to fit .030 amber mica shade I cut and formed to integrate with the sconce.

Some time ago I looked for a new design for our bird house for our garden. I found a very nice design and made a new construction by using a CAD program. The bird house is made of 3mm plywood. Now I hope that the birds will love it.

Container-type compost toilet for indoor use. You need an outside compost heap for the actual composting.
See the Humanure Handbook (download for free at humanurehandbook.com/ ) for all the details of humanure composting.

Jigsaw puzzle made from an L-System drawing from the system:
PREMISE : YXF
Rule 1: X=X+FY
Rule 2: Y=X-FF
Angle: 60°
Now, depending on how your Lsystem program evaluates these rules you may or may not end up with the same drawing. But I have confidence in the programmers over at sidefx.com (the make the movie special effects program Houdini that's been instrumental in creating fx for a bajillion movies)

I wanted to hack, so I literally hacked the top off my ToM.

I assume someone must have done this before, but I can't see one in Thingiverse.

There is a plan... ... (hushed tones) I'm going to make the X Carriage run to its full potential
i.e. the belt length between the pulleys - approx. 160mm. and the Y carriage run to the front of the machine approx. 130mm.
This should give me a build platform of 150 X, 120 Y and 120 Z without much trouble.
I'll need to print using PLA so that I don't need all that space heated, but I don't think that will be a problem.

I'm afraid all the people who use this in public will need to put HOT warnings on the exposed parts, but it's not as if they were behind glass before.

For those of you who don't wish to chop the top off your ToM, you can still use this carriage mod to give you 150 x 80 x 120 prints.

A few months ago, my school was getting ready for a theater run of "The Little Shop of Horrors" and needed a tripod that could mount a video camera and be controlled from back stage wirelessly via radio. The whole idea behind the thing was that at the end of the play, when the plant achieved sentience, a camera, hidden inside of the huge plant, would look around at the audience and pick-out one member of the audience to devour.

I was most dismayed to find out that junior year of high school is not the most forgiving time to be trying to bang-out a completed, complicated, reliable device involving software, electronic and mechanical hardware as a one-man development team. A student needs more than 4 hours of sleep every night to be able to at least attempt to hold an intelligent conversation once a day for the duration of the school week.

I did not manage to finish the actual mechanical part of the assembly in time for the run (it's missing the all-important camera mount) but managed to finish all of the gears, mounts, wiring, soldering, OpenScad and Arduino/XBee coding necessary to get the thing moving via remote with stepper acceleration, control smoothing and a wicked-fast 20ms communication delay (by comparison, most first-person shooters operate with a 80-200ms latency). So 1,199 finished lines of code later, I have to admit it's still a work in progress (at least the mechanical camera mounts are) but I'm hoping, at the very least, the XBee and Arduino code involved in the controller and receiver sketches might help out anybody who needs to have super-fast, reliable wireless data communication with error checking and ACK packets using an XBee in API mode.

I'll update this Thingiverse posting with a video of the whole contraption moving under its own power sometime later today once I've had a chance to trim and upload the video.

The latest current source files for the Arduino and XBee powered electronics and the parametric gears can be found at their respective Github repositories here: (for the Arduino code)
github.com/xtremd/XbeeRemoteCameraRig
and here: (for the OpenScad code)
github.com/xtremd/Parametric-Openscad-Tripod-Mount

If anyone has any questions about my code or my tripod, just drop me a quick comment below and I'm sure a bunch of people (including me) will be able to help you out.

-XtremD

I have been working on a makerbot that is controlled by the adafruit motor shield. I made all the parts and wooden pieces by hand using a saw. Once i had all the wooden pieces I put it together and added 2 nema 17 stepper motors for the x and y axis. I used a parallax continous rotation servo for the z axis. The code isbased on some code by Max Livesey and I edited it so it will 3d print instead of ploting. I built the whole thing for around 250 us dollars.
(it is using an arduino mega so analog pins can be used with an extruder board i built)

A light up hand held mirror.


A local production of Beauty & the Beast Jr needed a magic mirror prop for the show.

Files to create legs for a Bunraku style puppet. These will soon be part of a complete bunraku type puppet that I will post.

UPDATE:11/21/11 Changed the knee joint to use less plastic and have better range of motion.

This is a fork
You can Eat with it
You can stab things with it
You can launch it with a device made to launch such objects


This thing has changed the world, can you?

Well, this simple marble track is just easy to cut, even with jig saw.

The 4 holes at the end fit perfect for Hubelino or Duplo bricks.

Have fun!

A while ago I wrote a program to read and solve the Professor version (5x5x5) of the Rubik's cube.
I then decided to build a robot to actually do the reading and the moving...

My first prototype was built in plywood, but then I decided I wanted to build something that was less prone to defects , so I got my first Makerbot, redesigned most of the components, and started printing!

This is an ongoing project, and I still have my plywood components working, waiting to be replaced by their ABS counterparts.

The electronics is based on an Arduino that reads the input from an external PC where the Solver software runs; it then drives the 12 servos that manipulate the Cube.

A slimmed down PCB holder for the Sells / Prusa Mendel. Just enough space for the PCB, plus a little extra on either side.
I have yet to build it, but it should work on paper.

