Simple LED Holder to mount two 5mm LEDs to shine down on the print bed of a PrintrBot LC

Everyone has seen Raspberry Pi Computer, the credit card sized mini PC circuit board that cost only $35. Now there is a new Mobile Raspberry Pi called Pi-to-Go. Mini LCD, 10 hour battery, and 64GB SSD hard drive. You can 3D print your own case and build your own. Complete instruction on how to build this Pi-to-go computer can be found here: blog.parts-people.com/2012/12/20/mobile-raspberry-pi-computer-build-your-own-portable-rpi-to-go/
Video of it in action
youtube.com/watch?v=E89s2h9swIc

A simple battery clip that holds one C, D, AA or AAA battery. This clip is probably more usefull to include in your designs than to print one on its own.

this is version one of my beatjazz gestural control interface. it is a 3 way wirelessly networked control interface for creating and manipulating sound. there is a headset, and two hand units, all adjustable.

the beatjazz control interface is not an "instrument" as much as it is an idea of personal interfacing. i created this as my interface to computers to express myself in a different way, owing to the neccesity to program everything myself. my personal version has not remained design stable since its first functional iteration. it is evolving along with the software and the biokinetic paradigm.

in this version, the headset has a pressure sensor that registers breath pressure and uses it to instantiate notes, and functions. it also has a lip sensor made from a force sensing resistor that allows for lip control in a manner similar to a sax player but with massively more potential for expression.

the hand units are exactly the same except that they are mirrored (i designed the left hand and inverted the design before printing.) there are four fsr mounting points on the keypad area for force sensing resistors. underneath the forefinger and the thumb on each hand, there are 5 way toggle switches that i use for mode selection (volume control, looper rec/dub, sustain and primary loop record) and the lower one is for octave selection. on the right hand the upper joytoggle is for transposition modes and for some upcoming concepts i am playing with ;-) while the lower joytoggle is for pre and post fx, muting and feedback.

an accelerometer on each hand determines x-y coordinate based on the plane positioning of the keypad of each hand. with the keypad level with the ground, x axis is left/right tilt and y axis is forward backward tilt, both from the wrist. these motions are used to control a grid of gestural parameters. the synths that i use are purpose built for this method of control, which i call gestural trajectory synthesis. (i will be uploading the patches very ooon.)

Christmas tree form with holes for 5mm LEDs. Base is sized for 9V battery.

Wire it up ala thing: 14713 and it'll stand up where you put it. Or hang it from the Christmas tree.

Derived from drdpj's 12cm outer-edge fan mount (for 25mm deep fans), this version is designed for the often much more powerful 38mm deep fans.

A lot of these larger fans can spit out a massive amount of air, and with that, only one is required in most cases. The one I use is a 225DS-1LP13 manufactured by Etri.

This is a Thing I have Built a Prusa Mendel with 1.8 Steppers and a RAMPS 1.4 SHield for an Arduino Mega.

This is my Eclipse Clock body.

There are a whole lot of other parts and processes required, but this is the key to it all...

Plus it is a BIG introduction to Charlieplexing LEDs.

No power due to Hurricane Sandy... and running out of D cell batteries for the flashlights... :-

Got a bunch of AA cells... hmmm... Let's put that 3D printer to good use while we have the generator going! ;-)

Pixoxos a tangible printer of digital things collected form the net.

Tweet "pixoxos" and I'll post your best tweets ;p

This project is a tangible printer for normally non-tactile things like: tweets, meeting appointments, facebook mentions or images etc. Practically anything you can think of that will fit on the a thermal receipt.

Web : scottmayson.com/Pixoxos-Printer
Video: vimeo.com/51895465
Images: tinyurl.com/8k6dnvg
Featured: adafruit.com/blog/2012/10/25/pixoxos-design-for-adafruit-iot-printer-project-3dthursday/

Just in time for Halloween! A printable, wearable arc reactor based on the Mark I movie version.

There are already some great arc reactors on here, but I wanted to take my own crack at it.

Printed indieflow's design but no dice with the fan I had! These grip a 12cm cooling fan on the outside edges if it has solid straight through screw holes (such as the cheap brushless fans from maplin).

This is a mounting bracket for thing thingiverse.com/thing:27550, a 3W, high-power LED lighting board. Use these to mount the LEDs to the bottom of your cupboards and illuminate the countertop below. This mount screws into the bottom of the cup

The heaterboard was not heating up, so we installed a new LED and the board now works properly.

