This is the Sanguino board. It is an Arduino compatible board based on the atmega644P. This page will tell you how to assemble one, probably from a kit that you bought somewhere. Once you are done, you'll have a sweet little board you can use for prototyping, hacking, or even for a permanent project.

The Sanguino has some awesome features like:

* 64K of flash space
* 4K of RAM
* 2K of EEPROM
* 2 hardware serial ports
* 32 GPIO pins
* 6 PWM pins
* 8 analog pins
* I2C, SPI, etc.

This is the plastic extruder that we have developed over at MakerBot Industries. It is a primarily lasercut design which uses a pinch-wheel filament drive system and a nichrome heating element. It is heavily based on work we've done with the RepRap project and is compatible with the RepRap mounting system.

You can buy kits for this at the MakerBot Store: store.makerbot.com/featured-products/plastruder-kit-presale.html

An automated controller for home brewing, based on the Sanguino. I didn't design this - I just built it, but thought it would be an interesting addition :)

Both the hardware and software designs are open source. Kits and board schematics can be found at the homepage.

Homepage is brewtroller.com

The Plastruder MK4 is the latest extruder design for MakerBot machines. We've fixed a couple of bugs, and improved the design to be more robust. A quick summary of the changes:

* Motor shaft support bearing
* Fully attached dino supports
* Better machined parts (heater barrel, nozzle, etc.)
* Motor is more firmly attached to housing

16x27 array of 5mm red leds (432 leds), controlled in PWM with arduino and MAX7313 controller on each line, controlled by i2c.


Build-up log: tetalab.org/lionel/
Web simulator: pixels.tetalab.org

this is a digital 7 segment led wall clock with 42mm high digits based on a atmel atmega168.
the display modules come from RFT, a former manufacturer in the GDR(DDR). (second hand)

In case you want to use the Nanotec stepperdriver boards for your 3D, e.g. RepRap, printer, this board might be of use. It provides for the recommended capacitor and connectors for (AMP) Power, steppermotoer, and Min/Max sensors. Use it for the X, Y, Z and (optionally) extruder steppermotors.
The nanotec board provides microstepping (1/8 or 1/16 for SMC11 or SMC11-2 respectively)

The connector pin layout is conform the gen3 electronics motherboard as used in the RepRap and MakerBot 3D printers.

Attached is a PCB version as well as a Veroboard layout.

I got sick of trying to use my drill press as a lathe in my attempts to build my extruder, so I threw this together in SolidWorks. I used 1/4" and 3/8" acrylic for most of it. There are three pieces of 3/4" HDPE for slides. It has 12 X 1/4-20 hex nuts, 36" of 1/4-20 threaded rod, two plastic knobs, and the drive assembly from a cordless drill. I left off the tailstock, live center, and cutting tool plate, but those can be easily fabricated. Use it at your own risk. I uploaded some pictures of the finished lathe and my first completely successful part. The lathe isn't the perfect solution, but it get's the job done.

This is a new and improved heated build platform. It is lightweight, compact, lower cost, and sexier than the old heated platform. It is also easier to put together and simpler in construction.

The major breakthrough on this board is twofold:

1. We use a PCB for both the heater element and the support circuitry.
2. We use a lasercut aluminum heat spreader for uniform temperature.

After a bit of trial and error, we came up with an optimum trace resistance of about 4.5 ohms which gives us a 30 watt heater at 12v. This allows us to get up to 100C pretty easily (under 10 minutes).

This is the Files i use to make a stepper driver board from the pololu driver.

This is my modification of Ladyada's excellent open source MintyBoost kit that is documented at ladyada.net/make/mintyboost.

My modification consists of a custom PCB design based on the original schematic that it slightly larger than the MintyBoost's PCB but is single sided with no links and has room for two battery connections. It is still small enough to fit in a large Altoids tin along with 4x AA batteries.

You have the option of running the MintyBoost XL at 2.4v - 3.0v by putting the two pairs of 2x AA batteries in parallel or running it at 4.8v - 6.0v by putting the two pairs of 2x AA in series. The LT1302 runs at a maximum input voltage of 8.0v so the higher voltage produced by the batteries in series isn't an issue. Running in parallel might cause issues if the battery packs are not evenly charged as it may result in the higher charged one draining into the lower one. You have the option to decide when building as there is room to connect them in parallel on the PCB.

