This is the Sanguino board. It is an Arduino compatible board based on the atmega644P. This page will tell you how to assemble one, probably from a kit that you bought somewhere. Once you are done, you'll have a sweet little board you can use for prototyping, hacking, or even for a permanent project.

The Sanguino has some awesome features like:

* 64K of flash space
* 4K of RAM
* 2K of EEPROM
* 2 hardware serial ports
* 32 GPIO pins
* 6 PWM pins
* 8 analog pins
* I2C, SPI, etc.

This is a circuit for driving bipolar stepper motor drivers. More information on the RepRap site: make.rrrf.org/smd-1.2

This is a lasercut extruder for a RepRap machine. I'll be posting instructions online soon.

This is a shield for the Arduino microcontroller board that has all sorts of fun do-dads to hack on:

* 3 x linear sliders w/ integrated LEDs (each independently hooked up to PWM)
* 3 x pushbuttons
* 2 x indicator LEDs (each with a PWM)
* 1 x piezo buzzer (for making noise!)
* 1 x temperature sensor
* 1 x light sensor
* 1 x knock sensor
* 1 x 7 segment LED (with shift register)
* power LED and reset button

More info at: zachhoeken.com/danger-shield-v1-0

A little box for holding 5 potentiometers and three switches. Making it super easy to add inputs to your next Arduino project.

This is the plastic extruder that we have developed over at MakerBot Industries. It is a primarily lasercut design which uses a pinch-wheel filament drive system and a nichrome heating element. It is heavily based on work we've done with the RepRap project and is compatible with the RepRap mounting system.

You can buy kits for this at the MakerBot Store: store.makerbot.com/featured-products/plastruder-kit-presale.html

This is the design we used for the first batch of MakerBots. These are the lasercut design files you will need to make your own if you have access to a laser cutter.

A better Y-Axis endstop cable for the Makerbot.

I do need to upload the installed picture. I havent gotten around to taking the pic as I still have to connect it up properly.

This gets away from the thick ethernet-type cables and gives a more secure connection.

EDIT: Installed pics added. Will need a couple of blobs of hot glue will keep it in place.

Personal 3D Printer rev.3 Beta

A powder-based 3D printer.
Build area: 15.25"L x 8.8"W x 6.6"D
Based on a Lexmark z715 inkjet printer.

This is a revision of a project started at University of Washington, under Prof. Mark Ganter, in the Solheim RP Lab.

Credits:
P3P rev.1:
Kory Koyamatsu, Kristina Olson, Erik Roby, Nathaniel Thompson, Tri Truong
P3P rev.2:
Steven Balkus, Miguel Guzman, Kevin Hawkinson, Ben Palmer, Vlad Nesterov
P3P rev.3:
Kevin Hawkinson


3D printing information:
tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/diy_3d_printing_and_fabrication/

This is an electromagnet demispool, half of the hollow spool for a two inch nail electromagnet.

My Second design of a small geometric sculpture that explores the battle between cake and pie

16x27 array of 5mm red leds (432 leds), controlled in PWM with arduino and MAX7313 controller on each line, controlled by i2c.


Build-up log: tetalab.org/lionel/
Web simulator: pixels.tetalab.org

I wanted a heated build platform, but I don\\\'t have a way to work with metal. Thus, I designed this Aluminum with NiCr heating element heated build platform to be put together with little modification from parts that can easily be ordered online or picked up at a local store.

2010-02-28 - UPDATE: Tested it and it works great. The corners do not melt and, in fact, provide an easy way to handle the hot build platform.

2010-04-07 - UPDATE: I covered the AL with Kapton tape (1" strips) and it seemed to work much better than the Lexan, but then my extruder started having "issues" so I am fixing that. I did not re-print the four "standoff" pieces when I did this, but one could download the scad file and change the variables to 0 for the lexan height since the small gap is not necessary.

I got sick of trying to use my drill press as a lathe in my attempts to build my extruder, so I threw this together in SolidWorks. I used 1/4" and 3/8" acrylic for most of it. There are three pieces of 3/4" HDPE for slides. It has 12 X 1/4-20 hex nuts, 36" of 1/4-20 threaded rod, two plastic knobs, and the drive assembly from a cordless drill. I left off the tailstock, live center, and cutting tool plate, but those can be easily fabricated. Use it at your own risk. I uploaded some pictures of the finished lathe and my first completely successful part. The lathe isn't the perfect solution, but it get's the job done.

