A marionette for the little ones.

An experiment to see how 3d printing can help with creating puppets. With different heads, this can easily be modified into different animals.

mh

If you constantly tweak the z stop on your printrbot, this dial will keep you from needing a screwdriver and help you keep track of your changes.

Just an other filament holder to be mounted on top of Prusa/Mendel. Though quite light still can sustain 2.3Kg bobbin. Construction is detachable from the printer and equiped with optional slit for filamnet and bearings in the bobbin axis.
Designed for bobbins with 30-31mm center openings diameter. Bobbin of overall size 132mm wide up to diameter 230mm can be fitted in the holder.

This hand pump is located at the Wilson Montessori school Wonderground SPARK park in Houston wilsonspark.org/ It gives the kids a safe way to get water to play with, and demonstrates James Watt's straight line linkage.

UPDATE: Use the filment guide found at thingiverse.com/thing:64302 with this spool holder for the ultimate in Filament Management and Control Nirvana!

I searched thingverse for a way to mount a spool on the frame of my Mendel Max MM151 3d printer from 3dbotic.com but could not find one, so I created this mount. It is very inexpensive to make, very quick to make, and can accomodate different thicknesses of spools.

Parametric closet bar holder that you can plug into the side of your Ikea closet.

Note: chances are small that you have collected the same type of trash as I have got, so the presented thing might be only useful as an initial idea of your own spool holder design to enrich thingiverse with your own idea, in addition to hundreds of other spool holder designs available there.

At least once a month my chief is very unhappy. He arrives for about a week to our office to interchange the ideas and resolve the issues, and he is really upset if a whiteboard marker doesn't give him enough color to express his visions on a whiteboard. Sometimes I throw out those bad markers, but not this time, when I've got a background problem to resolve: to build a filament spool holder that will not take a space which I don't have, and that can be temporary hanged somewhere near printer. So, the idea came to my mind, and I decided to give that marker a new shiny life in a world of 3D printing, as a spool holder core. I waited till weekend and started to implement a spool holder around the marker. I cut off a top and a bottom of the marker, found two relatively suitable bearings (having 8mm and 13mm diameters outside), and designed and printed simple adapters for the marker. Then I have found two metal angle clips which I had previously bought in local hardware store, cut off a part of one of them, threaded M3 holes for connecting clips and bearings, and assembled everything together with M3 screws. In order to make the spool holder to hang perpendicular to the surface I have attached to it a piece of organic glass. To not scratch the surface of cupboard door where I want to hang the spool holder I have glued a piece of a soft puzzle mat with a double sided sticky tape to the organic glass. I have found a latch hook from an old camera case, and connected it to the spool holder with spare cable ties left after assembling RepRapPro Mendel kit. So, as a net result everyone are happy: my chief will be happier, because he will never accidentally grab this particular non-working marker for showing his idea on a whiteboard; a waste management company will be happier because less trash should be handled; and last but not least: I am now a happy owner of a reliable spool holder that is easy to install, and that takes virtually no space. So, modestly speaking, it's a brightest implementation of win-win strategy in its glory. :-)

No new stl with this one. I just saw that the fan's wires didn't have any room and were getting in the way of the bracket screws so I cut them some grooves in the extruder bracket. Now they have a home and don't cause me any trouble.

I built this box to keep my Printrbot Original in, and make it easier to transport.

The PSU is above the back protrusion of the print bed to save space (see pics).

When the lid is up the bed can extend fully forwards, and the lid doubles up as a spool holder.

When closed the box looks very nondescript (to pass uni room inspections). There is a handle on top for easy carrying. The usb cable and power cable can also be stowed in the box.

The box is built of scraps of wood I had already. Hence I've listed as "work in progress" as you would have to redesign it to suit your printer size and construction materials.

The PSU template is not my design but I can't remember where I got it from, sorry original author! I posted here as I struggled to find such a template.

I needed a filament holder for my 3D printer. The brackets are printed and then assembled with 1/2" PVC pipe and fittings.

This is a project I am working on for my furniture design class. I am inspired in this case by Scandinavian design. The seat portion will be made of vacuum bagged maple ply wood and the legs will be made from walnut to contrast the colour of the maple. The padding is high density foam with a fabric upholstery. The head rest hangs with a weighted rod to counter balance the cushion and is secured through the chair via cut out.

This is a poseable modular, magnetic robot toy. Make it, share it, sell it, trade it, upgrade it.

This uses a magnetic reed switch for a Z-max endstop on a Thing-o-matic Makerbot printer which allows Z-axis re-calibration before each print.

