This hand pump is located at the Wilson Montessori school Wonderground SPARK park in Houston wilsonspark.org/ It gives the kids a safe way to get water to play with, and demonstrates James Watt's straight line linkage.

The Cam-Locks on the Manfrotto tripod model 728B are prone to cracking due to a thin wall thickness. The body of the cam-lock sees a tremendous amount of stress which over time leads to a catastrophic failure (hopefully not when you have a $2000 DSLR mounted on it). In my opinion, a high-end tripod shouldn't have a $0.25 molded part that is prone to cracking and costs $15ea to replace.

The model I generated has a wall thickness of almost 4mm at its thinnest compared to the factory's 2mm. I haven't put it through temperature cycling and aging, but I am confident it will hold up better than the original.

I built this box to keep my Printrbot Original in, and make it easier to transport.

The PSU is above the back protrusion of the print bed to save space (see pics).

When the lid is up the bed can extend fully forwards, and the lid doubles up as a spool holder.

When closed the box looks very nondescript (to pass uni room inspections). There is a handle on top for easy carrying. The usb cable and power cable can also be stowed in the box.

The box is built of scraps of wood I had already. Hence I've listed as "work in progress" as you would have to redesign it to suit your printer size and construction materials.

The PSU template is not my design but I can't remember where I got it from, sorry original author! I posted here as I struggled to find such a template.

I really like the Despicable Me minions and I rellly dug dbcarelli's model (thing:28894)
I had a few issues with printing though.
Attached here is a front and back plate to glue together.

This is a project I am working on for my furniture design class. I am inspired in this case by Scandinavian design. The seat portion will be made of vacuum bagged maple ply wood and the legs will be made from walnut to contrast the colour of the maple. The padding is high density foam with a fabric upholstery. The head rest hangs with a weighted rod to counter balance the cushion and is secured through the chair via cut out.

A Fabrication Laboratory singular person high table.
Using no glue or any other joining methods other than slot and finger joins.

It is 900mm high and the top table surface is 700 x 700mm

It's made to be routed out on a CNC router out of a 2440x1220 sheet of 18mm ply.
I adjusted tolerances for the ply I had which was about 18.6mm birch ply.

Stabile Vogelrolle für 626 Kugellager.
Das Kugellager wird einfach eingpresst.

Ultimately, all I need out of a phone case it to keep the camera lens from being scratched up. This happens because the phone sits directly on a table, floor, etc. and the plastic lens gets banged up.
So, this glues onto the back of the phone and raises the lens off the table. Problem solved. Expensive case not needed.

This should be 1" in diameter when printed.

This is a printable replacement for the Roomba 5xx vacuum cleaner robot.

If this component breaks prepare your printer instead of your wallet :)

Make your own Bottle Lamp from recycled bottles. They add a wonderful touch to your decor and make great gifts.

Started out as an Aluminum Mendel and morphed into a bit of this and a bit of that. Mostly a learning exercise. An engineer printed the extruder for me in his commercial 3d printer. Made the Budaschnozzle with some modifications. I had a box of semi-circular half inch Thomson rod bearings given to me that necessitated using half inch rod. The bearings are very sensitive to clamping pressure and I would not use them again if I were starting anew. I used 80/20 stuff for most of the structure since I had a lot of scrap to choose from. No idea if any of this will work yet. I have Ramps 1.4 electronics to hook up to experiment with. That will be another learning exercise since this is my first build!

I wanted to build an entirely laser-cut Derby Car. You can use it for the Nerdy Derby, or whatever miniature-derby car race you happen to be involved in.

You can check out my blog posts for a bit more info:

rasterweb.net/raster/2012/08/23/nerdy-derby/

rasterweb.net/raster/2012/08/29/nerdy-derby-poundin-sand/

rasterweb.net/raster/2012/09/04/poundin-sand-complete/

Thingiverse has enough toy boats now, so I designed these segments for a 3D-printable ama/outrigger that could actually be used for hull(s) as part of a wee catamaraft or an outrigger canoe. (Starting with a beautiful excited ms-paint concept sketch that preceded a couple days of thought and a night of CAD :)

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ama_%28sailing%29
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Outrigger_canoe
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catamaran

STL and STEP files are provided of original blanks and my 3x2/4x2 model, so that hopefully you can adjust this design to whatever size you want and fittings you have available. A SolidWorks eDrawings file is also available to get a quick look at my suggested assembly. Actual rope lashings are not shown, but I hope you can figure out something as simple as cris-crossing a rope to lash 2 beams together, since representing it in a CAD drawing is tedious. Not all the nails are in this diagram either due to defining mates for either end of the assembly being a pain (I've learned to use octagonal holes outside the X-Y plane instead of circular, for ease of printing).

