Do you use solder ?

This is a stackable solder spool holder. You can make one for each of your spools of solder, and then stack them up out of the way when you are done with them !

You will need, some 1/8" (3mm) acrylic, about 7.5" by 10" of colored, and about 3.5" x 3.5" or clear. Plus some rod. I use 5/8" wooden dowel cut a little bit shorter then 3 1/4".

If you don't have a laser cutter but would like a solder spool holder, you can get the kit at SpikenzieLabs.com/catalog.
Follow the link to Lasered Items.

This is my first cut of a 3D turntable scanner that can be printed on a cupcake/reprap. It is by no means finished but it is a start.

It has a turntable driven by a motor ( a size I had in my 'bits' box ) and mounts for a camera and the laser line drawer.

It needs heaps more work but I thought I'd put the first cut into the thingiverse and see what people came up with

The blender file of the complete device is included in the tar gzip file. I have not uploaded all the stl files individually , grab the zip if you want them all.

To build it you will need a 608 bearing , 5mm (or 3/8 ) rod , some M4-20 bolts , a motor , webcam , laser pointer and possibly a PHD in quantum physics :P

There is no software yet but this

sjbaker.org/wiki/index.php?title=A_Simple_3D_Scanner

looks like a good start; combined with an arduino to index the wheel and some scripting this could be a automatic scanner.

Primarily this is meant as a test of the method of generating supports by extruding the low-lying parts of a mesh downward as pillars. Hopefully this could be applied to much more complex figures.

A small desk clamp.

Works but it requires a little more super glue than I would have liked.

It was designed to be a PCB holder (the one Lady Ada uses in her instructions was the inspiration).

ladyada.net/images/usbtinyisp/tools.jpg

The base is too small making it unstable.

However I just finished printing it and it works!

To make it you will also need.

3/8 (5mm will do as well) threaded rod and some square nuts.
Square brass tubing ( 3.9 mm ) and the size that fits just inside that.

Needs some more work:

Bigger base , maybe multipart
Better way to hold the clamps

The tar file contains the blend , photos and all the stl files.

This is a design of the RepRap extruder drive that is compatible with the Darwin quickfit clamp system and the Ponoko lasercut kit. It will take either 16mm PTFE or heatsink based heaters. It is designed to be made with no lathing or machine tooling. An opto sensor may or may not be fitted to regulate rotation speed - I found that this was definitely required with an all-metal heater assembly. If you develop software to do that, we'd love to see it!

Its a gyoza press I made for the competition. Its not much, but its at least something that is printable. Watch out for the overhang on top.

I wanted to make a cable rack even before krekr posted his design, but I wanted to make it clamp on to my workbench rather than be permanently attached. This derivative takes his design and adds clamps so I don't have to drill holes into whatever old computer desk I happen to be using as workbench at the time!

I've wanted to make something that incorporates a custom clamp and I also have been wanting to try to make some snap together parts for a while, so I incorporated both into this design. If you want to use something other than ABS to make these clamps though, it would be pretty easy to replace these snaps with T-slots for fasteners (which I might do anyway).

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie

This a CNC'ed 2" plywood box. More test than practical.

Now that my MakerBot is on order (Batch #7), I'm trying to think of accessories to add to it. Whatever they end up being, it'd be nice to make them match the MakerBot's construction as much as practical. Since I don't have a laser cutter handy, I thought I'd try a similar style construction using my CNC mill; this is the result.

The Imperial screws are just what I happened to have on hand. I plan to stock up on metric socket-head screws soon; any MakerBot accessories I publish will be metric.

INTRO
It seems to be the month of construction sets on Thingiverse, so here is another entry in the category.

Contraptor is a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots. It is basically 1" aluminum Erector set with linear motion extensions. While it's in development and sometimes things don't work as they should, functional robots have been assembled from it: contraptor.org/contraptions

The set is designed to be made with the simple tools of a basic workshop. A lot of materials for Contraptor like aluminum angle, threaded rods and fasteners can be found in a hardware store. In the spirit of modularity, it uses Makerbot/Reprap electronics and Arduino/Sanguino controller.