(working title "Daedalus 3D")

One day this might be a my big and mighty 3D Printer :)

I chose the same concept as ultimater and scaled it a bit up. This can be done without laser cutter, but easily with jigsaw.




first i decided to build a reprap mendel. but printing all the parts and assemble the 500screws also take a lot of time. and i don't like the design of reprap. it doesent look very aesthetic in my optinion.

so i considered to make my own design i could made within a few hours that is stable and covers the power supply boards and cables. the wooden pieces were precut by the local store. the rest was done with a jigsaw and a portable screwdriver. for material i chose beech multiplex and i broght them precut in 8 pieces:

2x 32*46 (sides)
1x 46*44 (back)
3x 30*44 (bottom mittle and top)
1x 9*44 (front-top)
1x 12*44 (front-bottom)

> about 1 sqm material, beech multiplex (about 25eur)

the parts for the building surface are made of waste from the cut-outs of the other parts. the whole box was build in 3 hours.

i dont know the effective build volume yet, but it could be up to 30l*20w*20h cm i think. btw this was another reason for designing my own case: making bigger things. tomorrow i will get the rods :)

electornics: gen7 with opto endstops / pololu stepper drivers/ usb breakout board / nema 17 steppers

This is the frame and candlelift for a raw hide lantern used by LARPers and Reenactors. Intended material is wood.

The included OpenSCAD script allows for parametrized construction of the necessary parts, just change the constants in the top part to your liking.

This instance is 25cm high and 20cm wide, and intended for the standard european tea light candle.

I will modify this thing after seein how well it works in practice, most probably with some nice handle for the candle lift. You might want to add a handle to the top part so that you can carry or hang the lamp.

Hanging file foldes trolley, folded when not in use, will be reflected as a decorative accent to hang on the wall.It´s a prototype made in the LABoral FabLab Gijon, Spain.
Carrito para soporte de carpetas de archivos de tipo colgante. Es un prototipo realizado en el FabLab de LABoral en Gijón.

Yet another extruder design, but this one is designed to be built with simple tools for tightfisted repstrappers like me, who want to build it themselves, not just buy it. It's about the journey...

You know how it is; you're building your RepStrap and there's very few ways of building the extruder; you have to buy parts that you can't re-use when you print a Mendel, or use a compromised design in the knowledge a new extruder is about the first thing you're going to have to print before your lash-up breaks - if it works at all! And because the repstrap you're building has limited axes, the chunky thing you've made out of tree trunks limits your build size to 10mm x 10mm x 10mm cubes. Probably. So inspired a bit by seeing BodgeItQuick's version thingiverse.com/derivative:4878, I designed a simpler version of KurtCircuit's Sliced Wade's Geared Nema 17 Extruder thingiverse.com/thing:5548, which is itself based on the now legendary Wade's Geared Nema 17 Extruder by Wade thingiverse.com/thing:1794. KurtCircuit's version was designed to be laser cut, with minimal drilling. Mine is designed so it's ALL pretty much drilling.

This version is built from 5 layers of 9mm MDF, ply or pretty much anything that you can machine. Depending on the depth of your bearings, you could use thinner wood eg 6mm. I've chosen MDF, and I'm planning on building this thing this week, but thought I'd share it with you lot in case I've overlooked something. It still needs the gears, but I am going to canabalise an old inkjet printer, and hope I can get something resembling the right size cogs out of it. Otherwise it's off to the bay of fleas to, er, "help support the community of independent reprap manufacturers". Or something. I have a set of taps and dies to make the hobbed bolt too.

I also expect to run this with a Bowden cable reprap.org/wiki/Erik%27s_Bowden_Extruder. I know they have their problems, but I'm hoping it's close enough to a Wade's that it will work okay, and built well enough and strong enough that it will survive for a while. It's a bit too chunky and print area limiting to mount on the Z-axis of my developing repstrap, a mrkim's 1X2 thingiverse.com/thing:5773. Also, it doesn't use springs to apply pressure to the idler, just captive nut/bolt. I'm not sure how well this will work, but didn't want it to be overcomplimicated.

Update 3rd May 2011
I have built this up now, and have hobbed the bolt etc. Seems to have good torque and grip on 3mm threaded rod. I'll have to wait for my electronics board and some 3mm filament to test it working. On to the hot end...

I needed a bit bigger wine rack so I designed this little 10 or 11 bottle wine rack which does the job nicely. I made it out of 3mm MDF, but it would look better in a nicer material.

I'll put up some better pics once I make a new one under the laser cutter group on sharemake.com .

If you make one please post a pic and a comment. I would love to see one in Perspex!

This is a base for a bicycle light

This is a base for a bicycle light

These are my new thick sheet parts for RepRap Mendel. I was inspired by the mounting plate for the TechZone boards (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2174). I used a modified version of this for my mother board and extruder. And then made a board for my steppers. I have also included my modified froglet that is simpler for cutting out with saws.

Be sure to check out pictures and more information about my Mendel @ reprapbreeding.blogspot.com/

This is a logicly working model of a human hip replacement.
An example for the idea of using repraps in medical applications.

And abit of fun too....

Enjoy walking!

The human powered internet cafe looks at the issues of renewable power generation and aims to educate users to the energy requirements of surfing the internet.

Users are asked to peddle the exercise bikes in order to turn a dynamo which would in turn power the computers. If users fail to peddle hard enough the computer monitors will begin to flicker encouraging them to peddle harder.

The thing would ideally be placed in public areas where all forms of society could view it and try it out for them selves, thus educating as many people as possible.

The human powered internet cafe looks at the issues of renewable power generation and aims to educate users to the energy requirements of surfing the internet.

Users are asked to peddle the exercise bikes in order to turn a dynamo which would in turn power the computers. If users fail to peddle hard enough the computer monitors will begin to flicker encouraging them to peddle harder.

The thing would ideally be placed in public areas where all forms of society could view it and try it out for them selves, thus educating as many people as possible.

This template defines where the holes get drilled on a simplified Mendel deposition bed. It is designed to be used with the orher simplified components: Y feet, Y belt clamps and skinny Y motor mount.

These are SVGs for two guitar bodies based on the Gibson Explorer and the Gibson Flying-V. The original use was as a Scratch/PicoBoard controller.