Turn your Prusa Mendel World upside down!

And increase your Z-axis build space by 40% !!!

I've been printing this way for over a month now.

The stl and scad files below are for the 126mm tube that is printed in the picture.

Here's a YouTube video of the last part of the print:
m.youtube.com/watch?v=O6T0TAdobz4

A bicycle mount for the iPhone 5. To be used without a case. Mounts on most sizes of round bars both horizontal and vertical using the OpenSCAD file. A 4/4s version could be made with very slight modifications.

Edit: I added an OpenSCAD file for generating a clamp for a wide array of bar sizes as well as a horizontal option. (My first OpenSCAD file. Looks like it works well enough.)

Visit blog.rwillbrown.com/?p=183 for design insight and more information!

printed screw and nut, it's real works ...

This is a ducted of double way correct for fan 50mm. and hotend J-Head MK-V for printers Mendel Prusa version 2. The air is driven efficiently to the piece and directly to the heat sink of hotend J-Head MK-V keeping the nozzle hot. You will need bolts and nuts metric of 4mm. Two versions available, with and without mount plate and original 3D file for SketchUp too. You have that to remember this piece only fit over a X carriage, with three linear bearings LMM8U type like this iearobotics.com/wiki/images/1/1e/DSC05555.JPG

To avoid collision with the four bulldogs paper clips, I recommend using kapton tape around the perimeter of the glass to attach it to the hot bed. The print dimensions are greater now.

UPDATE:

Now, there are three new STL files available. You can glue them to get the complete shape named "Double_ducted_for_fan_with_mount_plate.stl"

Use this option to combine three easy printings, where the support material isn't essential and get a functional object, though, for best results, it is still highly recommended to use.

The objects are named: Element_A.stl, Element_B.stl and Element_C.stl

This hand pump is located at the Wilson Montessori school Wonderground SPARK park in Houston wilsonspark.org/ It gives the kids a safe way to get water to play with, and demonstrates James Watt's straight line linkage.

3D printed optical mount system for use with extruded aluminum angle from the local home store

This is a new kind of cooling system for hot-ends, based on a little air pump.

The ring is designed for a ORD Bot Hadron, but can be adapted for other 3D printers.

this is version one of my beatjazz gestural control interface. it is a 3 way wirelessly networked control interface for creating and manipulating sound. there is a headset, and two hand units, all adjustable.

the beatjazz control interface is not an "instrument" as much as it is an idea of personal interfacing. i created this as my interface to computers to express myself in a different way, owing to the neccesity to program everything myself. my personal version has not remained design stable since its first functional iteration. it is evolving along with the software and the biokinetic paradigm.

in this version, the headset has a pressure sensor that registers breath pressure and uses it to instantiate notes, and functions. it also has a lip sensor made from a force sensing resistor that allows for lip control in a manner similar to a sax player but with massively more potential for expression.

the hand units are exactly the same except that they are mirrored (i designed the left hand and inverted the design before printing.) there are four fsr mounting points on the keypad area for force sensing resistors. underneath the forefinger and the thumb on each hand, there are 5 way toggle switches that i use for mode selection (volume control, looper rec/dub, sustain and primary loop record) and the lower one is for octave selection. on the right hand the upper joytoggle is for transposition modes and for some upcoming concepts i am playing with ;-) while the lower joytoggle is for pre and post fx, muting and feedback.

an accelerometer on each hand determines x-y coordinate based on the plane positioning of the keypad of each hand. with the keypad level with the ground, x axis is left/right tilt and y axis is forward backward tilt, both from the wrist. these motions are used to control a grid of gestural parameters. the synths that i use are purpose built for this method of control, which i call gestural trajectory synthesis. (i will be uploading the patches very ooon.)

This is a proof of concept of a strong rotation module, which can be used in various robotic systems.

An example is given as png image. This is a new yaw rotation for the IMU tracker a friend is building:

logre.eu/wiki/Stabilisateur_Tracker_GPS_%C3%A0_IMU

This device is a small saw table for tubes, slotting, ring making eta.

This bracket replaces the somewhat flimsy stock piece for the Solidoodle 2. My factory brackets were both cracked and due to the lack of stability, it was causing poor accuracy/repeatability in the y-axis.

