Everyone has seen Raspberry Pi Computer, the credit card sized mini PC circuit board that cost only $35. Now there is a new Mobile Raspberry Pi called Pi-to-Go. Mini LCD, 10 hour battery, and 64GB SSD hard drive. You can 3D print your own case and build your own. Complete instruction on how to build this Pi-to-go computer can be found here: blog.parts-people.com/2012/12/20/mobile-raspberry-pi-computer-build-your-own-portable-rpi-to-go/
Video of it in action
youtube.com/watch?v=E89s2h9swIc

As I wanted to do timelapses with my Canon Ixus 220 HS (also known as Powershot ELPH 300 HS) using the great CHDK, I realized that the standard battery only lasts for 2.5 hours.

While searching the internet, I found that there is an existing solution by Canon with the major downside that it costs about 90€.

So I fired up openscad and came up with this battery dummy for the NB-4L battery. Using a female servo connector and some desoldering wick for the contacts, you are able to power your camera with an external power supply.

I supply a voltage of 4.0V which is generated using a cheap LM2596S step-down converter (search LM2596S on ebay). You could use a LM317 linear regulator or anything else that generates the required voltage and up to 2A.

You can easily adapt this thing to your own needs using the openscad file.

The Rev C MakerBot Safety Cutoff Switch operation depends on the E-stop cable to function. If the cable is unplugged or fails then the safety cutoff is unable to interrupt the power to the heater element. This modification allows the Safety Cutoff Switch to operate without the E-stop cable, ensuring that the heater will be shut off if required.

This mod also adds a snubber diode to the relay coil to reduce power surges when the relay shuts off.

NOTE: These instructions are ONLY applicable to the Rev C Safety Cutoff Switch.

A small PCB that breaks out SSOP-08 packages to a standard 0.1" pin spacing. This allows you to use these SMD devices with bread boards and strip boards. I created this board so that I could use a PCA9306 I2C level shifter in a prototype, but it'll work with any SSOP-08 device.

Version 1.1 of the NBitWonder DC Motor Driver. This project is a simple dual-channel DC motor for robotics and other hobbyist projects. The project uses hand-solderable parts (no under-chip pads), and fits completely on a single-sided PCB, making it easy to print or fabricate using homebrew PCB methods. The board is designed to be cheap, with parts costing ~$10 in quantity 1 (without volume discounts).

The project was originally designed as drive electronics to be used in conjunction with Marc Raiser's Tank project: thingiverse.com/thing:6554 (Tank v2 thingiverse.com/thing:8080 is explicitly modified for use with this board). Design files are posted here, but for the most up-to-date documentation and technical data, refer to the project's github repository, which can be found here: github.com/NBitWonder/DCMotorController

The project is the result of hard work by members of the NBitWonder community. For more about us, and some of our other projects, check us out here: nbitwonder.com

This is a derivative of Tinkering's thingiverse.com/thing:4526 with the endstop interface and the LED's removed (for now) using the robotshop.com/pololu-8v-35v-2a-single-bipolar-stepper-motor-driver-w-regulators.html . This board is designed to be easy to etch at home using the laser printer method so it can be made at home. I decided to make this guy because i fried one of my motor controllers by accident and the replacements have a 3 week lead time. Everything needed to make this can be picked up from radio shack in exception to some of the connectors.

If you want micro-stepping (1/16), and want to learn how to make your own PCB, this thing is for you.

* Will be finishing write up soon!

For my wedding in October 2011 I asked my fiance if I could build something, she only asked that it not be tacky. This is what I came up with. It's a modular folding photo booth. I designed the model in Sketchup, programmed it in Autoit, and gave it a nice Glados voice. I needed an input device and I decided to make a serial comm button. I took a 555 timer and made it generate a 4.8kHz square wave. At 9600 baud this translates to UUUUUUUU plus one garbage character when the button is released. for now it only uses a Webcam to take photos but hopefully I will be find a deal on a canon power shot sometime in the next months to upgrade it. Since the printouts are resized, the small webcam resolution isn't noticable, however it won't be suitable if i wanted to incorporate the singles frames into a album. I'm working on some upgrades using the twitter api so I can have the booth update me whenever it is taking photos. This way I can tell it's status and share photos easier.


Here is a video of it's assembly and the software.

youtube.com/watch?v=jNGg821bC7c

First of all: All merits and credits and rights and everything else (including ownership of the files) goes to original authors - and reprap community.

Second of all: Versions here are the original files, only tweaked for toner transfer purposes.

These are some files for DIY pcbs with Toner Transfer, for Mendel.
Images for printing top bottom and silk are all 600 dpi.

More info on reprap.org/wiki/DIY_PCBs_double_sided_toner_transfer

* image file for ATX / ATX2 voltages takeout + UM232R footprint boards:
A4 file ready for transfer, 600 dpi. For ATX supply, the board allows access to all voltages without any modifications to the supply. The UM232R i made because it looks better on a proper board.

