A Chair with a bit of a back story.

In the interest of putting off our real work around oomlout we set ourselves a simple challenge, make a chair. What ensued a day (well we're a bit disappointed as it took closer to half a day but we digress) where we went from figuring out what size a chair should be through computer drawings, cnc cutting and finally assembly.

(shameless plug)
If you'd like all the details they can be found on our blog:
oomlout.com/blog/

A design for an USB tiny ISP kit, sold by Adafruit Industries. This thing replaces the supplied black enclosure.

An eight-legged big spider robot.

The design goal was to create a legged robot that is large enough to walk regular stairs and strong enough to lift simple loads. It also had to be simple enough to use regular RC-srevos and could be cut with my minimal CNC machine.

youtube.com/watch?v=gNXuzhop-u8

youtube.com/watch?v=mSzAuPa47WA

The build process is documented here:

roboternetz.de/phpBB2/zeigebeitrag.php?t=39810&highlight=

This is a work-in-progress (not fabricated/prototyped yet), exploring how to design a CNC/laser cuttable extruder head assembly for Makerbot/CandyFab applications.

- Target material is 0.9mm thick steel/aluminum as provided by ponoko.com/
- Routed channels are 1mm or 2mm wide
- Bolt-holes are 2mm in diameter.

- The pieces are to bolt together, then heater wire wrapped around the indented sides.
- Material is fed from the top; air from the side ports.
- If a magnetic material like steel is chosen for the Upper Plate, air feeds could be magnetically attached.

- Total design height is 70mm to allow for three stages of heater-wire wrap for graduated heating temperatures.
- Removing one or two of the stages would shorten the height by 16mm or 32mm respectively.

- License set to Attribution - Share Alike - Creative Commons. Feel free to adapt and make money off it as long as you share your mods!

If you are blind and want to know what the size is of the coin you are holding in your hand, this is one way to do it. You slide the coin from the bottom to the top until it stops. If you feel at the side, it will tell you the value of the coin. Works with US coins ($0.01 to $1.00).

This is only a rough draft. Its just a prototype to show what can be done with 3d modelling, its not designed for the field.

This gauge measures the roundness of a corner of a part. This is useful when trying to reverse engineer the dimensions of a part.

here's a flickr set for this bot
flickr.com/photos/sixmilliondollardan/sets/72157616240288122/

the zip file is a bunch of solidworks files. SW2006 i think. but i can't remember exactly. i will try to find my parts spreadsheet and toss that up as well.

Spring 2008.
I designed and built a simple torso for a Go playing(manipulation driven, not strategy) robot for Prof Rod Brooks at MIT CSAIL. Postdoc Eduardo Torres-Jara works on the motor drivers, control, and hand design. Josh Kargas did some of the electronics mounting and routing.

Robot has 6 Series Elastic Actuator degrees of freedom. But waist is locked out and shoulder joints have the spring shorted out.

DOFS:
waist yaw
shoulder x 2
elbow x 2
wrist vertical axis x 1
wrist rotation axis x 1
neck pitch x 1
head tilt x 1
head pan x 1

yes analog sensors. potentiometers are awesome.

A modified version of the calling card. I don't have a laser cutter, or delicate hands, but I do have a 48" x 48" CNC router! I scaled the pattern up to about 7.5" tall, modified the shape to be a square instead of a business card, and made a few small tweaks to the gears so they would cut nicely with a 1/8" endmill out of MDF.

No finish or fasteners besides glue. Just a little composite chunk of geary goodness.

This is a set of simple T-Track clamps for a CNC router (could be useful for drill presses, table saws, or anything else with a t-track clamp system).

They are made out of MDF, which is surprisingly strong, resilient, practically free, non-marring and the best part: If you plow a $75 carbide bit into it at 150IPM, the clamp gets destroyed instead of your bit! Why let $10 metal clamps destroy your expensive bits?

Designed to work with T-Track clamps systems like this one from Rockler: rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21276

They come on sale pretty regularly, so keep your eyes open. T-Track is a "standard" clamping system, so other manufacturers may offer compatible track, bolts and knobs.

