Having the RAMPS electronics inside the printer frame, connecting a USB connector is pretty hazardous, both for me and for the current print.

I made an extender with a USB B socket and a USB B cord I had laying around to connect my RAMPS. This is the bracket to hold the USB extension cord on the outside of the frame. The dimensions of the USB B socket match the USB specification, but make sure the face of it is 12 x 11.5 mm before printing.

A variant without the plastic tab to clip the socket is also available should you desire to hot-glue the connector.

The soldering to extend the USB port of the RAMPS itself is left as an exercise to the reader.

Simple LED Holder to mount two 5mm LEDs to shine down on the print bed of a PrintrBot LC

Hi, this is my first upload, I have received as christmass gift wind chime square, but no spinner were included. I have checked web and there are few between 15-20USD, it seemed too much for me, so i have created first draft prototype in 10minutes with stuff which i have had on my desk (1,5V batery, few wires, plastic stripes, few safety pins and very old cd-rom)
youtube.com/watch?v=7RvLLuwNciM&feature=youtu.be

Just for fun, something to keep that special someone in your life close at hand;-) Printed in PLA at 40% infill they are quite sturdy- although breakable in a pinch (a requirement in anything that encircles the neck). The rings work well with paracord.

The Large Collar has a 14cm internal diameter.
The Large Manacle's internal dimensions are 5.6 cm x 6.5 cm.

The Small Collar has a 12cm internal diameter.
The Small Manacle's internal dimensions are 4.9 cm x 6 cm.

Everyone has seen Raspberry Pi Computer, the credit card sized mini PC circuit board that cost only $35. Now there is a new Mobile Raspberry Pi called Pi-to-Go. Mini LCD, 10 hour battery, and 64GB SSD hard drive. You can 3D print your own case and build your own. Complete instruction on how to build this Pi-to-go computer can be found here: blog.parts-people.com/2012/12/20/mobile-raspberry-pi-computer-build-your-own-portable-rpi-to-go/
Video of it in action
youtube.com/watch?v=E89s2h9swIc

this is version one of my beatjazz gestural control interface. it is a 3 way wirelessly networked control interface for creating and manipulating sound. there is a headset, and two hand units, all adjustable.

the beatjazz control interface is not an "instrument" as much as it is an idea of personal interfacing. i created this as my interface to computers to express myself in a different way, owing to the neccesity to program everything myself. my personal version has not remained design stable since its first functional iteration. it is evolving along with the software and the biokinetic paradigm.

in this version, the headset has a pressure sensor that registers breath pressure and uses it to instantiate notes, and functions. it also has a lip sensor made from a force sensing resistor that allows for lip control in a manner similar to a sax player but with massively more potential for expression.

the hand units are exactly the same except that they are mirrored (i designed the left hand and inverted the design before printing.) there are four fsr mounting points on the keypad area for force sensing resistors. underneath the forefinger and the thumb on each hand, there are 5 way toggle switches that i use for mode selection (volume control, looper rec/dub, sustain and primary loop record) and the lower one is for octave selection. on the right hand the upper joytoggle is for transposition modes and for some upcoming concepts i am playing with ;-) while the lower joytoggle is for pre and post fx, muting and feedback.

an accelerometer on each hand determines x-y coordinate based on the plane positioning of the keypad of each hand. with the keypad level with the ground, x axis is left/right tilt and y axis is forward backward tilt, both from the wrist. these motions are used to control a grid of gestural parameters. the synths that i use are purpose built for this method of control, which i call gestural trajectory synthesis. (i will be uploading the patches very ooon.)

A holiday decoration using RGB self-changing LEDs.

You can shoot at the bottle with a rubber band. If you hit it, the bottle falls down and get raised up by a lever.

Christmas tree form with holes for 5mm LEDs. Base is sized for 9V battery.

Wire it up ala thing: 14713 and it'll stand up where you put it. Or hang it from the Christmas tree.

Derived from drdpj's 12cm outer-edge fan mount (for 25mm deep fans), this version is designed for the often much more powerful 38mm deep fans.

A lot of these larger fans can spit out a massive amount of air, and with that, only one is required in most cases. The one I use is a 225DS-1LP13 manufactured by Etri.

Thats a small candle arch, made of 1 mm plywood. We added some LED-light effects, by using a self made LED flickering modul.
more information and other projects you will find under: jtronics.de/modellbau.html

This is a Thing I have Built a Prusa Mendel with 1.8 Steppers and a RAMPS 1.4 SHield for an Arduino Mega.

Iphone 4/4S case with space for credit cards, additional SIM card and a SIM card tool.

New files! this time repered in netfobb.

Printable inserts to fit wall and floor box plates. Starting off with serial/monitor DB connectors. Heavy DB is a clip-in fitted for 4, 6 or 8 port wall plates. Narrow DB is a recessed clip in for 4 or 6 port floor box covers. Both layouts provide flush insertion depth and are intended for solder on connectors. This design requires the insert to be slid over the wire then soldering can be accomplished before clicking the insert into the plate. See instructions for details and links.

This is my Eclipse Clock body.

There are a whole lot of other parts and processes required, but this is the key to it all...

Plus it is a BIG introduction to Charlieplexing LEDs.

This will fit the OpenPandora's EXT- Plug and a little PCB for a DIY TV-Out Cable.
It's made to fit a 11X11mm PCB and the Plug.