This thing is a 3D printed shoulder rig for DSLR cameras to help stabilize when shooting video.

I'm using the industry standard aluminum pipe size and spacing, so it should be possible to combine these printed parts with commercially available parts and/or rigs, though I have only tried that once with a part for a friends rig.

All the parts are designed in OpenSCAD and those source files are included below, in case you want to modify the parts to work with other pipes, differently sizes screw, etc.

Thingiverse has enough toy boats now, so I designed these segments for a 3D-printable ama/outrigger that could actually be used for hull(s) as part of a wee catamaraft or an outrigger canoe. (Starting with a beautiful excited ms-paint concept sketch that preceded a couple days of thought and a night of CAD :)

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ama_%28sailing%29
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Outrigger_canoe
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catamaran

STL and STEP files are provided of original blanks and my 3x2/4x2 model, so that hopefully you can adjust this design to whatever size you want and fittings you have available. A SolidWorks eDrawings file is also available to get a quick look at my suggested assembly. Actual rope lashings are not shown, but I hope you can figure out something as simple as cris-crossing a rope to lash 2 beams together, since representing it in a CAD drawing is tedious. Not all the nails are in this diagram either due to defining mates for either end of the assembly being a pain (I've learned to use octagonal holes outside the X-Y plane instead of circular, for ease of printing).

My current pre-holed versions of these models are adjusted so they should fit nicely with 6ft-long beams of 2x3" or 2x4" wood cut to standard North American softwood lumber dimensions:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lumber#Dimensional_lumber
The design shows 6ft 2x3's in the sides holding the outriggers straight, but this could be achieved with shorter scrap lengths by staggering them along either side. A few 1ft-long 2x4's are shown cut to a roughly appropriate shape, but longer beams would be better, and the lateral beams (aka) are 5ft lengths of 2x4" with a notch on one flat side near either end to aid holding position to lashing points.
The nails shown are some 3mm by 45mm aluminium roofing nails that I've just got hold of (if you're going to use metal fasteners at sea, high-grade stainless steel, admiralty brass or aluminium is a must), and there are holes between each designed section that could be used for 6x25mm dowels.

Not shown in pictures yet is a hole that I added across each bow, which could have rope tied through it for rigging or carrying. The two holes shown at the back could be used for a pivot-and-pin adjustable rudder, so that it can be pulled up when launching/beaching and dropped&pinned into place during strong winds.

I might add some more part designs later to enable a very small sail to be rigged easily; when I have time of course, there are so many other fun and useful projects that I could try working on.

Bonus points if you can build one with a sail, solar panel, battery, Arduino GPS Shield, sensors and actuators, and have it circumnavigate the globe autononmously. Zero-fuel automated freight is one goal that I hope we can aim to develop towards (and past :)

A stand for Cubic Print's excellent filament spool ( thingiverse.com/thing:12744 ).

I used byteborg's remix ( thingiverse.com/thing:16340 ) of the center to save some time but it doesn't matter either way.

You'll need to print the parts from the above Thingiverse listings along with the part on this listing and some get some extra hardware to complete this project. See instructions below for what you need to do.

OWL is a prototyping platform for ducted/cowled Horizontal-Axis Wind Turbines, which can deliver increased efficiency-per-area, blade safety and reduced noise.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_lens
Starting documentation at: opensourceecology.org/wiki/Shrouded_wind_turbine

These types of turbines tend to show an increase in power output of 2-5x for a given blade-swept-area, depending how well the shroud is designed. (See open paper: mdpi.com/1996-1073/3/4/634 and 2.5m 5kW-rated-each results of this study en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Windlens1.jpg) A shroud also tends to cut down blade-tip vortices, which are typically the single largest cause of noise and downwind turbulence in wind turbines, since it induces a wind-tunnel-like environment where an almost '2D' flow pattern can form around the blades without spilling around the end as much. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wingtip_vortices)
A couple of safety considerations with wind turbines can be improved by a shroud/cowling; firstly in the highly unlikely event of a blade failing, any fragments would hit the cowling before anything else, so there would be significantly less danger to any passers-by, and the popularly overstated danger of birds hitting turbine blades is further lessened by having a stator in front. I have kept the current design to a roughly 1m diameter, since this should give a good safety margin of strength to wooden blades and make construction easily manageable for a very small team.