A small, completely printable quadcopter printed on my Up! Plus 3D printer

This is the TinyFan a fan (and fun) driver that controls up to 4 12V fans using just an ATTiny45 or ATTiny8, 4 tactile switches and some electronic components (most general use, aka cheap).

The programming of the ATTiny has the folowing capabilities:
+ Can use PWM in 2 of the outputs (labeled 1 and 2)
+ The tactlie switches have a secondary (special) function if held during 2 seconds.
+ The program can use EEPROM memory to save last state in the chip. Also, if you don't want this feature, you can disable it.

Also you have available two designs: Prefboard or PCB.

Watch it in action! goo.gl/UIM2Z (G+ album)

This thing was made by:
Francisco Malpartida
G.W.C.

Special thanks to Iceflow.

Update 15 Aug 2012 (00:00)
Improved the programming. Now memory is only rewrited after a state sticks for 2 seconds (saving writes while changing the PWM state), and also the code has been reduced (1.96KB without EEPROM, 2.27KB with EEPROM).

The like a proper design should be, USB jack is on the back of the Printrbot. I decided to do the same with the power plug so it was easier to connect. This also moved the PSU away from the printer for easier plugging and work on things.

Update June 08, 2012:
I've created a version 2 of the double battery cover that is designed to look better, enjoy!

Update June 06, 2012:
After a little experimentation, I found it is easier to assemble if your batteries are facing negative side up, and the button feels better if you clip the top LED lead short enough that it just crosses the center of wedge on the underside of the button.

I'm always a fan of having handy flashlights on my keys, I find plenty of uses for them. I've taken Roland's motorcycle keychain and modified it so it can house an LED light! The only things you need, other than printing the plastic parts, are an LED, a small plastic tube, and one or two batteries of either CR2032 or CR2016.

A dodecahedron speaker can be a useful tool in acoustics research, and is definitely a fun toy to pull out at parties. They are available commercially, but pretty expensive. Some people build their own, but the odd compound angles and the high degree of accuracy and precision required in the parts make for challenging work with manual tools. It's a perfect job for a 3D printer. Total cost for parts and materials is just under $100. That includes speakers, hardware, wires, cable, plastic filament - everything.

Diamond shaped LED desk lamp.
Approx. size 3 1/2" x 2 3/4" x 2 3/4"
Uses any old 5 volt cell phone charger to produce a quality visual effect.
Some electronics required.

Update May 21, 2012:
I've uploaded a Fritzing file that illustrates the schematic for the Binary Clock. Download Fritzing here fritzing.org/. I'm not alltogether sure how the schematic and PCB views are supposed to look, so I mainly paid attention to the breadboard view. If anyone feels inclined to update it, please send it my way!

I decided that I wanted to learn how circuit boards worked, so I picked up an Arduino UNO starter kit and went to work.

As my first project, I thought it would be neat to have a little home made binary clock on my desk at work, so I decided this would be my first project. The white light represents Am, yellow show the current hour, green are minutes, and red are seconds.

If you are familiar with binary, you'll understand what the lights mean, otherwise check this out en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Binary_numeral_system.

Here is a small video showing it in action youtube.com/watch?v=WXBh5Zqhoss&list=FLSD1-_SkYPcnzfSHYnXrqcw&feature=mh_lolz

This is still a work in progress because I plan to also design a 3D printable case for it.

This is a MOSFET driver board to enable the control of a cooling fan from a Sanguinololu board using Sprinter firmware. I have included a protection diode and suppressing capacitor which is overkill if you are using a PC/GPU brushless DC motor fan but I wanted to make this drive general purpose for use in other expansion projects and experiments.
I also considered having this made by a PCB maker using SMD’s but I would probably need to order a couple of hundred units to make it worth while as its such a small circuit. I think this would be a useful prototyping gadget for Arduino projects as well as 3d printer upgrades as it could be made really small using SMD’s, small enough even to tuck inside a cable sleeve. I’d love to have a bunch of these in my tool box as it would save a lot of time faffing with breadboards when you just want to try something quickly. So if anyone else is interested in buying one or two let me know and if enough people show willing I’ll advance the project.