The resistors that I chose for the D+ and D- pins of the USB connector were 100k as I wanted it to work with my iPhone 3G. Some devices are fussier than others, most notably Apple's newer products, you may need to adjust the design to get it to work. See Ladyada's documentation and forums for more information about this.

To etch the PCB I used the toner transfer method which is extensively described at fullnet.com/~tomg/gooteepc.htm. Basically it involves printing the track design onto photo paper with a laser printer and then ironing it onto the copper clad board. After it has transferred to the board it is soaked in water to remove the paper which leaves an etch resistant layer of toner on the copper board. It is then etched in a corrosive solution such as ferric chloride to remove the remaining copper. Be sure to wear safety glasses, protective gloves and suitable clothing when dealing with etching solutions and keep it away from anything metallic.

The toner transfer method isn't perfect as the quality can vary quite a lot and requires a bit of tweaking. The real beauty of this method is that you can always scrub off the toner before you etch if you're not happy with the quality and try again.

Altoid tins are notoriously hard to get hold of in the UK but luckily Marks & Spencer sell "Curiously Strong Mints" which are identical to Altoid mints and come in the same sized tin.

The human powered internet cafe looks at the issues of renewable power generation and aims to educate users to the energy requirements of surfing the internet.

Users are asked to peddle the exercise bikes in order to turn a dynamo which would in turn power the computers. If users fail to peddle hard enough the computer monitors will begin to flicker encouraging them to peddle harder.

The thing would ideally be placed in public areas where all forms of society could view it and try it out for them selves, thus educating as many people as possible.

This is my entry for the Makerbot giveaway.

It is a first draft of a 1/3 scale model/design inspired by a Zenith K-518 clock radio from 1953 (see included image) that I am currently restoring. The original pictured is about 12-in x 4.5-in x 6-in in size. It was one of the last years Zenith used Bakelite in its radios. The design presented would be used in the construction a working model AM radio (like the original), which would feature a clock on the left side, a ~1-inch speaker mounted behind the grill in the center, and the tuning panel on the right. The lower left nob would be volume control (and possibly a click-on-off switch...although those are a bit tougher to get at this size), and the right nob would be the tuning control.

As far as size of the cabinet goes (about 4-in x 1.4-in x 2-in), the design presented could be shifted up or down in order to accommodate the restrictions of the printer. I have a feeling the speaker grill may be too fine as it is to be printed reliably, although I would need the expertise of someone to confirm that.

makezine.com/go/makerbot

blog.makezine.com/archive/2010/04/makerbot_giveaway.html

When I converted it over to STL, it does seem to have messed up the scale in the file, so I'll have to look into that.

What it is is parts to my robot, Blue thunder. It can run, jump, walk, talk, sing, dance thriller, learn with an evolutionary algorythim I'm working on, etc. Not makeable on a Makerbot, but a Rapman should manage.

Motivation
This thing goes between your power outlet and the extension cord to which all your computer gear is connected. The ecological dilemma is that you want to be able to switch on your computer conveniently by one switch, but most devices draw a standby power that can be between 1 and 10 W/device. This adds to your monthly bill.

Master/Slave extension cords or ones with switches are an alternative. However, after shutting down the PC is quite easy to forget to turn the switch, or there is still the standby current of the computer.

Function
Hence, this thing is a (partial) remedy. It basically disconnects all the devices from power. By pressing the big push-button, the computer/devices get connected to power. Most PCs have a BIOS setting "Automatic start on power loss". If this is enabled, the computer will boot up while the button is pressed. Of course also the 12V bus in the computer will be powered, and this voltage is connected to my device again, basically holding the button automatically. So after there is power in the PC, the push-button can be released and will be "pressed" automatically.
Of course, until the PC shuts down. Then, the computer and all other stuff will be disconnected again from all power.

Approximate building costs: 12€.
Approximate cost of all PC devices' standby power:8-15€ per year.
Build time: 2:30h

The only drawback is that you cannot use the standby mode any more, as the 12V power will be cut to stop the hard drives. One would need to draw a voltage from the big ATX motherboard connector for that...

This is a breakout board for an arduino that boosts the 5v signal from the arduino output to a high-power 12v, suitable for running RepRap heaters, fans, heated beds, etc.
The IDC will plug into my Arduino Mega Shield ( thingiverse.com/thing:3308 ) and the power socket is designed to accept standard PC disk drive power plugs.