My current pre-holed versions of these models are adjusted so they should fit nicely with 6ft-long beams of 2x3" or 2x4" wood cut to standard North American softwood lumber dimensions:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumber#Dimensional_lumber
The design shows 6ft 2x3's in the sides holding the outriggers straight, but this could be achieved with shorter scrap lengths by staggering them along either side. A few 1ft-long 2x4's are shown cut to a roughly appropriate shape, but longer beams would be better, and the lateral beams (aka) are 5ft lengths of 2x4" with a notch on one flat side near either end to aid holding position to lashing points.
The nails shown are some 3mm by 45mm aluminium roofing nails that I've just got hold of (if you're going to use metal fasteners at sea, high-grade stainless steel, admiralty brass or aluminium is a must), and there are holes between each designed section that could be used for 6x25mm dowels.

Not shown in pictures yet is a hole that I added across each bow, which could have rope tied through it for rigging or carrying. The two holes shown at the back could be used for a pivot-and-pin adjustable rudder, so that it can be pulled up when launching/beaching and dropped&pinned into place during strong winds.

I might add some more part designs later to enable a very small sail to be rigged easily; when I have time of course, there are so many other fun and useful projects that I could try working on.

Bonus points if you can build one with a sail, solar panel, battery, Arduino GPS Shield, sensors and actuators, and have it circumnavigate the globe autononmously. Zero-fuel automated freight is one goal that I hope we can aim to develop towards (and past :)

A stand for Cubic Print's excellent filament spool ( thingiverse.com/thing:12744 ).

I used byteborg's remix ( thingiverse.com/thing:16340 ) of the center to save some time but it doesn't matter either way.

You'll need to print the parts from the above Thingiverse listings along with the part on this listing and some get some extra hardware to complete this project. See instructions below for what you need to do.

This is the part which connect the wheels under the wardrobe, see picture 13 at ikeafans.com/forums/ikea-instructions/21177-bardu-storage-instructions-annotated.html

Hanno had one of those broken, and Ikea said they can't provide a replacement.
So Hanno had the good idea to request help on reprap forums : "http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?95,141030"

It turned out to be a nice application for a 3d printer.
Why buy a whole new wardrobe when you can repair it for virtually no cost with a reprap ?

This is a device used for testing middle school students' structures. It is an improvement on putting a structure across two sawhorses and hanging weights from the structure!

I've used it for "Jinx Wood" bridge structures as well as sheet metal structures.

Check out my TeacherHann YouTube Channel - youtube.com/teacherhann - for videos of my students projects being tested to destruction!

Kudos to my colleague, fellow middle school Design and Technology teacher Gord McGill for allowing me to replicate his idea!

Little is known about the "Unofficial Aperture Science Human Relations And Comfort Group", but it seems to be a group focused on the well-being of human test subjects.

Digging in the archives have unveiled the thing I now share with you. "Waste Disposal Unit Accessory A", or for the humans amongst us, "Toilet Paper Roll Holder".

Perhaps there's more parts to be found?

This chair is a derivative of Enzo Mari's original Sedia design. This project was created as part of a MDes that looks at open design and the creation of derivative objects.

See: nick-graham.posterous.com

In it's current state the design has a few details that I feel need to be resolved. I have left them untouched to see how this community develops the design. So please feel free to send me photos of your own versions and any links to work derived from this design.

Enjoy.

This clip attaches a fan to your stepper motor, assuming your fan is 15mm wide (I used a 50mm fan for this) and you're using a typical mendel stepper motor. I've attached the Inventor files in case you want to make modifications.

I know there are metal versions out there, but lacking the tools to make them, I've made this.

Feet to keep a box fan from tipping over. This probably won't fit your fan, unless your fan is ~104mm wide at the widest and has a ~90mm inside metal section. In case it doesn't, I've attached the AutoDesk Inventor file for you to adjust.

