This is the Sanguino board. It is an Arduino compatible board based on the atmega644P. This page will tell you how to assemble one, probably from a kit that you bought somewhere. Once you are done, you'll have a sweet little board you can use for prototyping, hacking, or even for a permanent project.

The Sanguino has some awesome features like:

* 64K of flash space
* 4K of RAM
* 2K of EEPROM
* 2 hardware serial ports
* 32 GPIO pins
* 6 PWM pins
* 8 analog pins
* I2C, SPI, etc.

This is a circuit for driving bipolar stepper motor drivers. More information on the RepRap site: make.rrrf.org/smd-1.2

This is a lasercut extruder for a RepRap machine. I'll be posting instructions online soon.

This is a shield for the Arduino microcontroller board that has all sorts of fun do-dads to hack on:

* 3 x linear sliders w/ integrated LEDs (each independently hooked up to PWM)
* 3 x pushbuttons
* 2 x indicator LEDs (each with a PWM)
* 1 x piezo buzzer (for making noise!)
* 1 x temperature sensor
* 1 x light sensor
* 1 x knock sensor
* 1 x 7 segment LED (with shift register)
* power LED and reset button

More info at: zachhoeken.com/danger-shield-v1-0

A little box for holding 5 potentiometers and three switches. Making it super easy to add inputs to your next Arduino project.

This is the plastic extruder that we have developed over at MakerBot Industries. It is a primarily lasercut design which uses a pinch-wheel filament drive system and a nichrome heating element. It is heavily based on work we've done with the RepRap project and is compatible with the RepRap mounting system.

You can buy kits for this at the MakerBot Store: store.makerbot.com/featured-products/plastruder-kit-presale.html

This is the design we used for the first batch of MakerBots. These are the lasercut design files you will need to make your own if you have access to a laser cutter.

Here is a box that I made with my reprstrap. It has an inside size of 50 mm by 50 mm by 25 mm (approx).

This is an omnidirectional wheel. If you know what this is, you know that they're a real pain to find, and expensive when found. They're expensive because it's a niche item, not because it's terribly complicated or hard to produce -- an excellent candidate for home replication.

Unlike commercial omniwheels, this comes with a Futaba-style servo mount already in place -- it's designed to be screwed directly to the servo. If this isn't your style, replace the object named "Servo Collar" in the Blender file with the mount of your choice.

v1.1 Update: Based on input from Simon Kirkby, I've enlarged the centers of the roller wheels and changed the axle mounts, which no longer need drilling.

This is a toy airplane thing I made for a hacker's on a plane advertisement.

I used 3mm wood. Four small swiss motors, 2 button batteries, some double sided tape and some wood glue.

A better Y-Axis endstop cable for the Makerbot.

I do need to upload the installed picture. I havent gotten around to taking the pic as I still have to connect it up properly.

This gets away from the thick ethernet-type cables and gives a more secure connection.

EDIT: Installed pics added. Will need a couple of blobs of hot glue will keep it in place.

Personal 3D Printer rev.3 Beta

A powder-based 3D printer.
Build area: 15.25"L x 8.8"W x 6.6"D
Based on a Lexmark z715 inkjet printer.

This is a revision of a project started at University of Washington, under Prof. Mark Ganter, in the Solheim RP Lab.

Credits:
P3P rev.1:
Kory Koyamatsu, Kristina Olson, Erik Roby, Nathaniel Thompson, Tri Truong
P3P rev.2:
Steven Balkus, Miguel Guzman, Kevin Hawkinson, Ben Palmer, Vlad Nesterov
P3P rev.3:
Kevin Hawkinson


3D printing information:
tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/

This is the final version of the I-Hacked.com badge (art by surbo). This badge is modified slightly from the original design to house a bicolor LED (hevnsnt's awesome idea, not mine!) and to allow the battery tray to stay in place without any additional hardware (so it can be attached to other badges, etc.).