In addition to DIY plans, we're working on Shopbot-able kits that can be manufactured in small quantities by anyone willing, from open source drawings.

Contraptor components and assemblies are modeled in Sketchup and are hosted on Google 3D Warehouse, mostly for ease of accessing from within Sketchup. Thingiverse is the best place to host DXF/SVG sources and part lists for components, so there will be more Contraptor things coming (hopefully including printed ones from the community :).

Apologies for the long read, on to the thing:
/INTRO

Perforated angle comes in lengths from 1" to 24" and can be used as a structural component, as well as a linear motion rail for sliding elements. Attached DXF file and part list are for 1-ft long perforated angle.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+angle

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

Sliding elements slide on perforated angle thingiverse.com/thing:1066, driven by either leadscrew or belt. There are three sizes of the sliding element: 3.5", 2.5" and 1". The part list is for 3.5" size.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+sliding-element

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

Linear rail comes in several lengths: 6", 12", 18", 24" etc. Attached DXF file and part list are for 12" long linear rail.

The rail can be attached to perforated angle, channel or T-slot profile, such as 80/20 Fractional 10 series. A pair of rails and at least a pair of linear bearings thingiverse.com/thing:1075 are needed to make a complete linear stage.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+linear-rail

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

Linear bearings ride on linear rail thingiverse.com/thing:1071, driven by belts or leadscrews. A pair of rails and at least a pair of linear bearings are needed to make a complete linear stage. There are three sizes of the linear bearing: 3.5", 2.5" and 1". The part list is for 3.5" size.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+linear-bearing

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

A pair of shaft mounts with bearings support a threaded rod used as a pulley shaft or a lead screw.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+shaft-mount

This thing is a part of Contraptor - a DIY open source construction set for building Cartesian robots: contraptor.org

Motor mount is used to attach NEMA23 stepper motor to Contraptor assemblies.

Sketchup source:
sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?q=contraptor+motor-mount

A single-digit split-flap display, like the displays in old train stations. Rig it up to a stepper motor and you'll have yourself a low-power retro-cool display. This Thing doesn't include any controlling electronics. Big ups to Metrix Create:Space, where this was designed and made.

For those whole like to ban things, this is a printed speldge hammer with the word BAN reversed out of the face.
Post about it on my blog: eagleapex.com/2009/11/01/ban-hammer-3d-printed/
Made at hive76.org

This is and end mill laser cut holder for the 10 piece grizzly end mill set seen here: grizzly.com/products/g9757

I use 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" aluminum for the supports or columns. This is a method that I invented. I call this self threading square tube insert method. The 4 holes on the masonite (hard board) are exactly positioned so that when they are all screwed in they "self thread" into the aluminum corners. The use of longer bolts will give a stronger hold. However for this project I used 2x 1" bolts and 2x 1/4" socket head screws.

The masonite used is 1/8". The top layer consists of 2 sheets identically cut (minus the engraving on the 2nd one). The first bottom layer is exactly the same as the top (minus the engraving). This allows for the end mills to "slide" into place and not move around. The last layer is the file that has the work "bottom" in it. It basically is only the outline and no end mill holes.

This is a breakout board for the L293D motor driver chip. It is single sided, and therefore very easy to make. If you don't have EAGLE, you can download the PDF version of the layout.

UPDATE:

I've uploaded gcode for milling the pcb. If the settings aren't optimal for your machine, it should be fairly easy to modify the files.

This is my take on MakerBot's Mechanical Endstop. All the traces are on a single layer, and the silkscreen is optional. It is easy to make by hand.

The output pin is normally low, but goes high when the switch is triggered. The resistors are surface mount, but can be soldered easily by hand.

This is Thing-a-Week #1, other things can be found here. iheartrobotics.com/search/label/thing-a-week

This thing holds your solder. It has a few special features, including a front mounted solder winder to store dispensed solder and an integrated wall mounting system. Springs can be added to apply friction and prevent excess solder from being dispensed. Compatible with Kester leaded and unleaded 1 lb spools and possibly with others.