The signal from the arduino is amplified using a MOSFET - I used FDB8880 ( uk.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=1228327 ) at 60p each, which will handle 54A - which is way more current than I expect to ever need, or can be supplied from a single PC power supply.
There are also 8 separate outputs on the board - populate as many as you need. I'm a big believer in multiple redundancy.

It's a nice simple board and it is a good introduction to SMD soldering - each output is separate, so you can mess up one circuit and still use the other 7. I'm also not the most skilled or tidiest maker, and I managed to make it work :-).

I really wanted a fully integrated solution for controlling a heated build platform, as well as for communicating with the motherboard. I also wanted to be able to use the heated build platform as a controlled hot plate in order to do surface mount reflow. I created this board to have the ability to do both. I started this several months ago, but just now was able to gather all of the parts to build it and test it.

The board is meant to control mains voltage (i.e. 120/240 VAC), and therefore uses an optically-isolated triac that is protected by a fuse. Temperature feedback is through a Type-K thermocouple being read by a MAX6675. The whole system is controlled by an ATMega328 based Arduino in a TQFP package. Feedback to the user is through a 16x2 LCD and 3 buttons. The control circuitry is powered though the 5V line on a Molex connector off of an ATX power supply.

Features:
*Controls up to 1000W of AC mains power
* I2C Communications back to the motherboard
*Measurable temperature range of 0 to 1024 degrees C with 2 degree accuracy
*16x2 character LCD screen
*Up, Down, and Select buttons
*Programmed with USB-TTL cable or ISCP programmer
*Arduino-based for easy coding and compatibility with other boards
*AC Power is optically isolated and fused
*Breakout of extra I/O pin

So far, I’ve been able to test the temperature sensor, the LCD, the buttons, and programming, but I have not been able to test the AC power yet. I should be testing that soon, but right now, use at your own risk.

The ZIP file contains the EAGLE files, Gerber production files, pictures of the board, and a Microsoft Excel file containing all of the parts, suppliers, costs, and board designators.

I am considering selling this board as a kit if I get enough interest, so please tell me what you think!

UPDATE: I have been using this design for several months now, and it seems to work fine. In the mean time, this design has won me the PLTW Innova Award for Imagination! pltw.org/innovaawards

This is a board that allows you to power a Mk4/Mk5 Plastruder, Heated Build Platform, etc. using external mosfets (and an optional relay). It can be directly connected to a stock Extruder Controller without any modifications. The input lines connect to the '-'(GND) terminals on the EC.

After already burning out one EC mosfet, and hearing that you might need to use a relay board to power the Mk5, I finally decided to design and build this board. The IRF520 mosfets I used in the prototype should be able to power a Mk5 Plastruder without any problems, and do it silently ;). They support PWM heating code as well, for better temperature management. All the outputs are protected with flyback diodes, so they can drive inductive loads as well (motors, other relays, etc).

Using this board to power the Plastruder/HBP reduces the current going through the mosfets on the Extruder Controller down to ~10ma per mosfet. Your EC mosfets should not heat up or burn out. If you do happen to burn out a mosfet on this board, it is a lot easier to fix/replace than the ones on the Extruder Controller.

It also reduces the current going through the Cat5 cable going into the EC, which could help reduce communication errors that can occur.

I've only tested this with my Mk4 Plastruder and HBP, but the current capability should be there to support a Mk5 (IRF520 = 10A). Since it is not part of the extruder controller, it is much easier to add other cooling solutions (i.e. fans), or even use other types of mosfets. I mounted large TO-220 heatsinks to the IRF520's to help keep them cool.

This is the first 'big' circuit I've designed, so there might be errors in the schematic. If there are errors, or if anyone know of ways to improve the design, please leave a comment.

Future plans/ideas:
1. Try using higher pull-up resistors (100K instead of 1.2K)
2. Add a master/emergency cutoff switch
3. Design/order/test an actual PCB

An Arduino Shield with a Single 16-Channel CMOS multiplexer (DG406DJ) and custom output pin.
Single-sided pcb milled with Geil-o-mat using metaboard.sh script to convert .brd files to .ngc ready for CNC milling.

Used for Arduino Power Monitoring Impulses Purposes, 128inputs multiplexed to 8inputs over Arduino - ATMEGA328.
Actually running and monitoring ~100 active server racks with XML output on arduino ethernet shield

This is a base for a bicycle light

I had been using a variant on the original mendel hot end ( thingiverse.com/thing:2018 ) and was constantly getting heat transfer up to my (sadly) PLA printed extruder parts. These parts were actually deforming a little under the heat. So I redesigned to fit my needs.