Update:
I made a HowTo for the TV cable and uploaded it as a PDF in Germand and English!

Update 2:
Added a Zip file with a Postiv of the Plug so that you can put it in to your own design.

An extra large seven segment display for a clock, a counter or anything that needs big numbers.

No power due to Hurricane Sandy... and running out of D cell batteries for the flashlights... :-

Got a bunch of AA cells... hmmm... Let's put that 3D printer to good use while we have the generator going! ;-)

Please read the instructions before downloading files!

All the Rostock printers made me want to print some taller files - here’s your chance.

Just for a bit of history on MakerBot Z-axis print heights:

- Cupcake CNC: 100mm
- Thing-O-Matic: 120mm
- Replicator: 150mm
- Replicator 2: 155mm

And to check in on some competitors:

- Printrbot Plus: 203mm
- Ultimaker: 220mm
- Series 1: 230mm

With the swapping of just 6 pieces*, a Replicator 1 can be made into the (Unofficial) Replicator XL - with a Z-axis build area of 250mm. The only pieces needed are 4 new wood panels and 2 smooth rods.

How much bigger is it? The Replicator 1 build volume is 300 cubic inches. The Replicator 2 is 410 cubic inches. (Unofficial) Replicator XL? 500 cubic inches (err...498 I think).

I also figured if I was in there editing files, I might as well make it look a little more like the Replicator 2, so all of the ‘window’ shapes have been changed to reflect the ‘new look.’

Enough talk, let’s get to the photos!

flickr.com/photos/jabella/8129250268/in/photostream

flickr.com/photos/jabella/8129224609/in/photostream/


The smooth rods I used are: mcmaster.com/#6459K112 (8mm x 400mm)

Big thanks to Bruce Wattendorf (of Giant Ultimaker fame) for helping with my meager DXF editing skills. Thanks also to Dan and Jetty for helping after I spent hours messing with broken firmware.

Just in time for Halloween! A printable, wearable arc reactor based on the Mark I movie version.

There are already some great arc reactors on here, but I wanted to take my own crack at it.

Printed indieflow's design but no dice with the fan I had! These grip a 12cm cooling fan on the outside edges if it has solid straight through screw holes (such as the cheap brushless fans from maplin).

I created a small light attachment, which is battery operated, and fits into the head of the lamp.

If you have an existing printed version of the lamp, you can add this to it, pretty easily. You may need a dremel tool to extract away a little of the plastic, so you can add the switch and mount the little light. This is what I did.

The heaterboard was not heating up, so we installed a new LED and the board now works properly.

The idea is to connect additional electronics to a power socket device that would turn it into a zigbee power meter. From then on we can communicate with the sockets and:

>> Gather information about the current energy consumption - once we have it we can analyze, compare, learn from it and finally be more energy efficient

>> Control – both the energy consumption and your workflow at home. Describe what you want to achieve in the Agilart Designer and control your home from a simple Dashboard you can access from all your gadgets

>> learn how to SAVE more ENERGY

** Designed together with Kris Kalinov as part of the Power Home team at Startup Weekend Sofia

** Won Startup Weekend Sofia: sofia.startupweekend.org/2012/09/24/powerhome-wins/

Take better pictures and video with your phone!

This adjustable bracket will mount your smartphone to a tripod, Gorillapod etc. Any Android or iPhone smartphone will fit, with or without a case (up to 0.60 inches thick).

This works for all American tripods (1/4-20 mounting screw), but I'm not sure what kind of screw is used in other countries for mounting cameras.

*Making this requires using a Soldering Iron to weld/melt Threaded Inserts into one of the printed pieces. If you don't know how install the inserts don't worry because it's super easy - look here for instructions: thingiverse.com/thing:30576
You should be able to find Threaded Inserts at a hardware store like ACE or online at Mcmaster-carr.*

This is the Neuron, a learn to solder kit I threw together for the 2012 Kansas City Maker Faire. On the surface it's just another easy to assemble "my first soldering project" blinker, but put a few of them together and you can make a light and touch reactive light show! It functions as your typical alernating LED blinker with a jumper in place, but remove the jumper and they mirror pulses of light detected on one LED to the other. Chain a large set of them together and they'll activated each other in sequence. They're also bi-directional so you can send a pulse one direction in a chain and send another back the opposite direction. A single Neuron firing can activate more than one Neuron, forming branching light shows as well! You can even use one in blink mode to act as a convenient light pulse source.

Mini table-top wheelie bin

Automatic cookie dispenser for my bunny. It uses a servo-motor and an arduino to control it

Videos:
youtube.com/watch?v=KUEFhiFB6Zs
and
youtube.com/watch?v=yq5uEwbengA

Threaded inserts rock. Hard. If you don't know what they are:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Threaded_insert

I was lucky enough to learn this threaded insert installation method at work years ago. After perusing Thingiverse for a while and not seeing anyone else using threaded inserts (after looking over maybe 500 or so things) I thought I'd share this tasty morsel of design goodness with your knowledge-noshing neurons.

This method provides for good torque and pull-out resistance, especially if you use the inserts specifically designed for this soldering-iron insertion method. I've seen lots of people using 'captive hex-nut' designs in their parts here on Thingiverse, and threaded inserts can often be used in a similar manner to provide an alternative and sometimes "better" solution.

This uses a magnetic reed switch for a Z-max endstop on a Thing-o-matic Makerbot printer which allows Z-axis re-calibration before each print.