This is a new and improved heated build platform. It is lightweight, compact, lower cost, and sexier than the old heated platform. It is also easier to put together and simpler in construction.

The major breakthrough on this board is twofold:

1. We use a PCB for both the heater element and the support circuitry.
2. We use a lasercut aluminum heat spreader for uniform temperature.

After a bit of trial and error, we came up with an optimum trace resistance of about 4.5 ohms which gives us a 30 watt heater at 12v. This allows us to get up to 100C pretty easily (under 10 minutes).

This is a PCB design for 6 leds which can be attached to the extruder nozel head via the 2 threaded bolts. This is a derivative of the printable Makerbot light ring.

The circuit is a simple one, however there is an added function.

This is designed to be wired into the extruder motor connectors 1A and 1B, therfore when the motor runs forward, it lights 3 LEDs (White) When it reverses, it illumiates the Blue LED's.

Check out my video for an example here: youtube.com/watch?v=lRiLqAD1rlk

and in actual use (Pinting PrintruderV2) youtube.com/watch?v=VoPX63fTHiw

Alternativly, use this pcb and add the LED's all the right way wound and have this as a circuit just to illuminate! its like potatoe waffles - lovely and versatile!

This is the Files i use to make a stepper driver board from the pololu driver.

This is a single board that contains most of the electronics required to run a RepRap. All the components that require soldering are through-hole.

Documentation can be found at objects.reprap.org/wiki/Gen2OnABoard

The human powered internet cafe looks at the issues of renewable power generation and aims to educate users to the energy requirements of surfing the internet.

Users are asked to peddle the exercise bikes in order to turn a dynamo which would in turn power the computers. If users fail to peddle hard enough the computer monitors will begin to flicker encouraging them to peddle harder.

The thing would ideally be placed in public areas where all forms of society could view it and try it out for them selves, thus educating as many people as possible.

This is my entry for the Makerbot giveaway.

It is a first draft of a 1/3 scale model/design inspired by a Zenith K-518 clock radio from 1953 (see included image) that I am currently restoring. The original pictured is about 12-in x 4.5-in x 6-in in size. It was one of the last years Zenith used Bakelite in its radios. The design presented would be used in the construction a working model AM radio (like the original), which would feature a clock on the left side, a ~1-inch speaker mounted behind the grill in the center, and the tuning panel on the right. The lower left nob would be volume control (and possibly a click-on-off switch...although those are a bit tougher to get at this size), and the right nob would be the tuning control.

As far as size of the cabinet goes (about 4-in x 1.4-in x 2-in), the design presented could be shifted up or down in order to accommodate the restrictions of the printer. I have a feeling the speaker grill may be too fine as it is to be printed reliably, although I would need the expertise of someone to confirm that.

makezine.com/go/makerbot

blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/04/makerbot_giveaway.html

When I converted it over to STL, it does seem to have messed up the scale in the file, so I'll have to look into that.

This is an LCD and keypad control panel for controlling a Reprap Motherboard based fabber like the MakerBot CupcakeCNC. With this you will be able to use your fabber without needing to attach it to a computer. You can set heater temperatures, move and zero the axes and print .s3g and .gcode files directly from the SD card. The LCD will show you continuous temperature readings, position, and build progress.

What it is is parts to my robot, Blue thunder. It can run, jump, walk, talk, sing, dance thriller, learn with an evolutionary algorythim I'm working on, etc. Not makeable on a Makerbot, but a Rapman should manage.

I really wanted a fully integrated solution for controlling a heated build platform, as well as for communicating with the motherboard. I also wanted to be able to use the heated build platform as a controlled hot plate in order to do surface mount reflow. I created this board to have the ability to do both. I started this several months ago, but just now was able to gather all of the parts to build it and test it.

The board is meant to control mains voltage (i.e. 120/240 VAC), and therefore uses an optically-isolated triac that is protected by a fuse. Temperature feedback is through a Type-K thermocouple being read by a MAX6675. The whole system is controlled by an ATMega328 based Arduino in a TQFP package. Feedback to the user is through a 16x2 LCD and 3 buttons. The control circuitry is powered though the 5V line on a Molex connector off of an ATX power supply.