An idea that I've been sitting on and trying to figure out the details of for too long (a couple of years now), but still needs a fair bit of design work.
I would like the turbine to run in as wide an operational envelope of wind-speeds as possible, in order to take advantage of intermittent storm winds that frequent a site that I will be testing it on. As such the present design does not furl out of the wind with increasing speed, and has a heat-sink applied to the stator coils in order to prevent overheating in strong winds. This has yet to be tested though and should be regarded as stupid/reckless/unsafe until it can be verified by testing. I may also design an alternative off-centre mounting that should allow the system to furl out of very high winds.

The mounting pole is just there to give an idea of how to compatibly mount this to a tower. Having such a long pole directly from the horizontal axis would not be recommended in practice, and the turbine should be mounted by a relatively short stub at the top including some kind of yaw bearing. The structure is presently designed to accept up to a 35mm diameter pole, and I am considering the use of 25mm bicycle headset bearings in conjunction with thick-plate threaded steel tubes, or possibly sand-casting a mounting stub out of aluminium.

My design work has been inspired by:
Hugh Piggott's "Wind Turbine Recipe Book" 2009 metric edition; scoraigwind.com/
FloDesign's concept designs youtube.com/watch?v=WB5CawKfE2M (might as well mute this video as it is full of marketing BS)
...and of course the many designs of gas turbine engines that presently power most of the world's large passenger aircraft and military aircraft, which also inspired FloDesign's engineers to do their work.

The aerofoil profiles were achieved using Divahar Jayaraman's MATLAB script: mathworks.com/matlabcentral/fileexchange/19915-naca-4-digit-airfoil-generator under BSD License.
I tried editing it to output scaled data, but it seems that simply copy-pasting output vectors into OpenOffice Calc and then saving as fixed-column-width .CSV gives cleaner data that is easier to import to SolidWorks.
I used NACA designation 0020 for the stator blades and 9415 for the wind-lens. The stator is fitted with symmetric blades in such a way that its angle of attack can be altered to 0, 4, 8 or 12 degrees in either direction (shown at 4 in picture) depending on which way you want to cut your rotor blades to spin, and I have designed the wind lens foils to extrude at 12 degrees angle of attack.
If I was any good at CFD then I could optimise this more, but I'm hoping someone can help me with that.

I.Q.B. (I-cube)
The ultimate toddler toy!

After shopping around for toys for our son, I was quite disappointed with the price/longevity/challenge of most toys.
There is some cool stuff out there, but most are utterly simplistic and quickly boring and way too expensive.
So I set out to create the coolest toddler toy ever ;-)

The basic idea is to create a fancy looking enclosure, add lots of buttons, dials, some LED's, a mic and speaker. Hook them up to a micro-controller and voila a reprogrammable toy.

I have been working on multiple aspects at the same time, but I thought it time to start sharing the first part:
The enclosure, a cube made from printed parts and Plexiglas.
While this is not the cheapest option, it will be quite modular during construction and finalizing.
And I expect the end-result to be quite sturdy and up to toddler abuse.
For me this also an excercise of working with Plexiglas again and I was ordering some anyway ;-)

I'll update the project as I move along.
Follow instructions at your own risk!
As always, if you don't know what you are doing, don't do it!

A cheap & generic holder for your spools. Easy spool change. Multiple holders could be used for a bunch of spools in parallel on a skid.

This is a device used for testing middle school students' structures. It is an improvement on putting a structure across two sawhorses and hanging weights from the structure!

I've used it for "Jinx Wood" bridge structures as well as sheet metal structures.

Check out my TeacherHann YouTube Channel - youtube.com/teacherhann - for videos of my students projects being tested to destruction!

Kudos to my colleague, fellow middle school Design and Technology teacher Gord McGill for allowing me to replicate his idea!

This chair is a derivative of Enzo Mari's original Sedia design. This project was created as part of a MDes that looks at open design and the creation of derivative objects.

See: nick-graham.posterous.com

In it's current state the design has a few details that I feel need to be resolved. I have left them untouched to see how this community develops the design. So please feel free to send me photos of your own versions and any links to work derived from this design.

Enjoy.

If you use different extruders, is a hassle to recalibrate your reprap each time you change the extruder. Therefore I decided to make my hobbet bolts much more precisely and reproducible.

To gain better hobbet bolts, you need the little bolt hobbit and a proxxon micromot 50 (with some adjustment you might also be able to use any other kind of dremel-like tool).

With the bolt hobbit, you can make a hobbet bolt with 32 teeth that are perfectly parallel, sharp and have the same dimensions. Furthermore it is easy to reproduce some identical bolts (that feed the exact same amount of filament per revolution to the hot end) so it is no longer necessary to recalibrate your firmware each time you change the extruder.