The overkill bracket is an even beefier piece. Both work. I've got one of each installed right now.

This is a Thing I have Built a Prusa Mendel with 1.8 Steppers and a RAMPS 1.4 SHield for an Arduino Mega.

Here is my slingshot gun project. It's about 95% done. I still have to design a trigger mechanism to actually fire the thing. Also, I still have not thought up a good method for holding the projectile.

This mount allows to mount a small 50x50 mm fan on one of the threaded rods (8mm) of RepRap-like 3D printers.

You can adjust fan position and orientation.

Also the models are parametric, so you can edit scad file to get exactly what you need.

I have two fans - one mounted on frame, and one on mounted on carriage (using this mount - thingiverse.com/thing:19076). I'm turning on fan mounted on frame manually for models with heavy overhangs or bridges, or when I need to cool form the other side.

After Tohoku Japan Earthquake(March 11th, 2011), Japanese people need alternative energy sources to nuclear power plants.
Micro hydropower generation is an answer, and we've designed it.
We changed our license to Creative Commons - Attribution License.
We hope YOU to improve our design.
Thanks!
More information: capsellab.com/

Pen holder designed to be mounted in one of the spare extruder mounts on the RepRapPro Mendel.

Can be used to hold a pen for general purpose plotting or in my case PCB plotting.

A very functional, useful, cheap and customisable 3D printer spool holder!

Started out as an Aluminum Mendel and morphed into a bit of this and a bit of that. Mostly a learning exercise. An engineer printed the extruder for me in his commercial 3d printer. Made the Budaschnozzle with some modifications. I had a box of semi-circular half inch Thomson rod bearings given to me that necessitated using half inch rod. The bearings are very sensitive to clamping pressure and I would not use them again if I were starting anew. I used 80/20 stuff for most of the structure since I had a lot of scrap to choose from. No idea if any of this will work yet. I have Ramps 1.4 electronics to hook up to experiment with. That will be another learning exercise since this is my first build!

--- Japanese -------------------------------------------------

blugareroのデザインが私の場合は上手くプリント出来なかったので作りました。
サポートなしにプリントできます。
彼のデザインがプリントできるならば不要です。

blugarero's mount
thingiverse.com/thing:15412

blugareroに感謝します。

新たに作ったこちらをおすすめします。
thingiverse.com/thing:31590

* 英訳がおかしかったら是非ご教示下さい。


--- English -------------------------------------------------

I made because I could not print well in my case is blugarero's design.
You can print without support print.
Is not necessary if you can print his designs.

blugarero's mount
thingiverse.com/thing:15412

Thanks for blugarero.

I recommend this newly made​​.
thingiverse.com/thing:31590

I got sick of my Huxley's Z couplings working loose, so decided to design one that didn't make use of rubber hoses. This version should stay on without any major problems, although there's no provision made for Z-wobble, so make sure that your frame is totally straight and aligned, otherwise Bad Things can happen.

Extruder for printing with ceramic. Still in development, but we already produced nice results. See pictures for results. Added new photos and info.

Scalable universal stand for anything on a reel. I use this to dispense PLA to my 3d printer but it could be used for anything on a reel. The reels I am using are recycled electrical cable reels and are 280mm diameter with a 98mm hole, these are very common in these parts and freely available. The whole construction is very much like the mendel prusa frame so is made from 8mm threaded rod, nuts and washers.
All the parts print in around an hour each and it is a good project to tidy up your print area and use up some scraps of filament.
This is the third version of this device.

Useful add-on to guide your filament into the extruder from either a reel or even works with a roll on the floor. Clamps to the top two rails and assemble much like the Mendel Prusa with 8mm threaded rods, washers and nuts. The top guide spool spins freely and slides along the rail to suit the printer head.
I use this with a triangular frame reel stand behind the printer with three reels of PLA on it and it feeds really well from full or emptry drums.
In the photos attached you can see I am feeding PLA from a pile on the floor below the printer.

A stand for Cubic Print's excellent filament spool ( thingiverse.com/thing:12744 ).

I used byteborg's remix ( thingiverse.com/thing:16340 ) of the center to save some time but it doesn't matter either way.