The battery tray also features a nice lip so the CR2025 won’t just fall out when you pull out the tray. This was done primarily to convince badge recipients that the battery only went in one way, as the bicolor LED was to remain an "undocumented feature". All badges had red/blue LEDs and started off red, but if you flipped the entire tray over and re-inserted it you’d have a blue badge. As many of you probably know, blues and reds don’t generally get along very well…

A member from CCCKC approached me over a month ago wanting to make some special promotional badges for Defcon. They wanted something like these (http://inventgeek.com/Projects/Laser-Fab-LED-Necklace/overview.aspx) but wanted to keep the form factor of their previous badges (luggage tag size, basically). This is the first prototype version of the resulting LED badges.

These badges are glued together, so they don’t have any protruding fasteners, but the battery can easily be replaced (the LED can as well but that’s a little harder). The battery door is meant to be kept in place with a key ring or badge clip, but seems to stay in place with friction on the prototypes. I’ve included both 3mm (if you’re using 1/8” acrylic) and 5mm (for 1/4" acrylic) LED templates. If you want a thinner badge, use the 3mm LED version, but be warned that warping can be an issue if you etch it too deep. I have black acrylic in hand so the back and middle sections of the badges are cut from that, but there’s nothing stopping you from making the entire thing out of clear acrylic.

This is an electromagnet demispool, half of the hollow spool for a two inch nail electromagnet.

An automated controller for home brewing, based on the Sanguino. I didn't design this - I just built it, but thought it would be an interesting addition :)

Both the hardware and software designs are open source. Kits and board schematics can be found at the homepage.

Homepage is brewtroller.com

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie

Niftymitter is an open source short range FM transmitter based on the open source hardware design by Tetsuo Kogawa.

Version 0.1 is designed to be housed within a 3mm acrylic or bamboo body, with a variety of options for hacking. The transmitter is tiny and handy for small scale radio broadcasts, building a distributed PA system for performances, linking your personal audio player to your car radio, or for general audio experimentation.

I am currently working on v0.21 which is a bit of a radical redesign, so v0.1 is posted for completeness.

ISSUES in v0.1:
- too bulky
- acrylic prone to failure at corners
- cable tie construction troublesome - not very secure, ends tend to catch on things.

The project's home is at openthing.org/products/niftymitter

Niftymitter is an open source short range FM transmitter based on the open source hardware design by Tetsuo Kogawa.

Version 0.22 is designed to be housed within a ~1mm card body, with a variety of options for hacking. The transmitter is tiny and handy for small scale radio broadcasts, building a distributed PA system for performances, linking your personal audio player to your car radio, or for general audio experimentation.

The new version solves many of the problems in v0.21 (See project website for v0.21):
* dimensions of net refined for better fit to battery and pcb, and sleeve.
* transmission seems to be fine on the whole.
* spacing and hole sizes fixed for components on PCB

v0.21 solved many of the issues of v0.1:
* a lot less bulky, more friendly on the pocket
* improved component layout, slimmer, more stable
* no nasty cable ties
* more accessible for those without laser cutting facilities - can be hand cut, or plotter cut.
* cardboard more resilient at joints than acrylic.

KNOWN ISSUES IN v0.22:
* circuit box part needs to be restrained within sleeve - fiddly when removing battery tray.
* PP3 power lead needs better access to battery tray.
* separate, powered, mic design required.

The project's home is at openthing.org/products/niftymitter

Using 3 pieces of acrylic, 1 6inch by 6 inch board and 25 to 30 220ohm resistors i made this heater plate. you can make it too! -

i soldered one end of the resistors to the copper board, applied a thin layer of tape to the area across that was not soldered, and then soldered the other end to a wire . the red wire was positive, the copper plate was negative, i then soldered the copper board with a black wire, and then taped several times over the copper side with the resistors several times to allow heat to stay in. using the resistor values is ok, a method that uses 330ohms is used to keep telescopes from fogging at night. the idea is to provide enough energy in heat that can be dissipated safely. the soldered end of the resistor transfers heat to the copper board. the copper acts as a heat spreader, and the pcb acts as a good stick layer for thermal plastic. I also have a video here:
youtube.com/watch?v=pDEkp3ym1TE

Niftymitter is an open source short range FM transmitter based on the open source hardware design by Tetsuo Kogawa.