The hole in the middle is for hanging on hooks! The attached DXF will make three clamps, one small, one medium, one large.

Hi all,

I thought that SketchUp users may appreciate a plugin that makes the exporting of 3D models to 2D vector graphics a bit easier. The plugin (ruby scripts) allows the user to select SketchUp faces and export the oulines of these faces to a Scalable Vector Graphics (SVG) file.

The plugin was developed to help with constructing designs for laser cutting, but I know of people who use it for CNC routing as well.

This latest version of the plugin hasn't been tested with any laser cutting yet (I'm working on some designs at the moment), but I know how Thingiverse users like to be on the bleeding edge ;-P

I stumbled across this site in my search for things to make on my sherline cnc mill. Most of the projects are geared towards people either having/having access to a laser cutter.

This is just a cnc version of the LED badge.

Howdy. I know you all yearn to wear something sweet, metal, and culled from the oceanic depths of the oilpunk masterpiece Bioshock. This is your brass opportunity as I've converted its officially kickass logo into a 3d file for which to use, abuse, and hold up pants. It's a belt buckle. The versions I've done are in bronze from a cnc cut wax model (carved with a 1/8in 15deg inc taper profile tool) and a Zcorp 3dprint. It's pretty fine on the detail end of things so you might want to scale up if you're gonna go for a FDM.

I also have to thank the lovely and talented Meredeth Wrinkle of TechShop fame for photographing the Zcorp version of this project and being an essential supporter. I couldn't be holding this lovely little trinket without her constant support.

I made this in blender and I was wondering if anyone could throw this into a 3d printer for me and then send me pictures of the result. I'm VERY curious about what the outcome will be.

my email is jontap15@gmail.com

I made this file because i LOVE "The Pirate Bay."

If you have not heard of "The Bay", it is a bittorrent website where you can download almost any movie, song, program, etc...

This is The Bay's logo.

IF YOU PRINT THIS, PLEASE POST THE PHOTOS!!! I WOULD LIKE TO SEE THE OUTCOME!

AND I WOULD ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOU IF YOU WERE TO VIDEOTAPE THE MAKING PROCESS AND UPLOAD THAT TO YOU TUBE

I've been seeing the cable chains for reprap and cupcake, and thought I would share my mill-able file.

Cable chain for 3d milling, one link complete.

Here is a simple 3D puzzle. My grandpa made me one out of wood a while back, now I cnc'ed one out of plastic. You don't really need a CNC machine to do this; you can use a bandsaw, scroll saw, small coping saw, drill etc. The design of the pieces are simple.

This a CNC'ed 2" plywood box. More test than practical.

Now that my MakerBot is on order (Batch #7), I'm trying to think of accessories to add to it. Whatever they end up being, it'd be nice to make them match the MakerBot's construction as much as practical. Since I don't have a laser cutter handy, I thought I'd try a similar style construction using my CNC mill; this is the result.

The Imperial screws are just what I happened to have on hand. I plan to stock up on metric socket-head screws soon; any MakerBot accessories I publish will be metric.

This is a thermal barrier retainer block I designed for my plastruder to replace the stock retainer washer, steel washer & m3 screw stack. I also use this block to mount the plastruder to my z-stage so that's why the block is kind of long. One surface of the block is flush with the back of the plastruder housing and has two M4 threaded holes.

I am in the process of making a Guitar type Dulcimer. I guess you could make it a Renaissance Guitar also. I have the started working on the front and hope to finish the rest by the end of December. The front has Mirrored "Horn of Odin" sound holes and will in the future have Laser Cut Celtic knotwork.

This is a project I've been needing for a long time. When I use my CNC router table I would just layout my cutting tools. Most of the time they would roll around or fall on the floor. With the tool holder I place all of my tools, collets, and I can place the tools I need in the order I will need them in. This is the first step. The second step is to make an arm and attach it to the computer stand down tube.