This is a new hotend design borrowing from from makerbot's MK5 extruder (see thingiverse.com/thing:3290 ).

It has a nicrome wrapper cylindrical solid aluminum core and fits into a PTFE sleeve at the top which allows it to be used with the original mendel X carriage. Additionally it can be used with the MOSFETs on the mendel extruder controller board and doesn't require large clicky relays. ;)

It makes use of the MK5 nozzle and thermal barrier tube that you can get easily from Makerbot Industries storefront.

A drop-in replacement for the MakerBot stepper drivers that contains all three axes on one board.

You can order these from my web site: tinkerin.gs/p/psmd-pololu-stepper-motor-driver-triple.html
Now you can also order these from Seeed Studio!: seeedstudio.com/depot/psmd-triple-axis-driver-p-1029.html

Updated: Now smaller (same height as a Gen4 stepper driver and 1/4" wider for 3X the axes), and with dip switches to configure microstepping. Also now has a motor-power-in (or 12V out) screw terminal that can be used to drive the motors on up to 35V. I need to update the files an description.

See it in action here (with an early prototype): youtube.com/watch?v=8TEvwzTABEI&hd=1
And it's not mentioned or shown, but you can see it in action in this video: youtube.com/watch?v=2iGnlqBLn5s&hd=1

This board makes your steppers run at eight times higher resolution (1/16th steps instead of 1/2 steps), making it run smoother and way quieter.

I based the design on the MakerBot Stepper Driver v3.0 ( thingiverse.com/thing:760 ) but with a few notable exceptions:

•) I used the Pololu A4983 ( j.mp/pololu-smd ) stepper motor driver carrier board for each axis, so three of them are required for all three axes to work.
•) Circuitry that is already on the Pololu board has been removed.
•) The CD-ROM-style connectors from the Gen4 electronics are used. I used a horizontal-mount connector instead of a vertical mount for mostly cosmetic reasons on the Cupcake, and that may have to be changed for the Thing-o-magic or a RepRap. I'll have to modify the layout to support vertical connectors if they are needed.
•) This board is etchable and hand-solderable. This means that, with the exception of the thru-hole capacitor leads, none of the lead holes are used as vias. Also, traces are reasonably far apart, all of the wiring of the thru-hole parts (except the caps) is on the back, and vias (and drilling) are avoided as much as possible. I have provided the PDF I used for toner transfer.

I placed the Pololu boards vertically and with nothing under them to provide a natural flow of hot air past them. This is why the capacitors are mounted on the back. If they still show signs of overheating, there are holes at the bottom to mount a 12v CPU fan to blow air up past them and provide cooling. So far, in my testing, the steppers overheat before the drivers.

More info about the RepRap testing with Pololu drivers (and my inspiration) here: reprap.org/wiki/Pololu_Electronics

Update 1: Oops, I forgot to post my machines.xml. Now it's up.
Update 2: I added a photo of this latest revision with the endstop connectors corrected and soldered in place. I'm working on the mechanical endstops as another thing. All of the other photos are of the previos revision of this board.
Update 3: I updated the eagle files with some minor cosmetic changes, mostly to clean up the silk screen. I didn't change the version because it's all cosmetic.
Update 4: I have partial build instructions up on Flickr. flickr.com/photos/giseburt/sets/72157625473951054/
Update 5: I have updated the design a little, and bumped the version number to 0.5. (I've left the 0.2 files here.) It now has 6-pin connectors that should be compatible with the Gen4 electronics. It also has a 12V in/out screw terminal, and I've added more silk-screen to help identify parts and pins. The down side is that the -pin connectors made the traces really tight, and it will be more difficult to solder a home-etched version, since some traces to the 6-pin headers are on the top side.

I'm sorry, I'm currently out of kits. I am in the process of having some professionally made, but I don't currently have an ETA. The good news is that they will be completely assembled, and the only soldering needed will be of the Pololu drivers.

Addition of lights to my stage.

For my wedding in October 2011 I asked my fiance if I could build something, she only asked that it not be tacky. This is what I came up with. It's a modular folding photo booth. I designed the model in Sketchup, programmed it in Autoit, and gave it a nice Glados voice. I needed an input device and I decided to make a serial comm button. I took a 555 timer and made it generate a 4.8kHz square wave. At 9600 baud this translates to UUUUUUUU plus one garbage character when the button is released. for now it only uses a Webcam to take photos but hopefully I will be find a deal on a canon power shot sometime in the next months to upgrade it. Since the printouts are resized, the small webcam resolution isn't noticable, however it won't be suitable if i wanted to incorporate the singles frames into a album. I'm working on some upgrades using the twitter api so I can have the booth update me whenever it is taking photos. This way I can tell it's status and share photos easier.