This thing is slightly inspired by the KNRLR found here: thingiverse.com/thing:21782 but made much more rigid and handyer to rotate the bolt (can probably be used for mass-production of hobbed bolts :) )

edit 1: Added IGES design file
edit 2: I just made the first >6hour print with the new bolt (it was a print with a large number of retractions - the worst situation for the filament feeding system) and it worked absolutely flawless! Printing speed was up to 70mm/s in this print (40mm/s average).
edit 3: people who print another machine-holder (as found in derivates for example) can now download the standalone lever-only stl file in order to not have to print the proxxon-holder too.

Printrbot Z-Axis Stabiliser Ends designed to minimise wobble. Stylised to suit Brook Drumm's Orignal Printrbot design.

My design for this originated from TheGrum's "Printrbot Top Joinder", so a thanks goes out to TheGrum.

The Infinity Garden is my personal version/derivation of the Kontinuum Garden designed by the Rasmussen brothers of Copenhagen, Denmark.

You can read more about their awesome project, or help fund them at this address: indiegogo.com/Kontinuumgarden

Personally, I thought their design could use a few tweaks, so I created this Thing as a Proof-of-Concept, and way to share my thoughts with them. I don't mean to steal any of their thunder, and welcome them to utilize any and all of my ideas shown here!

The biggest improvement I have to offer is that everything in my design can be printed on a Makerbot Cupcake, Thing-O-Matic, or Replicator, thus encouraging maximum availability.

My design was made in SolidWorks, and I've included a .zip file containing all of my original files, assemblies, renderings, etc. Feel free to experiment, modify, and create a neat Thing out of this!

Again, this is a PROOF-OF-CONCEPT only, so I didn't check out dowel sizes at the hardware store, or figure out many of the minute details. So tweaking will be in order before anyone goes off printing this substantially print-intensive beast!

This is an easy to print Logitech 9000 camera and Black Decker line laser mount for Makerscanner software.

I wanted to try 3D scanning, but didn't want to spend a whole lot of money to do it. I have a great camera, the Logitech 9000 and a cheap Black and Decker BDL220S line laser from Walmart for $20. Other methods require printing arms to connect the components together, I chose to use 3/8" wood dowel... quick and easy. The tripod mount is optional and can be printed later.

I found an antique Hermes Baby typewriter in a shop. It was in working order but way too expensive, so I thought, "why not just print one?" I have a MakerBot, and I can print anything!

So I scanned the typewriter into an STL file, then used some CAD magic to split it into individual STL's ready for printing.

The finished product works wonderfully. I've made some modifications to reduce the depth of the keys and reduce the chance of jamming it.

This is a camera rig for use with Autodesk's 123D Catch software and service. 123D Catch lets you generate a detailed 3D model of an object from a collection of photographs.

The rig described here helps you structure the photos for best results. It lets you spin the camera around the object at a constant height and distance, while the object stays still. You can easily move the camera up and down to get top and bottom angles.

These are parts that I modified from thingiverse.com/thing:3066 to fit oak dowels that I already had. I also used the Spool bushing for 608 bearings thingiverse.com/thing:15868 created by
Miro87043 for the center.

Since I discovered how awesomely useful one of these is from living in flats that had one installed a couple of times, I've wanted to produce one myself.
See: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheila_Maid
google.com/search?imgtype=&hl=en&q=sheila+maid&tbm=isch

The basic concept is a rack of narrow planks or similar suspended between a pair of coathanger-like blocks, which are usually made from cast iron. The frame is lifted up to ceiling-height with laundry on it using a pair of pulleys, one of them a double-pulley, and some string. I am trying to design one that could have the end-pieces 3D printed, and if required for heavy laundry (big towels and sheets), possibly used in lost-wax casting with something like scrap aluminium or brass, with the rest of the materials (beams, pulleys) from salvaged or cheap stock.

Plastic endpieces are probably only capable of supporting small laundry items repeatedly, and I have created a separate small test-piece model in order to find out how much weight can be supported by the most-stressed part of the hangars, the string/rope-hole at the top, before it plastically deforms or breaks. I have yet to perform these destructive tests.
I guess that a plastic part would have to be ridiculously thick in order to form the frame of the pulleys and not break, so I am currently thinking that those ought to be simply made out of parallel pieces of sheet-metal, unless you can find some suitable pulleys to re-use, which would be even better.