Using 3 pieces of acrylic, 1 6inch by 6 inch board and 25 to 30 220ohm resistors i made this heater plate. you can make it too! -

i soldered one end of the resistors to the copper board, applied a thin layer of tape to the area across that was not soldered, and then soldered the other end to a wire . the red wire was positive, the copper plate was negative, i then soldered the copper board with a black wire, and then taped several times over the copper side with the resistors several times to allow heat to stay in. using the resistor values is ok, a method that uses 330ohms is used to keep telescopes from fogging at night. the idea is to provide enough energy in heat that can be dissipated safely. the soldered end of the resistor transfers heat to the copper board. the copper acts as a heat spreader, and the pcb acts as a good stick layer for thermal plastic. I also have a video here:
youtube.com/watch?v=pDEkp3ym1TE

Safety is job #1, quality is also job #1, as is innovation.

Sometimes you might be working on a project and need a way of releasing something heavy without the risk of it landing on you. This self-locking release latch can be attached to carabiners on both ends and released by pulling on a string or wire through the middle hole. If the material being held is the right size the latch will lock shut without a spring.
Due to the geometry the force needed to release the latch is pretty much independent of the load being held, this prevents the latch from jamming.

It was inspired by the sea catch release latch and Vise-Grips.

Always wear your safety glasses. Do not use for large loads without checking the material properties and calculating the maximum load. Always design with a reasonable factor of safety. Don't be dumb, be safe.



youtube.com/watch?v=oQEopLOSnLg

Regular hex keys are annoying because they are easy to lose and if you have a large number of fasteners to insert or remove, your hands can quickly become sore.

The Wiha hex drivers are a great alternative to hex keys that are worth the money if you are constantly working with socket head screws.

This tool holder fits both metric and imperial Wiha series 263 hex drivers.


Metric Set
Part # Size
26307 0.71mm
26309 0.89mm
26313 1.27mm
26315 1.5mm
26320 2.0mm
26325 2.5mm
26330 3.0mm
26340 4.0mm



Imperial Set
Part # Size
26307 0.028"
26309 0.035"
26313 0.050"
26316 1/16"
26320 5/64"
26323 3/32"
26327 7/64"
26331 1/8"


Requires four (2 packages) 3/16" rare earth magnets, RadioShack part #64-1895.

In honor of the end of David Tennant's Doctor, I decided to model a small version of the Tardis. The Original model was much bigger, but in order to save space and plastic I scaled it down, so some of the detail has been lost. It is very rough right now, so I'd love it if anyone wants to enhance it let me know, or link to this so I can see your version! I used Autodesk inventor to do the modelling.

UPDATE: I added tardis_scaled.stl which is a little larger, giving it some better definition and I also hollowed it out so the print didnt use so much plastic.

UPDATE: Makerbot now sells blue plastic, if anyone prints this in blue, please post!

Based on an idea I got from MakerBlock, I decided to create a Dalek from the 2005 series. I've used drawings from various groups to create it, so it should be to scale. However, I haven't quite worked out how to attach the eye, plunger, and gun yet, so that will hopefully be in a posted update soon. I could use any suggestions on attaching them!

Thanks

This is a breakout board for the L293D motor driver chip. It is single sided, and therefore very easy to make. If you don't have EAGLE, you can download the PDF version of the layout.

UPDATE:

I've uploaded gcode for milling the pcb. If the settings aren't optimal for your machine, it should be fairly easy to modify the files.

The Klann Lego Spider is a LEGO compatible prototype of the Klann linkage (see mechanicalspider.com).

Video clips of the spider are available at:
youtube.com/watch?v=Bl_5wCbvxMU and
youtube.com/watch?v=hz4mflE2foM

Update to v1.1 at:
tinyurl.com/y8lhcr3

The legs for the vehicle were milled from 3/8" plastic sheet stock. All the rest of the components are from LEGO Mindstorms (see tinyurl.com/6nj6w), which we use to introduce first year students to robotic concepts.

The project evolved somewhat during the build, as can be seen in the videos and pictures. The turning video shows a simple timed turn where the vehicle moves forward for five seconds, reverses the direction of the left legs for five seconds, then moves both sides forward again for five seconds. The forward motion video shows a skinny version of the vehicle that had to be widened when turning was added, since the skinny version simply fell over on its side instead of making a turn.