UPDATE
I have refined the design of this driver and had some boards made up. It’s an SMD design and I've made it as small as possible while still allowing various connector/wiring possibilities. I'm currently making it available as a kit as not everyone has the necessary materials to hand and it can be a pain trying to source one of a particular 0603 resistor. If you'd like to purchase a kit from me please go to:
carbonfrog.com/ebaylistings/MD305V2-Redirect.html
If you'd like just a board or a kit with slightly different parts let me know and if enough people ask for a particular packing list I'll make it available. The kit comes with a brief instruction card but I'm compiling more comprehensive instructions. As soon as they are done I'll upload them and some new photos. Meanwhile please check out my listing above.
Buy the way before anyone asks the supplied transistor is an IRLML0030TRPBF.

If you need lots of Arduino Compatible controllers, but don’t need the price tag of a full development platform? This handy little kit is perfect for anyone who is experienced with the Arduino Compatible Microcontrollers, and needs to include a lot more of them in his/her next project. If you follow the steps on this page making a project on a breadboard is a snap, tie as many ATMEGA328′s together as you need to. The sky is the limit, and everything you need can be found at virtuabotix.com/feed/?p=407!

Pickup the kit at amazon.com/gp/product/B007AX97ZE

Or build it yourself with our parts list and schematics.

Use this thing to set the Z-Minimum height on a Thing-O-Matic automagically!

This is a system for adding motion to time lapse films.
Check out the video.
vimeo.com/37495550

slidetracked.com

Digital LED Light Strip to create images with long exposure photography.

Original project idea was inspired by TheMechatronicsGuy.

sites.google.com/site/mechatronicsguy/lightscythe/

A few months ago, my school was getting ready for a theater run of "The Little Shop of Horrors" and needed a tripod that could mount a video camera and be controlled from back stage wirelessly via radio. The whole idea behind the thing was that at the end of the play, when the plant achieved sentience, a camera, hidden inside of the huge plant, would look around at the audience and pick-out one member of the audience to devour.

I was most dismayed to find out that junior year of high school is not the most forgiving time to be trying to bang-out a completed, complicated, reliable device involving software, electronic and mechanical hardware as a one-man development team. A student needs more than 4 hours of sleep every night to be able to at least attempt to hold an intelligent conversation once a day for the duration of the school week.

I did not manage to finish the actual mechanical part of the assembly in time for the run (it's missing the all-important camera mount) but managed to finish all of the gears, mounts, wiring, soldering, OpenScad and Arduino/XBee coding necessary to get the thing moving via remote with stepper acceleration, control smoothing and a wicked-fast 20ms communication delay (by comparison, most first-person shooters operate with a 80-200ms latency). So 1,199 finished lines of code later, I have to admit it's still a work in progress (at least the mechanical camera mounts are) but I'm hoping, at the very least, the XBee and Arduino code involved in the controller and receiver sketches might help out anybody who needs to have super-fast, reliable wireless data communication with error checking and ACK packets using an XBee in API mode.

I'll update this Thingiverse posting with a video of the whole contraption moving under its own power sometime later today once I've had a chance to trim and upload the video.

The latest current source files for the Arduino and XBee powered electronics and the parametric gears can be found at their respective Github repositories here: (for the Arduino code)
github.com/xtremd/XbeeRemoteCameraRig
and here: (for the OpenScad code)
github.com/xtremd/Parametric-Openscad-Tripod-Mount

If anyone has any questions about my code or my tripod, just drop me a quick comment below and I'm sure a bunch of people (including me) will be able to help you out.

-XtremD

This hack and the code attached allows a user to control a fifth stepper with a Gen 3 motherboard. If you have a second stepper driven extruder, this will allow you to do dual extrusion.

The unused SCL and SDA pins are used for the fifth stepper.

Major work in progress, tell me what is unclear and I will fix it.

Laser cutter coolant flow sensor.

The concept was to have a sensor that wasn't inline with the coolant line and couldn't restrict the flow if it seized up. I'm sure that the design is scaleable within reason for other projects. It is simply tywrapped to the outlet end of the coolant pipe and dunked in the coolant reservoir/bucket.
The sensor is a simple hall effect switch.

BTW, if anyone knows how to embed a YouTube link to movie, let me know - the movie is at the bottom :-)

I have been working on a makerbot that is controlled by the adafruit motor shield. I made all the parts and wooden pieces by hand using a saw. Once i had all the wooden pieces I put it together and added 2 nema 17 stepper motors for the x and y axis. I used a parallax continous rotation servo for the z axis. The code isbased on some code by Max Livesey and I edited it so it will 3d print instead of ploting. I built the whole thing for around 250 us dollars.
(it is using an arduino mega so analog pins can be used with an extruder board i built)