If there is interest I'll make an optimized version for sale. This version uses way too much plastic and I don't have time right now to optimize the design.

shapeways.com/shops/iheartengineering

This is Thing-a-Week #5, previous things can be found here. iheartrobotics.com/search/label/thing-a-week

Currently this is untested and experimental due to the holiday weekend and since it is still printing.

These parts are used to build a positive pressure glove box style clean room.
The goal is to produce somewhere around a Class 10,000 cleanroom environment in a small space that is useful for taking things like hard drives, cameras and lasers apart.

The current design uses a shopvac air filter part #VF3500, but part #VF6000 is probably preferred.
ridgid.com/Tools/Vac-Filters/EN/index.htm

Based on initial estimates the RadioShack Cooling Fan part #273-0241 should provide reasonable performance when matched with the air filter, however testing has not yet been completed.

Connecting rods are cut from 6061-T6 Round Aluminum tubing, and tapped M4.
OD 0.25" Wall Thickness 0.065"
onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=6844&step=4&showunits=inches&id=71&top_cat=60

The open endcap connects to the fan using M3 countersunk screws and nuts.

The design may require caulk or gaskets to function properly.

Two slots and one screw, no drilling

This is a design concept for a stand that holds multiple spools of plastic for easy dispensing and reloading. The idea is to use printable parts for the joints and a commonly found broom handle (1" diameter) for the support and axle.

One 5ft. broom handle cut up into 5x1ft sections should produce a stand like the one pictured. If you want to go bigger, you will need more than one broom handle. Also, the feet have features for adding cross braces, if needed.

This is 100% un-tested, and I wont be able to start printing until the end of March. If anyone would like to test out the tolerances/stability, feel free. Any documentation of your findings would be greatly appreciated.

This is a design concept for a stand that holds multiple spools of plastic for easy dispensing and reloading. The idea is to use printable parts for the joints and a commonly found broom handle (1" diameter) for the support and axle.

One 5ft. broom handle cut up into 5x1ft sections should produce a stand like the one pictured. If you want to go bigger, you will need more than one broom handle. Also, the feet have features for adding cross braces, if needed.

This is 100% un-tested, and I wont be able to start printing until the end of March. If anyone would like to test out the tolerances/stability, feel free. Any documentation of your findings would be greatly appreciated.

I got sick of trying to use my drill press as a lathe in my attempts to build my extruder, so I threw this together in SolidWorks. I used 1/4" and 3/8" acrylic for most of it. There are three pieces of 3/4" HDPE for slides. It has 12 X 1/4-20 hex nuts, 36" of 1/4-20 threaded rod, two plastic knobs, and the drive assembly from a cordless drill. I left off the tailstock, live center, and cutting tool plate, but those can be easily fabricated. Use it at your own risk. I uploaded some pictures of the finished lathe and my first completely successful part. The lathe isn't the perfect solution, but it get's the job done.

I got sick of trying to use my drill press as a lathe in my attempts to build my extruder, so I threw this together in SolidWorks. I used 1/4" and 3/8" acrylic for most of it. There are three pieces of 3/4" HDPE for slides. It has 12 X 1/4-20 hex nuts, 36" of 1/4-20 threaded rod, two plastic knobs, and the drive assembly from a cordless drill. I left off the tailstock, live center, and cutting tool plate, but those can be easily fabricated. Use it at your own risk. I uploaded some pictures of the finished lathe and my first completely successful part. The lathe isn't the perfect solution, but it get's the job done.

The human powered internet cafe looks at the issues of renewable power generation and aims to educate users to the energy requirements of surfing the internet.

Users are asked to peddle the exercise bikes in order to turn a dynamo which would in turn power the computers. If users fail to peddle hard enough the computer monitors will begin to flicker encouraging them to peddle harder.

The thing would ideally be placed in public areas where all forms of society could view it and try it out for them selves, thus educating as many people as possible.

The human powered internet cafe looks at the issues of renewable power generation and aims to educate users to the energy requirements of surfing the internet.

Users are asked to peddle the exercise bikes in order to turn a dynamo which would in turn power the computers. If users fail to peddle hard enough the computer monitors will begin to flicker encouraging them to peddle harder.

The thing would ideally be placed in public areas where all forms of society could view it and try it out for them selves, thus educating as many people as possible.