Version 0.24 is designed to be housed within a ~1mm card body (shirt card), with a variety of options for hacking. The transmitter is tiny and handy for small scale radio broadcasts, building a distributed PA system for performances, linking your personal audio player to your car radio, or for general audio experimentation.

The new version solves many of the problems in v0.22/0.23:
* Full assembly instructions on instructables.
* Artwork/info added on housing.
* Stereo/mono conflict resolved - can now accommodate stereo and mono plugs.

KNOWN ISSUES IN v0.24:
* circuit box slides around when switching on/off or plugging in.
* PP3 power lead needs better access to battery tray.

The project's home is at openthing.org/products/niftymitter

16x27 array of 5mm red leds (432 leds), controlled in PWM with arduino and MAX7313 controller on each line, controlled by i2c.


Build-up log: tetalab.org/lionel/
Web simulator: pixels.tetalab.org

I wanted a heated build platform, but I don\\\'t have a way to work with metal. Thus, I designed this Aluminum with NiCr heating element heated build platform to be put together with little modification from parts that can easily be ordered online or picked up at a local store.

2010-02-28 - UPDATE: Tested it and it works great. The corners do not melt and, in fact, provide an easy way to handle the hot build platform.

2010-04-07 - UPDATE: I covered the AL with Kapton tape (1" strips) and it seemed to work much better than the Lexan, but then my extruder started having "issues" so I am fixing that. I did not re-print the four "standoff" pieces when I did this, but one could download the scad file and change the variables to 0 for the lexan height since the small gap is not necessary.

Full description/detail here: cre.ations.net/creation/printable-jacket-cuff-lights

We've all been there. Fumbling around in a dark parking lot, trying to find the keyhole on the car door or mailbox. Sure, you'd use a flashlight, but who has the room for those bulky outlines?

Granted, the cuff lights aren't the most practical of solutions but they're so cool. They're hidden in your jacket cuffs, nearly invisible and perfectly comfortable, just waiting to be activated with a little sideways pressure.

Also, if it's very dark, you can stun would-be attackers with them. The lights are bright enough to blind and disorient for about 5-10 seconds when eyes are accustomed to darkness.

Beco Blocks are 3d printable, snap together, ball and socket based building blocks.

Initially created as a prototype for another ball and socket based project, these blocks functioned so well I decided to make a number of variations to allow the creation of more complex objects.

Created at Robots and Dinosaurs, the Sydney, Australia hackerspace.
robotsanddinosaurs.org/

I got sick of trying to use my drill press as a lathe in my attempts to build my extruder, so I threw this together in SolidWorks. I used 1/4" and 3/8" acrylic for most of it. There are three pieces of 3/4" HDPE for slides. It has 12 X 1/4-20 hex nuts, 36" of 1/4-20 threaded rod, two plastic knobs, and the drive assembly from a cordless drill. I left off the tailstock, live center, and cutting tool plate, but those can be easily fabricated. Use it at your own risk. I uploaded some pictures of the finished lathe and my first completely successful part. The lathe isn't the perfect solution, but it get's the job done.

I've felt a need for a way to very quickly and easily attach sensors and motors to an Arduino to prototype simple robots. I love ladyada's motor shield but was frustrated by it's inability to easily connect to sensors.

So far I've tested the board on my sumobots and a prototype fire-fighting robot and it works perfectly.

This is my first prototype and I'm in the process of iterating the design once more. I'm thinking I may use a NAND gate to free up an extra two digital lines and perhaps not include a built in potentiometer and speaker and instead have a mini prototyping area with .1" spaced pins. I'm open to suggestions... What do you think this board needs?

The eventual goal is to sell kits to help fund more robotics projects here at the Tufts Robotics Club (see: tuftsroboticsclub.com ) and hopefully help robotics enthusiasts turn their ideas into reality just a little more quickly and easily.

I have a few extra boards which I might be selling in the near future. Let me know if your interested in a board/kit at langfordw[at]gmail[dot]com