Features:
*Controls up to 1000W of AC mains power
* I2C Communications back to the motherboard
*Measurable temperature range of 0 to 1024 degrees C with 2 degree accuracy
*16x2 character LCD screen
*Up, Down, and Select buttons
*Programmed with USB-TTL cable or ISCP programmer
*Arduino-based for easy coding and compatibility with other boards
*AC Power is optically isolated and fused
*Breakout of extra I/O pin

So far, I’ve been able to test the temperature sensor, the LCD, the buttons, and programming, but I have not been able to test the AC power yet. I should be testing that soon, but right now, use at your own risk.

The ZIP file contains the EAGLE files, Gerber production files, pictures of the board, and a Microsoft Excel file containing all of the parts, suppliers, costs, and board designators.

I am considering selling this board as a kit if I get enough interest, so please tell me what you think!

UPDATE: I have been using this design for several months now, and it seems to work fine. In the mean time, this design has won me the PLTW Innova Award for Imagination! pltw.org/innovaawards

A simple conveyor belt build platform for the MakerBot. It enables the MakerBot to do multiple prints without user intervention.

This is an initial prototype that does not support a heated build platform. I intend to add HBP support at a later time. I'm also still playing with conveyor belt materials. I've started with some Duralar I picked up for an art supply store. It has held up ok so far but more experimentation is required.

The intent here is to get the design out so people can play with it.

I got bored and had a radioactive rock...so why the heck not? Its got 2 poles for UV lights 'cause its fluorescent (which would be nice if i had fluorescent plastic). It can also hold another object. Not quite sure what though.

After I had a theft of a Makergear superpack from my doorstep I decided to step up security the true Makerbot open source way! Now I wish the post office would pay for the lost goods already.

I had a really old Veo webcam laying around, took it apart and designed a small stealthy housing for it.

I then found some good old fashioned open source software from Dorgem and a tutorial.

Tut:
simplehelp.net/2006/09/27/how-to-use-your-pc-and-webcam-as-a-motion-detecting-and-recording-security-camera/

Dorgem:
dorgem.sourceforge.net/

Another alternative software with many more features, is Tebocam:
teboweb.com/WebCam.htm

Also my favorite software that I have found, Yawcam:

yawcam.com/


Also, i'm working on a printable pan and tilt for this webcam... it's not quite ready yet for upload.

Update 11/29/10: Now with smaller file sizes

This is a board that allows you to power a Mk4/Mk5 Plastruder, Heated Build Platform, etc. using external mosfets (and an optional relay). It can be directly connected to a stock Extruder Controller without any modifications. The input lines connect to the '-'(GND) terminals on the EC.

After already burning out one EC mosfet, and hearing that you might need to use a relay board to power the Mk5, I finally decided to design and build this board. The IRF520 mosfets I used in the prototype should be able to power a Mk5 Plastruder without any problems, and do it silently ;). They support PWM heating code as well, for better temperature management. All the outputs are protected with flyback diodes, so they can drive inductive loads as well (motors, other relays, etc).

Using this board to power the Plastruder/HBP reduces the current going through the mosfets on the Extruder Controller down to ~10ma per mosfet. Your EC mosfets should not heat up or burn out. If you do happen to burn out a mosfet on this board, it is a lot easier to fix/replace than the ones on the Extruder Controller.

It also reduces the current going through the Cat5 cable going into the EC, which could help reduce communication errors that can occur.

I've only tested this with my Mk4 Plastruder and HBP, but the current capability should be there to support a Mk5 (IRF520 = 10A). Since it is not part of the extruder controller, it is much easier to add other cooling solutions (i.e. fans), or even use other types of mosfets. I mounted large TO-220 heatsinks to the IRF520's to help keep them cool.

This is the first 'big' circuit I've designed, so there might be errors in the schematic. If there are errors, or if anyone know of ways to improve the design, please leave a comment.

Future plans/ideas:
1. Try using higher pull-up resistors (100K instead of 1.2K)
2. Add a master/emergency cutoff switch
3. Design/order/test an actual PCB

An Arduino Shield with a Single 16-Channel CMOS multiplexer (DG406DJ) and custom output pin.
Single-sided pcb milled with Geil-o-mat using metaboard.sh script to convert .brd files to .ngc ready for CNC milling.

Used for Arduino Power Monitoring Impulses Purposes, 128inputs multiplexed to 8inputs over Arduino - ATMEGA328.
Actually running and monitoring ~100 active server racks with XML output on arduino ethernet shield

This is a base for a bicycle light