Pull the string and watch your Whirligig fly across the room. Print 2 handles and pass back and forth with a friend. Tilt at 45 degrees in the direction you want it to fly.

To launch, place the whirligig on the handle and wind the string. Be sure to wind clockwise when viewed from the top of the whirligig/handle.

Also comes with a stick so you can launch with your hands, if you prefer that method. Place the whirligig on the end of the stick and hold the stick between your hands with your hands flat. Quickly push your right hand forward. The whirligig will detatch from the stick and fly (you don't want the stick to stay in; the extra weight will cause it to not fly as far).

Stick launched version flies 20 ft (6 m).

It's a shield.
Print one then go save the world.

The Infinity Garden is my personal version/derivation of the Kontinuum Garden designed by the Rasmussen brothers of Copenhagen, Denmark.

You can read more about their awesome project, or help fund them at this address: indiegogo.com/Kontinuumgarden

Personally, I thought their design could use a few tweaks, so I created this Thing as a Proof-of-Concept, and way to share my thoughts with them. I don't mean to steal any of their thunder, and welcome them to utilize any and all of my ideas shown here!

The biggest improvement I have to offer is that everything in my design can be printed on a Makerbot Cupcake, Thing-O-Matic, or Replicator, thus encouraging maximum availability.

My design was made in SolidWorks, and I've included a .zip file containing all of my original files, assemblies, renderings, etc. Feel free to experiment, modify, and create a neat Thing out of this!

Again, this is a PROOF-OF-CONCEPT only, so I didn't check out dowel sizes at the hardware store, or figure out many of the minute details. So tweaking will be in order before anyone goes off printing this substantially print-intensive beast!

The HelioWatcher is a Solar Tracking and Analytics Platform.

Watch a video of the HelioWatcher in action, here:
youtube.com/watch?v=dGb2fmC4mDg

These are mechanical design files for the project. They include electronics part covers, brackets for moving a solar panel using NEMA17 stepper motors, and brackets for holding a quadrature of LEDS to the solar panel.

Created by Jeremy Blum & Jason Wright.

Codes, Schematics, etc are available on GitHub ( github.com/sciguy14/HelioWatcher ), and more info can be found at heliowatcher.com

I found an antique Hermes Baby typewriter in a shop. It was in working order but way too expensive, so I thought, "why not just print one?" I have a MakerBot, and I can print anything!

So I scanned the typewriter into an STL file, then used some CAD magic to split it into individual STL's ready for printing.

The finished product works wonderfully. I've made some modifications to reduce the depth of the keys and reduce the chance of jamming it.

This is a stepper stool I made for my furniture lab at school. I made the top and base from Ash and the uprights are Mahogany. I mainly used a table saw and router. It has a semigloss clear coat.
I thought it would be fun to print them out and see it as a miniature or a study for a client.

Its an adjustable variation of the Heavy Duty printable filament holder. I was preturbed at close the filament spool had to be to fitting exactly on the hooks, any smaller or larger than the small or large settings made it impossible to put a medium sized spool of PLA (PLA is VERY springy and doesn't like taking on new shapes) on it, I liked the design, but thought it could use a rework.

We needed a towel hanger for 4 towels in our bathroom. Existing towel hangers didn't match what we needed, so I designed one myself.

The hanger consists of 'clamps' that can be attached to the wall. They hold round metal bars that I scavenged from an old towel rack we had.

This was my first experiment in making a larger real-world object that would need to pass the test of my family. Up to now, it is still going strong :-)

One blank robot -- Designs for a simple 80's style robot. Currently setup to cut with a band saw and drill press - but easily changed in Inkscape.

Parts -
- Plywood body
- 5 servo motors (2 are continuous)
- Arduino 1
- Batteries
- A little servo board

Thanks for looking!!

This is a frame for a quadrocopter made out of 2mm birch plywood. It is designed for manufacturing using a 3-axis CNC mill or an Laser-Cutter.
The frame was designed in XMAS 2010 and has successfully tested by over 20 builders during the last year.

A full description of the project can be found here:
flugwiese.de/index.php/projekte/41-schaummodelle/112-murkelcopter
(unfortuneately all in German, but a lot more pictures and links to english pages)

Why is it called the "Murkelcopter" ? Well, the name was given to it by my daughter when she saw the first prototype of the frame