* stepper motor driver v3.0 for toner transfer +A4 layout: i never got time around to test this because i jumped to vers 3.3, but should work; nonetheless, use at your own risk

* stepper motor driver v3.3 for toner transfer: changed smd from 0805 to 1206; increased pcb size and spacings accordingly; some provisions(”just in case”): 7805 can be fitted with a small to radiator (totally not needed but i like the overkill) and can be moved around abit if needed; smd versions electrolitic capacitors could be fitted (for smd connect the vias nearby with bottom layer); alternative jumpers instead of the dip switch; alternative 0.100” pins connectors for motor; 2 opposite diagonal holes for an A3977 radiator (overkill heatsink higly recommended), and some holes underneath A3977 that are just something like chip vent; can use pots with pitch of 5/5mm also (besides 5/2.5mm);
-the version named Makerbot: has 6 pins idc and no min/max, as it was in the original file;
-the version named Mendel: has 10 pins idc and .100 min/max of 3 pins each for compatibility with current mendel Gen3 Electronics and specifically Mb v1.2
I dont think i was inspired in getting the right versions names, but i am always lacking inspiration :))

* MB 1.2v: A4 file with tqfp pads edited, ready for transfer, 600 dpi: orientation of the board on the file would of been better horizontal, but then wouldnt fit one near the other. Check photo paper shrinkage (on vertical direction) with a real piece of .100 pins along their pads. Use good quality board materials for this one. RepRap modifications included (no longer compatible with other makerbot version): as per reprap.org/wiki/PCB_adaptions_for_Mendel the bridge near icsp header area, bridge(s) in atx connector area (leading to two traces in bottom layer to be combined on the top area of sd card - looks weird but its ok).

* added EC 2.2v: A4 file with tqfp pads edited, ready for transfer, 600 dpi. I did my own EC22 with a version that was almost at the size and spacings of the original file, and after doing it like that i decided it needs further spacing out and more severe cleaning up which i did in the file. As a result the images linked and the file are slightly different, and the last version should be better. However be warned, i did not tried this last version in real life myself, although i think it should work: use at your own risk, etc.

deriv of: thingiverse.com/thing:4399 but tinier!

I really wanted a fully integrated solution for controlling a heated build platform, as well as for communicating with the motherboard. I also wanted to be able to use the heated build platform as a controlled hot plate in order to do surface mount reflow. I created this board to have the ability to do both. I started this several months ago, but just now was able to gather all of the parts to build it and test it.

The board is meant to control mains voltage (i.e. 120/240 VAC), and therefore uses an optically-isolated triac that is protected by a fuse. Temperature feedback is through a Type-K thermocouple being read by a MAX6675. The whole system is controlled by an ATMega328 based Arduino in a TQFP package. Feedback to the user is through a 16x2 LCD and 3 buttons. The control circuitry is powered though the 5V line on a Molex connector off of an ATX power supply.

Features:
*Controls up to 1000W of AC mains power
* I2C Communications back to the motherboard
*Measurable temperature range of 0 to 1024 degrees C with 2 degree accuracy
*16x2 character LCD screen
*Up, Down, and Select buttons
*Programmed with USB-TTL cable or ISCP programmer
*Arduino-based for easy coding and compatibility with other boards
*AC Power is optically isolated and fused
*Breakout of extra I/O pin

So far, I’ve been able to test the temperature sensor, the LCD, the buttons, and programming, but I have not been able to test the AC power yet. I should be testing that soon, but right now, use at your own risk.

The ZIP file contains the EAGLE files, Gerber production files, pictures of the board, and a Microsoft Excel file containing all of the parts, suppliers, costs, and board designators.

I am considering selling this board as a kit if I get enough interest, so please tell me what you think!

UPDATE: I have been using this design for several months now, and it seems to work fine. In the mean time, this design has won me the PLTW Innova Award for Imagination! pltw.org/innovaawards

This is a single-sided version of the makerbot stepper driver board v2.3
thingiverse.com/thing:393

I tweaked the board to make it easier to etch and make at home. The vias are not underneath components, simple wire links can replace the tracks on one side of the board, and the track sizes tweaked a bit.
It can still be improved.

This RC hovercraft is the result a project at my university
It has a top speed of 60Km/h and a perfect handling.
2 parts where 3D print, 1 was made by thermoforming and one by laser cutter.
It’s a very good project to learn to design for all toes prototyping techniques.

If you want more information, don’t hesitate to contact me…

The human powered internet cafe looks at the issues of renewable power generation and aims to educate users to the energy requirements of surfing the internet.

Users are asked to peddle the exercise bikes in order to turn a dynamo which would in turn power the computers. If users fail to peddle hard enough the computer monitors will begin to flicker encouraging them to peddle harder.

The thing would ideally be placed in public areas where all forms of society could view it and try it out for them selves, thus educating as many people as possible.

This is a PCB design for 6 leds which can be attached to the extruder nozel head via the 2 threaded bolts. This is a derivative of the printable Makerbot light ring.

The circuit is a simple one, however there is an added function.

This is designed to be wired into the extruder motor connectors 1A and 1B, therfore when the motor runs forward, it lights 3 LEDs (White) When it reverses, it illumiates the Blue LED's.

Check out my video for an example here: youtube.com/watch?v=lRiLqAD1rlk

and in actual use (Pinting PrintruderV2) youtube.com/watch?v=VoPX63fTHiw

Alternativly, use this pcb and add the LED's all the right way wound and have this as a circuit just to illuminate! its like potatoe waffles - lovely and versatile!

I was in the need for a way to bread board a SMD TQFP 32 pin atmega168 for a project I am working on. I decided to look around for one. I found a great deal on digikey for $25 dollars.

search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=336-1505-ND

I thought that this had male headers on the bottom of the board. However it did not. It had a funky hirose connector.
See: blog.synthetos.com/arduino-boot-loader-party/

So I decided to make my own. I created the eagle footprint via a digital caliper. Which was difficult. I laserd the board and the 1/8th" masonite (hardboard).
You can see all images at my flickr stream. While you are there at me as a friend :)
flickr.com/photos/31697990@N00/sets/72157623219100172/

So in case someone wants a cheap TQFP holder. Here are the files.