Here is a video of it's assembly and the software.

youtube.com/watch?v=jNGg821bC7c

I built this CNC router from designs I saw all ver the place and like the idea of using aluminium channel and steel. I simply built the table then measured the gantry to suit. You can build any size this way as long as you re-enforce properly. The control board came from HobbyCNC and the motors are NEMA 23. The power supply I built (simple 24v 7A).

This is a derivative of Tinkering's thingiverse.com/thing:4526 with the endstop interface and the LED's removed (for now) using the robotshop.com/pololu-8v-35v-2a-single-bipolar-stepper-motor-driver-w-regulators.html . This board is designed to be easy to etch at home using the laser printer method so it can be made at home. I decided to make this guy because i fried one of my motor controllers by accident and the replacements have a 3 week lead time. Everything needed to make this can be picked up from radio shack in exception to some of the connectors.

If you want micro-stepping (1/16), and want to learn how to make your own PCB, this thing is for you.

* Will be finishing write up soon!

Bold Note: I have not assembled or built one of these and only used the original PSMD board as reference to try and make things fit. The capacitor and jumper switches under the Polulu may or may not fit. Also, i changed the connector for the stepper to a standard 0.1" header.

This is simply a manipulation of the PSMD Triple Axis Driver by 'tinkerings'.
The idea is that it replaces the need for 5 stepper boards using the Gen 4 Makerbot electronics and replaces it with only one board. (Not counting the 5 pololu boards).


The first step for me was to recreate the previous version with an additional 2 stepper drivers. Next step is to make the connector a 30-pin ribbon so i can create custom boards for various controllers. :P

Note: Some Pololu drivers can operate at 3.3V and 5V...just saying. :) The end stop connectors on A and B is for experimental purposes. I know it consumes unnecessary pinnage, but you never know what it may be used for...encoder? :)

UPDATE #1: Thanks for the tips Protonite! I've added some changes that some people may like, and some may find it really annoying. :) I changed the 10 pin connector to a 6 pin connector, like on the Makerbot boards. I've axed the Max Endstop for good measure. The Makerbot motherboard has 2 pins unused. I added VCC and Minumum Endstop signal to these pins. It should not affect the Makerbot Motherboards compatibility. Ive added both the PC Power Supply plug, and a screw terminal connection. There is also a switch added so you can turn off the Voltage to the motors without powering down the supply completely. Useful for servicing the stepper boards. I appreciate the input advice! I think the new layout looks pretty sick, and i cant wait to get a working version made. :)

Compatibility:
Makerbot Motherboard; Stepper Motors require standard 0.1" header

Version 1.1 of the NBitWonder DC Motor Driver. This project is a simple dual-channel DC motor for robotics and other hobbyist projects. The project uses hand-solderable parts (no under-chip pads), and fits completely on a single-sided PCB, making it easy to print or fabricate using homebrew PCB methods. The board is designed to be cheap, with parts costing ~$10 in quantity 1 (without volume discounts).

The project was originally designed as drive electronics to be used in conjunction with Marc Raiser's Tank project: thingiverse.com/thing:6554 (Tank v2 thingiverse.com/thing:8080 is explicitly modified for use with this board). Design files are posted here, but for the most up-to-date documentation and technical data, refer to the project's github repository, which can be found here: github.com/NBitWonder/DCMotorController

The project is the result of hard work by members of the NBitWonder community. For more about us, and some of our other projects, check us out here: nbitwonder.com

A small PCB that breaks out SSOP-08 packages to a standard 0.1" pin spacing. This allows you to use these SMD devices with bread boards and strip boards. I created this board so that I could use a PCA9306 I2C level shifter in a prototype, but it'll work with any SSOP-08 device.

This thing drives 4 stepper motors synchronously.
I designed it for the BigRep thingiverse.com/thing:8609 which has 4 Stepper motors for the Z-axis.

One Step, Dir and Enable signal gets split up and serves 4 Polou A4983 stepper carrier boards.

As the stepper motors i use (180Ncm) pull 2A per coil, each driver has its own 12V line and connector. Mounting holes (50x50mm) for a fan are provided also.