You'll need to print the parts from the above Thingiverse listings along with the part on this listing and some get some extra hardware to complete this project. See instructions below for what you need to do.

I use one of these in both of my showers to conserver water. I included a 0.5/0.75/1/1.5/2/2.5mm orifice water saver disc as different people have different wants and water pressure (mine is very high and I use the 0.75mm size where I get ~0.8gpm out of a 2.5gpm shower head. The 2mm is about 1.5gpm and the 2.5mm is ~2-2.25gpm all at full force so you can turn down the faucets to lower it even more).

One of the shortcomings of the Prusa Mendel design is that, while the mechanical print mechanism is brilliant, it doesn't really have any provision for the associated electronics. I have seen Mendels where the driver boards are just flopping around on the table next to the printer; I've also seen clamps and other things to affix the RAMPS and Arduino boards in hard-to-see positions on the side of the frame, etc. None of this is too satisfactory.

I wanted something that worked better, so I augmented the normal frame vertex part for the printer with a rearward-facing projection that can be used as a shelf support. This lets you put a wooden (e.g.) shelf up high and to the rear of the printer, and attach your electronics to that as needed. This arrangement makes the entire printer into a solid one-piece unit that can be lifted and moved without problems, and also puts the electronics up high where you can see them easily and make intricate connections without hurting yourself. It's also a nice "centralized" location, so the wire runs from the motors, switches, and heaters are short.

Since I built my Prusa Mendel, I've been looking for ways to get more light on the bed during printing. I finally hit upon this excellent solution.

The idea is to install an extra frame vertex on one (or both) ends of the printer top bar; the vertex is enhanced to include a tab that supports one of these great gooseneck lights sold by Ikea.

ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20169658/

(Strangely, you can’t actually *buy* them on the Ikea web site, but you can buy them other places, e.g., here: amazon.com/IKEA-JANSJO-Desk-Work-Light/dp/B0055IW5UA) Get two lights and put a mount on each end of the printer for even more light and less shadows.

The long gooseneck lets you put light wherever you want it, and it's bright enough to let you see how the print is progressing without being blinding or totally obnoxious.

You can run the light directly from your house power using the power adaptor that comes with it; I put together a simple 500mA constant current source so I could power the light from the printer's 12V supply (so everything turns on and off at once).

Note that you can use the frame vertex that holds the lamp as part of this Prusa Mendel Filament Spool Holder to get a two-fer: thingiverse.com/thing:14999

I.Q.B. (I-cube)
The ultimate toddler toy!

After shopping around for toys for our son, I was quite disappointed with the price/longevity/challenge of most toys.
There is some cool stuff out there, but most are utterly simplistic and quickly boring and way too expensive.
So I set out to create the coolest toddler toy ever ;-)

The basic idea is to create a fancy looking enclosure, add lots of buttons, dials, some LED's, a mic and speaker. Hook them up to a micro-controller and voila a reprogrammable toy.

I have been working on multiple aspects at the same time, but I thought it time to start sharing the first part:
The enclosure, a cube made from printed parts and Plexiglas.
While this is not the cheapest option, it will be quite modular during construction and finalizing.
And I expect the end-result to be quite sturdy and up to toddler abuse.
For me this also an excercise of working with Plexiglas again and I was ordering some anyway ;-)

I'll update the project as I move along.
Follow instructions at your own risk!
As always, if you don't know what you are doing, don't do it!

The macroline fittings on the stock replicator extruder bracket began to weaken and flex. (see picture of my stock part.) This caused an annoying creaking noise, and also weakened the filament within the macroline feed tube. This eventually caused the filament to mis-feed and even fracture.

So, I took the .stl file from the replicator build files and shrunk the holes down to accept paintball style macroline fittings. These fittings are much beefier and thread in through the full thickness of the extruder bracket. This should create a stronger and more durable connection that will last.

I also had to move the holes about 1/10 inch back from the front of the machine to center the holes over the extruder entry holes. The stock macroline connectors have a much looser tolerance so they can stand to be slightly off center. Whereas my macroline fittings need to be better centered to work.

Added benefit? You can choose any color you like to print this in! :)

Adjustment to "Yet another dispenser for filament spools" by "Think_3D" to attach it to my PRotos

Makes it easy to quickly change filament color.